I just left anderson equipment (komatsu) dealoe for my engine oil an filter,an after i drained the engine im dpuble checking the oil they sold me an says transmission on it!!! Im not putting this in until i get confirmation ... I have a komatsu d41s3 mid 80's machine. I even gave them my setial number!! I have 2 5 galone pails of komatsu To 30. Sae 30.....i asked for the aae 30 but this looks wrong to me!! It says genuine powertrain oil transmission oil!!! Did they make a big screw up,or am i wrong? Please help as my machine is down until i add the correct engine oil.
It defiantly is not designed for use in an engine. It is a 30W hydraulic oil. The image is from the Komatsu website. Look here ----> https://www.komatsu.com.au/getattac...d98/LUBRICANTS,-COOLANTS-FILTRATION-SOLUTIONS
Guessing the dealer thought you bought engine oil from another vendor.
15W-40 diesel engine oil all the way
Unreal!! Yes exacrly what im getting..i did my homework an found this! On the officaly komatsu site too!! Says (do not use in engine)!!! An they sold it to me for my engine at anderson equip...i dont want to bash nice people.there great,but i could have rueined my machine .....
Parts people are not Technicians, and even Seasoned Technicians have caught themselves almost putting the wrong product in the wrong compartment. Always double check is a good rule. Simon C
Very good answer
I would think asking for the 30 grade oil confused the seller , asking for the correct grade for the motor would have been better , 15-40 , would have stopped any confusion . You will be able to use the 15-40 in the hydraulics , probably lists the oil to use as motor oil in that age dozer for your hydraulics , does in my dozers anyway . Consider using the 15-40 in the transmission as well . Original manuals may recommend that to . It is always better to have a lower number of oil types in the shed .
YEs i have the factory manual.of coarse the grades go with the ambiant temp chart, an 30 weight is ok,an what was used in this machine since new,so i wanted to stick with what was always used. I explained all of this,however im getting diffsrent answers from different dealors.thete saying the TO 30 is ok to put in the engine, however c.n. wood company (great company) agrees as well,but recomends as u said...i am changing to the 15 40 only because on the pail an on the spec sheet of the TO 30 specifically says do not put in engine. So idk really,im at a loss.dont feel good using it. i wanted mastik sae 30 but just cant get it anywhere around me at all! That is the exact oil used in it since new. Mastik sae 30.......omg all this for a simple oil change!!! Im going nuts
Something is a little misleading. Cat TO-4 spec. is for trans. oil not engine oil.
Use 5w40, 10w30, 15w40 in the engine. Makes no sense to use straight 30 weight, it's not 1970 anymore.
Makes no sense to use straight 30 weight especially if you are in the State of Maine when temperatures can be 0℉ in the winter.
Maybe you are having trouble finding 30 weight mono grade motor oil because nobody uses it and have changed to the 15-40 .
We actually still sell it, P66 T5X and Delo 400 but those drums are SLOW movers. Same with Delo 100 40wt, not many 2 stroke Detroit around anymore.
I don't know about the 3 oils you list but a 20 liter container I picked up Monday for my New Holland wheel tractor has a four year shelf life . No weight number was listed , just the name , Hydraulic Transmission Oil , Premium . Zinc Free Technology bit further down the label warning , may contain traces of zinc . It wouldn't pay to have that oil slow moving . I have never noticed a shelf life on oil before .
What goes wrong with new oil in a sealed pail? I can see it maybe needing to be mixed or stirred but can't see how it degrades.
You can't blame the dealer or business for the not so smart employee's mistake. I suppose there is a lot of that nowadays though. Employee's can ruin a good outfit quick.
I can't see the reason it would degrade . Said also to store away from heat . Plenty of tractors would not reach the hours for an oil change in 4 years , wet clutch , hydraulics and in a transmission is hardly a cool place . Case/IH / New Holland require their brand oil for the 2000 hr / two year warranty . Funnier thing is the transmission and motors are used in other brand tractors . Little better than a scam .
If a dealer or business has no training and hires the cheapest people they can get you can certainly blame them. Saw it many times when I worked in welding supplies. A couple places they hired people with absolutely zero welding experience and no training what so ever on what they were selling. Still remember when I was shopping in a welding supply and the guy in front of my was asking for some 3/32" 6011. The moron at the counter came back and said they didn't have it in stock and gave the guy 6013 saying it's only one number different. I just shook my head. It's the most important number. Major difference between 6013 and 6011. Could easily be the difference between a weld holding and a weld failing. It is a scam. Case IH/New Holland might give an extended warranty if you use their branded oil. It is illegal if they require their oil for the standard warranty. I would think 2000 hours is the standard warranty though. It would be really interesting if someone used another brand of oil meeting Case specs. and their engine failed under 2000 hours and Case denied warranty. Especially if it was proven the cause wasn't oil related or Case couldn't prove it wasn't their oil.
Marketed as Case/IH and New Holland here , pretty much both the same , I was told they had different bonnets with one costing more to replace . Only a matter of time the brands will rubbed into one .
Aren't they part of Fiat?
