Hi all. I just picked this up yesterday. It's a 1973 580B that needs some TLC. I'm going to use it for light duty odd jobs around the property. This is my first backhoe and I don't have much experience with tractors except for building a Detroit 453 recently so I expect to be asking a lot of noob questions. I do know how to turn a wrench, use a torch, cut metal, and weld. The machine has some leaks in the cylinders. Most aren't that bad. A drop here and there. Should I bother repairing those? On one swing cylinder I have a steady leak. It's coming out around the gland nut. (is that the proper term?) I don't yet have a spanner wrench to try to tighten it up. I've seen the adjustable spanner wrenches on the net that use a 1/2" breaker bar. Do they work? Or should I buy a wrench for each size of cylinder? What's a good brand to buy? How tight are these caps? The front bucket arm is slightly bowed and has been repaired. The rear repair was done properly and the front repair looks like a farmer's weld. I don't like it either but I expect it'll hold well enough for my use. Maybe I'll find a used arm one of these years. I suspect that the damage was caused at the same time that the front bucket damage happened. That's just a guess though. Any other guesses? What I presume is a bucket leveling rod is missing. Is that a simple rod with ends that connect to the hole in the bucket tilt bar and then to the mechanics by the hand lever? The front bucket is missing some of the steel on the bottom. Is that something I can just make from some plate or is it special in some way? Hardened? The left wheel is missing something. Would that be the kingpin bearing? Is there anything else that is missing? Last but not least, the boom lock is shot. Does anyone have a template of what a new one looks like so I can make up a new set? Any help or comments wold be appreciated. Kirk
Here are some more pics:
Hey Kirk22, you want to ask Elast from this forum those questions that you have..........he is very knowledgable about Case Machines, especially the older ones............here is his profile URL on this forum.......send him a direct message
Good Luck........Elast:canada
Thanks for the replies. I do think I should do something with the spindle. There's so much slop that I think it will do some damage. Any tricks would be appreciated. I looked at the front arm again and now I'm thinking that the hoe was pulling the front bucket into the air and the operator let it crash into the ground one too many times. :Banghead That would explain the direction of the bow. I think I'll buy one of those universal spanners and if that doesn't work I'll buy a 3 pin one for the bigger cylinders. And if that doesn't work, I guess it's time to buy a big pipe wrench. BTW, Does anyone have a photo of a gland nut after it's been removed? I'm curious as to how deep the threads go into the cylinder.
The gland nut is about 3"-4 inches deep. The threads typically go about 1 1/2 inches. The oring and backup ring are just behind the outside rim of the gland. The rest of the seals are inside. Elast
Great piece of equipment to start with. You can get alot of small jobs in with it. Good luck in your investment.
Well I got some seat time in today. I dug a dozen stumps out. Got myself stuck in red clay goo. Used the hoe to push me out. Fun stuff. People get paid for this? There's a couple more issues however. My 580B is different than my friends. On his you didn't have to use the clutch to shift the shuttle. On mine I do need to use the clutch. I'm pretty confused about the different shuttle shifts on these. What do I have? Is it good or bad? On the cab floor there's a high/low shifter. It will pop out of low gear by itself. If I manually hold the shifter up it WILL stay in low gear. Because of it popping out of low, I've been running it in high gear and first speed. At some points when pushing a big load, the engine's spinning but the wheels aren't. Is this normal or a sign of clutch or shuttle problems? I don't want to fry anything. One of the things I need a backhoe for is to build a workshop so right now I don't have the space to break this thing in half to do major repairs. Oh, one more thing. What's the round 'pedal' by the foot throttle? Does that lock the rear differential up? Kirk
Yes, diff. lock. If you have it in high you're not getting enough torque to get power to handle strenuous loads I think. I'm not too familiar with the B's when it comes to technical stuff. Ours just had the 4 speed or whatever it was and you'd stop the hoe, put it in neutral and move to whatever gear you wanted, there was no high or low speed. Anything over 2nd gear and you didn't have enough power to scoop into heavy materials like topsoil but you sure could cruise around the lot. I would not continue to do that unless you hear from Phil or Elast about this, I don't think it's good to be using the machine in heavy applications in high gear. Blake WA
Well this is first gear high I've been using. It only took a couple times for me to figure out that something may not be right. I think I can bungee up the low range shifter to keep it in low gear. It doesn't take much pressure to hold it. Just enough to counter the weight of the shifter arm. I'll know more after I try the bungee. It seems more like a poor design and detent problem rather that a badly worn gear forcing itself out of the way. (If that makes sense)
Good Luck....Elast:canada
Thanks so much Elast. I'll pull the shift cover this weekend. What's the general procedure for accessing the clutch? I can baby the clutch until I can either find another machine or build my shop but I would like a general idea of what's involved. For example does the loader and hoe have to come off before splitting the tractor in half?
Put tractor in high range high gear and let clutch out slowly. If it does not try to stall engine clutch is slipping bad. You do not have to take off loader or hoe, you can change clutch by removing engine only. Lota of supports are needed but it is easilly done. I have done many over the years. Elast
I do have a friend with a shop a couple miles away. He's got his own equipment to work on though. About how much time are you talking about to pull the engine and replace the clutch? Can you be more specific on the supports. Would that be wood cribbing under the trans or the front end???? Can the engine and front end be rolled forward as a unit? I'm not at the machine right now. Is there an access plate to check for oil on the clutch or in the flywheel housing? I'm sorry to be asking such noob questions. I'm still waiting on a manual. I really do appreciate your help.
Have fun and be carefull. Have lots of beer around (drank in moderation till AFTER the work is done) and all your buddies will be glad to help...LOL Elast
Kirk22, I do have a pattern off a used B boom latch that was in near perfect condition when I bought it. I will see if I can locate it. Not sure about the material used in this application, if you plan on making a new one. Check for all washers used when you replace the front spindle thrust bearing. They may be missing or damaged. Clean off the oil on your swing cylinder gland and make sure that is the leak. I had a leak from a crack at the base of the weld-on fitting that sits near it, recently. Good luck, Phil:canada
Elast, That makes sense thanks. You are most helpful. Is it normal procedure to resurface/replace the flywheel or pressure plate or is that only done if there is visible damage. While it is split is there anything else I should replace? Rear main seal, tranny input shaft seal, etc? I've seen the other posts on how much of a b*tch it is to gain access to the shuttle clutches on the B models. With the engine out, am I any closer to accessing them for replacement? How about the high/low gears if they are bad? Is it possible that the shuttle could be the cause of the slipping rather than the main clutch?
