Dozer delivered on Wednesday and got to operate it for a couple of hours. The only thing I can find wrong is it's really hard to find neutral. When you decel and shift to neutral nothing happens unless you really slap it hard forward then sometimes it will go to neutral. Mostly it goes directly into forward or reverse when you push the lever from side to side. I assume this is worn linkage. Any suggestions would be helpful also this is my first time running a dozer. Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. dave
mine did that, needed a trans pump, couldn't get enough flow, old one was really shot. Take the mag strainer out and see if it is plugged with metal, if so this might be it. fwiw, after an oil change, 2 new filter changes, 3 strainer cleanings I think it seems clear now and shifts like it should.
Pull up the floor plates, and maybe take off the shift lever box and see if it's got a lot of slack in the linkage. Mine was kind of loose and it wasn't very difficult to get it fixed up....now it's got nice positive gear positions.
yes there is a few bushes and swivel eyes in the linkage that get worn with age. Selectors have detents that it should pop into for the selected gear. check this out first, may need adjustment and/or replacement. Also check suction screen for sadness and change the filters. Change all the fluids too is a good idea if you dont know how old they are.
Thanks all for the replies. I will check linkage for wear first but I will be doing a complete service on the d6. I assume it is not good with the transmission skipping neutral when changing directions. The trans seams fine it pulls great and shifts 1-2 shift fine but haven't had it in third yet as new to this so slow is great. I'm going to try a picture forgive me if it doesn't work.
good ole gurl right there........
Nice looking dozer. But I'll put how my dad did when I got my first 7. "That's a nice little dozer... too bad it won't push nothing." He has a 9 he uses on the farm.
Good looking tractor, about the shift linkage. The lever has a bushing and spacer in the bottom end with a 1/2" bolt through it. Change all these parts and any rod end joints. Then get lever set up to go through the U and stop at all gears. The N123 cross shaft has a couple bearings too. The inside has a couple of ratchet quadrants for speed and direction. Leave them alone for now, should be okay. There are two trans valves, one forces trans into Neutral shut down The newer one will not go into gear if shifter is not in Neutral at startup. Put trans in 3rd speed and shut down to see. Earlier one will force lever to N, newer one will stay in 3rd but not travel untill you shift through Neutral to reset it. Later Bob
it will help if you build some engine screens to keep the stuff out of the radiator! Looks good from this angle..
Ok finally had time to work on the dozer a little today been busy with my mom and father in law both in hospital. I pulled up the floor plates and ready to check the mag screen. My question is is it the canister on the left side with four nuts holding down a flat lid? Is it me or is the service book a little less than helpful. Will i need a new gasket to put it back together? Thanks Dave
Naw its an o ring under there if it isn't totally flat it should reseal.
Could this be what is wrong with Tiny ?:notworthy:notworthy
Bwaa hahah haha.....it could be shopguy,,,, but your the one thats gonna have to do the checking it out. :slomo :slomo
Good looking dozer. Is it just me or do the tracks look tight?
I also have been wondering about the tracks being too tight I will check the book and see about adjustment I know you pump grease in to tighten not sure about loosen. I also got the mag screen cleaned today and only what I call metal fuze on the magnets. Its back together with a new o-ring. I also fixed the no shift into neutral by adjusting the shift rod so now I get a good positive shift into neutral. The bushing on the main pivot is worn and I will be fixing that at a later date. Nice day in Iowa today. Dave So far so good hers another picture.
There's a little trap door on the roller frame between the two carrier rollers. Under the door is a release nut,, and a grease zerk. To release track pressure loosen nut, which allows grease to extrude back out allowing the idlers to move back, then retighten nut. To tighten track put grease gun on zerk and pump,,, extra grease force's front idler back out. I think if you lay a straight edge across the grousers above the two carrier rollers, you should have 1 to 11/2 in. sagg.
The track adjusting information is correct. But in addition the tracks need be real clean . Not just cleaned with a spade, but then run enough to get the sprockets and idlers clean. Then the machine needs to be on a hard flat surface.
grandpa i gotthe oil off my glasses and reread the post, i was relieved to see we were talking about the d6 with the 4 nuts ,flat lid and o ring
Shopguy.... there's no way on god's green earth your gonna convince me thats what you were talking about,,,,,, no sir....LOL
Air lock huh? :notworthy:notworthy