Just wanted to start a thread for a machine I just picked up. I sold my 236B2 this summer and since then I've been itching for a new machine to clear snow with. I've wanted a tracked machine and originally purchased a 247B3, but ended up selling that a couple days after purchasing it to a friend of mine who really wanted it. In turn, I picked up a '12 259B3 w/ 2500 hours on it from Ritchie Brothers. The machine has some bumps and bruises but overall looked fairly clean. The listing did state it had a mechanical issue, but ran and drove. My friend picked it up today for me and turns out the mechanical issue is the bucket cylinders not wanting to hold. I believe the bucket will curl in, but immediately bypasses. What should I look for first?
First suggestion would be a Manual if it doesn't have one, not likely if it came from RB....... A Serial Number enables identification of the correct one. I'm guessing YYZ-prefix.
Yes I'll have to look for a service manual for it, and correct YYZ020XX.
Here are your manual references with new prices - so you don't get stung by eBay sellers proud of their used offerings. Operation & Maintenance - SEBU8495, $57 on eBay (CD) Parts - SEBP5924, $109 (CD) from servicemanualpro.com Service - UENR0245, $545 (CD) or $770 (Papaer) from servicemanualpro.com A complete Service Manual will also contain a copy of the O&M Manual.
The machine made it's way home today. After some inspection I found that it's a former Cat rental house machine per documentation found with the owners manual (WIN!). Overall the machine is all there and seems to be in good shape, just in need of some cosmetic TLC. I quickly discovered that the "mechanical issue" is actually the bucket always wanting to dump. The joystick felt odd so I pulled the rubber boot off and found that the plunger for that pilot is stuck (picture attached). At this point I believe it's fair to assume that this is the issue, but what exactly is broken I'm not 100%. There are 3 different springs in the pilot assembly that could be the issue. Sadly, it looks like there's only 1 that you can actually buy from Cat. The one kit that is available (5) is 2-3 days away and won't show up until after the holidays. Alternatively, my work has 5 old 216B's that are bound for scrap pile. I'll likely pull apart one of those to get this machine up and going. I'll be working with a local glass shop to see if they can make me a new piece of glass for the door. Cat wants a small fortune with the center glass being on backorder. My existing piece of glass is plexi that is scratched up and needs to be re-installed.
Got things apart a couple nights ago and found that it was just the plunger that was seized. I ended up replacing it and all is well now. Nice easy fix. I ordered a new seal for the Lexan windshield from Cat but it's not going to come here in time. In the meantime I'm going to clean up the machine and get it ready for the next snowfall. I'll update the thread as I go, likely a new paintjob come springtime.
Nice that it was an easy fix!
That center glass is easily made at a glass shop, I had several made when I owned a 259b3. The aftermarket glass didn't seem to hold up as well as the Cat glass though. Of course, you could just avoid having operators running tree branches through the window as well . . .
I picked up the seal and locking strip from Cat last week and started the install. Turns out the machine didn't have a factory seal in it before, new and old are pretty different. Anyways, the install was quite painful and the fit is pretty bad. I have a 1/4"-3/8" gap in many locations around the glass, it's no wonder there was heavy amounts of urethane in a few spots. As far as I can tell it's a factory piece of Lexan. In the spring I'll get the door blasted and painted, and reinstall things with urethane to fill the gaps. That, or get pieces of actual glass installed instead.
Hi Why not polish the existing door panel . done right it will be like new. While I am here I also have 259b3 and cant get the continuose flow working to run a slasher?
How are you trying to engage the CF function>
H i Nige The 259 only has 2 switches on the left side switch panel and none marked AUX. The forward reverse pilot has 3 buttons withe top left button for the horn. the right pilot has only the function roller. the manuals are not helping much? thanks for the reply
To engage the Continuous Flow function for the Auxiliary connections you roll the thumbwheel in whichever direction you want flow, then press & hold the rear button on the LH joystick briefly. Release the button then let go of the thumbwheel within one second. That will engage Continuous Flow if the system is working correctly. The Cat manual is pretty self explanatory, or do you have an aftermarket one.?
Might be a project for the spring, but the condition of the glass itself isn't the issue. It's the fitment of the Lexan vs. the metal door which leaves a lot to be desired.