Thanks Phil. A latch pattern would be most helpful. I have an old pantograph flame cutter that could cut them out fairly easily after I make the first metal pattern.
Elast:canada
Just Got a 580B For some reason I can not start a new post but I can reply to an existing one. Right now I am new to heavy equipment. I got a case 580B today. It needs some work and I am hoping you guys can help me with it. I first should get an operators manual so i know how all the controls work. So am I trying to find one of these. The machine needs work. It will start and drive, the buckets are in nice shape, the hydraulics work but some of the cylinders leak and the hoe drops pretty quickly. The electrical is tore up on it. I will have to find a wiring diagram to repair it. The tach does not work. Is that electrical or cable driven? The brakes do nothing. I am guessing that the two pedals on the right are the left and right brakes. Do these have a master cylinder and where should I look for it? I think the machine is low on hydraulic fluid, how can I check this, and what type of fluid should I use? The standard hydraulic fluid from Wal-mart? On the right side of the machine there is something that looks like a pressure gauge? I am not sure as it is damaged? Do they have a pressure gauge on the hydraulics? Is the filter on the right side, and is it a cartridge type filter? The engine smokes a little when I first start it up but am told this is normal. It is a diesel. I have also saw there is a difference between a power shuttle shift and a dry clutch. Mine machine has a clutch pedal, but i don't need to push it in to change direction. I do need to push it in to change gear. What type of transmission do i have in the machine. What is the better type to have? If you guys need pictures to help me what should i take a picture of? My first plans for the machine is to change all the fluids and filters, repair the brakes, and the cylinder leaks. While I would like to think of myself as a pretty good mechanic, but that is just on cars and trucks, not heavy equipment. I hope you guys can help me out a bit. I am told I should get a service manual, there are several out there from the printed manuals to ones on cd. I can use the ones on cd, but I question how good they are. There is a good price difference between a printed one and a cd. I am on a bit of a budget, but the machine came along at a good price, or so I think. Maybe I was wrong. I will try and get pictures up as soon as I can and as soon as I figure out how to post them. Thanks for the help in Advance
First, welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums! Here's why you were unable to start a thread. (If your question is unique, sometimes one of the staff will post a new thread for you, but this thread seems to be right where your questions belong.) Here's a tutorial on posting pictures. I'm not sure you have this right. I had a 580C, and I think the Bs were similar. The pedal on the left is for both brakes, while the paired pedals on the right are indeed for right and left brakes. (If the brakes system is shot, you might think you're pushing on a clutch pedal, since it would go to the floor.) There are two separate master cylinders--one for each side. The lone brake pedal on the left is simply mechanically linked so that it activates both master cylinders. Do the other brake pedals not go down together with the single one? On the C, the master cylinders were right above the pedals, under the dashboard (if that's what you'd call it.) I don't know whether that's the same on the B or not. Can you shift gears by placing the shuttle lever in neutral, without pressing any of the pedals? If you're able to shift from forward to reverse without pressing on any pedals, then you have the power shuttle. I don't think you'd have any chance of shifting forward to reverse without the clutch if you had that kind of machine. The power shuttle is the better type. Sounds like you've got your work cut out for you...
Thanks for the input, I think it is a 4 speed transmission stick in the center. I can't get the back into a gear unless i push the left pedal down. It seems like the first thing I should do is get the manuals. then change all the fluids Can anyone comment on the CD manuals? Are they any good? Are they complete?
Mods i know some forums like to keep the threads to a minimum. Would it be ok to keep this thread or should i start a new one. new guy here don't want to anger the mods
If you want to continue the current discussion, then just make additional posts here. If you want to discuss a new topic, then go ahead and start a new thread.
Welcome to the forum Tresslers:drinkup We have some very knowledgeable help for you here including Elast and Melben, so you're in good hands . I have a 580D CD and although I like a book alot better, I can't complain about the cost. Your B should have mechanical brakes, so if the linkage is working properly, and the pedal firms up after, I guessing 2-3"of travel, then the problem is in the brake assembly. The guage I think you are referring to is the filter guage, mounted on the hydraulic filter housing. It measures differential pressure...good luck changing these filters, the housing can be difficult to remove. I have used the hydraulic oil that wal-mart sells. On the left side loader frame at the top is the fill point and there should be a breather on both frames at the top. Oil level is a plug on the left frame below the fill plug. There is an air bleed plug at the front of the left frame. Tach cable failure is a common problem. The B is so easy to work on the dash with the cover removed. Disconnect the cable at the tach or at the engine to check for failure. I have a 580CK manual showing wiring if you can't find a schematic anywhere else. Try this site, then click search for parts at the bottom, enter 580B and go to electrical, for a picture. Might help. Phil http://www.casece.com/services/NAE/services.asp?RL=NAE&id=33
Kirk22, Here is an interesting link on crack repair, if you are planning any loader frame welding. Phil http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/92292-fixing-cracks-backhoe-big-pics.html
Thanks for the info. It looks like a have a little bit to do. I really have to fix the brakes, it shouldn't be to bad
It sounds like you're in the same boat as I am in regards to repairs and learning a new machine. I haven't seen a cd manual for the B models yet. If you find one please let me know. I have a CD manual for a detroit diesel engine and it's just scanned pages. You can't do a text search. It's harder to use than paper but the price was much cheaper. BTW, Are you in PA? If so, I use to ride the trails there years ago.
I have found a few on Ebay for sale but they do not appear to be the complete service manual. I am going to try and buy a paper book. It seems like these would be more complete And the cd manuals might just be a copy of a copy of a copy. Someone buys one and then goes and sells them on ebay.
