i have an old 450 jd dozer,it isn't a b or a c model just a straight 450 is far as i know,no turbo. I got it stuck in a branch today and got water uo to the pads and it quit pulling. What can i expect happened?
Engine clutch got soaked ?
Or steering clutches, too? There are pipe plugs that fit in the bottom of the final drive cases. I have B model and mine are removed. Hopefully you can dry things out and she’ll be back to normal. Maybe run on the flat without a load and, if there is slipping, will warm and dry out fiber discs.
no clue.i don't know anything about the drive system on this machine
any tips on how to dry it out? it won't move at all. The trans oil is chocolate milk.i'm hoping i can drain the oil and put in new oil and filter and that fix it. I did start it up and crack the filter loose and it is building trans oil presssure
May be a couple issues going on. Milky transmission fluid not good. Not sure why would go from pulling fine to not. After being in water, I believe our thoughts were clutches wet and slipping. There is the clutch between the engine and transmission and also steering clutches on each drive that use a combination of steel and fiber discs. I’m also not familiar if any differences in straight vs B. On mine, there is adjustment procedure for clutch pedal and transmission pressure. Always good to have a manual. There is JDCrawler forum that has good info/help. JDcrawlers Messageboard - Index page Also, the 303 oil Deere specs is no longer a standard so anything can be labeled 303. I went with Deere hy-tran oil. Good luck. Keep us posted
removed the engine to look at the clutch,flywheel was wet and rusty but the clutch doesn't appear to be bad nut i'm not sure how to tell.
Did you not check the transmission pressure before pulling the motor
no i did not
I have an old 350, 1966, in the rear, the steering clutches are in a case with a drain plug, if you got water over the center of the sprocket the clutch case would be filled with water and with maybe worn clutches it might not want to move until it dries out. I dried and resealed my cases and never had another issue with water/rust/slippage. The drain plug is down underneath, there's one for the final drive oil and one higher up for the clutch area.
the plugs were out of mine, Before this happened if i tried to push more than half a blade of loose fill dirt it would slip and smell like hot brakes
would steering clutches keep one from pulling or just steering?
So on a non-hydro steer machine, there are a clutch and a brake on each axle (no differential gear) To turn, you pull the lever, that first disengages the drive clutch to that side for a gentle turn, further pull engages a band brake to stop that track from turning entirely.
350 Final drive showing clutch The band brake slips around the outer part. cluch plates alternately attached to the outer and inner cogs
Slipping steering clutches on both sides and it will not move. If one side is slipping it will try and move until you disengage that side and it will just sit still because the other side is not pulling. I've seen people put oil in the clutch housing because they didnt understand it was a dry clutch and the machines never moved again. The dry clutches have an issue where they can swell and shrink and they are basically a slip fest.
anyone ever put steering clutched in one of these tractors? I'm wondering what kinda job it is to do
Getting ready to rebuild the steering clutches on my 450B - Page 5 - JDcrawlers Messageboard This is the forum and the member I followed (not sure if his exact post). He documented it pretty well. You’ll need to break the track and pull drive sprocket to remove (think it’s called) the quill shaft. Then you can lift clutch and brake out of rear frame.