Have you tried adjusting the hinges? If you already mentioned that my apologies. They shift very easily or may even be bent a bit. Usually these seal very well unless it’s an aftermarket door then who knows.
Hi Nige. Yes I have the manual and followed the instructions as per you and the manual where the continuous flow did not kick with the brush cutter winding down abruptly.(awful sound). It is a 2011 model s/n LYYZ01420
So it appears as though the thumbwheel is working correctly, just the CF is not latching. If you want to go testing the operation of the button I can send you the electrical schematic. Let me know.
Adjusting the hinges wouldn't fix it, it's a glass size vs. frame opening discrepancy. Here are a few pics to show the gaps. I ended up bringing the glass up in the door frame to tighten them up. In the spring I'll likely take it all apart, get the door painted, and reassemble with urethane to bridge the gap or try a different style aftermarket seal.
Based on those photos either the window or the door frame is wrong. My bet would be that either the window is not a genuine factory part, or it is designed for another model with a slightly different door frame shape. The OEM Lexan windows fit far better than that because they are exactly the same profile as the standard glass windows.
@Nige I'm thinking you're right on the glass not being correct. I actually received the last 3 years of service history from Cat yesterday. It shows a glass replacement from an outside company a year and a half ago. No details further than that, but with what looks like an OEM door and an OEM seal, the glass is all that's left. I'm very happy with the machine's service history, it shows over $16k CAD in repairs in the last 3 years/500 hours alone (which I believe may be at dealer cost). The undercarriage was totally rebuilt with new tracks, sprockets, idlers etc. New alternator, starter, AC compressor, heater blower, and a bunch of hoses. Regular servicing is also shown, with the last one done 4 months/20 hours ago.
Too bad they put new dirt / rock tracks on it. They are terrible on ice and snow with those large block treads. The only way out is either stud these or replace them with a track made for winter work.
I think that could be your clue.
Is that rubber gasket a Cat part? When I had a 259b3 there was no gasket, the glass was glued to the frame and it was caulked with clear silicone around the edge and between the glass panes. I don't know if my setup was OE or not, I didn't have Sis back then.
This is the OEM setup for a polycarbonate door window on a YYZ-prefix machine. #4 is the window, #5 is the seal.
There were two options, glass and Lexan. My last machine which was a 236B2 had the glass option and glue in place as you described @Acoals . This machine has the Lexan window which uses a seal with a "lock". I got all the stuff from Cat for the Lexan window install, but now I'm thinking the actual Lexan piece isn't OEM Cat due to fitment issues. That, or my standard for how the window should fit is off.
I think your expectations for installation are just fine, the shape of the polycarbonate not so much.......
How was the old window installed?
If it was glass it should be bonded into the door frame. If it was polycarbonate it should be "zipped" in with a seal. The idea being that polycarb windows will likely get f'ked up more frequently than glass ones (assuming that's why the customer specified it in the first place) therefore need to be more easily replaceeable.
Thanks Nige. That would be great.
Check your messages.
Hi Nige. After taking your lead I called in the local Cat onsite mechanic and after his diagnosis of the continual flow button he was not able to get a read on his computer. The cf button worked fine but was not reading with the ECM . He found that the ECM power cable was mostly broken through (only 2 strands left) and was not getting enough power. A quick repair of the wire and all is good. Continual flow works great and gave it a good 2 hour work out with the slasher(brush cutter). The electrical schematic will be a big help in the future. Thanks
The machines running great, admittedly I don't use it very much in the summer but it comes in handy when I need it. I finally got the auxiliary bracket and electrical connector sorted out. I straitened out the bracket, got it blasted at work, put on a fresh coat of paint and used some new bolts. Ordered all new Deutsch parts from Digikey (just like the OEM parts but much cheaper), extended the harness, crimped new pins on and added some new wire loom. Finished it up with a new cap to keep everything protected and here we are.
Coming up on two years with this one, still running great and earning its keep. Used mostly load/unload equipment and parts around the house, and snow removal. Last year I got the door sandblasted and painted, and fixed the window gasket. Turns out whoever installed the window last trimmed the factory polycarbonate, that's why the OEM gasket didn't fit right. Just finished servicing the machine a couple of weeks ago, more calendar based vs. hours since I've only put 90 on it in the last 2 years. I've also been contemplating repainting it, and might actually do that in the new years.