Yes I am in PA, I should list it in my profile. There are alot of good trails in the mountains. I have an old military truck i like to drive around
580B Radiator Drain Can't post my own thread. Im a little confused about that, but happy to be here anyways. Just bought a 580B . Thought I was overheating, but it appears maybe I have a bad guage or bad temp sensor, not sure which. Start it and it stays on the very far left, after i let it warm for a minute I give it throttle and the needle starts making little bounces, then i bump the throttle up and then shortly it bounces all the way to the right. It happens in less than two minutes. Probably too short to be overheating the engine and by the way it bounces, it seems to be something else. Not sure if guages or sensors are still avail. While I was checking it out, I noticed the radiator fluid looked like mud puddle water. I cant find a visible drain. What is the easiest way to drain the radiator? Thought about the bottom hose, but its too short and hard to get to. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cory Loomis, Ca
Blake WA
posting problem Thanks Coopers. After posting my reply I got my answer why I can't post. Sounds like a good reason to do it this way. Thanks again. Cory
Welcome Shellman, There should be a drain tap on the bottom tank of that radiator on the right side, facing to the rear I believe, but if you don't see it, take the grill off the front and look. B's have removable guards on both sides of the rad. Engine drain is on the rear of the block on the left side. Sounds like it needs a flush. The sensor for the heat guage is a variable resistor and there is a test with an ohm meter to determine the problem. Much like testing a fuel guage in a car. You always have the option of installing a new mechanical guage. I'm hoping someone else will help you here because I'm not sure about testing or sensor interchange. Phil
Thanks Phil. I will take the grills off this weekend and take a look.
Kirk22, Here is a picture of the right side of the latch. Left side has the boss for spring hook, I think. Dimensions have been taken off an outline, so they are approximate. I believe there is a slight hook in the latch. The one I copied appeared to be in as new condition. Phil
Well I got the power steering hose fixed. I also found out why the brakes don't work. there are a few parts missing in the linkages. I went to cases website for parts I need to following parts G10708 Shaft- cross, lower brake level 126-124 woodruff Key 1/4" x 1" A37230 Lever Brake L.H. (R.H. end of shaft) A37231 Lever Brake R.H. B18145 Washer F62093 snap Ring 141-6 pin 132-48 cotter pin Some of the parts are basic parts, the cross shaft and the brake levels will be hard to find. probably dealer only. I also found out that i think the machine has a diff lock on it. there is a part on the rear axle but i don't have a rod through the floor for the control There are no pictures of this on cases website It this in a parts book? can anyone help me here? thanks dave
I could probably get you a picture, part # and some dimensions of that diff lock rod. I think you should find a wreck for your brake parts, and I'm betting that any 580B wreck will still have those parts on them(no demand for linkage parts). Try a big used tractor parts dealer. They often wreck construction models. I will try and get you a picture of the brake linkage on the machine as I have 2 in the yard. Phil
Thanks Phil, The pics will be a great help. Do you know of any of those places that I could contact about wrecked machines? Or the used parts dealers online? I have been looking since i got he machine, unless I am missing something.
Tresslers, Posting some pictures, hope they help. Phil
Posting 2 diff lock pictures. Phil
Thank you very much phil the parts that I need are best shown in the second picture. They are the two levers on the left and the cross over bar. When I say left I refer to the pictures left not the machine left. I will try and get a post showing the parts I need with a circle over them. On the diff lock I need the rod that goes through the floor with the clevis and the knob by the accelerator pedal. The lever is on the diff lock but there is no controls.
Ok in the first picture of the diff lock in the blue square I need this rod with the clevis and the pin etc. On the second picture I need the knob in the green circle. I think this should be one piece. On the third picture i need the the rod that is in the black circles. this is the main rod, you can't see it directly but it is under the other parts. I need the two levers in the red and blue circles. Let me know if you guys can help thanks It is good to have the pictures to see what I am missing. The parts manuals are not as helpful as the actual pictures.
I also need an intake heater. Is that a case only part or could i get that elsewhere?
I just purchased my first backhoe, a 1966 Case 530 CK. A little ugly cute right now. It needs a head gasket, or so the owner said. I figured for $2500.00 I could get that for parts if it is too bad. Doesn't appear to badly beaten up. Looking forward to getting it home to start. It will be used to clear our land in Haliburton. Funny thing is I have work offers already. I may be doing some brain picking in the near future. I already have learned a fair bit by reading previous post.
Good luck with your new / old machine. I just got a bunch of the pins that I ordered in. I have ordered some brake parts hopefully I can get the machine so it will stop.
Guys, I got the brakes apart. It looks like there are new linings but i don't see how the brake disks are engaged. I can see how the bands work but is there supposed to be a way for the drum to press against the case? I also have a problem with a transmission leak. There is transmission fluid leaking from the starter. The actual starter itself. Did anyone ever hear of this before. Any ideas why it would do that and how do i fix it. Also I can't get the diff lock off of the brake housing. I have the 6 bolts removed but the diff lock housing is still solid on the brake housing. And can't get the brake housing clear of the machine. I have the 4 bolts removed. So i am stuck on the right side. I have the left side removed. let me know if you guys can help thanks
From what i have found i have to get the diff lock off of the brake housing before i can remove the brake housing. How can i make sure the ramp and ball system is working inside the drum? Any thoughts why my starter is leaking transmission fluid? I will start again on it tomorrow as the machine is outside and it is cold. From what i have seen the right side has an oil leak on the brakes. Which seals do i need to replace? Is it an o ring or a normal axle seal. Do i have to buy the seal from case? thanks again
The brake band slows the drum from turning, and this forces the drum and disc apart horizontally, by action of the ball bearings rolling up the ramps inside the unit. Now the linings on the drum and rotor assembly are forced against the case and inner plate.The disc is driven by the spline on the differential carrier assembly, and of course wants to keep turning while the drum does not, once you slow it with the outer brake band. I hope I've explained somewhat clearly. The 580CK and 580B with converter drive had a wet flywheel housing. Starters used in this application have to be used with a mounting gasket and an internal shaft seal. Failure of this seal can affect starter life/operation and leak oil. The diff lock assembly has one socket head capscrew toward the cover front. It is hard to see and is flush. The brake cover should come off after that is removed if the loader frame has had the relief cut into it where it mounts on the axle housing. To answer #48 post, I'm not sure how to bench test the drum/rotor assembly. I would certainly take it apart and inspect the ramps and balls for wear. Pretty simple device. Common problem, leaking shaft seals. If oil gets on the lining, I would replace them. Get the shaft seal from Case and the o-ring too. There is a sleeve needed to help with the install. I believe it was Melben in an earlier thread who had the idea to adjust the brake up tight on the opposite side to avoid disturbing it's seal and cause a leak. Phil
Phil How do I fix the seal? Is that a problem in the starter or do have have to split the engine and fix the transmission. From what i have read i have to fix a seal in the starter? Is this correct and is it a problem to repair?
