I've asked a few questions over on ACMOC and allischalmers.com. Figured I'd throw some info up here as well! Picked up 2 HD11's actually. One has a seized engine and has been robbed of a few parts. S/N: HD11S-3677. The 2 machines have been buddies for at least the last couple of owners. The running one is HD11B-3880. It's not going to win any beauty contests or anything. It's been rode hard and put away wet. 6-roller track. Steering out of the floor. One source says that Allis changed to dash steering levers in 1961, and so pegs this one as 1955-1961. Anyone care to narrow that down based on the serial? Managed to track down an Operator's Manual, Parts Manual and Service Manual off of EBay. That's helped a fair bit. Had to download a PDF parts book though as there were a few changes. For some reason, it has a D6 c-frame on it. The blade has an Allis tag (11-GD), but the c-frame is 5F746. I've cross-checked the filters so here's the info for those future searchers: Engine Oil: Allis 4371021, Fleetguard LF509N, Wix 51136, Wix 51133 First Stage Fuel: Allis 4347787, Allis 4055563, Fleetguard FF106, Baldwin PF916, Wix 33073 Second Stage Fuel: Allis 065583, Allis 4056633, Fleetguard FF109, Baldwin PF906, Wix 33511 Thoughts on pulling a 12' Rome TAW? CAT 70 scraper? Ideas for adding hydraulic remotes? Not sure if I can tap into the factory hydraulic block somewhere?? What's the consensus on oil for these ol' gals? Engine? 15w40 or 10w30? Hydraulics? Was going to use hyd/trans oil. Transmission? I've seen some use 15w40, some use hyd/trans fluid, some use a 50 weight gear oil... Final Drives? Similar to the trans, I've seen quite a few recommendations. 15w40, 50 weight gear oil, GL5 80w90, even up to a GL5 85w140. No pics yet. Spent today removing belly pans, engine hood, engine side panels, floor plate, etc. Don't think it's been cleaned in a while! Plan is to drain all fluids, change all filters, refill. At least that way I know where she's starting! Andrew
Is the engine a Detroit or an Allis Chalmers? I would think the operators manual that you obtained from Ebay would have the oil specs in it.
It has the older 516 cu in Allis engine. Yes, the manual has oil & grease specs. Engine and Air Cleaner: Engine Oil SAE30 Transmission, Final Drives, Track Release Housing: Engine Oil SAE50 Grease for Support Roller, Truck Wheel, Track Idler: Manual says to check with my dealer I'm thinking though that oils have changed a bit in 50-60 years! Andrew
That's only a few numbers off of our old one. We ran 80w90 in the finals, and TO4 30 in the transmission. Be careful about running thinner oils in the air filter than they call for as if it gets to warm, and too thin, the engine could pick it up and run away on it, not likely to happen, but a possibility.
Hadn't thought about that on the air filter oil. I'm thinking I'll run 15w40 in the engine and air filter. Trans/Hyd oil in the transmission and in the hydraulic system (seperate units on this machine for those who don't know). 80w90 in the final drives. Spent today washing and degreasing again. Also fixing the front belly pan. It's been reinforced with grader blades running cross-ways on the bottom. Even then, it had a few cracks and such. The access holes in it had beefier bars bolted across and a couple of the nuts that were welded to the inside of the pan weren't welded very good! Rear pan is in even worse shape. Had 4" diameter x 12" long piece of tree stuck through one corner! Ordered a piece of 3" exhaust to redo the stack - it leaks worse than a sieve! Also need to fix a couple of leaks - one between the manifold and the muffler. Second is actually a small crack in the manifold. Not sure if I should weld it - I have cast rods and some (little) experience welding cast. Or maybe hi-temp silicon and exhaust wrap?? A few linkages under the floor are bent. Manly due to worn connectors and such. Bit of lathe and milling machine work there I think. Got the engine oil drained and filter changed. Letting the pan drip over-night - refill in the morning, then on to the transmission and finals... Sorting out electrical right now as well. The parts machine has a nicer looking ammeter gauge - the one on the running machine is full of condensation. Think I'll switch them. Fuel pressure not even hooked up yet. Oil pressure works. Water temperature...haven't worked it hard enough yet! Andrew
You can weld that cast manifold with a nickel rod, just weld a little bit at a time. An inch at a time or less is about right. I've done it several times. Grind it out a little bit first.
