Hello everyone. First post here. Ive been lurking and gaining information and Id like to thank all of you for all the posts. I scored this old 955K at a local auction not too long ago. I plan on using it to clear brush on my hunting ranch. It has been outfitted with a blade from a D5 or D6 but did come with the original bucket which is in good shape. The engine (D330C I believe?) runs well and makes good power. It is rather beat up an definitely needs a bit of maintenance. I started by changing all the fluids and filters and cleaned the screens as well. Dropped the belly pans and cleaned out all the crud(not a fun job when you inadvertently parked it on an antpile). I also made a support bar for the arms so I could work on it without fearing the guillotine over my head. The original safety bar wont work as someone welded a huge patch over the loader frame keeping the bar from engaging the pin. undercarriage is in good shape although the left track is sagging a bit and wont firm up no matter how much grease I pump in. Ill have to address that problem soon as I fear a broken spring or bad tensioner piston. I started to get warm the first time I worked it and had to stop several times to let cool at idle. When I got it back to the shop it was squirting coolant from several pin holes in the radiator core. The core was badly plugged up so I decided to yank the nose off and rebuild the radiator. Upon teardown, I realized that somewhere along the line someone put a radiator from a 955L model (im guessing) as it had a full length hydraulic cooler 5" wide taking up space where the radiator should be. The cooler lines were plugged and it was not in use, just taking up the space. So Im getting a new core the correct size and attempting to use the original top and bottom tanks. I do have one question for all you cat experts out there. The oil filter base under the oil cooler is the old type which uses a plain paper element. Id like to convert to a spin on filter for ease of oil changes. Does anyone know the part number of a filter base which uses a spin on filter and will mount to my existing oil cooler? Thanks in advance. Evan Q.
So here's some pics of the radiator removal operation. I was able to put the forks of my Kubota under the blade and chain lift the entire nose and lower it to the ground. I then untied it and went back at an angle between the blade support and tracks and lifted it again from one fork and put it in my pickup to take it to my shop for dissasembly. Also some shots of the plugged oil cooler and plugged up radiator core. Someone has been using way too much stop leak on this poor old girl. E.
Nasty!
What? Do you want coolant to flow through that red core or something?
Now that is one odd set of mods as I have seen. Kind of curious as to the cut down dozer shoes and the 6 blade adapted to the loader.
Should be a 3304 engine and not the d330. Also u have the d5 undercarriage.
Workshoprat92, How do you tell the difference between the D330 and the 3304? Ive heard conflicting info as to the K and L models having the 2 different engines. Dmiller, Yeah she is kinda different. And yes, I believe it does have the D5 undercarriage. Kshansen, Exactly! Its a wonder it was cooling even at all. The core had about 60% blockage Anyone know about the oil filter base change? Evan Q.
That series of 955 is to new to have a d330. The older 955k might have had a d330 but it was the model that you had to climb over the dump cylinders to get in it. Plus this machine is basically a 955l only i think the k had a little faster hydraulic system. Long and short is your machine is not right series or age to have a d330
Any more info on this? Are you looking to change from a cartridge to spin on filter or is it something else? Any chance for a complete S/N, both machine and engine? Numbers always help!
Machine Ser# is 85J2159 Looking to change from a cartridge to a spin on. I dont mind changing the filter base as the cartridge one I have is pretty beat up and leaks quite a bit. Where is the engine serial located? Thanks Evan Q.
There 3306 engines I'm more familiar with have a tag, if I recall right, just below the top of the block on the right side toward the back. If tag is missing Cat usually stamped the numbers in to the block but they can be hard to see on some.
Kshansen, Thanks. I ll check it out next time Im down at the ranch. Tractor is 3 hours from home, thats why I brought the nose back home to work on it. Got better tools at my regular shop. Ive done alot of work on a D7F in the past but its been a long time. I think I converted that one to a spin on filter as well. but it was just a simple matter of using the filter base from a D7G, fit right up. I just dont know if the early and late 3304 engines use the same oil cooler which will dictate what filter base to use. Thanks in advance. Evan Q.
Oh and btw, for all you sharp eyed picture lookers out there. Yes indeed I broke several bolts getting the radiator apart. Got some thread chasing to do on the rebuild.
85J should be a 955L. I could be wrong but i do t think any of the Ks had a 85J prefix. Again i could be wrong. Still i think it would be a 3304 engine. I do t think anything 85J had a d330 engine.
