Getting 350-3 lift linkage voltage above normal, 723-2 engine speed sensor #2 data erratic intermittent or incorrect and 636-2 engine position sensor (I didn’t get a pic of this alert but think verbiage was the same as 723-2). I have searched the forum and found t shooting procedures posted by Nige which I appreciate. I don’t have a service manual but with the frequency of these issues reckon I better get one. Help on source for that would be appreciated. Getting ready to try and run the issues down but have no idea what the location of each sensor is. I suspect the two engine sensors are close together? This was a nasty experience as the machine locked down traveling at 75% throttle and it threw me around pretty good messing up a shoulder.
First question. Are the three Diagnostic Codes you metioned Active, Logged, or a combination of both.? Or do they come & go randomly.? BTW if they were Event Codes there would be a letter "E" in front of the digits. All the ones you posted above are Diagnostic Codes.
A bit more info. Found a file on the forum, excellent source, for sensor location. Have not found resistor if in fact my machine has one. Both plugs showed 5 vdc. Pulled both and they were free of damage. I did notice that the cam position sensor did not have the shim in pic. The crank sensor did. I will wait for replies before doing any further work.
Nige they are not logged nor do they show as active. They appear 3-4 minutes after start and lock the drive down hard. The machine does not go to limp mode.
So in your OP are you simply repeating what you see displayed (at the time) on the LCD screen in the cab.? What procedure do you use for accessing Logged Events & Codes.?
More info. Forgive me for my ignorance on the code types. Here are pics of diagnostic log and active events. The screen on the left is logged the right is active. Diagnostics.
The fog is starting to clear........ You do have an electrical schematic, correct.?
I have the operators manual. No help there.
Check your messages. I'll send you one. You're going to need it along with this attachment. The Speed/Timing test is the diagnostic you are going to have to perform.
Yes sir. It will be tomorrow before I get to work on it again.
And that's how it's supposed to be. The crank position sensor is shimmed, cam position is not. See below. Unless the crank position sensor was changed there would be no need to change the shim(s). Strange I can't find a procedure for the sensor adjustment.
I got the schematic. Hyperlink doesn’t seem to be functional as I have to download it to files in my iPad. I can find both on the schematic. Can you confirm my machine does not have the 1150 resistor? I have tested the plugs the sensor and I have 5vdc. The sensors are not damaged as I inspected them.
No idea about an iPad but why should a pdf file not have all the properties on that device tha tis has on a windows-based system.? Use a laptop or PC and the hyperlinks will work. It does have it. See Page 11, Grid C-13 of the schematic. Also the schematic is for FD2-prefix machines above 1724, which includes yours.
Might be instructional for others if I keep it on the forums instead of PM. So I am stuck right now on locating this plug.
I am here but can’t get it to navigate me.
I went through the pages that have views of the machine. Is this as close as I can get to a location?
Sitting looking at the machine. I think this is it. Stretching my abilities but across the two male pins I get 120 ohms.
Confirm from the wire numbers (Y797 & Y798) if you can see them. They should be marked every 6" or so on the insulation of each wire
I can’t see numbers. Yellow/green. Two wires. Terminates into what I am guessing is the resistor. The resistor would not be in line..correct?
This is what I am checking.
Maybe the engine voltage high message relates to the resistor ?
Which message was that.? Did I miss it.?
It was momentary as I was trying to get the machine back to the barn. What are 168-3 and 190-0?
Before I get into answering your last question it seems a good idea to explain the difference between Diagnostic Codes and Events. A Diagnostic Code is generated when an electronic component (e.g. a sensor), the wiring associated with it, or the ECM to which it reports has some type of fault that prevents the values of the measured parameter being correctly transmitted to or received by the ECM in question. On your screen this will appear as 190-0 or 168-3. An Event occurs when the electronics are working fine but the value of a measured parameter goes outside the limits programmed into the software of the ECM to which it reports. On your screen Events are always preceeded by the letter "E", for example E875-2. Considering electrical system voltage there are three separate Events (Level 1, 2, & 3) associated with it: - E875-1. Activates when the engine is Not running and battery voltage is 10 VDC for 2 seconds. Also Activates when the engine is running and battery voltage is 13.0 VDC for 2 seconds. Action - If the level 1 event remains active for more than 5 minutes or is repeatedly activated, shutdown operation at the earliest opportunity. E875-2. Activates when the engine is running and battery voltage is 12.25 VDC for 2 seconds. Action - If the level 2 event remains active for more than 5 minutes or is repeatedly activated, shutdown operation at the earliest opportunity. E875-3. Activates when the engine has been running for at least 1 minute and battery voltage is 11.75 VDC for 2 seconds. Action - Immediate Safe Shutdown Required.
Excellent. I do remember that when my alternator was going bad.
Can you remember exactly what the message said.? 168-3 is system voltage failed high. 190-0 is the engine speed sensor failed high. The issue with Diagnostic Codes is that the troubleshooting procedures for them can only be applied when the Code is Active. Your Codes appear to be Logged which means they were Active once but are not Active at this time. There should be 4 different sub-menu screens for Diagnostic Codes & Events, as follows: - Active Diagnostic Codes, Logged Diagnostic Codes, Active Events, & Logged Events. Can you get into all 4, even if one or more of them contains no information.?
Each screen has two menus. Active and logged I believe. I will verify the n the morning. Your help is much appreciated.
