My NH 575E has always started draggy. It generally starts okay in the summer but has always had to be jumped off in the winter. Winters aren't that bad here. Even in summer it spins slow but usually starts. I have replaced the alternator and starter in the recent past and as far as I can tell neither those or the cables are my problem. When I first got it I replaced the cable ends with tinned brass solder on ends. My tractor came with a single battery vs the dual setup. I think I have a 850 CCA battery in it. Factory specs call for 960 cold cranking amps. I can jump it off with my truck and it seems to start fine so I'm pretty sure if I convert to dual batteries it would solve my troubles. I would rather get by with a single battery with a higher amp rating if I can. O'Reily auto parts has a 31-950 that will fit in the space and is rated at 950 cold cranking amps. I haven't found ANY single battery that will fit in the space and produce over 950 cold cranking amps. Their battery does have a flat vent header so I assume it has a place for a vent tube. I have never liked having a battery in front of the radiator. At least with a vent tube I can vent it out under the tractor. Any other arrangement would require some fabrication work. Having two batteries stacked in front of the oil cooler, AC condenser, and radiator would not be ideal IMO. My John Deere 4310 has the battery in front of the radiator and they were known for having radiator corrosion issues from the original batteries. I replaced mine with a Bosch AGM battery with a vent tube and ran the tube under the tractor. Part of me wants to consider fabricating a dual battery box in front of the oil tank to relocate and add a second battery. The other more sensible part of me wants to drop a single battery where the existing battery is and see if I can get by with it. I would hate to take the simple path and end up having to jump start the tractor come winter time. Anybody getting by through the colder months with a single 950 CCA battery?
I wonder if the starter brushes need attention? Maybe a rebuilt starter along with new cables could help you out? You could also toy with the idea of in series versus in parallel battery arrangements. I doubt this new of unit used higher voltage on starting circuits, but I am not overly well versed in this area.
Starter was replaced with new. Made no difference. Fact that it spins normal with a jump indicates it just needs more cranking amps. I would not consider hooking up two batteries in series.
If the battery is fully charged should spin the same as when jumped. Cleaning the battery terminals and cable connections could help. Have run into this before. Also check the ground cable to frame connection for corrosion.
950 cca should do it in my book. I've had a single battery in my 310e for two years and no problem.
I guess I will go with the single 950CCA and if I need more I can always add another. O'Reilly said if it doesn't spin it out of the box I can return it. If I were to relocate and install two I could go with two less expensive batteries with better warranties. Most of the 31-950 series only have a one year warranty but the O'Reilly one is 18 months. If I went with two 65 series they would have 750CCA each and a 2 year warranty for $50 less per battery.
i have a small gel battery in my 555e.(i can get cca when im out of feild but i think its 950 or under). mine will start in -30c canadian winters no problem. i do usually plug it in gor 2 hours when its that cold tho.
Since it spins faster when you jump it I would suggest a good cleaning of the battery posts and cable ends. You could try disconnecting one of the battery cables and put the jumper cables on and see if it spins faster with only the jumper battery. I bought a 1000 CCA battery at Advanced Auto and eliminated the two 6 volt setup that was OEM in my tractor. It spins just fine in freezing weather.
NH575E, I purchased 2 of the batteries below (my tractor had the 2-battery setup from the factory). I purchased them with discount codes for around $100 each. They are 950CCA. The battery is a 31T, and has a 1 year replacement if defective. You may have to make up new ends when using this battery, although they do make an adapter that threads on and is a regular lead terminal. I just made new cables up with a 3/8" eye and purchased the nuts below. The reviews on the battery are good. I like these style batteries and have installed many in trucks over the years. I would put one of these in for sure. I would also check all connections, and make sure the negative shutoff switch is not causing resistance. I cannot believe that it gets that cold in Florida that you would need the extra amps. I on the other hand see temps at or around 0 and am glad to have the extra amps. If you decide on 2 batteries, and want to put them in the stock location (I do understand you are not hip to it), let me know. I will be in my place in PA this weekend, and will take all the pics you want or need. I will also provide any measurement you want. I included one image of the upper battery installed. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...attery-group-size-31t-950-cca-31s30/2100096-P https://www.zoro.com/grote-hardware-fastener-38-16-pk2-82-9184/i/G3236816/
I cannot answer exactly on your 575 but I have used a IHC 1066 and Case 680 to feed cows in the winter. I put over sized batteries in both of them. While over spec the tractor could be parked for a month. Then when it is freezing rain they suddenly ate all the hay that has been there for a month. Some extra money on batteries was cheep to me. Always tried to plain better than that but damn chasing jumper cables in the freezing rain. I thank the high amps cuts down on starter and cable problems as well.
