Engine was just idling and it quit. Went to start it again and it would start but not run continuously when the key was returned to "run". It would start and run if I held the key in "start". I found that the 10 amp "lockout" fuse was blown so I replaced it with another 10 amp fuse. It then started and ran for about 30 seconds and there was a loud "pop" and it stopped. There was that all to familiar smell of burned electrical. I checked the fuse again and it was good, but it won't run now (back to the original issue). I pulled the instrument cluster and key switch. Switch tests good and there are no signs of short circuits or burned wiring. Could the control module be the problem? I've checked all the harnesses and they're good. Thanks in advance.
Check to see if you have a bad safety solenoid, if your machine is so equipped.
It just has a fuel solenoid, and it works good. Where would a safety solenoid be? I don't see one in the book.
Generally solenoids will be located on the pump, or in a valve bank. Look for wires going there, and follow back to solenoid controlled valves...
I dug a little further behind the instrument cluster and found a timer (p/n 420-35877) that all the smoke leaked out of. This is supposed to be on a 2050, not a 2040. Hmm. Can I just bypass this? Maybe I can do without it. I'm thinking I can jumper the two vertical terminals on the plug to take the timer out of the circuit, making it conform to the 2040 schematic. The pinouts for the control module remain the same. Thoughts? Just one wire going to the fuel solenoid, and that part is good. My bad - three wires on fuel solenoid - white (goes to starter relay), red (goes to "aux" on control module), black (ground). Thinking the module is good since the engine starts and will run as long as the key switch is held in the start position.
A thought I had; Could a shorted out hold-in coil in the fuel solenoid burn out the timer? I really need to get this resolved.
Apparently this timer was added to all machines some time after 1998. I still don't quite understand it's purpose other than it has some function with the brakes. It's p/n has been superseded by #174983. Golden Eagle is ~$70, German-Bliss is ~$60. Both plus shipping.
Check your fuel solenoid again; the red wire should have power when the key is switched on; the white wire from starter solenoid will energize when starter is engaged; the red wire holds the solenoid in the run position after starting. these solenoids go bad on one circuit quite often.
Holy cow! That costs more than the control module. I'll check that today if I can get to it without pulling the engine. MUS/GEHL VALVE MAGNET (PART#: 425-34585) Part#: 425-34585 Your Price: $310.07
Update: The 10 amp lockout fuse I thought was good, wasn't. I removed the timer, replaced the fuse, and it starts and runs continuously, so presumably the fuel solenoid is good. Lift and tilt functions work normally, but the brakes won't release. I jumpered the two vertical posts on the timer plug with a 10 amp circuit breaker and it tripped immediately when I started the engine, no problem with start/run anymore. I have a new timer on order but now I'm reluctant to install it seeing that there is possibly a dead short in the brake solenoid circuit. I'll be away for a few days, but I'll check that when I return. I suppose it's possible that the brake solenoid went bad.
Ooooooooo, Noooooo - 425-34585 is the one for Mustang 2060 with Isuzu engine! You have the Yanmar Engine.....
the 3 wire fuel shutoff solenoid for the Yanmar engine is 425-35925 (Ours $132 + freight & tax)
That delay timer waits about a second after losing signal from lap bar, seat belt, seat switch before locking the brake, prevents an immediate brake lockup when you momentarily bounce off the seat going over a bump etc.
Correct, I do have the Yanmar engine, but I don't think the schematic really cares. The schematic says : "Timer for 2050 only." and gives that part number. I think the timer was added to all machines after about 1999.
That's good to know. Thanks.
Ok, that makes sense. So if I have a failed brake solenoid coil that shorts to ground, then that explains, maybe, why the timer blew?
My parts book doesn't give a p/n for the brake solenoid. Do you have that information? I think I will need the coil only, maybe.
170-34742 (see attached) subs to: 170-34809 $57.88 in stock
Well, silly me. I have those pages, but I was looking for a brake solenoid valve because that's what they call it in the book. Hahahaha. Thanks. I'll let you know how it checks out.
Update: The fuel solenoid is good, so is the brake solenoid. The timer is taking forever to get here, so I took the unused ROPS AUX circuit and installed a 10 amp circuit breaker and toggle switch and ran it down to the brake solenoid. I disconnected the brake solenoid connector, taking it out of the safety circuit, and tapped in my "jumper circuit" to the coil. This allows me to set the brakes any time I want to, and the brakes engage normally whenever the key switch is turned off (no hold open power). The machine now works "normally" until I get all the right parts. The lighted brake switch doesn't light in red or green mode, but I'm getting the work done, just using extreme caution.
Update: New timer arrived and apparently it's "new and improved" and US made. Installed it and all is well again.