My next victim in the shop. made in France. 2004 D6N Serial number CAT00D6NVALH 00361 In for new undercarriage, all new Hydraulic lines, complete service of all fluids and filters, make the A/C work etc, etc. The owner bought from the internet sight unseen with a rust oleum overhaul. C-6 Acert. The hydraulic lines are a real mess, the lift cylinders leak, one track adjuster leaks and the hits just keep coming. Anything I need to watch for on this machine ? Will CAT know what each hydraulic line is built to or do I drag each one to the dealer to match up ?
If there's a part number for the hose, the hose guy at the dealer can pull up the info and build it.
Hoses won't be a problem at the dealer, they all have part numbers if you want to spend the time looking them up. That line to the angle cylinder is supposed to go around the vertical brace on the c frame with a clamp going to the threaded boss on the back, then between the pin and the frame like the other one. Those are good machines, we have one with over 16000 hours on it and the only major work it has needed so far is an undercarriage and just put in a new motor. $23,000 for a Cat exchange motor, I didn't think that was that bad.
They should have info to build any hose by Part Number taken from SIS using the machine Serial Number. Most will probably be missing by now but in less exposed areas of the machine where hoses might well still be original take a close look for an aluminium tag wrapped round the hose at one end or the other. It will have the hose Part Number stamped on it. All bets are off if the machine was ever modified in any way by previous owner(s). Attached are the lines in your 3rd photo. I wonder where the guards on the RH cylinder went...?
I wondered why that line was so long. Thank you. I curled like that to keep it off the ground. This one has 12,000 and feels like its almost all original. Not a drop off antisieze anywhere !
Thanks and hello again Mr. Nigel. The left cover was smooshed and the right cover is missing completely. On my shopping list as I inspect and disassemble I may need some SIS assistance with this one, no books at all, just flying solo. .
Every D6N I’ve ever worked on has been pretty metric lol
Talk the owner into investing in a Parts Manual maybe.? Cat reference is SEBP3246, downloadable from them for $124 or maybe available on eBay for less. Better still, look on scribd.com, there is a free downloadable copy there if you sign up for the 30-day free trial. https://www.scribd.com/document/564164919/SEBP3246-49-01-ALL
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3922598409...0W8T9Q1FMRaL6OEb1YdPn85Ljqks|tkp:BFBMmNOs7Ith This it ? All the others on the E Bay are SEBP3247-08
Or this looks earlier ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/3237619517...ju%2FyRuC37vsg%3D%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675
Either of those two above will work. If you go to buy any Part Number from a book that's been updated since the book was printed the dealer's system should automatically spit out the new number.
Thanks Nige. I do notice different engines listed on the covers of these manuals. 3126, C-7...I think this machine has a C-6 Acert ?
Before proceeding further check the installed engine S/N just to make sure it hasn't been replaced by something newer. The tractor was originally built with 3126B engine S/N BMA9436. Both those eBay links are correct. On the cover it lists tractor S/N ALH1-Up (from first built in other words) and engines from BMA1100-Up which will cover the engine in that tractor if it is the original BMA9436
I actually had to work today so no working on the dozer. I will check it tomorrow. BTW, while chipping Portland cement from around all the hyd. lines I did come across two of thos aluminum tags but they were so corroded it did me no good.
They are stamped from the back side to create raised letters/numbers on the front. Often if you carefully remove the tag and look at the back side of it the P/N will be revealed - so long as you can read backwards that is............
OK, so no engine serial number plate is jumping out at me. This whole machine looks pretty original. Two questions, is there a simple solution to getting this angle cylinder pin out ? It is worn, the cyl end is worn and it is rusty crusty. Are these bush fix shims for the front idlers or CAT supplied ?
Should be on top of the valve cover next to the plate with the Cat logo. Loadsa heat + FBH. If that fails, lance it out. My 2c. Not original. Maybe put there to try to compensate the height of worn idlers.
slide hammer adapter and a 20 lb slide hammer plus heat on the bosses
Dammit man, I have been standing on the floor next to this machine for too many hours, I never thought to climb up and look down ! Tomorrow I will. I was afraid this was going to be the case. I will heat it once or twice then air arc it, it looks sad. This machine spent some time on a soil stabilizing crew. Tomorrow I will knock those front idler saddles off and start over with no shims. Thanks gents.
So todays adventure included developing a tool to remove the stubborn angle cylinder pin, removing the last of the undercarriage components, finding out the equalizer bar ends are fubar, removing the last of the hydraulic lines. Next up, repair the cyl, order a crap ton of parts . (the complete undercarriage has been here for a month). Figure out how to remove a roller frame to facilitate the removal of the equalizer bar. remove and clean the belly pans. Then...maybe then I can start prepping everything for reassembly.
So the outer pins on the EQ bar were a little stubborn. My son borrowed a mini jack hammer(for lack of a better term) after we broke the handle on my 12 lb sledge and we were able to remove both with brute force, oil, grinders and some heat. Next up when I get time is the belly pans and the center pin. It looks like I can pivot one roller frame up enough to possible clear the EQ bar removal.
If you thought removing the E-Bar end pins was a challenge wait until you get to the centre one. It's probably never been out since the tractor was built and will be seized solid. Check your PMs.