Well all be I could be wrong. Not sure when they switched to the 3304 engine. Mine is a 85j10889 and it has the 3304 engine. I am not sure how acurate this info is. http://www.ritchiewiki.com/wiki/index.php/Caterpillar_955K/955L_Crawler_Loader
Well it could be a 3304 engine given the number of modifications made to this machine. Im pretty sure the nose and radiator came off a later L model. The hour meter actually works after I replaced the view lens. It currently reads only 637. the decals on the fuel tank (I know, not really relevant) do say 955K, not L Ill have to get the serial off the motor next time down to find out for sure. Evan Q.
Yea its hard to tell just by looking at them. They were so similar really. The 3304 is a bigger engine physically. Yea the only for sure way to tell is by serial number.
Does Nige know about the oil filter base thing? Evan Q.
85J2159 is a K with a D330c engine, they became the L series at 85J4672, when the 3304 was also introduced. The engine serial tag is on the left rear side of the block just below the head. If it still has the D330c, the engine serial will match that of the machine, individual engine series didn't come in until the 33xx series engines.
Thanks Rusted. Ill check it out. Evan Q.
Further to my last; as yours has the canister type filter it has to be a D330c as all 3304's are spin on. The most common reason for the leaking on the older type is people don't change the rubber seal in the body when they change the element, and after a while they go hard and leak.
Thanks Rusted. I changed the seal up in the filter base. Its leaking from where the 2 tubes go into the rear of the base. There is a beat up bolt holding the tubes on and I think the threads are stripped not allowing it to compress the o-ring seals on the tubes properly. Evan Q.
Hi FW190D9. I have an older brother of your loader--mine is 955K S/N 85J01360. For a detailed answer to your question, take a look here: HeavyEquipmentForums
Thanks CavinJim. Lots of good info there. Looks like a I do have the 330C engine in my machine. Hats off to Nitelite for an awesome restoration of his 951C. I hope I can make my old 955 look half as good. Evan Q.
Well I did some digging on SIS and they show the engine oil cooler core to be a 7S6395 with a cartridge filter head mounted to the bottom. I then looked in NPR and see where the 7S6395 cooler core changes to the 7N0165 cooler core. Looking in the 955L cooler/filter section it shows the 7N0165 cooler core with the filter head for a spin on filter mounted to the bottom. So it would appear that the cartridge and spin on filter heads could be exchanged on the cooler cores. The filter head, or as Cat calls it the "filter base" for the spin on filter is a 1P6448. In NPR this 1P6448 shows as being replaced by a 2W6681 base, 2 8N6985 gaskets, 2 8N6986 covers and 3 1B9575 bolts. Can sound very complicated with all those numbers but if one could find a newer engine say a 3304 or 3306 the filter head should be an easy swap. Some versions of the heads might have extra ports for different applications and also some have pressed in plugs where others, like the original 1P6448 might have threaded in steel plugs.
Kshansen, thanks so much! thats exactly the info I needed. I was pretty sure the later L models had a filter base the same dimensions with a spin on type filter. As long as it bolts to my existing oil cooler I should be good to go. Thanks again! Ill post pics when I get it all assembled. Evan Q.
BTW, Happen to know the part number of the spin on filter that goes with that base? Thanks Evan Q.
That filter head took the original number 2P4004 that has be replaced by the 1R0739 filter, and if you are using Donaldson filters that would be a P554004.
Thank you sir! I was able to get all the parts to rebuild the radiator. Question, what kind of lube or sealant goes on the gaskets between core and tank? thanks Evan Q.
You won't want any lubricant on the gasket as the internal pressure when running could force it out and cause leaks. I used a sticky mess called Indian Head gasket sealant for years but came to find it was most likely not preferred as most shops used High Tack sealant, either would likely work well. You do with any sealant need to give it some cure time prior to installing coolant and running the engine building pressure.
Maybe something like Permatex gasket seal? E.
You want something that says High Tack. That way the gasket will stick to the part and it won't move around during assembly. I've become a big fan of loctite 534 sticks and sticks in general. I'm a terror with a big bottle of anti-sieze. Left to my own devices, I'll come out looking like the tin man.
Thanks Hvy1ton. Ill look for some high tack sealant. Got the core in today. I almost had a heart attack when I saw what Cat wanted for a radiator core. I called Superior as they were close to me in Texas and ordered up a new core that is the correct size as I wont be reinstalling the useless oil cooler. Price was good and the core looks pretty well made. Great service too as I had it 2 days after ordering. I also found a used upper radiator plate that connects the core to the upper tank. Cat no longer makes this part but the used parts guy at the Cat dealer found one in good shape for me. The big pile of dirty parts I brought home with me is steadily getting smaller as I blast each one, prime and paint. Hopefully this rebuilt radiator will handle the south texas heat. E.