If you use 2 batteries find a shop that has the proper crimper to make up the dual battery cables. Is way better than jerry rigging a bunch of standard cables. A heavy equipment dealer should have the crimper and ends for it. One cable with battery connections for 2 batteries is one advantage. Lower cranking amps for the same group of battery is better than higher cranking amps because the plates are thicker and wider spaced so there is less chance of sulfation.
One 750 CCA fleet battery should start great down to freezing, and probably colder. Like Dave said, that one battery will last longer than a 950 CCA battery of the same size. You might get more life out of a pair of 750 than a single, but not anywhere near double. How old is your current battery? sometimes you hear about new oem batteries lasting over ten years, but anything that's over five and weak, replace it, or swap to a smaller vehicle.
I've got a reconditioned battery in my diesel tractor that has to be 12 or 13 years since I bought it and no signs of failing. Tractor has a generator instead of an alternator and I wonder if the lower charging rate contributes to longer battery life? I had a reconditioned 8D battery in the Cat from the same place that lasted about 10 years. I put another reconditioned 8D in about 5 years ago and it's still going strong. Best money I ever spent.
I had two batteries in my backhoe, and had starting problems. To the starter to a rebuild shop they tested it said it was fine. I had new batteries and still would not spin it over to start. I finally found that one of the factory cables was almost broken in to about two inches from the crimp.
Cable voltage drop due to corrosion or damage internally does exactly as described, replaced the main Pos. Lead to the starter on my Allis mainly due to multiple sheath cracks and gained DRAMATIC speed on cranking. old cable once replaced skinned it off where was loaded with corrosion in several spots.
I might have to dig into my 310A starter cable then. It has a fresh starter (2019) and 2 fresh batteries (2020) and has always cranked fairly slow compared to other equipment I've run. The cable ends are factory (or professionally remade) and look great with no corrosion, but I'm wondering if I don't have an internal corrosion issue causing issues. I'll look into it before winter
Weak grounds are also problematic Most machines batteries ground to chassis then engine gets a ground strap/cable to chassis. Multiple connections lack of maintenance many out of sight out of mind.
Connect a voltmeter across the ground path and across the positive path Then disable the run solenoid and crank the engine each side Do the same reading voltage across batteries as crank and at starter lug to ground as crank. Voltage is pressure amps is work, reading a volt or tenths of volts across a ground or positive cable is not too bad reading a high volt (2.5 or more)across a cable or path is bad. If reads battery during crank has next to no path.
2 batteries will not fix the issue. You are compensating for a ground/positive cable or terminal end fault by using the jumper cables. If you see green corrosion at ANY terminal crimp, replace the cable. That green is alot deeper in the cable than you can see and it eats amps.
I had triple checked everything that has been suggested prior to posting. My question was if anyone was using a single battery in the cold without problems. Sounds like a single battery of high enough CCA rating should work. Since these tractors had a dual parallel battery option from the factory I thought maybe that was the path to take. I will follow up with what I install and my results. Thanks for all the response.
I am. As I posted earlier I deleted one of two and installed a single one with a much higher CCA.
im just useing a single deep cycle battery in my 555e NH575e.....ill get you the cca this weekend when im out of the feild.
Yes, I have used one battery to start most diesels down to freezing, and sometimes close to zero without plugging in, up to 6 liter 6cyl. Usually plugged in below freezing, but not always. Some start better than others. You don't need approval from everybody here to buy a new battery, there's plenty of cases that come along where somebody replaces "everything" and it still doesn't start well, you still have the battery it came with. plenty of batteries get weak all the time.
I think more batteries can mean more connections and more potential for problems.
