Hello all. First post on the forum and I am glad to be apart of the site. To give a little info about the 555E, its a 1998 with about 3950 hrs. Its 4x4, cab, and seems to be in great working order. I've owned it for about 9 months now and short of changing out some fluids/filters, greasing the pivot points, and fixing a flat, its been great. I noticed when I last blew a hose a few weeks ago that the hydraulic fluid is a milky color. Obviously water has gotten into the system at some point, so I am going to drain all of it out as much as possible. I understand that it might take changing the fluid 2-3 times to get as much out as possible, but lets not go down that road. My question for the group is, I am going to change the fluid and 2 main filters, but does anyone see the need for changing the filter inside of the reservoir tank? I honestly did not know it had one until a few minutes ago when I stumbled across it. It seems to be a wire mesh filter that does not cross over to any WIX or Baldwin filter. I really don't want to pay $75 for a filter that is just screening debris.
I would inspect/clean it while you have the tank empty. When I did mine I found a yellow rubber disc loose and wedged inside the inlet. Another member took his off and discovered the rubber disc is part of the filter and located up inside on his. For some reason mine had come loose and I'm surprised it didn't restrict the flow. I made a wrench to get it off so I will include my crude drawing of that. You can build one with flat plate in 3/16" or 1/4". I had to reach in and tap the wrench with a hammer to get it loose.
Thank you for your reply. I do remember reading the thread where the yellow piece was found on the filter. I wasn't sure if the filter could be cleaned or if it had to be replaced. From what you said, it can be cleaned which is good news. I also appreciate the picture. For the sake of asking because 1) the machine isn't near me and 2) I have not been in the tank yet, what is the filter connected to? Does it filter before going to the pump? The hydraulic cooler? The primary/secondary filter? Thanks!
MY 555A HAS WIRE MESH IN TANK, BACK IN TIME THE PACKING IN HYD. CYLINDERS WAS BAD TO COME LOOSE, NEVER BEEN A PROBLEM, ITS HELD IN PLACE WITH IN A METAL FLANGE, WHERE RETURN CONNECTS TO TANK
cosmarr1, WELCOME! You will find that there are not too many New Holland people on this site, or any other site I have come across. That said, there are a hand full of NH owners. I will help you when I can...NH575E, who has already chimed in is very helpful. He has a lot of knowledge because he has been fixing his tractor a while. I just purchased my NH a couple of months ago, so I have some knowledge, but not much at this point...learning everyday. This is a great forum, trust me. I have been on others. The people here just want to help you fix your tractor. Anyhow, I just had the round cover off the hydraulic reservoir and took a couple pics of the filter. This filter is a wire mesh filter on the suction side of the system. It is not fine like a return filter. I have read of many plugging up and causing problems. See the pics below. The filter is screwed into the back of the tank. In my pics you will see a bright spot, that is where the drain plug is out in the bottom.
I too have a 575e that had milky color hyd. oil in it... I dumped the tank and and changed the main filter under the tractor, and filled the tank with 134d equivalent oil. I believe it took about 20 gallons to bring it up to the filler window. The filter is a large expensive high pressure spin-on filter. I took a peek at that mesh screen filter like the one pictured above through the filler cap hole, and it looked pretty clean.. Maybe I should have pulled it and cleaned it. What the best way to clean the suction strainer filters? brake cleaner? Soap and water? I have one on a JCB I want to clean as well..
I have a Ford 555D 96. Here is a leak I found. Only discovered after using machine to pulling stumps, didn’t use loader much yesterday. I don’t have this leak when the machine sits. How do I find our where the leak is located? After reading these threads I have been educated that the fluid has been compromised. Looks milky to me, what do you guys think? I tried to get a good picture. Attached is the best i could muster. thanks for the input and hope I can learn from Cosmaar1 post questions. Tim
I used a can or 2 of brake clean on my JCB suction strainer. A toothbrush can help with the fine mesh too. It's definitely worth the couple minutes to pull it off if the hydraulic fluid is already drained. If that gets plugged it's pretty much lights out for the pump.