"FW190D9, That new core will never work! Look at all those holes in the ends. Coolant will run right down through the center and end up in the bottom tank!
OH NO! E.
It will flow too fast and still overheat as the water won't cool, fill those extra holes with epoxy or mud or sumpin!!!
With summer heat in the 105 deg range, This old girl needs as much cooling as she can get. Havent worked on any Cats in bout 15 years. Been working on aircraft and cars too long. Call me crazy but this is actually fun! E.
Well if you get that 955K air-born stay away from my house, they do lots of damage when landing!
Everyone's getting into the flying vehicle game these days. Sure would save on over-the-road transportation costs! And give a whole new meaning to "PTO"!
You know that made me think about the cargo weight say a 747 could carry. I looked it up and found it was a payload capacity of 154 tons! And that doesn't, as far as I know, include the weight of the plane. Kind of make you think when you see one flying overhead! And that is no where near the biggest freight hauling plane out there.
What always amazes me are the heavy lift copiers. The Russian Mi-26 can easily move the 955K. And supposedly Russia and China are working on a helicopter that'll lift 80,000 lbs... doesn't sound like much, but that's a lot of air to move!
Those heavy lifters are awesome. Ive built several full size airplanes along with a fleet of scale r/c warbirds. Here's a pic of my Fw190D13 I built from scratch in 1/4 scale.
The Mi-26 can sling load the equivalent of a C-130 max payload. Only helicopter cooler than the Mi-26 is the Mi24. That's a pretty sweet 1/4 scale.
And we are not suppose to ever work under a suspended load? Yet these guys might be flying overhead?
Not trying to hijack this thread, no pun intended... Speaking of the MI-26, here's some pictures I took of one back in '07 at the Galore Creek Mine project... What a machine!!! I have more if anyone is interested.
I am still impressed with the old CH64 and CH47 Sikorsky's. Not nearly as impressive as the Mil series of heavy lifters but still impressive.
Silly boy, those loads aren't suspended, they're dangling!
Suspended, hangin' or dangling I don't want them over my head!
Exactly why I built that orange(only rattle cans I had lying around) support pole. Very aware of that huge blade over my head every time I work on the old girl. Finally finished blasting and priming all the front end parts. Gonna spray some Cat yellow tomorrow. Also got to play with one of my other toys. Did a little road work out at the ranch. Still a beginner but starting to get the hang of this road crowning process. E.
Got the rest of the parts sprayed this morning. Gotta love cat yellow in the gallon can. Thinned it 10% and it lays down nicely. E.
Gotta love that deluxe spray booth!
Thanks Metalman. Its one of those paint booth kits from an autobody supplier. Came on 2 big pallets and took 2 days to bolt together. Really handy for painting parts as well as vehicles. E.
Finally had time to reassemble the radiator with new core. Some differences from old to new I had to figure out. One of the radiator support blocks had to be shaved down to accomodate the new wider core. The new assembly is also an inch longer than the old L model rad that was installed. This necessitated re-configuring the lower rad mount to function and still keep the fan shroud in the right place. Might have to get a longer lower radiator hose as well. Nice having the whole rad so it can be worked on while standing. Old knees dont like being on the concrete for long. Got happy with the anti-sieze and new grade 8's E.
And married it back with the nose.
Looking really good there, I would be searching the yards and find the grill covers for the hardnose once you get time to protect that investment!
Agree, looks great!
Thanks Guys! Ive got the grill covers at the ranch. I didnt bring em home as the nose and hood took up the whole back of the truck. Plan is to pretty em up after I put the nose back on. Again, a big thanks to all you guys on here for sharing your extensive knowledge! E.
Good deal, guards screens are a necessity!
Evan ; Is that your FW190D9 that is your avatar ?
Tinkerer, Yeah, thats one of them. That one is actually a FW190 D13. Its a 1/4 scale model of an existing aircraft. The real one is one of 2 survivors of the D model that made it over here in '45 for eval. It languished in a farmer's backyard for many years before being found and restored. Its now on display at the Flying Heritage collection up in Seattle. Took 7 years to build that model as it was completely from scratch. Build pics on my website: http://evoshangar.homestead.com/home.html Evan Q.
Good grief Evan ! I spent some time on your website today. Your skills and attention to details is beyond awesome !
Thanks Tinkerer! Next project is a 1/4 scale TA 152 with a 3 cylinder inline 4 stroke. Wingspan will be 144" . Going to compete at Top Gun in Florida with that one. E.
