I just bought a michigan 75a for a restoration project. It is for a restoration project. It has its fair share of issues/problems and I was wondering if anyone knew whare I could get parts for it or someone selling one for scrap. I will post my befor pictures tom if I learn how to lol
Volvo dealers should be able to get some parts. Also Google "Clark Michigan Parts" There are several sources for parts. I have service manual for 75A and can give some tech help.
We ran one for years and still have it so I might also be of some help.
Here are the issues I know it has as of right now! 1 the left rear brake line has a pin hole in it and when it sits all the fluid runs out. That's an easy fix I just need to make a new line.2 the 2 inch hose from the hyd tank to the pump seeps. That's easy drain the fluid and replace the rubber hose.3 the lever for working range and travel range is broke off. Easy fix just weld a new one on or buy one from a salvage unit and I'm gonna buy one. 4 the lever for forward and reverse is in the wrong location on the tranny because when the lever is in neutral the tranny is in forward. When it is in reverse the tranny is in neutral. Easy fix just has to be moved on the tranny. I only found that out when I kept trying to crank the motor with no luck. After I fixed that problem the motor turned over fine just did not start. Also I burned up the starter trying to start the motor in forward so I'm waiting to get a new one. The parts I'm looking for are! 1 both panels beside the motor. 2 the right panel just below the seat. 3 the lever for working range and travel range. 4 a complete dash with all gages and ignition switch as mine is missing gages and does not have right switch. 5 the front lights with brezels and pigtails if I can get them from someone. 6 one of the bars on the frount of the fuel tank because one of mine is missing. 7 the seat and the mounting plate because I have nothing above the battery its all gone. 8 the intake complete to the carb with the mounts and bolts that go on the hyd tank because mine is all missing. 9 the complete linkage from carb to gas pedal because mine is just riged and not right. 10 the complete linkage for the choke, everything up to the carb because that is rigged also. 11 also all my glass is broke frount rear and the small peice on the roof I would like to replace them also. So far that's where I'm at and what I am trying to locate and buy. If you have any parts that I listed and want to sell them let me know. If you can help with any of the issues please tell me anything you think might be useful as i would be thankful for the help!
I can't help you with parts as ours was still complete and working when parked and and I'm not quite ready to start parting it out. The headlights and tail lights were made by Guide I think and were probably used on other things. I think Guide was a division of GM. The gauges were also not Michigan specific but I don't remember who made them. The dash is just a flat sheet and could be made. Same for the side panel below the seat. The engine covers will be the toughest to find as many were discarded or run over when someone forgot to put them back after checking oil. The bar you mention has me confused. Do you mean the bar in front of the radiator or is your front sheet metal missing? At this point pictures would help. The original seat bottom was just a piece of plywood with foam and cover stapled to it that sat on the angle iron above the batteries. The back was the same but attached to brackets. I don't have the original seat but I can post pictures of some of the other stuff if you need it in your search. Ours is a diesel so stuff around the engine might be different.
The bar I am talking about is mounted on the frount of the gas tank. It kinda looks like a rubber stop. As far as the seat mine has 4 inch peices of wood holding the seat on. I know that is not right that's all. Could you take a pic of your seat and how it is mounted?
OK, I forgot about the bumper bars on the front. I no longer have the original seat. We use to move snow with it for very long hours and the seat was painful. I put a suspension seat from a delivery van in ours. The way I remember the original the seat back would stay in place while the bottom just lifted off for battery access, no fasteners on the bottom.
The bar, bumper peice is number 20 it looks like. Thanks for the pic. So I take it from what I can see that there would be a gap on both sides of the seat? So the batterys would still be exposed as mine is now?
i got parts hello, i have a transmission, transfer case, axels, tires and rims, ill sell for real cheap
Yea that's the bumper originally painted blue I think. As far as I know the batteries were open. The parts book doesn't have a picture of the battery box, just a parts listing but no cover. I made some wood covers after we had an exciting little incident with another machine. I've attached the page that corresponds to the picture I put up before, although I doubt the parts numbers will do you any good. I have the parts book and service manual digitized so if you need any pages I can send them. Unfortunately the files are too big to e-mail complete.
hello, i have a transmission, transfer case, axels, tires and rims, ill sell for real cheap
I tried to post the picture but it's not going. One more try.
What shape are the tires in? What would that cheap price be?
Thanks for the list. And I think I will cover them also for safty reasons.I have noticed that some have the hubs and rims painted blue but I do not like that color schem at all I will paint mine all orange. And thanks in advance for the help you will provide me in the future komatsu150 you have been a great help!
When I painted ours years ago I used a generic yellow for the machine but I did buy decals and the blue paint from Michigan. The wheels were supposed to be yellow and just the hubs blue and I think the bumpers. That blue paint was almost indestructible, must have been loaded with lead.