Thank you to jimg984 , Swetz, and Jlap530 for all your answers. It is much appreciated and the photos help tremendously. Riddle me this. I have a local Baldwin dealer where I get really great prices on filters. When I do a search for my machine, I get 2 different hydraulic filters. I would assume their site is correct, so I bought both. The problem is, where does the other go???? The BT8874-MPG fits on the filter housing perfectly and matches the original filter that was still on the machine. The BT8880-MPG filter has the same fitting size and is the same width, but the length is 4 inches shorter. Any thoughts? Here is a link to see the filters I am referencing: https://www.baldwinfilters.com/portal/site/Baldwin/menuitem.cbbae88e045ce676de8fe6de4256d1ca/?vgnextoid=35f91ef39676a610VgnVCM10000025651dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN#/?application=Off-Highway Applications&year=&make=&model=555E&engine=16304&equipment=Loaders, Telehandlers, Trenchers&manufacturer=NEW HOLLAND
The screen filter in the tank is the suction filter to protect the pump against debris. Mine didn't really have much trash in it and it has a large enough area I think it would be pretty hard to get enough junk in the tank to clog it. I had lucked across a brand new on on eBay so I had a replacement and didn't clean mine. I seem to encounter odd repair obstacles I wouldn't wish on others and I have a bad habit of sharing them and scaring folks. That said, I would pull the screen to make sure that piece of rubber hadn't come loose in yours. My tank had a full paper towel sheet floating around in it in addition to the rubber disc coming loose in the screen. Milky fluid has been a constant problem on mine since I leave it outside. Not sure if it's caused by condensation or rain water getting in around the seals. I have a barn on order to try and solve that issue. I have changed it once or twice a year. Sometimes you can leave it sitting in the buckets and the water will separate and go to the bottom. I have left it sit and siphoned the clear oil off the top and reused it. This last time I don't know why but whatever made it milky would not separate. I left a clear coffee jar of it on my tool box for months and it remained cloudy. Of course all the oil you can't get out has contaminated the new oil so I will need to change it again and again. The oil in my transmission has never turned cloudy.
I agree with you, if we drain the tank completely, I am going to pop open that side panel and check out the filter just to make sure nothing is stuck on it. I'm sure in the 22 years it has been on this earth, no one has taken a peak inside. I would also agree that it probably has to do with sitting outside. My tranny fluid also is still clear, but when I leave mine site for a week, the sight glass of the hydraulic reservoir shows good oil. Run it for 5 min and now its milky. The oil you had sitting on your toolbox is completely emulsified. That pretty much means it will never separate no matter what you do.
Here is a list of all the filters from New Holland.
Now you just gave me a different # filter!!! This number crosses to BT8911-MPG ... Ay yi yi. Got to love heavy machinery.
Would you happen to know off hand what hex size the drain plug is on the reservoir tank? I can’t seem to find anything on the internet that says that. Out of all of the tools I have, unfortunately I don’t have large hex sockets.
99.9% sure it was 17mm. Hydraulic tank and fuel tank drains are the same size.
You the man!!!! Thanks!
FYI it's tighter than Dick's hatband! I broke my 3/8" drive off in mine and welded it to a piece of bar stock. Had to put a piece of pipe on that to break the plugs loose.
I ended up using an air chisel to get mine off...lol
Wow, guys, I had no problem removing my plug. just used the 17mm x 1/2" drive with a breaker bar. Couple taps with a hammer and she was free. Once it broke, it was only hand tight, but I left the socket in just to make sure I didn't loose the plug in the drain pan...I hate fishing in a drain pan! New Holland is showing $41.00 for the plug. Toxic, did you bugger it up and have to buy another?
Swetz. The previous owner had completly stripped it out so i had no choice but to use the chisel..lol. i didnt buy a new one just put the old one back in hand tight with a monkey wrench
That dumb 17mm hex drain was an issue for my hydraulic fluid flush yesterday, assuming my plug is the same size, and I would think so. I ended up pumping the tank out by hand which took quite a while and left maybe a cup of fluid in the tank. I was wondering with a standard Allen wrench if it'd get bent into several new shapes had I had one. I tried a pipe wrench and cheater bar to no avail.
toxic, I guess that is mixed news...at least you know the previous owner changed the oil As long as it seals, I am not sure I would be looking to pay over $40 for a new one.
Tighter than a Dick's hatband... now thats something you dont hear every day!!!! hahahahahahahaha
Does anyone by chance have a measurement of the width of the hydraulic tank reservoir cover plate? My machine is 20 minutes away from me and I wanted to pick up some gasket material before I change out the oil later this week. Much appreciated!
9 inches
thanks a million kind sir.
I appreciate everyone's help, NH575E, Swetz, Jlap, and anyone else I may have missed. I finally had the time to change out the oil and boy was it fun. I had no issues removing the fluid and my drain plug came out very easy. The suction filter was clean and everything went back together nicely. After taking the side cover plate off so I could look inside the tank, of course the fluid was almost tan/white. Obviously not good. I did find it interesting that the sludge on the bottom of the tank was a thick and white, almost like a paste. It took me about an hour and a lot of rags to finally get it all out. I changed out the fluid, filter, and added 23 gallons of Chevron THF 1000 back to the tank. I let the machine run for about 25 minutes working all of the controls and all was well.... so I thought......... Yesterday I went out and worked the machine for about 6 hours and noticed halfway through that my original red/orangeish colored fluid in the sight glass was now a faintly tinted orange. Obviously I can do the math - if the system holds 36 gallons and I added 23, 33% was still left in the lines, pump, etc.... I guess I was just expecting a better outcome. Looks like I will be spending more money on this thing come the fall time
cosmaar1, I am glad it all worked out well! Yes, it looks like you will be changing out the oil again, at least once. Hopefully it will be all good. Machines always eat up all your spare money...I wouldn't trade my toys for anything!