The CH-47 Chinook is built by Boeing, not Sikorsky. After over 50 years, it still an army staple, albeit after many upgrades and newer models. The CH-54A and CH54B (Flying Crane/Tarhe) are Sikorskys, and are no longer in the Army system. I have a bit of time in the Crane, much less in the Chinook. Lift abilities in all are somewhat balanced against the fuel on board, as max gross weight means exactly that. The MI-26 is a hoss of a helicopter. Neill
My mistake, Been away from av equipment way too long!!
No, no, no, DMiller. I apologize to you if in any way my earlier post sounded if I were trying to correct you. I appreciate your bringing up cargo helicopters, for I, a pencil-pushing lurker who so greatly enjoy your and others' posts, so seldom have a chance to contribute to this wonderful forum, that hss been made so by you and others. Neill
Now that the rad is done, I can get after those other pesky problems that need attention. The fan was in rough shape after striking who knows how many objects in its life. All 6 blades were curled up at the edges and starting to crack. I heated up each individual blade, pounded it flat and got all the ripples out and straightened each blade before lightly trimming the edges. I took a length measurement of the worst blade and made all the others match. Hopefully it wont be too far out of balance.
The hood was in rough shape as well. Several big cracks and the hinges on both access doors were bent all to hell. Gave these areas a little attention as well. hammered all the bumps out of the radiator and oil fill door and put new stainless hinges on both. E.
Have similar issues on Fat Allis, the old machine has seen some rough days where the fan hit the screen shrouding. I have used motorcycle wheel balancing equipment to check fan balance to get it within reason, can use hub and all but have to remove the support shaft to set it up. Then all you need is a shaft or cones that will fit snug to the hub bearings, two jack stands and patience.
Thanks DMiller. I balance my model props the same way. Sand a bit off the heavy blade till it stays put in any position in 360 deg. The other thing Ive got going is that my water pump is gear driven separately from the fan. If its out of balance it will kill the bearings on the fan support but wont affect the water pump. E.
On the Whopty Choppers! We are in the fly zone for the ANG here, they follow close to the river from STL to FLW and the Jeff City NG port. Usually see 2-6 Blackhawks in a week but today two Chinooks flew by. They stay around a thousand feet above high points but not much more keeping commercial traffic zones clear.
Finally got the nose bolted up. Took it all the way down to the ranch only to find it didnt fit! The new K core is 1" longer than the L core that was installed. Turned out the bottom radiator tank would hit the loader frame. I brought it back to the shop and made 1" spacers for where the upper core mounts are and got 4 longer bolts. This moved the radiator up 1" in the frame. Now I know why the upper hood inspection door has a relief for the radiator cap! Anyhow, Bolted it up and filled with water and coolant. No leaks! Started it and ran it for a while to confirm thermostat operation. Everything working as it should. Even the hood got some love with a complete strip and re-paint. Really tempted to take it out and kill some mesquite trees but might have to address a leaky cylinder first. Pics Evan Q.
Big thanks to Kshansen for providing all the part numbers for the oil filter base thing. Got it all installed and it works great! Easy oil changes from now on. E.
Some nice work going on here
Be a really good machine when you get it ready.
Glad to be of a little help! Looks good!
I was soo impressed. I was following a thread started by a FW190 OWNER, and then a former Tarhe driver chimes in. It is plain that I hang around the right places. I am still impressed, even though the FW is 1/4 scale. It is still very nice. I did not realize that there were any Tarhe drivers still among us. Keep us in the loop as you work on your 955. Regards, Clark
Thanks Clark! Will do. I think the next project Ill tackle after the cylinder repack will be the exhaust system. Several of the manifold to head gaskets are blown out and most of the parts are heavily pitted. Ive already started getting parts together for it. Gonna be interesting for sure! E.
Cat used to sell a epoxy/metal filler compound that will machine like steel. Used in small quantity we used to refill the movement erosion wear on 3208 injector pump to engine block surfaces. If still available could use to fill head to manifold pitted erosion. Check with the parts guys.
Thanks DMiller. Ill pick some up if I need it. I already have a new manifold and elbow. Still need the coupler between the elbow and turbo. E.
