Hi evryone thanks for your time of reading this, here is the long storry short machine was in a shop door number one and the shop caught fire at door number 3 so machine have some light heat damage but no wire melted other then the light wire i got it running , the heater blower works ,the front wiper and all the lights with basically nothing more then just remplace melted light break line were busted power shuttle need some new clutches but that all done my problem its the cluster, the only thing that work are the alt light the oil pressure light and the back lighting none of the gauge works ther is any way of testing it see if it is any good wath reading should i get at both plug the tach plug is a 3 wire plug and i got that bigger plug right beside it i got the manuel but got lost ???? and if the cluster is dead can i wire some redneck enginering gauge on that machine i gust sure but wath kind i am not an elecric expert i can make a light work but when it come to omh and that kind of stuff i don't know mutch thanks for your help bob
The K gage set is not heavy in electronics, it has printed circuits but they are just conductors from the dash plug to the individual gages, I have seen the fingers where the cluster plug goes in get out of place if care was not taken plugging them in. Check all your fuses first as the upper left I believe feeds the dash, could be wrong on that tho. Use a test light to verify voltage on both sides of the fuse. The dash cluster has a piece of foam covering the printed circuits and if removed carefully you can inspect the traces for damage or burning. The gages are individual and can be replaced separately by disassembling the dash. Test and let us know what you find. Harness failures were not unheard of in the Ks but not a real common problem. crawl around underneath and make sure all multiple plugs are clean and firmly seated together. Both along the frame in the middle and the large plugins at the rear of the rear axle right side.
thanks the foam is not ther anymore like someone temper with this befor and ther is a damage on the printed cricuit i wil try to get it out of the machine and back inside for more examination
well that's about it the circuit that go from 3 rd pin top left is broken and the rest is not looking so good but might work by some miracle
I've seen worse, its repairable. You can re-soldier a wire on that line.
Yes, HOD has it right, if you find breaks in the copper traces you can carefully scrape the lacquer off the copper till bright, get a very small wire and bridge the gap by soldering the wire across the break. be sure to use Rosin core solder and have everything real clean, check each trace at the cluster plug and at its other end with an ohm meter for continuity, those socket contacts look pretty rusty so be sure there is good contact to the trace
thanks i lost my welding iron once i find ill try for now i try with a wire twisted to the cooper trace but no luck an other wird thing that make me think that the cluster might be not the problem is the ex onwer have butcher some wiring the tach works when the starter turn the engin but stop working when the engin is it running the broken coper trace seem to go for green flacher light in cluster so might not be the cause of the malfonction i cant find any were witch reading i should get at the plug with that it wil be easyer to run after any broken wire thanks angin for your help
I think the tach wire on those is connected to the alternator. Sounds like he has it connected on the wrong pin on the alternator. Don't ask me where it goes, I would need to see a picture of the back of your alternator with the wires connected.
Be sure that you have a good ground as well to complete the circuit.A bad ground can look like a lot of problems on the surface.As said before,make sure that all surfaces are clean and "tin" the traces and what you are using to bridge the burnt conductors before you actually solder the jumpers in place.If solder will not stick to the foil then it is not clean enough to attempt a repair.There are many things that you can use for jumpers but I find just clipping off an old resistor lead works pretty good if you don't have any copper handy.Sometimes it is less trouble to just run an insulated wire from point a to point b rather than fuss with repairing a trace just on principle as long as electrically they are the same.Ron G
the yellow red go to the w blade plug that sould by for the tach
thanks ill try that but the trace is just going for the green flacher light so not a big deal the cluster sould work anyway
Ok, the yellow wire that goes to the "W" should be for your tach. "W" on the alt is where a tach should be connected. The other "red" wire (NOT the one thats covered) is your D+, its the one that goes to the "alt" dash light. This is the wire that "excites" the alt at start up to get it to charge. If your dash is screwed up, removing this D+ wire from the alt and adding an extention wire on it ( the alt), and then when your tractor is running, all you have to do is "MOMENTARILY" touch this wire to the positive post on the battery and your alt should start charging. I can't really see your schematic, but on the alt "W" wire, follow it to the tach. You should have ac pulses from the "W" feed pin.