Have a case 580k, and i need to replace the swing tower bushings and pins. would like to know the proper way to do this. also would like to know the tool used to remove and reinstall the bushings. I have beed taking the torch and burn the bushings out. getting them in is very difficult. I assume there is some kind of portable press. any info would help thanks
Put the new bushings in the freezer or use liquid nitrogen or dry ice to get them frozen and you should be able to tap them in with a dead blow hammer. Some will just drop in. MAKE SURE you have them in the right place though because when they start to thaw out they will start expanding. Nitrogen works the best but isn't always easy to come by. Speed is the key here.
that, and keep your bushings on ice for about 24 hrs before you put them in, surprising how much that little bit of shrink helps. and in the bore where the bushings go in, wipe the face of the bore with a film of either STP or Motor Honey. i use a block of hardwood on the bushing so i don't beat them all up while driving them in place.
If the bushings don't quite fit after freezing, try heating up the housing and then drop in the frozen bushings. Sometimes on real tight fits this will work. As said before, speed is the key.
bushing replacement I use a otc 17.5 ton push/puller to install bushings in the case machines, this unit has a 1 inch course thread, with step bushing inserts. The duct steel on these machines is not forgiving it can and will brake. I have used the dry ice ect. and will also work aslong as you can quickly insert and it dose not expand on you.
Got a picture, or link to your OTC unit? Phil
After removal of the pin I have always run a bead on the I.D. of the bushing with a welder. Stick or MIG then tap it out with a bushing driver. Works very easy every time for me. Cool the new bushing in the freezer but hurry. Liquid N would cool it much better if you had access to it but make sure you use eye protection, face shield and thick gloves cryogenics are neat to play with but can be dangerous. If you have acces to liquid N try freezing a bananna and use it as a hammer and drive a nail with it.
puller info Phil, here are some links these are from (Grainger,quick search) catalog picks 3Z962 otc (twin cylinder ram) kit, 2RV26 Enterpac (single cylinder ram kit),5U732 step kit otc, 3R662 step kit, drill center out to just over 1 1/16 inch for the threeded rod, most kits have a hand pump but i also have and air pump 4Z482, and foot pump P392FP, must of all B7 or harder threaded rod, my local supply carries in 10' lengths, grainger has it up to 6' so you can make all the differant lengths you may need. after you look, ask and i will explain more.
I would have to agree with legdoc. Running a bead (or sometimes multiple beads) around the ID is the best way to facilitate removal especially if working with a blind hole. The weld has a tendency to "pull" and this actaully shrinks the bushing. Freezer or dry ice is best for installation. Sometimes alittle heat on the mating part helps as well. Just be ready with all the driving or pressing equipment because temps. will equalize very quickly. Pressing is the prefered method for installation as driving can be rather harsh. With the heat and freezer method very often bushings will drop right in and you may not need to do any driving or pressing.
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums PD Mech Steve! :drinkup
Getting ready to do bushings and pins on our 10000 hour 580. Reading up on it trying to get some ideas on manhandling the boom. Will probly have a 595 or something to help depending on what site it ends up moving to.. I think I'm going to try and leave houses on so I have hydraulics to help line everything back up. Thanks guys been reading the forum and your all awesome
EvanM … Pls post pics of how you handled the boom & Stick. I want to replace the swing tower bushings. I did the boom bushings and it was a bit hairy and scary getting it back together. I used the stabilizers and boom cylinder for the job.
I used an engine hoist when I had mine off.