Not to wish bad luck on you but those exhaust studs like to snap when removing nuts! I would heat those nuts till red before trying to turn them. Then after they do break I have had good luck holding a nut against the head and welding it to the broken stud let it cool a bit then try turning. If it starts to turn then stops soak with penetrate or as Nige always suggested while it is still hot melt some candle wax into it. Another trick with a broken stud is to hold a washer, in this case a 3/8 inch, next to the head and weld to the stud and washer then use a little bigger nut and weld that to the stud and washer. Sometimes it takes a few tries but most times they will come out. Only once did we have to get Cat out with a special drill guide and cobalt drill bit on a 3408. That one had run for over a year with the manifold leaking, some bosses can be like that!
Thanks for the tips! Thats exactly why I said it should be interesting. Most of the exhaust nuts are corroded away. I knew right away that they were bound to break off. Im hoping I can do all this without disturbing the injection pump. Gonna be tight. Evan Q.
I did this on a 3306 in a loader a couple years back and did not remove the pump, thnk I did remove the injector lines. On the 3306 the manifold mount holes are actually slots with large thick washers under the nuts. All but the one at the front cover of the engine are vertical, that one is horizontal. So you just loosen then up good and lift the flywheel end of the manifold and slid it towards the back of engine to remove. Same thing when reinstalling. You can install gaskets washers and nuts then carefully slip manifold in place. Looks like yours; has two different length studs. 7 of the 7S6719 and one of the 8M1871( this is a shorter one). Nuts are 1B5355 and washers are 8M7145. Just noticed that that manifold uses lock plates with the nuts. I would replace the 1B5355 nuts with the 2N2766 locking nuts like the newer 3306 uses and forget about those lock plates.
Had to replace my manifold shortly after getting it, was able to remove without removing the pump. Did have a few snap off, only one was a real bear
For some reason if you have a stud break and use a TIG to weld a nut to it then allow it to cool they seem to back right out. I do not have such extravagance use a wire feed and have almost as good luck.
The Tig I have here at the shop worked great on all the broken 3/8th bolts on the radiator blocks. Its a miller synchrowave 250 mig/stick combo. I am planning on getting another to keep at the ranch now that Ive got all this old iron to piddle with. Need to get a good gas axe as well. I figure once I get all the cylinders re-packed where its parked outside, Ill back it into the ranch barn so I can do the exhaust inside. Gonna be kinda warm down there this summer. E.
The 3306 I did I used my little wire feed 120 volt Lincoln on it. Liked using that as I was able to get right in there without worrying about touching anything I did not want to make sparks on! A couple of the studs needed two or three tries but in the end all came out. I did the same trick getting a couple broken bolts out of the manifold of a little Kubota in a skidsteer. I find that using a slightly larger nut works a bit better as you can put the heat to it with out melting the nut as bad.
Did you use flux core wire on the little lincoln mig? I have the same little lincoln 120v welder, just dont wanna mess with carting an argon tank around. E.
To remove the studs on my motor, I used flux core wire mig. Have one which gave me a lot of trouble, but to remove, I welded a hawser on to the flush stud, then welded a nut on the washer. This applied enough heat to remove it. Was using a 220V Hobart but a 120 should have no issue, because I could not able to turn the heat that high
Got to head down to the ranch with the wifey for a few days. Had alot of other stuff to do so didnt get time to wrench on the 955. I did manage to fire it up and let it warm before trundling around the compound and moving a bit of dirt around. Happy to report the cooling system is working well under load. Stayed in the green after 30 min of working it, even with 99 deg ambient temps. Also managed to put new decals on the nose. It just looks "right" now. I decided to give it a name as well. Both my sister and one of my daughters have cats that are named Mo. So I decided to name my CAT "Mo" as well. My daughter even made me a decal for it. Snapped a few pics. I keep the arms up on the support pole as it keeps my lift cylinders from leaking so much. Still need to put those new seals in. Evan Q.
So here's a question for you guys with experience. Mo is the first tracked vehicle I have driven with a pedal steer. The old D7F I used to run was a lever steer. When I first backed Mo off the trailer, I was pushing the pedals hard enough to engage the brakes which work fine. I didnt know that lightly pushing the pedals was supposed to disengage the steering clutches allowing the machine to veer. When I tested it today, I had it about 95% throttle, in 2nd gear and when I lightly pressed each pedal it would veer in the appropriate direction(but not alot, only a slight veer). When I fully depressed the pedal, it would brake the track and turn tight like I believe it should. My question is how much should the machine veer in this situation? i.e. 95% throttle and 2nd gear. It only veered a little bit, not alot. Visualize like 2 degrees over 50yrds or so. It did veer a bit more when climbing an incline, but still not alot. When I dug the blade in hard in 1st, it would spin the tracks and when I pushed each pedal in(first 3 inches of travel, not braking) , it would spin the other track. This confirms that the steering clutches are working but it just seems to me like it should veer a bit more when only one track is powered. My fear is that the clutches are not fully disengaging forcing me to use more brake to turn thereby wearing the brakes prematurely. I have not done any work to the steering system other than to top off the oil level and clean out the suction screen which was pretty clogged up. Anybody got any insight on this or am I just barking at shadows?