How long (days, months, years) would you run it before you change it again? I know oil in the engine oil is bad, but how does that work in hydraulic systems? Is leaving tinted oil in there for years a bad idea?
Very bad...Hydraulic parts are expensive. I would change it ASAP if it was mine.
Blah that wasn't want I wanted to hear. The $340 I just paid for oil and a filter hurt the pocket a little bit.
Sorry man...water does not lubricate well, and causes corrosion. I would also look for the source of the water in the tank. I mean, will it get contaminated again, especially if this unit is kept outside.
Very bad idea, cosmaar1 ! A hydraulic pump failure will be just the beginning of your punishment for not doing a proper and complete flush. Adding new oil to contaminated oil is total waste of good oil.
Sorry I didn't see this response until now. Trust me, I understand 100% that it was a complete waste of oil. It hurt my insides knowing that I was dumping 2/3 new oil into 1/3 remaining oil with the chance it would be fully contaminated again. Unfortunately I do not have a filter cart and no one close by that could do a 100% system flush. I agree with what Swetz said about trying to find a source. My thinking is that either the previous owner put the wrong oil in there or that one of the seals is leaking. Finding a leaky seal will be hard because all of my cylinders are dry so I am going to stick with the latter.
Water usually gets in around the filler neck gasket area .Seal it up really well .
tool_king, I’ll ask a stupid question. The filler neck that I have isn’t much of a “neck”. I unscrew the breather from the reservoir tank and it’s flush with the tank. I have all the access I want to add fluid to the tank. Is there supposed to be a gasket or something between the filler and tank? Should I have applied some pipe dope to the plastic breather?
The parts book is your friend ! #17 is the O ring that should keep the water out.
Thanks Tinkerer .For helping out .I had to take a nap from work .Usually I 15 gasket is a problem stop dries out and cracks.When water runs on top the tank water will seep under it and go down the screws .
Guys I never thought about the o-ring or seal to be the issue. Come to mind I don’t remember seeing an o-ring when I took the breather off when I changed the oil. Probably be a good idea to purchase both. What I also found interesting is that the whole new assembly #13 is cheaper than the service kit #16. I can’t believe I overlooked the seal and o-ring. I’ve looked at the picture tool_king sent 100 times and never realized that those could be the issue
Shoot me your email and I can send you the manuals .
I have used water remover socks that made of plastic with a stainless cable attached to it that you can drop in the taank .You can group several together to help speed up removal . I have some in John Deere skid steer running around right now . They are good for diesel,gasoline ,hydraulics and other oils .I will get the name off them .Now keep in mind they are not going to remove gallons of water .
That would be awesome if you could get the name. Thanks!
I did not forget about you.
haha no worries. did they by chance look like this? From what I have read so far they seem to work, but I can’t find anyone specifically using them on hydraulic systems. I would think the theory is the same though. https://www.grainger.com/mobile/product/PIG-Absorbent-Sock-30RC66
Yea something like that but enclosed on both ends.
I would like the name of those, too.
when i got my 555e there was no rubber oring in the cap either and water in hydrolic oil..put a new o ring and fresh hydraulic filter and no problems since.
Are these a one shot deal or are they reusable? My 575E had the o-ring missing and I used a oil cap gasket for a Volvo car I had in my old parts stock. It seemed to help for a while but I'm getting water in the tank again. Fixing to put a stop to it next Thursday. Carolina Carports is coming to build my barn with the center sized large enough for the hoe.
For what it's worth, on my Hydraulic tank, I don't recall seeing a big oring (but I didn't really look) but I did see little orings around each of the little screws that holds the filler neck on (part 20 on the picture above...). All seem like good opportunities for incursion. I too would like to know more about the socks you are talking about, how do they remove water?
I have been looking at these to hopefully get a little bit of water out. https://www.newpig.com/pig-water-hog/p/SKM407 I called and spoke with someone at the company directly and they said that they "somewhat" work. The lady told me that while it lists you will get 12 OZ of water out, this number is based on if you drop it in a fuel tank. If in a hydraulic tank, she said you will get right around half that because of the oils attaching itself to the screen. I have not purchased these yet, but plan on doing so soon. Its worth a try.......
The big o-ring i noticed was on the breather cap itself. It seals the cap to the metal flange. Without it, you will introduce the possibility of water getting into the system.
$25 a pop. I will just change my oil.
We use pig products at my work...We use mats and socks, and they work well. I have never seen that contraption. I think I would change the oil too.