Sorry, should have explained that better. The seal I'm referring to is inside the starter, just behind the pinion. These starters are easy to take apart, or you could take it to a starter repair shop. They usually stock these seals either way you fix it. Phil
Thanks Phil I found the post from melben "To keep the differential shaft on center while working on the opposite side I tighten the adjustment on the opposite side so the brake not worked on is applied , this centers the brake in the housing holding the shaft up in position. Also electrical tape wrapped on the splines and wrapping a few extra turns next to the area where the seal must expand works as well as anything, better in my opinion than the factory supplied sleeves. Been working on Case since 1962 full time so i've seen a few things." I will see how far i can get tomorrow.
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums CaptDave! :drinkup
I got the diff lock off. It was easy once I had removed the blind bolt that phil told me about. I also got the brake housing off. I need to order the seal and the o-ring to fix the seal. I haven't seen the ball that is supposed to be in there. Will it fall out? where do I look for it. I also noticed that the lugnuts are on the wrong way. The crown part that is supposed to center the wheel is facing out. So i reversed those today as well. So right now the list to do is Fix the seal and bushing in the starter Fix the electrical system Fix the intake heater Fix the tachometer Fix the brakes Fix the linkages, brakes and diff lock Replace the filters Oil, Air, Hydraulic, Transmission, P fuel, S fuel, Rower steering (where is this filter located) Replace pins Reroute hoses Replace rear tires Replace lugs on the front tires Fix seals on two cylinders the dipper and the boom That is the list I have found so far I will post as it goes. I love a project and I have a really big one.
Thanks for the Welcome and the beer Cowboy.
I'm not sure about the ball you are talking about, unless it's the 4 balls that are inside the drum assembly. I have used a small slotted screwdriver to unhook the 2 springs holding the assembly together, also the same to reassemble it. I think I have one of these apart, as a spare, if you want a picture. I would replace both seals, in other words, reseal both sides, while you are at it. The power steering filter is inside the reservoir. Remove the nut on the rear of the reservoir cover, to pull off. Replace the seal also, and put the cover back on with the same orientation. Note: The shuttle/converter housing has 2 drain plugs. Phil http://www.brokentractor.com/images/case-brake-pack-assy 001.jpg
I got the brake drum apart. I am going to clean them tomorrow and order the seals. Then I can reassemble the brakes and can check that off the list. I am now waiting on parts, it might be a day or two.
Been out for a while Sorry I have not been on to help guys. I just had a second hernia repair and am just now getting back on my feet. I will try to catch up and answer the PM's as quick as possible. Sounds like Phill has been very helpfull. I will try to get back to answering as much as I can as quick as I can. Elast:canada
Welcome back to the forum Elast:drinkup. Phil:canada
Phil, do you have a model number for your Sims cab? Just what the Dr. ordered for snow removal after install of Princess Auto heater.
I tried to add a pic of my backhoe but couldn't get it to work.
Check out the second red link in my signature for help with posting pictures.
pics Well lets see if this works. Maybe later, it was too big. Geez never heard that before.
I got the brake parts and the service manual. Now just to get the time to put it all together. I will post again when it is completed.
But we got heavy equipment.
any pics yet?
Keep trying CaptDave. Does it look like this one? Phil:canada
I'll take this opportunity to make my first post. I recently purchased my first hoe also...also a 580BCK.
Phil. That's the one, except yours has nicer tires. I spent 8 hours outside this week sraping 40 years worth of crap off it. Glad it stayed below freezing to keep the mud down. I have a mobile powerwash coming to blast it before I take the head off. Sure would be nice if there was water in the barn though. Looking forward to it firing up.
re-sizing pics We have a photo buff guy at work, I will ask his help tonight. Have another 12 hours to go so might as well try. :Banghead
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums yasmar! :drinkup
Welcome Yasmar to the forum:drinkup CaptDave, I do not have good computer skills but my son showed me how to crop it in Paint, especially the width of the picture, and it works for me. Phil
Thanks for the welcome! What a wealth of information you have here. I'm getting to the point that I don't buy anything until I look to see if there's a forum for it. :notworthy
Can someone tell be the best and safest way to take a model 35 backhoe off of a 580b. I am trying to replace the cross bar on my 580b and the rod can not travel far enough to clear the bottom support for the backhoe. I see there is a bolt at the front of the support and looks like 2 or four at the axle. I was thinking about dropping the hoe on the ground, stretching it out as far as i could and then jacking it up while i remove the right support. Is this correct. I only need to remove one or will that cause problems. let me know what you guys think thanks
I found the proper instructions fro removing the backhoe from the machine. I am going to take this route and then remove the support to get the brake rod out. Removing the backhoe looks like it won't be too bad of a job. I will let you know how it goes.
I got the backhoe off the machine. It was pretty easy. I have to get the lower support bracket off to get the cross shaft off of the machine. I see how the frame bolts to the rear axle, and the lower support bolts to the rear axle with 4 bolts and one in the front. I can't get the top right bolt out of the housing, the one that goes in the ROPS, closest to the tire. I got the nut off but the bolt won't budge. i have the bottom two bolts out. After I get the lower support off then I can get the brake cross shaft off and put the brake system together, the lower supports and then the backhoe. then that project is done. Then the list goes on from there. Right now i am looking for a used tire and wheel also for the rear of the machine.
I wanted to edit my last post but I can't find that for some reason. Just a list to add So right now the list to do is Fix the seal and bushing in the starter got the parts Fix the electrical system have most of the parts Fix the intake heater got the parts Fix the tachometer got the parts Fix the brakes working on it Fix the linkages, brakes and diff lock working on it Replace the filters Oil, Air, Hydraulic, Transmission, P fuel, S fuel, Power steering Got most of the parts Replace pins got most of the parts Reroute hoses no progress Replace rear tires Need rear 17.5l-24 tire and wheel Replace lugs on the front tires done Fix seals on two cylinders the dipper and the boom No progress Just adding some color and updates on the progress. The red items are the ones that i haven't address yet. Wengers has a wheel, but no tires.
Cool Post, I like what you are doing here. Let me know if you get stuck on anything. Elast
Thanks, Phil has been a great help. I had to take alot apart to replace the brake cross shaft. I can see why it was ever done before. I am going to replace the oil seals on both sides and also the seals and bushing on the center shaft for the differential lock on the right side. I really don't want brake problems in the future.