Barking at shadows. When you are going straight on flat ground, there's not much incentive to turn. Pushing, say, the right pedal in enough to disengage the clutch won't do much. The left side will drive it almost straight--with just a little bit of veering as you've noted. But, if you are going up or down an incline things will be a bit different since our old friend Gravity will provide some steering torque. If you are going uphill (in my experience a bit more than a gentle grade) and press the right pedal just enough to disengage the right clutch then the left track will drive it into a turn to the right (the right side is wanting to stop as it's being pulled back downhill by gravity). Going downhill the situation is reversed. If the hill is steep enough that there's some engine braking, disengaging the right side will allow that side to overrun the left and it'll steer to the left. At least that's what is supposed to happen--but I've never been brave enough to check it out! It all boils down to rolling resistance. A tracked machine going straight wants to keep going straight. With my 955 going on level ground I have to engage the brake on the side I want to turn towards. It is possible to finesse the turn by letting the brake slip and do a gradual turn (and that really depends on what it's setting on--loose ground steers more easily). But I tend to prefer a more herky-jerky turn and lock the brake briefly then let off completely. End result is the same, but to me a locked brake isn't wearing as much as a slipping brake. If anyone has suggestions on that, I'm all ears! But what you're describing, FW, is exactly what I've experienced.
That's how it should operate normally. That said, it wouldn't hurt to go through adjusting the steering clutch/brake on both sides since who knows the last time it was done. To test the clutches are disengaging, get up to speed and push both pedals far enough to to disengage the clutches but not hit the brakes, it should coast to a stop in a straight line.
Guys, Thanks a bunch. That explains a alot! Sounds like she is operating like she was meant to. The several hours I have operated this maching have been exactly that, herky-jerky turn with briefly locked brakes. Just wanted to make sure I was doing it right. E.
That is the one aspect a hydro has over a direct drive, can feather controls much easier.
Sorry I missed that question, but Alldodge answered it for me! Yes I just used the flux core as at that time I had not sprung for the gas kit. PS: Nice looking machine!
Well its too hot down here to dive this puppy much so I went ahead and tore into the hydraulics. Managed to pull both lift cylinder pistons for seal replacement as they were leaking pretty good. Since the arms are supported on the pole, I pushed both pins out(they came out easily as they were well greased), and supported the rams in a more or less horizontal position by using straps over the loader arms. The bolts holding the fronts of the cylinders in were pretty dang tight. They just laughed at my wimpy 3/4" harbor freight impact gun. Went to home depot and got a 10' piece of gas pipe to use a cheater. Worked a treat. I then backed the bolts a couple of turns out and disconnected the hydraulic hard lines from the mounts (where they transition from flex to hard line) to allow the cylinder head to move forward. Fired it up(did I say how nice it is to have a working glow plug system?) and gently bumped the lift control until the pistons were at the stops. A quick bump and both heads moved out of the cylinders until they hit the loosened bolts. I then wrapped a strap thru the pin end of the piston and tied it to the Kubota and gently backed up until each one popped free of the bore while still being suspended by the straps. I missed the bucket placement on the first one so it made a bit of a mess. Second one I caught most of the fluid. Id like to rebuild them myself but I gotta go back to CAT anyway as they gave me the wrong seal kit. Might see how much they want to just replace the seals. Once I get these done Ill tackle the tilt cylinders. PIcs Evan Q.
Might be worth it as those nuts holding the pistons on are a little bit more than finger tight! Just hope that those cylinders are not like a couple I had to rebuild over the years. Seems in some applications the threaded end of the ram will bottom out in the cylinder and some operators don't know that and will slam them down pretty hard. Then what happens is the end of the ram will get ever so slightly mushroomed. To the eye it looks fine, but...... when you try to remove the big nuts they turn off a couple turns then get tight on the expanded threads. If that happens what we have done is to very carefully torched the nut off then take the rams to a machine shop and have them re-cut the threads where they are mushroomed. Another option would be to figure out where the nyloc will end on the nut and grind away the threads that would be outside of the nyloc. Seems some rams did come made that way from the factory as I recall a few with a short un-threaded end on the ram.
Great advice Kshansen. Ill check the threaded ends closely. Evan Q.
