My 246 won't start, the key will close the relay but the constant 12v (109-E47 RD 12) is not there, also the 12v is not at the alternator (109-E46 RD-4) . If I put a jumper on (109-E46 RD-4) the machine starts and runs and can drive but the work tool lock will not release and allow the right joy stick to operate, I do have power to the right joystick with the key on. All fuses I can find check ok with a meter and I do have 12v leaving the PWR FUSE MODULE. I am running out of ideas and would appreciate any help. Thanks
Check the breakers at the back side. If there isn’t power at the alternator
I don't have power at the alternator, I don't see any breakers on the schematic I have, just fuses and they are all good, can you tell me where the breakers are? Thanks
What is the Serial Number of the machine and does the electrical schematic that you have cover it.? If your model is the one I think it is the breakers (not sure if they are breakers or fuses from memory) are on the RH engine compartment wall as you look in front of the back.
Thank you for your help I have a product identification number, it is CAT0246CVJAY06200, I attached a picture of it in my original post, the air filter is mounted on the right side, I don't remember seeing any fuses though. Thanks
There is a fuse under each of the 3 covers circled.
I have checked those, the are under the cab and there are 6 fuses all ate good and I have 12 volts coming off the wires located at the other end of the each has two wires one is switched with the key and one has constant 12v, these are all good best I can tell
What’s the Cat reference of the schematic that you are working from.?
KENR8666-03
Ah, you have the wrong schematic. KENR8666 only covers JAY machines with S/N between 2060 and 2115. For machines 2116-Up you need UENR1753. Check your message inbox.
Thanks, I really appreciate your help and the correct schematic
Refer to UENR1753, Page 8. Wire 109-E46 is supplied with battery + via the starter motor. All the other 109-Exx wires get their power from 109-E46. See below. Why not check 109-E46 at the starter motor for power.
I have 12 volts on 109-E46, I have used it to jump the seloniod and spin the motor. It goes back to a main fues at the battery under the cab and that fues is good as well
In that case you would appear to have an open circuit in 109-E46 somewhere between the starter motor and the alternator. The power goes from the starter to the alternator on 109-E46 then backfeeds to the splice shown below via wire 109-E60.
I have looked at the wiring harness and it looks ok without opening it up, I would like to see this splice but it's buried somewhere. Would it be possible that I'm missing a relay that would have the right hand joy stick function locked out , I can put 12 volts on these wires and it will start and drive but the work tool lock is red and will not clear with the parking break switch?
That means nothing unfortunately. It is indeed, and unfortunately the schematic gives no indication of its location. I wouldn’t worry about it though, because it is not your problem. It is wire 109-E60 coming FROM the alternator that brings power to the splice that feeds wires 109-E47 & 109-E48 If you study the schematic closely wire 109-E46 goes direct from the starter motor to the alternator with no other connections or branches. IT IS NOT PART OF THE SPLICE. So if you have power at the starter motor end of 109-E46 but nothing at the alternator end then either the wire has failed internally or a lug at one end or the other has failed. Have you tried disassembling the connections of that wire at both ends, clean, and reassemble.? At this stage you have nothing to lose.
Thank you and I agree I have nothing to loose and those wires are accessible enough that it is an easy check. Then my work tool system being locked out is a totally different issue? I have put a hot 12 volt jumper on 109-E46 and the machine will start and move but work tool light is red and will not reset so I have no function on the right joystick, I do have 12v at the joystick that is present when the key is in the on position.
It is entirely possible that there are two separate problems. I figured the no crank was the important one therefore focused on it. Kind of parked the issue regarding the work tool lockout issue temporarily. The first thing that you need to get your head around is understanding the direction of power flow starting (no pun intended) from the starter motor and ending up at the two relays via the alternator then via the splice.
I appreciate this, it will be tomorrow before I can look a the 109-E.. wires. I will let you know what I find. Thanks
Don’t know how far you have gone yet but just try this. Remove the 109-E46 wire from the terminal at the alternator so that it is no longer in contact with either the terminal stud or the 109-E60 wire. Check the voltage between the ring terminal on the end of 109-E46 and machine frame ground. If it’s still dead go looking at the connections at the BAT terminal on the starter.