Two things I realized today, 1st - The schematic for the PT100 doesn't show the reversing fan wiring. Anyone know how the wiring is for it? My fan controller was missing when I got my CTL so I can't reference mine to update the schematic. Mine only had the fan but the green tube to it was broken and the controller is missing. 2nd - What made me think of it is I have this mystery wire bundle just dangling by my back window inside the cab. The previous owner had the two black wires at the end twisted together and a jumper wire plugged into the two green wires you see about halfway down. I had assumed he was bypassing the seat switch, seatbelt switches etc but I pulled the jumper out and untwisted the wires and my CTL still started. Are these just safety stuff that affects only the two speed function or something?
Well I am pretty sure my wire bundle is indeed the seat switch and lap bar wires. Unfortunately, I have discovered more issues where I have power where I shouldn't.... I think. In trying to identify the wires, I noticed that it went to the Auxiliary Power Plug so I was going to check continuity but since you ALWAYS check for voltage before Ohming wires, I did so and discovered that Pin F is hot with 12 volts. From what I can make out, it should be ground. Here are my simplified diagrams copy and pasted from the usual master Schematic that is known to have errors.
Progress today! Found that if I pull he A/C Fuse, both this problem of 12V on what should be ground for the seat switch, Lap Bar switch and Pin F on the AUX Power plug AND my AUX Hyd Relays always being energized due to constant 12V on Pin 86 goes away. Not sure how the Hydraulic Relay issue is involved but looking at this schematic, it appears that the roof top air conditioning harness shares with the seat belt/Lap bar wires. I will be looking at the connectors tomorrow and am suspecting where the cab tilts may have crunched something causing a short though I don't see why there is power with the ignition off. Still, it's progress.
Chased all the cab wires and either my machine is ALL messed up or else diagram going around is wrong. I verified that the Aux Hydraulic relay pin 86 is not connected to either the low flow hydraulic switch or the momentary switches on the right joystick like the wiring diagram claims. For the safety switches having 12V when off, I traced the wires through the cab harness and the diagram shows only 2 wires mixed with other stuff on the main harness but my machine has a separate plug with 4 wires labeled "Safety" . Two of the wires have numbers close to what the diagram shows but mine are 201-A65 instead of 200-A65 like the diagram says and 201-A142 vs 200-A142 I found a post where someone had a problem like this and he posted a number for ASV support and they used schematics from two different machines to fix his problem. I'm going to call them tomorrow and see what they say.
Oh, how do you get the fuse box loose? I don't see any mount bolts. Are the nuts where you hook the battery cable to one of them also the mount bolts? If I could get the fuse box loose and flip it over to see, I could clean it and maybe see any issues. I'm almost suspecting a plug under there swapped.
Safety circuit relay problem appears to be caused by the Safety circuit capacitor. It appears to be good but it is definitely putting voltage on pin 85 of the Seat relay. When I disconnect it, the voltage goes away. It's reading 3200 microfarads and ohms at 5K ohms so it doesn't appear to be shorted but it is the key. I had a heck of a time finding it. For those that want to know, it is ziptied to the wire bundle underneath the fuse box. It looks like this....
You are hot after it, and will soon get it figured. When I saw this post, I recalled a similar problem... I will be looking at the connectors tomorrow and am suspecting where the cab tilts may have crunched something causing a short though I don't see why there is power with the ignition off.
All I can recommend before looking at connectors is pull fuses and relays until voltage draw stops. That can tell you what circuit you need to focus on. Once you get it nailed down, then you know what connectors or other parts to key in on. I don't have my part yet so I can't verify but from looking into my safety circuit, it appears that if you jumpered your seat and seat belt switch like so many do, it should energize the relays and that will draw about an amp or so. I plan to verify if this is true soon as I get my capacitor installed and if so, I am going to just wire in a simple toggle switch that I can flip when I want to use it and then switch it off when I'm done. From the wiring diagram, it should be this way though since the Seat and Safety relays get their pin 86 power from the safety fuse which is always hot since it is inline with the ignition battery terminal on the key switch. When you jumper the seat and seat belt switches, it provides ground for the relay coil and energizes it. Nothing goes through the contacts of the relays because they only get power with the key on but the coils in the relay are still drawing a small amount of power while energized. Again, this is theory and I won't be able to verify on my machine until I get my part and install it.
If you have not done so then it is advisable to remove the jumper and repair switch or what ever is not working right Have a neighbor that had a problem with battery draining down on a PT100 (Seat switch was jumpered when he got the machine) Simple fix was to reconnect the seat switch and made sure it worked ,battery drain problem solved
I just realized I didn't post here like I did on my two other threads. It turns out that the wiring diagram that was going around and being used by all of us is only for non-forestry PT100s. Forestry models have different fuses and relays in different positions and the wiring is different. What I thought was aux hydraulic relays were safety, seat and seat belt relays and where the A/C fuse is on regular models is a safety circuit fuse on forestry models. I only had a safety circuit problem and the capacitor that I will hopefully arrive next week should fix it. I have my machine all back together with the capacitor removed and no stray voltages or battery drain. Now if I can just get 2 of my filters to stop leaking, I'll be set. Anyone have a picture of the light plug on the back of an older model PT100F? I received my wire bundle that goes from the main harness by the firewall to the back of the machine where the lights are but the plugs on the end are regular female spade terminals in a "T" formation. The light bulbs are 2 pins. There must be some adapter sockets that the diagram isn't showing because the lights won't plug into the harness the way it is plus it would put the harness almost against the radiator. Seems like there should be a 90 degree male spade to 2 pin socket or something. Here is the thread for the correct wiring diagram and fuse box reference for the PT100F Forestry model PT100F correct wiring diagram and fuse box thread
I also had issues and concluded the old man installed a seat switch jumper and always keeping seatbelt connected was the reason for the battery drain. Once I discovered this, I wired in a manual switch for the seat and eliminated the jumper, and unhook seatbelt at shut down. This has cured battery drain. However, I noticed intermittently the safety circuit will not disengage and allow hydraulic systems to run. Now it wont drive or lift. Your commentary of the safety circuit capacitor has me in the light bulb moment. Did the new capacitor resolve the issue for you????
Capacitor fixed my bleeding voltage problem. I checked my seat and seat belt switches and they were good so I made everything back to original design. Everything is working correctly now and no electrical issues.