Problem is sometimes the distortion is not readily visible and you only realize it when the nut starts to turn easy and then gets tight on the expanded threads. Should add that out of the dozens I probably worked on only recall a hand full at the most with the problem. So fingers are crossed that this will not be the case on your's.
So long as the nylock can function should not come loose, for that matter if need be and you don't plan on reentering those cylinders, peen a small dent on the threads so they cannot unscrew without significant effort after assembled. Input shaft nut on Fuller transmissions would be peened into side grooves to lock them in place, a bear to get loose but the nut is always softer than the shaft.
One other thing to consider, this machine has had the blade on it for a real long time. In order to bottom out the rams, that blade would have to be really far below track/ground level. Also, I took a good look down the bore with a flashlight and there were no marks on the bottom end where the shaft might hit. Ill still pay close attention when I get the nuts loose. E.
And the saga of "Mo" continues. Good news and bad. Went to harbor freight and bought a cheapie 1" impact gun and a ebay 3 1/8" socket. Fired it up and it zipped off the piston nuts with ease. Definitely been off before. The threaded ends were fine, no mushrooming at all. The seals looked pretty worn and there was some small slivers of tin foil like substance caught in the main bore seal. Dunno if it was trash in the system or what. Pretty sure that's why it was leaking so bad, keeping the seal lip from riding on the rod. I took pics of everything to make sure I get it all back in right and removed all the seals. Did some checking and found out the cylinders are for sure off an "L" model and not a "K" as my serial number dictates. Good thing I got the "L" parts book also. The "L" cylinders are very different than the "k". As such, the seal kits I got from CAT definitely wont fit. The cylinder heads have some wear grooves in them. Dont know if that will affect operation much. Progress! but I gotta go back to CAT parts to get the right seals. E.
Difference between the "K" and "L" parts book. The one with the star in the corner is the "L" which cylinders I have. Also a pic of the trash that was caught in the main bore seal E.
Good you have the parts books. I've had issues with parts but also have access to SIS. Might want to see if you can gain access from your local CAT dealer. One of these days I'm going to need to rebuild my cylinders also.
Well that was easy! I was worried I wouldnt be able to get the rods back into the cylinders by myself but it turned out to be a no brainer. I suspended the rods with click straps from the loader arms and got each one into position at the opening of the cylinder, doused each piston with clean hydraulic oil and a couple of gentle taps with the BFH and they slid right in. Gave the piston heads a gentle tap and they went in far enough to get the bolts started which drew the head in the rest of the way. Added 5 gal of hydraulic oil to system and worked the air out and Voila! leak free lift cylinders! I guess Ill tackle the tilts next. E.
Great, just a little love tap from the BFM
Yea, usually about the hardest part about rebuilding Cat cylinders is getting the nuts off that hold the piston on. Well unless you are removing the complete cylinder say on a 980G and the lower pins have not been removed in ten years! 30 ton jack pushing and a 50 ton pulling and still took lots of heat!
NEWBIE TO SITE im looking to replace transmission oil cooler on 955l . So a what has to come off to get it out be awesome! just bought everything works , but been sitting,so im fixing as i go .
If youre talking about the torque converter cooler, Its on the side of the engine on mine. Pretty simple to get it off and inspect it. Its probably clogged with radiator seal like mine was. Evan Q.
Worked Mo around the compound a bit last week and blew the seal on one of the tilt cylinders. Time to rebuild them now too. Both came out pretty easy. Supported by the forks on the Kubota and yanked em out with a chain pulled by my hunting truck. E.
Good old Old iron, guarantee for something to do everyday!
its transmission cooler on side of radiator about 5in wide as tall as radiator.
If your machine is a 955L then yes, that is the torque converter cooler. I dont think any of the 955s have an actual transmission cooler. The torque converter cooler on your machine is a 5" wide radiator as tall as the engine radiator. Its a bear to take off but can be done. I think youll have to remove the fan, fan shrouds and front grills to access the mount bolts. My early K model had that cooler installed although it was plugged off and not in use. I have the old style cooler on the side of the engine.
TY that sucks , but at least now i know .
Perhaps you are referring to a cooler like this on the side of the radiator like on our D6C Dozer? Is yours leaking oil? On our D6 the cooler was not working well (allowing it to run hot), so we pulled it off & straightened all the fins & I believe flushed it. It worked much better after that. It seems to me that on the D6 that the cooler either was not still available or the price was very high. Ours was not leaking.
That would be a definite plus on my old machine. The torque cooler is engine style on mine, engine heats as the torque converter heats, old ongoing issue with the old Allis machines.
