My Terex has a leaking o-ring. 23.5-25. This has 3 loose pieces, the lock ring, the inner ring that seals to the o-ring, and a larger ring, perhaps a bead protector. Any tips for when the whole thing is stuck tight? Tire has probably been on for 40 years. No close tire shops will do o-ring field service around here, not much construction.
You have the tire pushed back and the rings are rusted tight? Or can't move the tire? I've seen on guy use a backhoe, and a different one push with a knuckle boom crane, pushing on the tire to break it off the bead. I'm lucky there's two tire shops nearby that will do them. One has the huge tire grapple truck, the other guys do it all by hand.
Haven't been able to get the bead broken. The outer flange is loose, but trapped between the sidewall and the sealing flange. I was hoping I could get the sealing flange loose so I could just slip in a new o-ring without breaking the bead.
They make a bead breaker tool that's kind of like a screw jack , you can run it down with a impact. I think you have to break the bead.
XB-550i HD Tire Bead Breaker (MADE-IN-USA for Tractor/OTR/Commercial/I HEAVY DUTY Large Tire Bead BreakerFREE SHIPPING!For use on: Farm Tractors Lawn Mowers, Garden Tractors Agricultural & Industrial Tires Heavy OTR (Off The Road) Tires Skid Loaders ATV’s, UTV’s (aka. Side x Side’s) Military Vehicles Passenger vehicles Trucks, 4×4’s, Jeeps Rock Crawlers, Mud... beadbuster.com
There's ones that use a hydraulic jack in place of the screw, but they are over $1,000.
I assume your rim assembly is something like the illustration, so the three pieces you are mentioning are the lock ring, bead seat band, and the flange (1 0f 2). Have you managed to remove anything yet, even the lock ring.? Do your rims have driver pockets in the rim and the bead seat band.?
I bet those tires are hard as concrete.
Nige, that is the best pic I've seen of how my rim is configured. The outboard driver key detail is somewhat different, but all the pieces are there. It appears I have 3 problems. The o ring leaks. The tire is adhered to the bead seat band. The bead seat band is frozen solid to the rim base. I had a tire guy come by to look at it today. He said he could get the tire off the bead seat band, but there was a good chance the sealing area of the bead would be destroyed. Then I still have to fight the bead seat band frozen to the rim base. I had one similar before but I was able to get the bead broken loose. I then torched the bead seat band off the rim base. But I don't have another bead seat band in my scrap pile. I'll just live with adding air weekly until I find spare parts.
Or you can do as my logger buddy does, lets all the air out removes lock ring and drives back & forth turning the wheels tight till it breaks loose and rim climbs out of tire. But he's a old logger too.
Mine were sandblasted and epoxy coated so they slide but to start I used a forklift to catch the ring with the tips and ease it back, get the lock out then pull the whole thing apart before lots of wire brushing, sandblasting and filling any pits with jbweld
If it went flat while you were driving, and just wanted to get someplace dry to fix it, darn sure it would come right off the rim
Guaranteed.
It took the logger buddy over a hour to get that 40 plus year old tire to break loose from that 966. It was rotted to the rim.
My bet is that, apart from anything else, the bead seat band will be rusted to the rim.
My o-ring grooves were a little pitted so filled in the pits and reshaped the groove with a 3/8 dowel wrapped in sandpaper, been pretty good overall, no flats yet! I'm trying to recall the bill to blast 4 rims but it was pricey, they formerly had solid filled tires so there was a lot of pitting all over.
I've used similar technique to remove stuck hub centered pickup truck tire/rim loose from the axle, loosen nuts 2 turns max. lower truck back down, and drive a few feet. No kicking, sledge pounding involved. Might be able to do similar, without taking the tire down to zero pounds and still get the desired results without permanent tire damage ?
Be careful how deep the pits are. It's possible for the rim to crack right through the bottom of the O-Ring groove and suffer a complete and catastrohpic failure. As a result the piece of rim outboard of the lock ring, the aforementioned lock ring, and often the bead seat band and outer flange, can be propelled at high speed for distances up to 100 yards away from the machine. I can guarantee that anything that happens to be in their path will not come out of the encounter unscathed. Any amount of pitting, however small, in the bottom of the O-Ring groove for us was suifficient to scrap the rim. I may have photos somewhere............
I can see that, the grooves are deep, most of the rust was pitting on the sides and speckled across the rim, nothing deeper than 1/8 inch. Interestingly, when we got the machine, 2 rims had a four or five inch stretch in width, no idea why someone would do that and run the standard width tires. Would be fun to put it on the 200 yard range and detonate it
That right there is enough to scrap an earthmover rim. Sorry I should have said the lock ring groove. My apologies. First photo would be classed as normal. The second one mst definitely isn't. The rim in the 2nd photo was scrapped.
I see what you mean! the lock rings were showing signs of corrosion and fretting, did score 4 new lock rings from Deere
This is the nearest I ever got to seeing a rim almost but not quite let go. It was discovered by the tyre fitters during a regular smoke break tyre inspection and pressure sheck. The crack at the bottom of the lock ring groove was 84cm (34") in length and yes that is daylight you can see through it. Just over 14k hours on the rim. That was on a 200-ton loader.
In the end he ended up scraping and buying a good used rim.
That is a really close call!!! Should be able to weld that while its still mounted