That could possibly be the case. You might have Active on one screen and Logged on the other, with Diagnostic Codes & Events mixed up on the same screen.
Nige I have several screenshots of the cab display. I scrolled through Events and sub menus. Also Diagnostics and sub menus. Let me know if I should post them up in this thread or go to PM. I also ohmed out the resistor with it plugged into the harness. Unplugged it read 120. Plugged in it reads 60. I used spoons and checked continuity from spoon to pin to make sure I was reading across the resistor. The pic on the left just shows using deutsch pins to access the female terminals in the plug to check continuity.
That is correct because there is another 120 ohm resistor in a not-so-accessible location and so with the two of them in parallel you should get a reading of 60 ohms. See here - https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/parallel-resistance-calculator/ No you're fine. So long as you have the complete list of the Logged and Active screens no more is needed. If I can find the photos I'll post something that I recall of mixed Codes/Events on the same screen, so having only two sub-menus would be logical.
Here goes. Event screen first.
Last two event screens
Diagnostics
More Diagnostics
Last 3.
Those overlap a bit. Tried to get all of them in. They are in order of occurrence. I have replaced drive speed sensor, lift pump, alternator and fully serviced machine since I acquired it.
So here's the list. As discussed earlier -1, -2, & -3 are Levels 1, 2, & 3 of whatever Event. Events E232 - Water-in-fuel sensor - located in secondary fuel filter. E391 - Inlet air restriction (air filter blocked). E875 - Electrical System Voltage. Diagnostic Codes 350-3 - Lift Position Sensor voltage above normal. 168-3 - system voltage failed high. 190-0 - engine over-speed. 723-2 & -8 - Engine speed/timing sensor #2 Abnormal frequency (-2), erratic/incorrect data (-8) 1239-1 - Fuel rail pressure low (least severe) 523603-15 - Engine coolant temperature high (least severe) 190-2 - Engine speed sensor. Abnormal frequency pulse width or period. 350-3, -4, & -8 - Lift Position sensor. Voltage above normal (-3), below normal (-4), erratic/incorrect data (-8) 2685-8 - LH Motor Speed Sensor #1 erratic/incorrect data 2687-2 & -8 - RH Motor Speed Sensor #1. Abnormal frequency (-2), erratic/incorrect data (-8) 2688-2 - RH Motor Speed Sensor #2. Abnormal frequency. The Diagnostic Code in bold is the only one that is Active at this time. All the others are historical. without connecting ET and doing a full download there is no way of telling when any of those Logged DC's were actually generated.
I am trying to figure out my next step to get back running. The Engine speed alert was the first. Engine position next. Those keep me from working. When it locks up it’s ugly. The lift position is intermittent. I guess I am thinking replace resistor and the engine position sensor. Since it is common to cam position sensor that would give me some wiggle room to swap. All events have been taken care of with maintenance and repairs. The drive speed sensor issue was in fact a bad rh drive sensor that I replaced.
Based on HEF experience the wiring harness would be my first thought. Have you tried any “pull tests” on it with the engine running.?
No sir. Around resistor and down to the sensors? Wiggle and tug?? I sure hate to have the Cat man out to the farm. Ugh. Looks like the engine harness is $1160. Ouch.
He probably wouldn’t find anything unless he had previous experience of a failure. From memory there is one particular spot where the harness makes a 90-deg turn from running along the side of the engine to running across one end of it. At that location there is likely to be a) no slack and b) the harness will be zip-tied so tight that it looks like it’s being strangled……. One clue is in the 1239-1 Code in your list, even though it is not Active. That’s pretty much it, and don’t be gentle with it.
I will give it a go. Thanks. I think the fuel pressure low was when the fuel filters were blinded. I was told the machine had just been serviced. Must have forgot fuel filters, air filters, oil filter, oil….Moral of that story is to service a used machine before you ever use it.
Don’t forget to drain the water & sediment from the fuel tank and make sure all the fuel lines are clear, plus check the passages in the filter head are not blocked up with particles.
Buttoned everything up and took the machine out to try and get the alert messages. I pulled and tugged the harness around the front of the engine and down the oil filter side. Ram it for 20 minutes at varying speeds over rough terrain. No alerts. Nothing. Even the 350-3 is gone. Now I am confused. I had the resistor unplugged and plugged back. The engine position and speed sensors unplugged and removed. That is all I have done. Now I have little confidence about getting a job started for fear it will lay down again. Head scratcher for sure.
Every time you do that you should spray both halves of the connector with aerosol contact cleaner. You could be up against nothing more than cr@p in the connectors. The Deutsch connectors Cat use are the class of the field but even they are not 100% immune to the entry of dirt and/or condensation. If you want to go the extra mile then use a small amount of dielectric grease on each connector after cleaning. This stuff is the Rolls Royce of dielectrics in my experience - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/302369781491
I will post up if problem continues. I am usually not lucky enough for a simple fix to work. Thanks for your help.
While replacing the fuel pump on my machine I had the time to thoroughly inspect the wiring harness. Behind the water regulator housing I found a place in the harness that had chafed against the end of the radiator hose clamp. I stripped the wiring harness cover and found the ground and power supply wires to the crank sensor to have insulation damage. I stripped the harness cover back and separated the wires for inspection. I repaired the wires and re-taped the harness with harness tape. I also turned the hose clamp so the tag end would not bear against the harness. So far it has cured my fault codes. I was intermittently getting 723-2 which was associated with the crank sensor