Metalman, Yeah, the Torque cooler on the L model is just like that one on the D6C. My machine has a weird mix of K and L parts on it so I bought the parts books for both. For example, the Tilt cylinders I'm rebuilding right now correlate to the L model, not the K which my Serial suggests. Big differences between the 2 as the L model piston heads have 3 seals and the K model heads only have 2. I'm beginning to suspect poor old Mo is kinda a Frankenstein. Crap, did I say that out loud? E.
Got the 2 tilt cylinders rebuilt. The seals were toast, came out in pieces. Blasted the piston heads and thoroughly cleaned and painted everything before installing new CAT two part seals and new wipers. Ready to get Mo back in business . Evan Q.
Just got round to reading this thread. A comment about the epoxy mixercups. Cat don’t sell chemical products any more (stopped in 2014 iirc) but Loctite do, your local Cat dealer should have a pdf document that gives the Loctite reference for all the chemical products. I have plenty of recent experience of that epoxy and it does work very well.
Thanks for stopping in Nige! I hope my humble wrenching on the ol 955 lives up to your standards! Evan Q.
Second go round went much easier. I was able to re-install both tilts in half the time it took to do the lift cylinders. Suspended from the forks I was able to maneuver them into position for the love tap from the BFH and they went in easy. Buttoned up the lines and added 10 gal to the system, worked the air out and now ol' Mo is ready for some work. Later I swapped the forks for the bucket on the Kubota(man this thing is useful) and lifted my Daughter and her Husband to paint the name on my newest blind. E.
Well Mo has been operational now for several months problem free and doing a great job felling large trees and clearing dirt. I decided to get a "little brother" to keep Mo company. Gonna call it "TAZ" Evan Q.
That little guy is gonna do gods work, killing cedars.
Id do it if I had any cedars to kill. Got plenty of Mesquite to take down tho
First pic on the trailer at delivery is the "cleanest it will ever be pic" This little beast gets dirty quick!
It's past my bed time. Invasive trees all start looking the same.
Land management package, LED lights, product link and a Kubota engine. Nice.
Nice machine
Any chance I could "borrow" Taz for a weekend this summer? I have some work that he would be just right for!
ME TOO ME TOO! Put me on that list!!
That's a nice machine. That mesquite holds south Texas together doesn't it. We have a good bit of it near the river bottoms. Job security for rigs like yours.
Scored the 48 month/3000 warranty with it as well. Hopefully wont have to touch it except blowing dirt out all the time although the reversing fan does a pretty good job of that. Evan Q.
Nice tool but they obviously don't expect it to last too long only offering a 3000 warranty for it. readint that made me think a bit about the warranties on our kit. 1 year/6000 as standard and 2 years/12000 if you buy an extended warranty package.
Thanks Nige! Im not too concerned about the hour count. I probably wont hit 500 hrs in 3 years. I was happy to get the "extended" warranty for no extra charge. E.
Don't forget the hours DMiller and I plan on putting on it! And who knows how many stops it will be making between Missouri and Central NY!
New guy here lots of great information and help on this site. Had a couple questions about the discussion, pertaining to the undercarriage being a D5. D5 meaning it came off a dozer? Do dozers and track loads have different undercarriage? Is there an easy way to tell? Nice job fixing up the 955, pictures are great for clarification not being familiar with the machines.
Thanks Clutch. Yes I believe that the chains and grousers came off of a D5 dozer. Most 955s came with triple grouser shoes which didnt have alot of bite and didnt tear up the ground so bad. Dozers like the D5 usually have the single grouser with a taller tooth
Thanks Evan, for the response and the information on the grouser.
Only problem with using dozer shoes or extended grouser on a Loader is the side loading when the bucket is full and turning. Is NOT near the same loading as a dozer gets with the blade shoving. Idlers, bottom rollers even sprocket segments will show strange wear patterns, the rails will show excessive wear in spots they normally do not. Have seen truck frames damaged from that if abusively worked.
funny you say that DMiller. I was just contemplating putting the bucket back on. The blade is great for knocking down brush so I can tear it up with Mo's little brother later. However, its miserable for pushing dirt. Has too much tendency to dig since its mounted to the loader frame and not the chassis. Im expanding the shop to accommodate the new machinery and having to push alot of dirt out of the way. My passes end up looking like a dirt bike whoop te do section. I think once the shop is done, Ill pull 'ol Mo inside out of the heat and swap the bucket on. I bought new pins back when I was doing the hydraulics so the BFH will get some more usage. E.