I will be at the supply house tomorrow to get the name .
Has anyone changed their hydraulic reservoir breather cap to a brand other than the original OEM New Holland type? I'm looking for something with more of a benefit rather than paying $116 for the new cap +shipping and taxes. I would like something better than what their version is.
I did some measuring and it looks like the screw circle on the flange is 2-7/8". I have found a few with the 2.875 circle but most are bayonet type. The threaded types seem to be small diameter pipe threads. Donaldson lists a P171855 that might work but they don't even say what the cap type is. I wouldn't mind finding just a replacement cap that doesn't require a wrench. I looked at mine and tightened the screws and I don't think much if any water would get past the flange. This place has some if you can make out all the addons. https://hydro-craft.com/reservoirs-accessories/filler-breathers/filler-breather-assembly-kit.html
I searched the Donaldson # and found this: https://www.nriparts.com/item/p171855-assembly-tank-breather-46mm-hydraulic-filter/371030 It is a bayonet style. I would say NG for our application. Every time I have opened my cap, there has been pressure behind it, even when the machine is off. The hydrocraft shows a threaded option, then 3 different options for pressure. I honestly do not know what pressure the stock cap is rated for. I guess if the bolt pattern is good it may work. I would have to call, I couldn't figure out the model numbers. The price is much easier to stomach for sure.
Their threaded option is 3/4 NPT so it's a smaller opening.
see I was thinking about just replacing the breather itself and leaving the metal flange plate on. I was able to measure it last night and I got anywhere between 1 1/2” and 1 5/8” for the the thread size of the breather even though it’s probably metric. I never thought of removing the metal flange. Maybe that will give me more options?
Here are the picture of the water separator .You can put multi separators .They are not refillable once the are filled they are done . Image 4 is the part number my supplier uses.
Thanks Tool King, I am going to order a few, they are only $11.50 on their website. https://attconline.com/index.php/water-eliminator/ Just changing the oil never gets all the water out, because you never get all the oil out, unless you take every connection loose. Next time I change the hydraulic oil in something, I'm gonna drop one in and see what happens.
Thanks, tool_king. I looked around and found: https://painthose.com/the-water-eliminator-we1-single-7-cartridge-w-ss-lanyard/ At ~$14.00 delivered it isn't too bad. Note the size of the opening required. I also found this site: https://diesel-fuels.com/the-water-...If the unit is empty, your tank is water free . It is a little big for our application, but they explain the product well
You rock @tool_king I'll also be checking these out and grabbing a few of them! Thanks for remembering to look them up! Also, thanks @mitch504 and @Swetz for the links! Cramazon seems to have them as well. Do you guys think the 7" or 12" would be better? And, when draining my tank it appeared to me that there were baffles of some sort in the tank, am I wrong thinking that?
I dont remember any baffles, aighead. Just the filter in the middle back. The 12" is larger diameter, and will not fit in the opening. Perhaps 2 of the smaller ones?? I just measured my opening, it is 1.576". So, the 7" unit would definitely fit in. The instructions say it must lay on the bottom of the tank. Perhaps one to the front side of the baffle and one to the rear if you are looking to do 2??
the only baffles i remember are two openings on the separating plate in the middle of the tank at the very bottom. there is no way you will get on the suction side of the tank with these eliminators. i purchased 2 of them last night on amazon. i'm just going to drop them in the tank and let them ride for a week. i understand wanting them on the bottom of the tank, but if your oil is emulsified, its all through the oil, so putting one on the bottom and one halfway shouldnt make too much of a difference in my opinion.
I'm a little in question due to their test results saying there was no difference in the cloud point. Test Results Cloud Point: No significant difference was noticed between the sample with or without The Water Eliminator. Pour Point: Same as Cloud Point. Ash: Same as Cloud Point. Carbon Residue: Same as Cloud Point. Sulfur: No change in sulfur level. Copper Corrosion: No corrosion in any samples tested. Nitrogen: Same for all samples. Existent Gum: Samples tested at high temperatures tend to have higher values but the level of increase is not significant. Infrared Spectra: Examination of the spectra of each sample does not reveal any organic contamination. There is no Water Eliminator residue present in the fuel at a significant concentration to be measured by the technique employed. Distillation: The variation between samples is well within the reproducibility of the test procedure. I went ahead and bought 4 of them off Amazon. Fixing to do an oil tank change on my machine and put it in a barn. I will drop a couple of these in the tank to see if I can get total clarity.
Amazon is showing 4 left, anyone want a couple of the 7"ers before I buy them all?
Cloud point is the temperature where diesel fuel begins to gel, nothing to do with water, and, thankfully, nothing to do with me.
