Rt. Rear wheel locks up temporarily while traveling also oil cooler may be running hot. Is lock up a rear end issue or a brake issue? When it locks up I lose directional control. This backhoe is relatively new to me. Brakes are noisy.
It is common on the E series for the pedal linkage to seize up on the differential lock. Perhaps this is what is happening on your machine....you cannot steer properly when this happens! It is common on construction equipment for the cooler/rad to become clogged with dirt and debris, especially is there is a leak. This is where I would start, of course, verify it is actually "running hot"
Also make sure you released the Emergency Brake.
Thanks to both of you for your input. I am following your suggestions. Over the weekend I tried to release fluid pressure on the master cylinder for the RR by cracking a fitting(on the output of the right master cylinder) That did relieve the locked up RR. Don't know how long it may last. There was no trapped air, just fluid. Does anyone have any suggestion on accessing the brake oil reservoir? My downloaded operational manual (Youfixthis.com) shows a panel cover at the lower right area below the steering wheel ,but mine doesn't look like that. It appears to me that I may have to remove a hand full of screws to see behind the panel but can't remove it altogether without removing the steering wheel. Maybe the manual doesn't show exactly where the reservoir actually is? Any thoughts? Appreciate you.
If it has the cover on it it should just have two screws to remove the cover. It is right below and to the right of the steering wheel. You shouldn't have to remove the wheel to access it. Is your machine a cab or open station?
Open station. I will have to take a closer look to see if I can find a cover with 2 screws. Thanks for your input. I will try to take a photo and attach.
Apparently NH used 3 different versions over the E series. It should be easy to figure out what you have. The first has sensors at the master. The second has sensors in a divorced block. The 3rd doesn't show sensors. Anyhow, If you cracked the fitting for the right rear @ the master cylinder, and the brake is all good, it could be that the pedal in that cylinder is not returning. Brake hoses also go bad, but if you cracked the line at the master and the brake released, it would seem that the hose is open. I would get the cover off as discussed and look for bound up linkage as a first quick and free repair.
Brake reservoir cover should be here.
Had to do a little work with my hoe today and noticed my brake reservoir cover only has one screw hole. It hooks in at top and has a screw in the bottom. Mine is a 98 vintage cab model. My original cap and level sensor are missing but my brakes have never worked anyway.
Thanks for the photo...that's what mine looks like except for the screw, mine had a black knob over screw threads, yours may have too. Sort of good news.. overheating is not a problem it's just the sensor &/or gauge. So today the left brake decided to lock up and cracking the left rear cylinder bleeder released it. I couldn't find any pressure switches searching from the brake reservoir side or the master cylinder side. Does my vin say it's a 1998 unit? I wish my brakes didn't work, is there a way to back them off from the top side, maybe at the master cylinders? I have an old 70's vintage Ford backhoe that I acquired back in the 80's that was worn out then but I can operate it in spite of the looseness in the boom. Never had much brakes except the front bucket into the dirt. I have cleared a lot of land with a chain saw ,stump grinder, and backhoe and lots of man hours. I really appreciate your help and expertise.
ps...I couldn't see any linkage issues but it's hard to see anything beyond the master cylinders. Maybe I need to do more disassembly? I am looking with the front bucket in the raised and locked position.
Like Swetz said earlier. If opening a line at the master cylinder releases the brakes then the problem is in the linkage or master cylinder sticking. If you have to open a bleeder at the axle it's probably in the flex hoses to the axle.
I assume you meant bleeder at the master cylinder? I guess I should start at the rear axle and work backward toward the master cylinders to look for flex hose issues?
I haven't ever looked at the master cylinder end of mine. If they have a bleeder that would be the same as cracking a line. If opening either at the master causes the brakes to release that should rule out the hoses I think.
So if the masters are causing the problem...should I try flushing the brake system and replacing the fluid? Wouldn't you have to bleed the air out like on a car ?
That sounds like the best approach.
That brake oil can add up in cost.
Agreed Yes, and like NH575E said that will cost $$ At the price of the brake oil. I am thinking the linkage is in the cab. May need to remove the cover around the column to really see the linkage, and lube it.
Will try that tomorrow.
Try pumping the crap out of the pedals and see if that loosens anything up.
Yeah that helped a little. I can't help thinking if I had some other kind of fluid/solvent it might loosen more. Bottom line pumping locks up brakes and I have to crack a bleeder at the master. Right now I am trying to send photos but the forum doesn't like my user name in lower case and I don't like trying to input on my cell phone. Fingers too big for the keyboard.
ok, it helped some. but there is no linkage attached to the masters except the brake pedal fulcrum which activates the piston assembly's and closes a brake light switch. It did free up the pedals somewhat but ultimately locked up the brakes requiring bleeding fluid pressure off the cylinders. The only connection to the rear axle is via heavy brake lines which appear to be free of restrictions. I attempted to send some photos to [email protected] . Pls let me know if they made it.
I use the "Attach files" to upload photos. After it uploads I click the "insert" then select "Full image".