I think my problem is two fold. As convinced as I was that my cables were okay I unsoldered the positive end I installed a few years ago and it didn't look good inside the solder joint. I don't understand why it passed current any better with a clamp on it other than it was just multiplying the cranking amps supplied by the second battery. At any rate new cables or at least ends are in my future fix. I went by the welding shop today to get new cables made. 2/0 is the largest cable he had and all his lugs had 1/2" holes. The stock cables are 2/0 so that part would be okay but I don't want to put a lug with a 1/2" hole on a 5/16" starter stud even with washers. I would like to upgrade to 4/0 cables if I can find them. The battery I had in it turned out to be a MAX27 from Walmart that is rated at 810 CCA. If it was in good condition it would probably work okay with good cables. I charged it all day on a 6 amp trickle charger. The hydrometer readings are even but just up to the bottom of the good scale. It is under warranty but probably not in the bad range enough to get it replaced if they checked it. They have closed all their service centers so they may not bother testing for warranty replacements right now. It was one of the 5 year warranty batteries and it's 3-1/2 years old.
Get a group 31 if it will fit and you have to get a new one.
This came through today. Everything looked fine and the batteries tested good. It has been an on again off again starting problem. Voltage drop test on the negative cable was about 2.5 volts while cranking a disabled engine. Had a little heat here. Probed the insulation a few inches back and isolated the drop to this spot. Then cut the insulation back. Copper is hard and odd colored but not green like I expected to find. Why meters are needed to isolate the problem.
2/0 cable is more than enough for your machine. Go to an auto electric or heavy equipment shop and they should have the proper crimp connectors and crimper for the battery cables.
Got everything rounded up. I called a local Auto Electric shop and was told they used the Interstate battery store for large cables. That reminded me I had a friend that worked there so I called him. They had the lugs and a battery but no 2/0 cable. Back to the welding supply store to buy cable then to Interstate to have the lugs crimped and buy a battery. Their battery only has a 1 year warranty but the cost was a little lower due to the good buddy discount. I'm all in for about $170.
Group 31 batteries are considered commercial which I think is why the warranty is only 12 month's. You must not talk to your "buddy" too much.
Let us know how you make out!
If anybody needs/wants a group 31 battery, CCA 950 CA 1050 .... Rural king has them on sale for $60 !! good til 9/26 Otherwise $80 https://www.ruralking.com/weeklyad
No Rural King stores around here. All the group 31-950 batteries are running $120-$150. I paid $117 for the battery, $32 for the cable, and $8 for the lugs. Add 7.5% sales tax. I don't know how well it will spin it because it started up before it could make a full revolution with the starter. We'll see how it does if and when it gets cold. Tractor has a 6 milliamp draw from the radio memory which is normal.
I am not sure if my radio was installed or original, but it has a toggle switch next to it that shuts all power. I really have not used it much other than testing it, so I leave that toggle switch off. My tractor will be on a maintainer as soon as the weather starts getting cold. I have used them for years and they really make a difference in battery life. They even make solar units these days if there isn't power where you store the tractor.
I actually had a 10w solar panel glued to the hood but since I moved it into a barn I took it off. I have a 30W panel on the roof of the barn and was trading it back and forth between a car and the backhoe but the charge controller just went bad. I've had a heck of a time keeping solar charge controllers working. I have another 100w panel I'm going to put on the roof at some point. Going to have to order a couple of charge controllers. I have a 1 amp maintainer I keep on my motorcycle and damn if it didn't just fail.
Florida is lousy with Rural King stores. I don't think they were there when I worked down there. I sure wish there were some within a hundred miles of here. I'd go buy a half a dozen series 31 batteries.
NH575E, If the 30A panel is still good, how about this control? I have at least 6 battery tender brand maintainers, and (knock on wood) have never had one go bad, and I have had them for over 10 years. I even have a 4-gang unit in my shipping container that keeps my smaller tractors and quads up to snuff, even in the North East PA cold. https://www.zoro.com/battery-tender...0ff62a5aa93f175093c9753f40a414ae&gclsrc=3p.ds mitch504, I have read many things about how great Rural King is on this and other tractor forums. There are not any in NJ (The Garden State...LOL). Also, since it came up in this thread, I looked at locations near my place in North East PA...none there either. When I searched by zip code, they showed me stores at the other end of PA and Ohio. Anyhow, I looked online and from the pics, it looks like tractor supply on steroids! They have there own brand of tractor and all. The above stated, I would like to at least browse one some day
Thanks Swetz! I will definitely give the battery tender brand a look. I was thinking of using the group 27 battery I pulled out for LED lights or something. I don't have any power in the barn. I need a controller for the 100w panel also. Fair amount of chatter about the RK tractor on TBN. Those are rebranded TYM tractors. Very mixed reviews on RK service for those. Hope it works out better for the buyer's than it did for the Cabela's TYM venture.