Well komatsu I talked to a guy that is local and he has two 75a's and I think I'm gonna buy them both. So I guess I'm gonna start my own fleet of 75s. If its alright with you I would like your help to get both of them up and running also. One has a blown motor and the other has drive line issues. Then again I might just fix two and have one for parts. I have not seen eather so I do not know the condition they are in.
hello The Tires Are In Good shape, Ill Sell You All Four For $200.
And The Rims
How much for everything you have?
It Depends On If You Pick It Up Or If I Deliver It To You
Sure, happy to help. I like to see the old iron saved. These machines were much unloved at the end of their careers and most were scrapped. An insurance company tried hard to total mine after it was rear ended by a car but I was able to force them to fix it.
What would it be if I picked it up
To be honest I like working on the old equipment because its far more simpler. Its also nice to be able to fix something without having to hook the computer to it. In a lot of ways older equipment is probabilly more reliable then the computer controlled machines of today.
$750 For Everything If You Come Pick It Up. What State Do You Live In? I Live In Michigan.
I live in pa near harrisburg.
If you Want It Delivered It Would Be $1,100
Hey komatsu I have a question for you. I will have my starter for Friday and will try to get mine running then. What I wanted to know is if you know what plug wire went where on my cap. It was just something I was thinking about. I know having them right would def help. I know I did not move any but I just want to make sure they were on right when I got it. Thanks
To find where your plug wires go, rotate the engine to TDC compression stroke #1 cyl., pull the cap off and see where the rotor is pointing. That will be #1 plug wire. firing order should be cast into manifold, should be 1-5-3-6-2-4.
I don't have a gas engine so I can't help with that. Don't have any engine books either except operators manual with only the specs in the attachment. The advice to check the manifold is right. Also if you can't find timing mark, I wouldn't be too surprised to find it on flywheel under some access cover. A lot of the old engines were like that.
Thank you oldseabee that's what I was looking for! Thank you komatsu for the help.
Too young,too old,just right.15-36-24.lol. I was told that many years ago and never forgot it.Ron G
After putting the new starter in and finding a battery and some jumper cables I got to work trying to start the 75a. First I drained the gas and flushed the line. Still would not start. So I checked for spark and I did not have any at the plugs. So I looked at the points and yep I had it. Cleaned the cap and rotor witch needs replaced and installed new used wires. I found the problem the wire on top of the coil was coroaded very bad, cleaned it and put the new used one on and she fired right up! I love the way it sounds! So komatsu and old seabee I got it running. Thanks for all the help. Also thanks for the timing the 4 and 6 spark plug wires were switched but I have them right now. I have been looking at my book and it shows a parking break, mine does not have one should it? I also see in the wiring diagram it shows a horn that mine is missing! Last it shows rear lights I'm guessing red my work lights re there and there are 2 small oval housing that I'm guessing should be the rear lights. Let me know what you think! Thanks for the help
Parking brakes are in the front wheel brake assys operated by cables from a control handle to the left of the seat. There has been a change on oil specs. Transmission above 30Deg F prevailing use 30W engine oil, -10 Deg F and up prevailing use 10W engine oil, below that use Dexron ATF (not Dexron II). Hydraulics, above 0 Deg F prevailing use 10W engine oil or C-2 hydraulic oil, -30 Deg F and up use Dexron ATF.
Can you give me an updated list of all the oils because I intend to replace it all and would like to put in what it calls for!
Engine Gas 70 Deg F and above 30W type MS, 32 Deg F -70 Deg F 20W, 0 Deg F and below and up to 32 Deg F 10W Transmission and converter as in my previous post and Hydraulic as above to meet specs API SD or SE, MIL 2104B or MIL 2104C Diff/planetary 90 W EPGL Brake master Cyl. Brake fluid dot 3. Distributor each 50 hours 2 drops 10W on wick under rotor. 500 hours remove plug on side of housing and fill with 20W oil. Generator and starter 50 hours a few drops 10W oil to oil cups.
I have 2 questions. Should I be running pump gas in the loader or should I be putting a lead additive in the gas? Also my forward and reverse lever is messed up, when the lever is in neutral the tranny is in forward and when the lever is in reverse the tranny is in neutral. What would you check or do to make it right? Also my manual says how to check the tranny oil level. It sounds to me like it is checked with the engine off but I know I have read on here that it is checked running! Am I right or wrong when I say it is checked running?