According to Norm Swinfords book on AC your HD11B ser. no. 3880 was built in 1957. HD11S does not show up in the book, might be an 11SA which was later and ag tractor. Dry air cleaner and turbo. Don't use EP oil in transmission, finals OK. Trans has big brass bushings inside cluster gears and the sulfur in the EP additive will eat brass like a bunch of worms have bee in there. BTDT. Book calls for 50 wt. non detergent motor oil. Also the steering clutch throw-out bearings are oiled with a wick inside a hose from the trans and 90 wt won't flow through it. Maybe somebody has plumed the steering clutches out with a grease nipple. Later ones with pressure fed lube trans used 30 wt. Add a turbo and dry air cleaner to it and you will have a damned snappy dozer. Good tractors and ahead of their time.
uh oh...running into that darned english-to-english translation again!! Yes, I meant nickel rods. I think I'll try to weld it. If that fails, I can always swap the manifold off of the parts machine. Looking at it, I have this feeling that it is worn very thin and that trying to weld it will cause some headaches! The HD11S is non-turbo with oil air filter. I've seen reference to them in the parts books and such, but maybe they weren't as common?? I'll keep an eye on the non-EP oil. Seems that I've read that somewhere on the inter-web no that you mention it. Regarding adding a turbo and dry air cleaner...someone over on allischalmers.com had mentioned adding a turbo tot he 516 engine and was advised not to. Head can't handle the extra pressure?? Dry air cleaner though would be a heck of a good idea. Saw and HD7 project where someone did just that. Andrew
Andrew, S is the ag version, both are basically similar, both have the 'Buda' motor with side mounted injectors. Turbocharger never was fitted to HD11s until after the wet back end tractors arrived at s/n 10000 up. Motor in earlier girls changed to the direct injection 10000 series engine around HD11 6473. Engines are quite happy with 15W40, Finals and Trans any transmission TO2 50 grade [ ie roadranger oil] wet back ends need 10W or ATF [ yours are both dry] Pic of HD11B 1351
Yup, steering clutches are dry. Also very dirty just by moving my finger in the drain holes! I think once things get adjusted, I will follow the manual rec's on flushing them with solvent...thoughts? I read that the bottom holes are to be left open so that moisture can drain. I read somewhere that they are 1 1/4" pipe thread. What about a reducing bushing to take that down to say 1/2" pipe? Would that keep some of the dirt and dust out of them? Or better just to leave them open? I think the bevel gear housing and transmission share the same oil?? Can someone confirm this - I think I'm following the parts diagrams correctly! Drained transmission and bevel gear today. Trans oil was quite a bit cleaner than the bevel gear which is why I'm not 100% sure if they are the same oil or not?? Have a question about the oil system on the transmission. Parts book shows end caps for each of the shafts. Then the next pages show an oil pump mounted to the front of the transmission - wet sump or dry sump. I'm guessing the the oil pump was an option?? Neither of these tractors has the transmission oil pump. Andrew
Need some help here guys... Took the oil bath air filter apart to clean it yesterday. The oil cup at the bottom was FULL of oil, congealed oil, mouse carcasses, mouse nest, misc debris, etc. Even though the manual and parts book shows the canister as non-serviceable, I decided to disassemble. There are 3 layers (each approx 3" thick) of steel wool/brillo pad/??? The bottom one (closest to the oil bath) is completely congealed with oil. Next up isn't too bad. Top one was good. The middle one came apart while pulling it out, leaving me with a million feet of steel wool! I'm thinking of finding a paper filter canister to use in its place. Has anyone changed over to a paper filter on these? What canister and filter number? The space to fit is approx 10" diameter - might get to 11" if I relocate the blade hyd lines. Max length approx 24". Inlet to the engine manifold is 3 3/4", but I can make an adapter to any size needed. First thing I thought of was our swather. MacDon swather has a 4-cyl 3.9L turbo Cummins - small sibling to the common 5.9L. The housing is approx 9 1/2" x 18" so it might work. In and Out was 4 1/2", but has a 90º elbow to 3 1/2" or 3 3/4" on the output side. Was after 5pm, so couldn't call for prices or check wrecking yards. Andrew
Had an idea for air filter. Neighbor came up with this one... Get one of those K&N filters that clamps on the end of the pipe. I looked and there are a few in the right size. Question though: Air under the hood will likely be warm with the belly pan and side panels. Should I bring the pipe (& filter) out through the existing hole in the hood? Then make something up to protect the filter? Any other ideas? Andrew
I'm sure Donaldson builds a dry filter that would be sized for that engine. Take the oil bath and pitch it and mount the dry one in that area and pipe it to air intake. Be sure to get one with a double element. If you think about adding a turbo be sure and get one big enough to handle the extra air flow, then add a turbo type pre cleaner. Had an 11 just about the same age with added turbo and farmed with it several years, neighbor has it now with a dozer. Runs great. Only problem was with the transmission and that was from using ep 90 wt like stated above. All old AC tractors need a good home.
I've had a little trouble lately obtaining 50 wt engine oil. I've been using GL1 90wt gear oil. It is approved for Fuller Road Ranger tranys also for my Galion 503 grader. GL1 is mineral oil not EP. FWD
When we used cats to farm with always took out plugs from bottom of steering clutches and drilled a hole in them, put in a loosely fitting cotter pin and bent one end a little and replaced plug. Cotter pin would jiggle around and keep hole open so oil could drain but not let in much dirt. Not a good idea if you are going to operate in water.