You need special tools to do as you are suggesting with the seals but........I have a little trick for you: 1: Remove the diffside plates to remove and install the new seals 2: Do one side at a time so the shaft is supported and the diff assy is not flopping around potentially damaging the new seals. 3: Once you have installed the new seals and are ready to put plate back on, wrap black electrical tape around splines and groove in side gear. This will stop seal lip from being caught and flipped out(resulting in oil on the brakes) Start wrapping the tape from the inside out, make sure it is wrapped tight and work your way out to fully cover the splines 4: Grease seal lip and tape 5: Carefully slide the side plate into position and install countersunk screw. Install 4 temporary bolts (or nuts and washers if applicable) where bolts for brake housing go to hold plate in position untill such time that the brakes are reinstalled. 6: Remove tape, plate is installed and seal is not damaged. I have used this trick many times without fail on the road. The diff lock seals are a little trickier and can be installed using a 1/2 drive deep socket. If you have two(2) seals be carefull putting the second one in as you can install it too deep and damage the first one. If you take your time and use lots of heavy grease on the splines of carrier shaft you can install side gear onto shaft witout damaging seals. FYI, there is a shim between the diff side gear and the diff carrier. Do not lose or damage this. Make sure it is reinstalled upon assembly. Hope this helps...........Elast
Thanks
Hi, Just joined the forum so I am posting here. The original post questioned the spindle bearing(s). I am rebuilding both front spindles on a 580CK. The thrust bearing washers have a chamfer on one inside edge. Looking closely at the sectional view in my manual it appears to me the chamfers are towards the thrust bearing ( and this makes sense to me ). However the parts guy at the CASE dealership says the chamfers are away from the thrust bearing. Which is correct? Look here for a few pictures of what I have found... http://www.polydevelopment.com/pd_misc/580/index_580.html Pat
Welcome to the forums
tresslers, I have had very good luck getting used tires at the tire store. I let the guys know I am looking and check in every week or so. I got a "new" set of 4 that was much better than what was on there for about $250. These are tires for a backhoe and this included good used fronts for the 4wd. They said a lot of operators change at 50% so they don't have any downtime. I don't make a living with my hoe, so that's just fine with me. good luck
I have a "junkyard fix" if the axle housing is damaged. As long as you only use the machine a little you can forgo machining the axle ends or getting a new axle. Just go to local hardware store and but some ABS plumbing pipe and use it as the bearings making sure to drill out the grease hole and using a small die grinder (dremmel tool) carve a small twisting groove, like a drill bit has, from top to bottom to allow the grease to disperse along the length of the ABS. It will work very well for years. I have done this many times for these old machines and it works like a charm. I was suprised myself the first time I did this that it worked so well. I still have customers after 10 years that are still using their tractor this way without failure. Just keep it well greased. If you put the new needle bearings in a bad bore they will destroy themselves very quickly and you will be back in the same boat again. You stilll need the thrust bearing and washers but you do not need the needle bearings. Good luck.........Elast
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums pjr pdco! :drinkup
Excellent work Elast. This is a good example of a mechanic willing to try an idea instead of just saying "you need a new _ ". I was working on my old 430 yesterday. I noticed a loose carrier shaft when working on the brakes. These had the fiber washer under the side gear. I found one completely missing and the other was worn, so I used updated thrust washers and set it up as best I could. Anyway I wanted to post a picture of the side gear with the seal(s) in it. We should have a sticky on Case brake replacement. What do you think guys? Phil
Wanted to post some more brake pictures. You can see the one brake assembly in the background is oil soaked. Pictures not as clear as I wanted but they might help someone see what they are getting into. Phil Can you spot the dead yellow jacket?
Those are the same brakes that i am working on. I have taken a little time off from machine repair because i twisted my ankle. Do you have to take the top plate off to fix the seals on the diff lock? I think that is the picture from the top down in the second picture?
Tressler, the second picture in post #87 is looking down into the bevel gear compartment. You shouldn't have to go there just for brake work. I took the cover off, pulled the axles back, and took the final drive gears out, to get both my carrier sidegears out. I can't remember if the right sidegear(1st picture, post #87), will slide out with the final drive gear intact. I think it will, just follow Elast's instructions. Phil
I finally got the oil seals replaced this weekend. I had to pull the top plate off and pull the axles and the final drive gears to get the diff lock seals replaced. The job wasn't too bad. I used alot of grease on the seals and they look good. I have the brake housing bolted back on. I broke 2 bolts in the case while removing the top cover. I am going to try and weld a nut to the stub that is sticking out and unbolt it. I also had the seat spring fly out at me. The two nuts that hold that plates together were missing. I have to figure out a way to fix that middle plate for studs. I just have to bolt everything back together and continue on the list. This next thing will be the starter which i am thinking will be easy.
Back to the list So right now the list to do is Fix the seal and bushing in the starter got the parts Fix the electrical system have most of the parts Fix the intake heater got the parts Fix the tachometer got the parts Fix the brakes completed Fix the linkages, brakes and diff lock working on it Replace the filters Oil, Air, Hydraulic, Transmission, P fuel, S fuel, Power steering Got the parts Replace pins got the parts Reroute hoses no progress Replace rear tires Need rear 17.5l-24 tire and wheel got the parts Replace lugs on the front tires done Fix seals on two cylinders the dipper and the boom No progress Reassemble machine, fix seat, and removed broken bolts from housing working on it Now to get the Yellows to blues then work on the reds later
I wish I had started a list. It sure would have made more sense. I just bought a new suspension seat on sale for $79.00, the two rubber springs were more than that. Generator is off being rebuilt. Hopefully tomorrow the head comes off to replace the gasket and see what elese is wrong. You are doing a great job wittling down the list. Dave
I find that it helps to make a list. Make it as long as it needs to be. At least you have a direction to start and you remember what else needs to be done. I hope to get more time to work on the machine. Right now it is the free time on the weekends.
I will start one, first is to see if it will start and then go from there. I bought it not running, he said the head gasket blew when the fan belt broke. We will see, so far I have come across tons of neglect. I am praying that it isn't seized.
Not sure if this has been posted before, but here's an interesting video on splitting a 580 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBOBMY5NiQQ
580 Case U have a great machine there ..i had a 680 first and found it too large for me. When you apply the diferential lock make sure the rear wheels are not spinning or there goes some teeth.....Best of luck ------- Ruxel
I have dial-up so I it takes a long time for U-tube . Capt Dave, let us know how the engine looks with the cylinder head off. They were a pretty tough cylinder head. Remember to check the liner height. I took the head off my 430 and found the early block had been bored for the large flange liners . The early liners are still available with A & I but the head gaskets, with separate fire-rings, to match these liners are not. I've seen the later head gasket on the early liners but it's borderline I think. Phil
I still want to see pictures...