That is 3 questions. 1. Can't answer about the gas, I would think that the lead additive couldn't hurt but may not be needed. Do a Google on the eng. manufacturer, see what you can find. 2. Go down to the transmission control valve, disconnect the linkage from the Fwd/Rev handle, manually shift the transmission to neutral, each position has a detent so you can feel it. When the transmission is in neutral, move the handle to the neutral position, ( You may have to put some sort of clamp to hold it in that position or have a buddy hold it). Now adjust the linkage to the point that it connects back to the transmission Fwd/Rev lever. Adjustments could be at either end of the linkage, you just have to look see. 3. This transmission fluid level is checked with the engine off. Fill it through the converter housing, start the engine and run for a couple of minutes to make sure that the converter is full, shut engine off, wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back then check it again. The later Clark transmissions fluid level is checked with the engine running.
The factory changed the original method of checking oil and sent out a service bulletin. It can be dangerous but supposed to be running.
I did find that bulletin so that is the way to go, with the engine running. Sorry about missing that bulletin first time around. That said, crawling around under a running machine always made me nervous.
I realize that was 3 questions , I just did not think about the number. Thanks for all the info you two it always helps me a lot. It there any way one of you could send me an email of all the 75a updates?
Yea no problem, I'll send it tonight. There's only a few. Luckily these machines won't generally move at idle with the bucket down. There was a mechanic killed in our town many years ago when he started a bigger Michigan with a screwdriver or other tool while standing between the tires. I don't know if it was deliberate or just put a tool in the wrong place.
Dilpics, I sent you the supplements I have by e-mail. There was another one regarding retrofit of a transmission filter but I don't seem to have it in my records. I know it exists because I made the change in our machine. They originally did not have a transmission filter.
Thanks for doing that!
Maybe oldseabee will have it. I know my loader does not have a tranny filter on it.
I hope he's got it. It is a simple install, an external cartridge filter that that is connected to one of the cooler lines. The only other protection is a very coarse screen in the trans.
My manual does show a remote transmission filter to be on the machine Manual # 1199 The only bulletin I have is one related to three brands of filter housings used and center bolt torque. The filter shown is mounted to the right side of the frame and plumbed into the return side of the oil cooler line. I'll dig in and see if I have a parts book or some other info. Volvo dealer should have old parts list for all Clark machines.
My loader has the tranny filter on the return line from the cooler as the manual says
I went to use my loader today and when I went to load the bucket or back drag, it would bairly move. So I figured I would check the tranny fluid level and it was down so I shut it off added a quart and waited a few min then started it back up and atf cept coming ou the breather on the torque converter. Any ideas what I should check or what to do?
A quart of trans fluid on these machines has no affect. It has to be down a gal. or two to notice much difference in operation. Just asking but are you checking the fluid at the transmission and adding at the converter? This is why the factory changed the method of checking fluid level. After the engine is shut off the system will flood the transmission with oil draining back from the converter. If you then check oil the fluid level will be too low when running. When shut off the fluid level in the transmission will be much higher than the check plug if the system has the proper amount of oil. I know it doesn't seem right but the oil should be added slowly at the converter plug with machine idling until oil dribbles out the transmission check plug hole. It takes time for the oil to run to the transmission so you can't go to fast or you will overfill. We used to let the machine idle with the check hole open for a few minuses after filling and then try again to add some oil. At the moment I can't remember there being an actual vent on the converter housing. I'll take a look later today.
I checked the level with it ideling and it was low. So I shut it off and added the oil in the converter waited 3 min then started it and that's when the oil came out the breather. I read today that pressing on the brakes opens a valve on the tranny that converts all power to the hyd is this true? The breather thing has me puzzled!
I'm also wondering if it should be there. I checked the manual I got today and nothing I see says about one and nothing I see shows one eather! Anyway I was in heaven today because I drove to get my missing parts, the one bumper on the gas tank, the frount headlights, 3 complete dashes ( I only needed one), the parking brake handle, the lever for working range and travel range, the panel on the right side of the seat. Both panels for the engine compartment, the choke linkage, the linkage for the govener, and the trottle linkage, the rear red lights, a complete intake up to the carb and I also got a carb that was totally redone. I got it all for 200 dollars and I thought I got a great deal. Now its time to get it all on and fix the tranny so I can move some dirt!
Wow good parts shopping. The only breather I see is on the trans. There is a device in the transmission that puts it into neutral every time you step on the brake. In a roundabout way that says all the engine power is transferred into the hydraulics instead of straining against the brakes. Later machines have a switch to turn this feature on and off or they have two brake pedals, one does it and one doesn't. It sounds good but not so with these machines. I disabled the function in ours by plugging the ports at the master cylinder and transmission. We ran it like that for many years. The problem is this: in an old Michigan the transmission shift is pretty slow. I would see my operators always step on the throttle as they took their foot off the brake. This would cause a terrific bang as it shifted. With the system disconnected they would just naturally put the trans in neutral when they got up to the truck to dump. I thought it was much easier on the transmission to block the feature. Since Michigan put in a selector switch later I thought it would do no harm and we never had any brake problems in particular.
komatsu does yout converter have one big pump or does it have 3? My michigan is one of the early ones. It has only one big pump on the converter. My power steering is at the frount of the engine. Another way I can tell is mine takes the shorter side covers for the engine compartment. At some point michigan made the 75a a few inches longer. If you have a newer machine you might not have a breather.