I'm afraid you are too late. I ordered 4 this morning. Sorry if I messed you up! EDIT: The 4 I ordered are sold by ATTC Equipment so it's a different seller.
hahahaha ATTC is going to wonder whats going on. they have had their whole stock depleted in the past 12 hours because of Tool_King. he needs a commission! I have one arriving today and 1 more on Saturday. hopefully they work!
i just got off the phone with this company. the guy was very helpful. he pointed me to this link, page 29 https://hydro-craft.com/Hydro-Craft-Reservoir-Catalog.pdf based on what i told him about the tank being roughly even, maybe slightly lower than the pump, he said he would advise a pressurized cap. He also mentioned about the threaded option not working because the 3/4 NPT that NH575E talked about. His advice would be to buy the whole bayonet assembly and be done with it. i didnt get an exact price, but he said it would be around $35-40 which is 1/3 of what New Holland wants. the only thing i need to make sure of is that the bolt pattern and screws are all the same size.
I was thinking the same thing! I'm buying the last 4,if they are still there. And... I've got 'em...
Yep same just longer.
Used my daughter's prime account to order 4. It said two day delivery when ordered and now it's split into 2 orders. Both saying next Wednesday. When you click on your link now it says not available instead of giving a different seller. Guess we wiped them all out. It will be fun to compare who gets theirs first. The race is on!
i got my first one yesterday. other is arriving tomorrow. what i thought was very interesting was that there are very LITTLE crystals in the sleeve. it seems like there might be 15-20 little white balls in there. i'm very interested to see if it expands to fill up the whole thing when its fully saturated.
Mine are not showing shipped yet. I'm not in a rush to get them but it seems Amazon missed the target on shipping on these.
Update on my purchase.... I put both of my "Water Eliminators" in the hydraulic tank on Sunday and looked at them yesterday after about 24 hours. I didn't notice much difference other than the little bit of crystals are not moving around. Obviously this is because oil has coated them and they are not dry allowing them to move freely. Hopefully the next time I go out to my property they are heavy and full with water!
Mine are showing expected tomorrow but still haven't shipped. That should be interesting. If they don't show as shipped soon I may try to cancel the order. I finally got the hydraulic filter I ordered and then I found a new spare on my shelf I had forgotten. Barn is almost finished. The guys are coming back in the morning to wrap that up so I finally have covered storage.
NH575E....We are going to need pics of that barn! Please do continue report on the water eliminators. It will be interesting to see if they remove the water that is mixed into the oil, and if 2 are able to accomplish the job.
Mine showed up yesterday... My hoe is still at my buddies house though, so I'm not sure when I'll be able to throw them in.
Got two of mine today and the other two are showing on the way but late. Not going to use the absorbent things until I do an oil and filter change. Also got my barn finished today so I can keep it out of the rain.
if you get rid of that mustang and john deere, you can fit a small dozer and mini-excavator in the smaller bays!!!
@NH575E That barn is beautiful! Good job!
Love the barn too! My wife and I are in the process of getting ready to build a house on a chunk of land we bought. I have clearance to get myself a barn. Since I live in New England I would want it fully enclosed. I think the metal building are the most cost effective. Any chance you would share the price just so I have an idea? PM me if you rather not post here.
My guess, and it's unnecessary to confirm, if you aren't comfy with it, is $23k.
Got the other two of my water absorber thingies today. Guess I came in last. edgephoto I don't want to hijack this thread any worse than I did. Will send PM on barn info.
I am curious too.
My father just built a 24x48 garage, fully enclosed sheet metal sides and roof, with a 14' garage door on one side and 10' on the other side for around 16k. This doesn't include concrete or final grading. He had the Amish build it, so its probably cheaper than a normal contractor.
14k isn't too bad!
Just changed my oil and used one of the water absorbent things. I too and very unimpressed with the amount of desiccant in these things. I'm almost tempted to waste $14 and throw one in a measured amount of water to calculate how much they absorb. The moisture in my oil (if that is what it is) was totally emulsified. I'm not sure if that is possible but no amount of time allowed it to separate and settle to the bottom. The entire volume of oil was milky but still had some clarity to it. Since you can only get about two thirds of it out by changing the tank oil and replacing the filter I thought I would go ahead and throw one of these water absorbent things in. It won't hurt anything but I have serious doubts it will help either. I HAVE read some reports of the Travelers brand oil becoming cloudy so I'm thinking that might be the issue rather than water. I don't think it's possible to get water in oil that doesn't separate with time. After changing the oil and filter and cycling all my cylinders the oil in the tank appears to still be clear. I will save the other 3 water absorbing things I bought in case I ever have a water in fuel issue.
It absolutely is possible to get water and oil mixed that never settles out. I have seen it more times than not, it seems like. I have always attributed it to the additive packages in modern oils. After all, that is part of the definition of a detergent.