I will take some more pics today and get a guy at work to re-size this weekend for me so I can post. Silly truck wash guy showed up the other day at 11:30. I told him the day before he has to come first thing in the morning while the frost is in the ground. He was going to try and take 4000 gallons of water around the barn. I told him I wouldn't pay to have it towed out. Glad he listened. :Banghead
I finally got the head off. It doesnt' look to bad, no scoring on the cylinder walls. Sure glad my daughter came with me or it would still be on. Looking for a machine shop to test it. I took it to one and they wanted $700.00 to see if it was warped. No pics, was so happy to finally get the head off we came straight home after getting stuck in the mud, twice. Man I can't wait for all the frost to come out. Maybe I shouldn't have taken off the snow tires.
If the head gasket shows no signs of leakage around the 'fire ring', then that's a good sign. Should be shiny all around where it contacts the liner flange, any black areas indicates leakage. Even a good straightedge can be used to check across the head for warping. Are you sure your 430 doesn't have the older injectors that use 2 nuts to hold them down? If it has the pencil injectors, the head may have been updated. $700 seems like a valve grind/magnaflux job and I would think that would include 8 new valves for that price. Phil
Phil The injectors are held in with two 9/16 nuts. My buddy is a fire dept mechanic and he is taking it to their machine shop. I was going to use a straight edge, Earl said the shop doesnt charge much for their personal stuff. Now to find a local guy to check the injectors. Sure wish I new more about diesels.
Okay, I was thinking you had the pencil type which can be a real pain to get out. The older type are great, I had a set on my Ford and I got nozzles for about $15 each, screwed them on and they worked like new. I got one of those homemade bottle jack testers . How does your head gasket look? Is she getting a new thermostat? I've been using the Napa 33008S. Phil
Hard to say about the head gasket, it came out in pieces. Yes a new thermostat from Case. Harper Detroit is checking the head for me, as a courtesy. Steve's Diesel in Bowmanville has the injectors. What is a bottle jack testor? I am sure once this is back together I shouldn't have to take the injectors out. I am using the machine on some property I have. Putting in a culvert and raking the driveway must have been too small a job for the local guys as they never showed up.
Yep! I agree, good research helps for anything!
Update on the list Fix the seal and bushing in the starter got the parts Fix the electrical system have most of the parts Fix the intake heater got the parts Fix the tachometer got the parts Fix the brakes fixed Fix the linkages, brakes and diff lock fixed Replace the filters Oil, Hydraulic done Replace the filters Air, Transmission, P fuel, S fuel, Power steering Got the parts Replace pins got most of the parts Reroute hoses no progress Replace rear tires done Replace lugs on the front tires done Fix seals on two cylinders the dipper and the boom No progress Most of the work is electrical and filters so that shouldn't be too bad it is just the time to get the work done, I still have hydraulic work to do . I might take the cylinder to a hydraulic shop and have them repack it. Does this sound like a good idea?
Looking good! Looks like you're bout on the home stretch there tresslers. Hope it goes well. I got an old for B/H I'm trying to get sorted out and it's a booger. Good luck hope to hear more.
I got the cylinder head back yesterday. I have all the gaskets, now I need a few nice days to put it all together. I bought new hoses for the outriggers, took in an old one and said I needed 4 just like this one. It wasn't until I got home a few days later and realized one fitting on each of them is wrong. Always something.
Glad it's coming together Captdave. I hate it when the parts guy does that seems like it happens more and more these days. Thanks for the update, I enjoy seeing and reading about your progress.
580b You'll love your 580B, I bought one 15 years ago, just bought a 555 dozer, leaking gas tank, needs pin in blade, already bought for less than $200, thing cost 4,500 Rancher
I got around to working on the starter this last weekend. I found out why it leaked oil. The starter that is currently on the machine was put on from a dry clutch machine. It does not have the provisions for oil seals like the power shuttle one does. So the best i could do was to clean it up and put it back on. Anyone have any suggestions? I got most of the electrical repaired, the tachometer, and the intake heater. So the next thing is for the hydraulic cylinder repair. I am going to drop them off at a hydraulic shop and tell them to call when finished. That ony leaves the pins to fight with. Seems like dry ice is the best way to install them. ok I am out.
A good starter shop should be able to install a seal for you. Not sure if your armature is compatible for that but I know they change the round plate and install one with a seal in it. Phil
Hello.New member here.
I have a 580b and questions
I have been reading this thread and I am sure that you guys can answer my questions.I am a member of a couple or car forums,but this is my first equipment forum.I tried to do the 3 post thing so as to start a new post and not sidetrack this one.I will be making a new post when I am permitted.I can work on cars,but I don't know alot about how some of the things work on equipment.I just don't have any experience with it.I can do the work whenever you guys that have worked on these things and know all the ins and outs get me lined out.Thanks in advance for all the questions I am going to have.
Welcome to the forum highpockets . 580B's are pretty popular here; we will try and answer your questions. Phil:canada
I am even getting half decent with the machines, I still have questions at times
Update on the list, It's been a little while since my last post and I have gotten a few things accomplished since then. Fix the seal and bushing in the starter can't fix It's the wrong starter for the machine, not going to be a simple fix. I need to get a wet starter. Fix the electrical system done Fix the intake heater done Fix the tachometer done Fix the brakes done Fix the linkages, brakes and diff lock done Replace the filters Oil, Hydraulic done Replace the filters Air, Transmission, P fuel, S fuel, Power steering done Replace pins / bushings got all of the parts Reroute hoses started Replace rear tires done Replace lugs on the front tires done Fix seals on two cylinders the dipper and the boom got the tools I need to get them apart to see what type of a kit I need.
pictures?
Well I tried to put the cylinder head on yesterday, it keeps catching on the water jacket gasket. I sure don't want to remove the timing cover to get it on. Replaced a bunch of hydraulic hose. Maybe later today the head will go on. I will take my daughter to help make sure I miss the gasket. It is hard to do standing on the frame with my ass in the air not being able to see. Tressler it sounds like you are almost done.
I just need to get the time to finish. My first job would be to rebuild the three cylinders on the backhoe. The two on the hoe and the one on the dipper.