I just got it confermed the breather should be there. Now all I need is to figure out why oil comes out that breather and the fill plug when I take it out. Its almost like something is resticted in the system.
I have the three pumps. I think I would pull the hose that drains oil from the converter drive housing to the transmission and see if it's clear.
If you have a C303 Converter, the converter charge pump is internal, a C272 Converter would have an external charge pump.
im back Its been way to long since I was last on here but this year has been very hard on me money wise. I finally got some extra time and money again to finish the loader and get it dissambeled for paint. I have been using it around our place and I'm amazed the engine runs as good as it does on the junk pump gas we have today! I have a wheel cylinder to rebuild and then a tranny problem to get sorted out then it is pretty much good to go. Does anyone know how much a michigan 35a series one weighs? That is my next project and I wanted to know if it was lite enough to haul on a 10,000 lb trailer.
I thought that you had a 75A, weight on 75A is 12,550 for gas powered, 12,750 for diesel. 35A should be close to 10,000 I'll have to do some looking for the 35A specs. to be sure.
I do have a 75 now but when this one is done I'm buying a 35a and wanted to know the weight so I knew what I needed to haul it home.
Please help. Have a very old 75A (serial number 9601) with a engine mounted hydraulic pump for the steering. The shaft is loose on the pump and took out the seal which is now letting hydraulic fluid into the engine. I cant seem to find a new or rebuilt pump. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Loader had a 6 cylinder gas engine and pump is mounted on the front of engine (back of loader) and has a 05-10100 cast into it. Thanks
By your S/N the steering pump is P/N 450022, there is a gear set kit which includes both gears, the body bearings, and the seals, if the housing is OK. P/N 942428.
Thanks, who would be the best source for that kit? And thanks agan.
minnpar.com now is licensed distributor of Clark parts. You can go the the website and put in the part number for a search, if they don't have it there is a phone number to call for help on the site.
Hi, no luck with Minnpar or anyone else. If someone has any ideas or a pump that might work please let me know. Thanks
I think those pressures are in the range of an ordinary belt driven pump from a truck. You just have to make sure the tank holds enough fluid as that cylinder takes a lot more than a typical steering system. My machine (older or newer?) has a converter mounted pump and uses the hydraulic oil from the main tank. The pressure adjustment is on the steering valve at the back of the cyl. so I think any pump that can supply enough volume and pressure would work. If the volume is not enough the steering will be slow.
Best bet would be to take the pump to a hydraulic house and see if they can match it, that engine was used on a variety of machines. As long as they can match the shaft, mounting, and volume. You may have to do some adapting of fittings. You may need to contact Waukeshaw engine dealer. Waukeshaw was bought out by Dresser, then Dresser was bought out by GE. You will need the model and S/N of the engine to find out anything.
For sale is a clark equipment michigan 75a series ii model # 75dgm serial # 4cg154 tractor shovel call taylor & sons, inc. @ 601-483-0714 for details.
For sale is a clark equipment michigan 75a series 2 model # 75dgm serial # 4cg154 tractor shovel call taylor & sons, inc. @ 601-483-0714 for details.
Can you post some pictures of the before, during and after for us? I also have a 75A and a 55A. Post pics of the 35A if you ended up getting one. Thanks Kent
Need help on michigan 75a transmission , works for 20 min and stalls any help be appreciated
Does the machine stop moving or are you saying the engine stalls? If pulling it backwards gets it working again, I would really suspect the transmission clutches. I can't see pulling it affecting pressures in any way. The covers and clutches can be removed without pulling the transmission. Done it several times when broken clutch teeth would drop between plates and jam that particular clutch pack.
the engine runs great , just stops moving then i shut it off and wait few min then it will start working , i have pulled backwards then it works awhile too , when its cold works super , the transmission temp is 150 degrees , i put 30 weight oil in transmission 16 qts , cleaned screen and changed filter, there was no metal in pan there was 2 inches of sludge in bottum of pan , one guy said it was charge pump Thanks
i'M LOOKING FOR transmission charge pump for michigan 75A any help will be appreciated Thanks
DO YOU STILL HAVE PARTS THANKS
[email protected] 641 590 3340 email call or txt Thanks
do you have phone number or e-mail i can contact you thanks
Travis2
how can i contact you Thanks
Travis you still have parts , I.m looking for charge pump
641 590 3340 or [email protected] txt or call
I have a 75A that I'm looking for steering parts for. Rear steering connector link tie rod ends. I have found a parts manual on line and the part # is 106109 for the end and 106108 for the complete assembly. Does anybody have a contact for me to track down these parts or any others.