I do know that auto atf will basically absorb water. I once took some trans fluid and intentionally added water in a clear glass jar. I then shook it up real good and set it on the side. Years later, the water was still mixed in the oil. It did not separate in the 5+ years I had it. I guess if they can put additives in atf that will do that, they can add them to hydraulic oil...don't know if they do, but it makes sense...water mixed in oil will lubricate much better than water separated from oil as it flows thru the system.
Update: I put both of mine in the tank on June 14th and pulled them out on 7/2. I have noticed that while the desiccant has swelled slightly, I don't notice any real difference in the fluid color. As we have all stated before, this is a long process and if even 1 OZ of water has been taken out, I am appreciative. I will continue to update as I pull them out again.
I do have a new thing I never noticed. Does anyone have any idea what these holes are on the side of the hydraulic tank? I just noticed mine recently have been leaking fluid. They are located on both the front side and back side near the rear tire. I tried sticking a screwdriver in, but only could go in 1/4 inch or so. I tried researching on the interwebs, but only could find pictures of other tanks with the same holes.
Drain holes for the tool box.
I have a friend, obsessed with Ford which has become New Holland. He doesn't do forums, but I'll pick his brain. Ford & New Holland are excellent machines, but not as common as Cat, Case & JD. They have a 655, 555, and a New Holland 75? Their 555 was an orphan, nobody seemed to own it. It got neglected 20 years, only fuel. It still functions OK. The 655 is 1987? and is the everyday around the pit workhorse. The New Holland is the machine nobody is sure where it is. In large part, it loads round bales. Always a discussion in the family which field it was last seen. My experience with other manufacturers & their hoes, the suction screen in the transaxle is something you clean, and reuse if it isn't damaged. A soft scrub brush, & solvent will clean it. A John Deere sends under vacuum from suction screen to charge pump. charge pump back rear to filter. It gets complicated then. Filter includes bypasses, but most fluid goes to 8 cylinder hydraulic pump. From main pump it goes to priority valve, then throughout the tractor for clutch, brakes, steering, loader, stabilizers, and reverser. I sure hope 555 is less complex than that.
While that is good news, I thought I found the source of the water in my tank..... back to the drawing board! Thanks for the help NH!
I never thought to look too close at mine but I guess we should check our tool boxes for holes. I know at one point mine had water standing in it because the drains were clogged. I cleaned them out and I keep chains in it.
Drains for the tool box? Hmm... I thought that that was my water incursion too, I plugged one of them up before realizing there was another hole on the back side of the tank... It seemed like a lot of fluid was coming out. I still haven't tossed my water absorbing things in yet, been messing with other stuff.
The mention got me thinking. I went ahead and cleaned my tool box out again. Didn't see any holes. I sealed the inside with rubberized undercoat and repainted over that. Probably should have used truck bed liner for more durability since I store chains in it.
This tool box is such a stupid design! How could it not get water in with the hinge and lid and no seal. Good thing they put the holes or it would be a mini swimming pool in there! cosmaar1, yours look in good condition, my holes are all rusted, I guess from water pouring out, or just crappy powder paint that de-laminates from the steel, or a little of each. NH575E, I really like your idea of bed liner. when I have some spare time, I think I will clean my toolbox and put the bed liner in.
I don't think mine leaks. First time I opened it was FULL of water because the drains were clogged.
I didn’t take a super good look when I was out today, but guys I really think they are holes for the reservoir. I do have a tube of grease in the tool box for quick use and maybe it’s leaking, but when I used the hoe today and let it sit for a few minutes while I took a break, I had quite a few drips of oil on the ground. It cannot be water as my toolbox does not have any water in it and it hasn’t rained here in about 2 weeks. Next time I am out, I will look in more detail but I thought I would share.
I wouldnt doubt that the tube of grease is what is dripping. Not only is it hot, but the oil in the tank is hot. Prolly like an oven in the toolbox. The tank is made from peaty thick steel. There would have to be a deep rust to get thru. Mine only has surface rust in it. I am definitely going to bed liner mine in the future tho...I will just have to be careful not to seal off the holes in the sides.
Swetz and everyone.... I will admit my assumption was wrong. I was able to find out that those holes indeed are drain holes for the toolbox. Back to the drawing board! As a side note, I noticed one of my boom swing cylinders was starting to leak a little bit. Looks like I'm going to have fun here soon! Yippee.... NOT!
Boo to leaks! I've apparently got some dirt occasionally getting into the seal on one of the stabilizers that likes to spray a little upon retraction. Via a video someone posted somewhere it doesn't look like as difficult a job as I was thinking to re-seal but still more work than I'd like to do...