CaptDave, I had a 530 once and I remember that water jacket gasket. Seems to me I drove a couple of screwdrivers in between the block and that casting to spread it slightly. A few thou is enough, to slide that gasket in from the side and then use a small tapered punch to line up the holes. I did this after the head was sitting down on the dowels. If you use gasket sealer it adds a little drag. Phil
Thanks Phil. I am going to try one more time. I have already used sealant to hold the gasket in place. Have to buy another one and give your way a shot. Dave
Really interesting thread, new member, new old backhoe owner, learning alot. Look's like alot of support for question's. I'll keep lurking until I can post a thread with my question's. But learning a bit through these threads.
Phil, Is there some special type of coolant the these engines require? I heard something about there is an addititive that prevent cavitation on the cylinder walls. do you know what i am talking about?
I've seen cavitation damage, worse on some engines that others. I believe it is caused by vibration of the liner, but electrolysis can cause it too I think. I'm not sure if the coolant type makes a difference. I use the green stuff, and find that usually the liner will live it's life out before the hole(s) get to it. Something like prostrate cancer . I recall that an oxygen scavenger( probably used in outdoor wood furnaces, or water boilers) helped this problem but I'm not sure.I copied this info from some saved text I have on the topic. Phil " Best way to prevent it taking out wet sleeves: Make sure the engine is properly grounded to the frame. Regular maintenance of the coolant system, change the coolant around every 3 years, checking for ph, additives to maintain the protective coatings around the sleeves."
Well I got the head on. While torqueing the last bolt would'nt you know it, it stripped the threads out of the block. After I was done cursing, almost crying, I had a couple beers put the tools away and went home. Damn I hate working in a field. Found a product called FullTorque which is a fancier stronger HeliCoil that is supposed to work really well. The Ontario distributor is only 3 hours away so a road trip is in order this week. I will keep you posted how this turns out.
Hi... Hello to all...this is my very first reply i just wana say: 1st sorry my bad english... 2nd great forum... 3rd great thread... Great work... keep going... and finnaly, tresslers good job.... can you post new pics of your brand new old "ride"...:notworthy Thanks Rafael
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums rafasimoes! :drinkup
Thanks :drinkup
I just got my first hoe too, it's a 580b. I'll be interested in following your progress with yours. That's a real bummer with the head bolt. Something like that can just push you over the edge..just gotta walk away and come back later.
Yes it sure does. I bought a kit called Full Torque but don't have the room to enlarge the hole. Bought some Devcon Titanium putty to try. My only setback now is it has rained everyday since. I don't want to uncover the old girl and let the rain was some of the rust off. Son is getting married in two weeks so she has to wait her turn.
Which stud hole is it Captdave? What is it too close too? Phil
This thread is perfect, i'm looking at a 76 580B Construction king right now, it is in really decent shape with 6000 hours on it. I'll post some pics of it later. Does anyone know the weight of the 580B?
And i would also like to know what the width of the machine is.
The weight of the machine depends on what it is equipped with. Gas or diesel? Shuttle or dry clutch or hydrostatic. Full cab or open rops.
Phil It was the centre rear one. Sorry I haven't been around for a bit, busy at work and my son got married. Had a great wedding in St. Marten MB about 3 hours north of Winnipeg in the middle of nowhere. If you miss the gas station the next on is 5 1/2 hours away. I won't be working on the machine for a bit. Bear hunting this week and off to cut my Uncles winter supply of firewood. He put his 45,000 litre tanker in the ditch and has a hard time moving around. I will keep you posted on my progress. So much for having it done by June, good thing I didn't say what year.
Hey Folks, wanted to say Hi! I'm looking at a Case 680 backhoe to work around the house and fix the driveway. It runs pretty good :drinkup It does not have very good brakes :Banghead and I live on a rocky hillside. The hoe drops down as well while running maybe an 1" every couple minutes. Its banged up and shows its age but looks like I could do some roadwork with her. I'll throw up a pic if possible. I'd like to thank all the contributers to this thread as I feel ive learned something about Case in a short time here, thanks alot!
Thanks anyways but i found the specs on the net
I just bought a old JD 410b. I'll post pics after I get my three posts.
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums rockdog! :drinkup
580B maybe? Hi guys, I just bought what I think is a 580B , a diesel with a mechanical shuttle and a high /low range shift coming out of the right side of the dash board column. but not sure of the year. I am new to these machines and would appreciate any help. It has the same type of grill and controls as the pictures in this thread but with no ROPS or cab. Has round fenders and the only serial number plate is on the backhoe unit, which is a model 32. Would the serial number for the hoe be the same as that for the machine but with a different prefix? Also the transmission case has the cluster diagram in the familiar H pattern with reverse down and to the left, but has a position above the R for reverse that is marked what I think is an 'S'.. what does this mean ? When I put the gear shift in this position nothing happens. I have a couple of leaking cylinders at the point where the rod leaves the cylinder, and noted where Elast said it is possible to remove the pin from the rod end,remove the gland nut , and then roll a new o"ring over the end. Would the o'ring go over the rod end and then the gland nut ? Or do you take out the rod out of the end of the cylinder to put it in place? Lots of great info in this thread and I look forward getting theold girl back in shape. Thanks.
Power shuttle problem? Hello , I am new to the forum and new to these machines. I have found out that, unlike my original assessment, I seem to have a power shuttle machine . In cleaning up the dash instruments, I found two gages , one that reads clutch pressure and the other Torque converter temp. The clutch pedal goes into what appears to be a hydraulic control on top of the trans case. My original impression was that it was mechanical was due to feeli9ng I needed to put the clutch pedal in to shift the shuttle. I tried Elast's instruction to put the machine in High range,high gear, and machine did not notice ,let alone stall. Sounds bad? Seems to run ok in low /low. Dip stick on forward part of case reads low . What fluid should be used in torque converter section? Thanks for any help you can give.
I don't know any thing about your machine , but I know I have never been able to fix a hyd cylinder without taking it apart completly .. but I have never worked on a case , just some internationals and masseys , also on those machines all the fluid is the same from torqe converter to the rear end .. maybe the "s " you saw stands for shuttle ??
year for 580B? hi, This will give me my third posting on this forum.. I continue to be a little bewildered by the full range of choices of drivetrain in these old case machines. I noticed the picture posted by Phil in this thread, and it is the spitting image of the machine I recently bought, down to the round fenders and lack of any sort of cab. What is the vintage of ths machine Phil? I spoke to the nearest case dealer we have around here, Western Mass., and he thought my machine was probably one with a torque canverter with a mechanical shuttle , given the presence of the Hi/Lo range shift on it. He advised on the fluids to use in my case and how to check it out when running , but no advice on what to do if it was slipping ,(in terms of improving performance).