That's not engine oil. 5 year shelf life on almost all oil. 3 on grease. Sure still usable, just likey it's not as good. Just the same as food. Grocery store can't sell it, but if you want to eat pickles from 1997, have at it, probably ok. Slow moving like sell a few hundred gallons a year vs like 15w40, sell a few hundred thousand.
I don't think oil that's a few tears old compares at all to food. Oil has been in the ground for millions of years and once blended is bad in 5. I think it's another gimmick for people to buy more. I don't remember seeing a best before date on oil so how can they know how old it is?
This is the first container I've ever seen it have a use by requirement , I have noticed the date oil has been made on containers and 200 liter drums for years . I knew the oil I bought was for the transmission , 38 hour old tractor has a loader lift ram leak . As for the grease having a 3 year use by date I would never have guessed that .
Sell by dates on oil is just to keep the product moving....off the sellers shelves, what in heck could be wrong with oil/grease that has been sealed in it's container? Answer me that.
Reminds me of the Coors "Born on" dates................it's a gimmick.
Adfitive separation and oxidation are the main issues. Was in the ground as nassty crude, not refined and blended product. There's a fill date or lot number. See "FD"...
It's moreso a 3 year sell by date to ensure it's high quality. The thickener starts separating at some point. It's "sealed" but not really. A cardboard tube and slip on cap is far from air tight.
All the places that have bulk tanks filled before they are empty must have some old oil in them when they are topped up. Does topping it up automatically rejuvenate the old oil? Some large totes have a fill date but no use by date. 1L to 5L jugs that most people use never have any dates on them. If the additives seperate why not just put a note to shake or mix before using?? A friend gave me a new pail of grease when he was moving. It has no date on it and I haven't noticed it getting thinner or degrading at all and it's over 3 years old. I'm not going to stop using it just because it's over 3 years old. The trans., hyd. and diff. fluid in many tractors is 10 or more years old and still does it's job. Not saying it shouldn't be changed but there are thousands of tractors that have never had it changed and are still working properly. It would be interesting to see an engine or drivetrain problem directly related to using new oil from a sealed container but older than 5 years. Would be interesting to see the results of testing old oil in original container vs new oil off the shelf. Millions of transmissions and differentials have never had a fluid change in the life of the vehicle and kept chugging along. A lot have certainly had problems but there's still a lot that didn't. A lot of times the rest of the vehicle has deteriorated to the point it isn't road worthy. A lot of people only think about needing to change the engine oil and not the other fluids on a vehicle and don't experience major problems. I think if using old oil was a big problem, all containers would have use by or best before dates.
Still working and working optimally aren't the same. We handle lubes for everything from small engines, planes, mining equipment, oil field equipment, etc. Easily multi-million dollar break downs for not keeping a proper lube analyst and replacement program. I promise a mine isn't spending several million a year on oil just because. Most lubes are dated, just some need deciphering. Like this is ... July 31, 2023
Icehole I believe you are spot on. 20 years ago I tried to pour out some 10 plus years of still sealed in 1 liter jug 10W30 oil. Oil came out then a long mollasses volume started to come out. It was hanging 12 inches out of 1 liter jug. I cut it off with my finger and the last 1 inch was still in jug. I had to get new oil to add to motor to mix it. Then ran it 10 minutes to dump back out. Put new oil back in and did not have any more problems. The rest of the jugs in the case did the same thing. Would it have mixed if I had gotten the additive still in the bottom of jug out and into the motor, don't know. Did not take a chance. My oil gets used within 2-3 years tops. That is my experience with older oil. Simon C
Maybe oil in diffs. and non engine applications can be in service for a long time because it is continuously being mixed and doesn't sit for years and years. Most new oil has a foil seal glued on under the cap just like brake fluid. If oil has a use by date I wonder if the oil companies have tested to see just how long the oil is good for in sealed containers? Would be interesting to see how the oil changes and how long it takes? I think a lot of people could have partially filled containers of gear oil and other lubricants that are occasionally used for topping off. They don't go out to buy more if they already have some. I've got a couple bottles of brake fluid that's been opened because it's supposed to be the worst for picking up moisture after it's opened. I didn't want to take a chance after spending over $1000 to get the clutch on the grader working again. If I was topping up the gear box or chain case on the rototiller I'd use what I had despite it having been opened in the past.
Absolutely correct Dave. Brake fluid is Hygroscopic ( is I believe how it is spelled ) . It loves to absorb moisture. Thats why I spend $10 every 3 years to bleed all the brakes on my vehicles to get the water out of calipers and anywhere else. New fluid every time, I can afford. I can not afford calipers worth $300-800 for one caused by water over time with oxygen in it corroding inside of bore with eventual seal leakage. That is how I run my gear. Have never changed a caliper on any of my cars up to 250000kms. I also spray silicone lube on all the rubber CV boots every oil change, cost about 1 dollar. They never dry out, and never crack or break. But I do use the end of my Differential oil pail but mix the bottom with a bar I have because it does settle out a little, not like the jugs I posted above. Yes do not reuse Dot3 or Dot4 brake fluid. Simon C
It's interesting that a lot of vehicles don't get the brake fluid changed at regular intervals.
Yea... Zactly!... Anheiser Bush used to brag about beechwood aged, now it has to be fresh....lol. Anything to make the fish bite!