My son & I tried to do a boom cylinder once. I built a spanner with 5' handle. Couldn't budge the gland. Slipped a 10' piece of pipe over the handle. 400 pluss pounds of human hanging from the 10' long spanner, it wouldn't budge. I had to heat it with a weed burner. Probably 250 degrees F. it started to move. It was a long fine thread, coated in red Locktite. Next day we were ready to remove the piston from the rod. A friend has a 1" impact wrench. We clattered away on it half hour, it wouldn't budge. I didn't have a spud wrench, so we went off to a hydraulic shop I had used happily before in upstate NY. They broke a few Chinese sockets before explaining the former owner took most of the tooling with him. The Case dealer in New Hampshire was willing to repair while I waited. We raced across Vermont to get there before they closed for the day. 6:00 PM we were heading home with a rebuilt cylinder. I later met a guy in a one man shop. He had a home built rig. A table for the cylinder he could anchor the tube end, there were stops to keep the gland end in place. A hydraulic cylinder hung from a track with a hollow cup on the rod end. He had homemade spud wrenches, and spanners. He'd place the cup on the end of the wrench handle, and push with the hanging hydraulic cylinder. If some fool hadn't slobbered the gland with a whole bottle of red Locktite they spin off easily once started. This guy made it look easy. He even had a 25' tall puller for trash compactor cylinders.
Well, jimoney Christmas, that sounds like quite the ordeal @Willie B . Maybe removing it and letting someone else do it is a better move...
Aighead, I would give it a whirl! Try breaking it loose prior to removing anything...you are just trying to crack it loose. If you cannot break it, then I would go to plan b and remove the cylinder and bring it to a hydraulic shop. If you can break it loose, the gland bolt is the other obstacle. I would put the rod pin back in and crank away. If that is a no go, then just take the rod assy to the shop for repair.
Here at least, there are fewer shops than broken cylinders to fix. There was until recently one hydraulic shop. They are a big trash hauler. They have a shop for their own needs, and they take on other builds, but they are always months out. Twin brothers worked there. One of the brothers went on his own. I hoped he'd take a while to build a group of customers. I had an angle cylinder for a crawler tractor needed a new tube. After it laid on the ground outside his shop a couple weeks, I called him several times over the next month. He finally admitted he didn't know if he would find time for it. A huge company had him committed to four days a week, wanted him to commit to more. I find a similar situation at other shops. Big customers feed them most of their business. They take priority. A customer needing an occasional cylinder will wait.
Well folks, I finally figured out how water got into my hydraulic system and why I kept having hydraulic oil coming out of the tool box drains. The top of the tank is rusted out! I tried uploading a video but it won’t let me paste it directly here so I snapped a photo and when the machine is running and building a little pressure, you clearly see bubbles coming from the top of the tank. This picture was taken by lifting the toolbox lid up. Being that this backhoe is about 25 minutes away from my house, looks like I’m sealing the lid and drains shut with some high temp silicone! At least I finally have an answer!!!!
Cosmaar, very interesting.. I have been trying to figure out why I have milky hydraulic oil as well... my 555e was used for pushing some snow, so there is a fair amount of rust. I’ll have to check this area for pinholes. Thanks!
A friend of our family works at a local landfill and they had a new holland backhoe with the same issue. He finally was able to pressure test the tank a few years ago and found out the back of his tank had a hole in it. It wasn’t in the same spot I just found mine. Now the pain of getting all the water out begins.
I think I caught mine in time. It was full of leaves and dirt so I cleaned it out, coated with rubberized undercoating, and repainted it. Now that I can park it out of the weather it should last a while.
Hmm... @cosmaar1 that picture is from the inside of the tool box? Mine is always damp or wet in there. I bet I have the same issue... Do I understand properly that you are just going to seal up the entire top of your tank? Hmm, again. I can't imagine a new tank isn't like a billion dollars.
No aighead, only $3300 not a billion
Shew! 3300 bucks is a lot!
A tank is a small vessel. Only a small portion is bad. If the dealer can't sell you a replacement at an acceptable cost, fix it, or make new. Few of the machines I have ever owned are pristine. Most have been revived from death. It isn't unusual for a machine to sit in one place years. A bottom of tank corrosion hole is expected. Use all precautions to clean combustible hydrocarbons from the tank, set fire to it. Fix it. Most tanks have one corrosion hole, several more are months shy of leaking. Figure out where your corrosion is. Cut it away. Now that you have a hole in your tank, clean it!!!! Without exception, holes are in a corner. I look about for something shaped like the missing piece. Propane tanks are sometimes donors. Cut, or pound a replacement piece. Grind away anything in the way. Weld it back in. I always Tig. my sons reject TIG, it isn't fast. A $3300. project becomes Saturday morning......maybe 3:00PM.
Since it's in the top of the tank I would clean it good and seal the floor of the tool box with something. I scraped mine and wire brushed then cleaned it out good with brake cleaner to get it clean and dry. I used rubberized undercoat in mine but it wasn't leaking. If I were you I would epoxy coat or fiberglass the inside. Paint it back with yellow so you can keep an eye on it.