This is a great thread!! Hi I am Bob I bought a 580b a few months ago and it has been sitting for a while so it needed lots of work. I have changed all the fluids and filters. I have gone over the hydraulics and had 7 cylinders resealed, lots of hoses replaced. I have fixed all the electrical I could except the brake lights. The previous owner did not do much maintenance and the water was not drained from the fuel tank. I had cleaned the trap of some goo and changed the valve. Then after running it for just over a 1/2 hour I found the water trap in the fuel tank was leaking. I guess that the goo was holding it together so I removed the tank ( by removing the spreader rod) and am getting it fixed. I managed to get a paper operators manual and a CD service manual. It has been very satisfying working on it and getting it fixed up I am looking forward to taking it up to my acreage in 100 Mile House B.C. to clear stumps and rocks. It is great to see that others are still working and buying these machines. Bob
100mile Bob, good to hear you like your B. While not the easiest machine to work on, I'm growing fond of mine, although I have it for sale . I've heard that the 530/ 580CK and the 580B CK, really helped push Case into the backhoe business. The owner's manual has a surprising amount of info in it, great that you have both manuals. I had a Ford 550 hoe here once. I like the Ford also but it was useless in the snow, compared to the 580B. These machines are not losing in value, rather gaining I think. Do send a picture of your B in the B.C. bush with the pines and cedar in the background. Phil
Phil I will post some pics when I do get it up in the B.C. bush right now it is down on the coast near Vancouver. I had bought the sevice manual on CD but it only has 600 or so pages I see that the case service manual has over 1100 kind of feel like I missing some important stuff How much are you selling your b for? Bob
I'm asking $10K for my B. Not sure what to tell you about you CD.
Hi another noob here. I just bought a 580B that needs a ring gear in the diff. I will be changing that in a couple of weeks. I am going to use it on our proptery for clearing trees, septic tank install, and eventualy house foundation. We have 40 acers in NE PA and about 33 are wooded that need thinning out. I hope this machine is ok, but will find out when the ring gear is done. Engine (diesel) runs fine, I replaced on hose on the hoe, and figure it must have lots of power to be able to bust up the gear. I will update when I get back up there and play with it some more. I love the site. Lots of good information on here. Jody
Howdy. I'm new to the forum; thought I'd join in on this thread and say thanks. There is so much good info here and I enjoy hearing what yawl have to say. I'm looking to purchase my first backhoe soon. I'll be using it to knock down some trees, rearrange some boulders, and dig some footings. I probably post later with some questions about one I looked at today.
Welcome to the forum Gerferd and Elcactus. Phil
Hey again. Guys I just looked at a JCB 1550 at one of the local dealers. Probably an early 90s model. Ran it for a little while but I've very very limited experience with heavy machinery. Could I get some input please on a couple of things I noticed. 1) How much play in the main pivot pin of the backhoe is too much? It' s got a little (guessing 1/32") play. 2) Its got a leak at one of the cylinders on the hoe I am not too worried about redoing the gland seals, but should I be? (There doesn't appear to be any nicks to the ram at the spot where the leak is) 3) All pins do seem good except for the hoe bucket's Are the pins and bushings typically pricey? 4) The starter ground when starting it the first time The battery was dead when I got there so they put an automotive battery in it to get it cranked (they had to use starting fluid also). While turning over it sounded like the starter bendix kicked back out OR hit a spot on the fly wheel that was chipped. The starter does appear to have been replaced recently. I tried cranking it with the fuel shut off after it was warm but could not duplicate the grinding. Could that little battery just be causing the starter to loose its bite that one time? Thanks for any help. I will stop hijacking other's posts as soon as I get my required 3 posts in. Have a good un
hi there as this is my third post i will soon be in dire need of some answers on my 580 . i have found a ton of answers that really tell me whether i have a converter or shuttle problem keep up the good work you guys are awesome sam
tag for future reference.
Same here tag for more reading and get back to this thread. Gawd so much to learn.
The first backhoe our farm bought wa a 580B diesel with a cab and shuttle shift. It also had an extend-a-hoe on it. I haven't seen any other B's with an extend a hoe. It was a nice little machine but to heavy on the back end.
Floor Board Hi guys, still can not start a new thread - so I thought I would jump on this one, sorry. Alot of good information here. I have this 1973 Case 580B (shuttle shift), overall it seems in good shape - just needs some TLC. One item that has me in the dark is the foot accelerator location. I'm missing the right front floor board and I'm trying to make a replacement (since I haven't been able to find a used one). If anyone can post a picture of the top view and underneath view it would be greatly appreciated. I have the flat bar that goes underneath the floor board, but I do not know its' proper position for attaching to the underside of the floorboard. Thanks for any information or photos that you may have to help.
Hi Phil, I've got a 580B question for you......the oil in the flywheel housing - does it come from the shuttle shift converter housing?? The reason I ask is that I changed the oil in the "shuttle shift housing", there is a drain plug at the flywheel - had about 2 quarts of oil, then I moved back to the "shuttle shift housing" and removed the next drain plug and that had about 12 quarts of oil. I added the new oil at the torque dipstick (just in front of the 4 speed shifter)......but I did not see a way to add oil to the flywheel housing.....??? But there was only 2 qts in the housing.....does this oil come from the torque housing??? Any thoughts on why the torque oil will foam....I have the right oil in it......and it seems to working very well.....I just changed the oil because of the foaming. Thanks for the help.
Welcome War Eagle, Phil has not posted here for quite some time & his interest & knowlege of 580B's is surely missed. The only 580B's I have worked on have a dry bellhousing & I am guessing someone has fitted a plug to your bellhousing to 'stop' the oil leak that yours has ..... Foaming oil is usually caused by contaminated or incorrect oil or pump cavitation (sucking air) More of Phil's helpful posts - HeavyEquipmentForums Just use the search feature & you will find priceless information - happy reading
War Egle do you have the hyd. shuttle or mech. shuttle they came both ways ?
Thanks for the help alrman......that link is outstanding.....alot of help form alot of folks.
Shopguy, it is the hydraulic shuttle.....I'm thinking that the remaining oil may have been in the "converter" itself, lines etc. Do you think you may have a good picture of the accelerator & floor board (upper and lower??)?? Thanks for any help to all.