Yeah, I've never been to a rural king either. My wife wants to go visit family in NC in October. There is one only 60 miles from there, I may take a day trip to look around. I will deeply regret missing that few hours with my cousins-in-law, but...
Have one Wentzville MO we would stop in at once in awhile, just opened another in Warrenton MO some 40 miles away, is to be another RK in Union MO to challenge the Dickey Bub and Orscheln's stores there.
I buy jeans there for $10.00 a pair. Decent quality.
Hey NH 575E, How is it starting. I saw you posted in a reply in another thread that you omitted the negative side cut-out, but haven't heard how fast it is cranking with the new battery and cables??
Starts right up. Hopefully it will continue when the weather cools if it does.
Great news...Let us know if it works in the cold too.
Started right up at 30 degrees this morning. Not a super cold test but we don't get much super cold down here. I held the key to warm up the glow plugs for about 20 seconds and engaged the starter. Didn't hardly make a revolution before it started. Looks like new cables were the main fix but I'm sure a higher capacity battery didn't hurt. I connected a camera and some lights to the old battery and have it on a 100W solar charger. It has remained charged ever since. I did take Swetz's advice on the Battery Tender solar controller for my 30W panel. I put a switch on the panel since you are supposed to connect to the battery before the panel. I swap it back and forth between my old Mustang and the Backhoe. When the charged light is green I turn the panel switch off and swap the controller to the other battery and turn the panel back on. I have SAE battery connectors dangling from the grill of everything that sits.
NH575E, Thank you for the update. I am glad to hear it is working out well with the single battery and new cables. Also glad the battery tender is working well. I swear by them, and have 2 of the 4-gang units, one in the garage and one in a trailer that I store atv's in. I also have about 5 additional units that I have on various stuff such as my snow plow truck, a log splitter, and some spare batteries. I have never had one go bad (battery tender unit), and it is amazing how long a battery will last when it is kept on a maintainer. I have the battery tender connectors hanging out of every vehicle I own that has a battery in it, including the NH675E. It just makes charging them so easy!
I chased starting problems on my Kubota 6800 for years. Replaced the battery and ultimately a OEM rebuilt starter for about $350.00 vs $600.00 plus for a new one.. It made no difference. My brother in law cooked the starter. While I try to avoid Chicom products I purchased a new China starter for $100.00 with serious doubts. I also decided to remove the ground cable and wouldn't you know discovered the original problem. Concealed corrosion between the copper lug and the steel frame. I cleaned it up very well, put electroconductive grease on it, lo and behold that cheap Chicom starter spins that diesel better than when new. I'm certainly not advocating Chicom stuff. Went through 6 HF 1" impacts on a one time job running 200 1" x 14" galvanized bolts on pilings on a waterfront project. I didn't want to spend $1200.00 plus on a IR to have it rust and collect dust after the job.
Legdoc, I am with you on the Chinese stuff, but, I recently purchased an IR 1" drive impact (not cheap at all), and guess where it is made...yup, China. So, we could look at it another way...if you go to HF and get Chinese goods cheaply, is that worse then trying to support an American company that has sold you out, and you paid top dollar for it??? On the same thought...my son just purchased his first house, and I figured I would get him some Milwaukee 18 Volt cordless tools, after all the ones I have, have worked well over the years. So, I went on the home depot site and saw a nice kit that had a 1/2" hammer drill, Sawzall, 1/4" impact, 1/2" impact, and an angle grinder, and ordered it for him. When the box came it looked like Chinese cardboard, and I thought, no! I opened the box and looked at the tools, yup, China. Now I look on the internet and find out the company that owns Milwaukee is headquartered in Hong Kong, and, they own Rigid and Ryobi too. Now would it be so bad of me to have purchased the HF version of these tools at half the price?? Personally, I am feeling scamed by Milwaukee! It is not just Milwaukee, they are all doing it...look at the premier German brand...same thing, mostly China. God I wish we were back in the business of making stuff here...not just stuff, the best stuff in the world. OK, I am done ranting .
You can take some solace in the fact that the Chinese Milwaukee tools are really good. Especially if you spring for the "FUEL" version of those battery powered tools.