JB Weld may be your friend here...gotta get rid of all oil residue tho. I was never a fan of this kind of stuff, but used on my truck oil pan and it is holding for a year now.
Yes it is. I used to have a tube of grease in the tool box and I figured it was oily because of the grease. A week or so ago I finally was able to clean it out, use degreaser, and get it looking good. I used the machine for about 25 minutes to let it dry out and when I was done, the whole box was wet again. I'm like ***. I was working with my dad last week and I had the lid open and noticed oil all over the door. When I looked closely, as he was using the machine and it was building pressure, the bottom of the tool box was bubbling oil. I do not have the means right now to replace the tank nor do I want to spend another $500 in oil that I just replaced 3 months ago, but I bought high temp, oil resistant silicone and I am going to seal the lid shut so no water can get in. I could care less about using the toolbox, so to me this is the bandaid I am going to use until I am able to cut out the bad areas and replace with new metal. Attached is a picture I found on the internet of a similar tool box. I am going to run beads of silicone on the inside (red arrows), close the toolbox, then fill in the gaps with more. I will probably leave the drain holes open to allow the oil that seeps out a place to go.
To be honest NH, there is nothing to bond the paint or filler to. That's why I am going to seal it shut for now. At least keep the water out.
As I mentioned before, I too have pin holes in the tool box compartment... I’m thinking of closing the lid to the tool box, and running a bead of weld around it to seal it shut. Then weld over the weep holes too. Thoughts? I wouldn’t care about losing that little tool box, and it seems like it would seal up the hydraulic thank nicely..
It's your hoe but I would (and did) seal up the inside of the box and keep the weep holes open.
I was trying to think of something that would seal up the Inside tool box area... the problem I see is that when the fluid gets hot I’m guessing the tank builds some pressure, and I’m not sure something like glue or silicone would hold. It would also be a pain to get the inside of the tool box down to bare metal to bond silicone or glue. Did yours rust out too? What did you use to seal it?
I don't think mine had any holes. I just scraped and wire brushed mine then wiped it out with brake cleaner. I didn't try to get bare metal. I used rubberized undercoating and put several coats in it but I'm sure there are better products. I think SWETZ put truck bed liner in his. I use my tool box for storing chains. Not sure how i would approach the problem if I had pin holes. Just looked for an epoxy type sealer and found this stuff but if the holes were too big it might flow into the tank before it cured. https://www.amazon.com/Epoxyseal-El...=1&keywords=epoxy+seal&qid=1612222702&sr=8-15
Cleaning is the big job! Once you remove it, clean it, grind it, weld it, clean it again, paint it, reassemble, welding is a small part of the job.
csthompson12, It seems that this is a poor design on the part of new holland. The tool box is all but worthless as well! On my new holland 675E tractor I sanded/wire brushed the rust, then put POR-15 on it, followed with pickup truck bed liner. It seems to have taken care of the poor design. I still really do not use the tool box though as it leaks and everything inside rusts. Anyhow, if it were me, I would try to repair the leak rather than trying to weld the thing solid. Perhaps some JB-weld?? I used it on the bottom of my oil pan on my truck a little less than a year ago, and no leaks yet. What I did was wire wheel it, put a shop vac on the oil fill, then cleaned with brake cleaner, then applied the JB-Weld. I let the shop vac run for like a half hour or so, as the JB-Weld cured. To me, this is worth a shot. If this was unsuccessful, I think I would try to weld the rusted out area.
I found silicone on amazon that is rated for high temp and oil/water resistant. i caked it all around the gap of the toolbox and sealed it shut for now. Whenever I have a chance (probably not anytime soon), i plan on taking the tank off, cutting out the toolbox area and getting rid of it entirely. mine was so bad, there was no way to fix it. my main concern was stopping the water from going inside the tank, which i think i have fixed.... for now.
I hope that works for you cosmaar1!
Just bought a 555E for cheap. Checked the dipstick thinking it was to the hydraulic reservoir it was clear. Roaded it to my place about 3 hours. Halfway started to notice a squeal seemingly coming from the pump. Once home i figured out the dipstick goes to the transmission, Checked hydraulic tank and discovered milkshake. Have rusty toolbox but cap releases pressure when opened, haven't figured out where or why water got in. Maybe condensation where it'd been parked outside and not run much for the last 15 years? My plan is to replace the two tank gaskets, cap o ring, clean and paint/bedliner toolbox, drain reservoir, clean return filter, refill, replace new main filter, run the machine draining old fluid through return lines on the cylinders, drain and refill reservoir, change filter again and go. What am I missing or what can I do better? Have 3 new filters, 40 gal universal hydraulic fluid matching 134D spec (is aw46 better)? What's the word on the bead socks would it be worthwhile putting one in after the final fill?