I felt the same way when I started eyeing a 1/2" corded milwaukee drill at home depot several years ago. The price tag caught my attention. Wow, a great drill at this price somethings gotta be up. Turns out they started a Chinese line to compete. I think you can still get the American made hole shot or at least you could back then. Awesome drill..... Mine was US made several years ago. I think it will still break my elbow, wrist and forearm in two before I burn it up.
Hey NH575E, Has it gotten colder than 30 degrees, and did you try to start the tractor? It was 15 degrees yesterday morning when I started mine...it was sluggish, but the engine fired right off. It has been in the single digits a lot this winter, but I have not tried to start the machine in that weather. I think I need to get my machine back on the battery tender. I cannot now for the snow, which we have big piles of, and more on the way early next week.
No we haven't had any below 30 degree weather that I started it in. It hasn't failed to spin right over and start with the new cables and single battery so I assume it's fixed. I have been periodically switching the solar charger between my Mustang, backhoe, and John Deere. Those controllers say to always connect to a battery BEFORE connecting to the solar panel so I put a toggle switch on the panel and I have a long lead with a SAE plug to mate with all 3 machines. I flip the panel switch off and move it to another machine then flip the switch back on. Has worked flawlessly.
Good on 2 accounts...not too cold, and the tractor is fixed! I have thought about removing the negative cutoff switch as I am sure the connections and contacts yield resistance in the system. I just do not use it because of where it was placed. I do understand that it was put under a locked cover for security, but if it were in the locked cab somewhere, I might use it. Imagine with all the snow, me out there taking a cover off in order to just start the machine...no thanks. I have not pulled the plug on it yet because it has not become a problem. If it does, I will probably just remove as you did.
My Case 580SK had cold weather package which included 2 Case 560 cc batteries. I switched over to 1 950cc group 31 years ago and I'm in NYC, works fine. That ground strap from battery box to frame can really mess with starting if not cleaned.
I believe "amp's" is the pressure and volts does the work.
Volts is the pressure, amps is the flow, volts x amps is the work or watts. neither will do work on their own, sort of like speed and torque both make HP, neither does anything on their own.
You guys be safe up there in the freezing weather. Been mild and rainy down here.
Agree, Volts is what moves the worker amps down line, less volts requires More amps same work, and vs a vs.
The theory of more volts = less amps is why the power company I work for raises the voltage very high (currently up to 500,0000 volts) to transmit, then steps down to deliver. Of course the fact that there is less loss (= lost $$) at a higher voltage helps too .
At the Nuke were at 345KV rated, actual was closer to 360KV for on line volts to achieve 345 at end load point(Corona and other Resistance loss), 1000 amps per phase. Step downs brought Amps to much higher values for service.
Hey DMiller, My employer also owns generation, (many power companies sold off all generation) but is selling (trying to...LOL) all the fossil fuel generators currently. Additionally they have 3 nuke plants, and lots of solar, and are about to throw a lot of money at wind for off shore generators. Anyhow, we also generate at lower voltages, then step up for the long haul, then back down (why AC won the battle) for subtransmission, then even lower voltages for what we call secondary's.
Main Genny at plant was 25KV delivery to step ups, they took that and made 360kv at 1000 amps. We had a aux transformer for site loads that fed two 13,800 & four 4160 step downs, those in turn fed 480s and other switchgear to make usable power for plant structures. All three phase but the 120V. My previous employer also wants out of Generation, said many times "They know what ENRON did wrong and are going to prove what the base concept was will be equitable". A fools parade.
160 ton of rolling mass, main generator rotor
Sweet!!
Get that mother moving takes a day to wind down!!!
Yea, not like the jets.
We had an engineer at work that decided it would save money if they reduced the voltage. Cost my department about $50,000 in boards and equipment before I figured out what was going on. The bad part was a lot of the equipment would have run at the lower voltage but would have needed some jumper changes made on the boards BEFORE it was changed.
LOL, NH575E, your story reminded me of a boss I had at Good Year, in the early days of my auto career. He was a real smart one, he was going to save some money, so the store was more profitable. So, he turned off the heat in the shop. We all wore jackets all day. By morning we had a flood because the water pipes burst. They fixed the plumbing, and he was so smart, he did it again....yes, the plumber was back the next day to replace pipes again. Not sure he saved the money he thought he would...