OK, I have a LX 865 skid steer, installed a new battery before winter, and added a battery tender(Schumacher tender via a 2 prong SAE plug) tender was showing full charge two weeks ago, (Last time I looked) today when to use skid steer, disconnected charger as alweays turn key and get super high pitch buzzer alarm sound, and ZERO lights on display, like dead display and alrm just going nuts plug tender back in, just to see status of battery as has level meter on it and it is DEAD, ZERO lights on tender, THINKING tender some how went bad? pull side panel off to access battery and test battery with volt meter, and it reads 15.35 volts, WAY over charged so now think charger over charged and maybe ruined something, but WHAT any suggestions here? dead in water at this point, and NOT the greatest MR fix it, so, any and all help appreciated!
Take the battery out and add distilled water to your battery up to the level of the bottom of the tubes. You boiled the water off with the battery tender, maybe even a shorted cell caused it? 15V resting means the acid is overconcentrated, but that doesn't mean the battery has more power because the level is too low to put out the amps it should. I'd pull it out, fill the water, charge it, and test it on another machine, then go back and see what happens. Or try a good battery.
OK thanks, right now getting to battery is a big problem, machine is parked in a corner up against a wall, and NOT much room to work, side covers will NOT come out/off to make room, CRAPPY design for where battery is, cannot open rear down more than about 1/3 of the way too unbolted the one side shied base, JUST to get to terminals, but NO clue how I would get to hold onto battery to even try and lift it out of place, I have health issue's that limit many things I can do way its set up, is to lift boom up and lock it, then pull panels and remove battery so without starting machine, its no easy task tried to drag skid steer some with my 2500,m RAM Cummin's but NO go there truck just spins . in a building with a low ceiling too, so, not helping BUT even if battery was swapped out with a new one I am still having issue's with the alarm going off, this worries me more than a battery being down on fluid a sI gather something must have tripped a fuse or cooked something to cause it to not allow display to light and throw alarm on?? fuses in IN AB fuse block all good, one's on behind motor on fire wall like, I cannot REACH to check in my service manual(not owners manual) it DOESN"T say what fuse is for what either IF I could ever reach one to pull and check, like to try and limit what one's I plull if I can due to they too, are designed to be checked with BOOM up, something I cannot do at all ! SO, any thoughts on why this alarm is going off, what fuse to what should I be looking at??
No idea on the alarm. I'd put a volt meter wherever you can reach and see what the voltage does when you turn it on and the alarm goes off. Figure that out first. Also, if the voltage stays high, check the voltmeter against a good battery. If you can reach the top of the battery, you might be able to pry the covers off, or get a hose on the vent and fill it with distilled water that way. Let us know what the battery voltage does sitting and with the machine on. Or maybe somebody else has seen this before in a NH.
ok, little update when I FIRST took reading off battery it was about 20 minutes after I un plugged the BAD tender, and it read 15.35 volts(GOOD meter) I waited about an hr and took a reading again, and its NOW reading 13.35 volts so it came down on its own(BUT this machine has a drain some where, ,when I got it and old owner just added a quick dis connect at battery I left that ON< knowing it would drain some, and seems to have done that! I still CANNOT start the machine, it will do NOTHING when I turn the key, minus that alarm buzzer going off and says on as long as key is in run /to start position or to the left, alarm sound every way you turn key it stays on if I put machine in service mode too, , and still NOTHING when you turn the key, minus alarm sounding off! NO dash lighting up, NOTHING so, s of right now I am dead here , I checked fuses inside cab, and all good, fuse box on motor side, I cannot reach to pull and inspect fuses so, trying to figure out how to do that and woudl LOVE to find out what fuse is for what, as NO where in service manual or owners manual does it show what fuses are for what? as being so darn hard to get to, rather NOT have to pull all if possible and just pull higher odds one's of possible problem! SO if anyone know's what fuses are for what and what one's I shoudl check first here, please let me know
these are fuses on back side of seat fire wall(motor bay ) any clue what one is for what??
Machine is on a concrete floor ? is so... that's good. You'll have to do it the Egyptian Pharaoh's way. Jack the machine up, put boards under it with sections of steel pipe as rollers. Your Cummins or a bunch of Israelis will pull it out for working room. Or figure out how to release the wheel motors hydraulically
thanks for suggestion, but I don;t have any steel rollers, all I have maybe would be PVC, and don;'t have much if it either, not sure if it would hold, have used it to move a few sheds, but there not as heavy as this thing! I do have a HD floor jack on wheels, maybe could lift one end and the try dragging with truck, might get it far enough to at least remove covers? still hoping someoen can tell me what fuses are for what ?? so, anyone know, or have advice on where I might find a chart showing what each fuse if for?
Can you boost it with your truck to get it moved to where you can get at it? Sounds like even a couple of feet would help.
I think maybe I am not being clear the battery is NOT the problem the problem is again the tender overcharged the system on skid steer, and in doing so something got damaged I lost all dash lights, and when I TRY to start it, all I get is a very HIGH pitched alarm.buzzer NOTHING else happens if I put a NEW battery in, it doesn't change things here, something electrical is damaged some where from being overcharged and I have NO clue what the fuses I could check in cab, were all good, and cannot reach the fuses in the motor bay area(in picture above taken with a ZOOM on camera) so, if I can SOME how maybe get to a fuse there, I woudl like to try and limit HOW many I need to pull to check due to how hard they are to reach, IF possible at all to reach! and if NOT a fuse, then what got damaged and is causing the alarm to go off/ NO lights on dash to light up, and NOT allowing to start machine and again, even in service mode, it still will NOT do anything! battery is holding steady at 13 volts, so battery actually seems OK, as far as on a meter reading goes and battery is only 6 months old or so!
You're making yourself perfectly clear. Here's my suggestion. 1. Decide if you want help, or if you know it all already. 2. What happened to your former thread on the starting problem? 3.What's the voltage with the key on and the alarm sounding? Voltage when the key is at start? 4.What voltage do you get with that meter with a known good battery? Maybe you've done these and know what you're talking about, but you haven't stated that, and it doesn't sound like you know what you're talking about. So help us out a little.
MrBB... You state "in my service manual(not owners manual) it DOESN"T say what fuse is for "... That's hard to believe...maybe look again, VERY carefully, & do you have an Owner's Manual?? It should certainly show what fuses are for. If no manual, do a google search for NH LX 865 manuals & maybe something will pop up. Also, it's possible you have wire damage somewhere due to mouse chewing.
I have looked several times and I cannot find ANY chart that shows what the fuses are for, it goes into detail telling what color wires run to what, but not what each fuse and IO do have BOTH service manual and owners manual the fuse box section is 3-125 in manual, and is about 6 pages long on fuse box, and NO where dies it again have a chart showing what each fuse if for, very frustrating it has a chart showing fuse box, and all relays and it has numbers arrows for ALL relay' s stating what each is for, but when you get to fuse box, it just says. uses standard fuse box? and an arrow pointing to the whole box, rather than any info on what each fuse is for MAYBE I am missing something, but I have looked and cannot find ANY thing that shows , what each fuse if for and I have a hard copy printed coy of both manuals if anyone can find what they are for, I would be very thankful as I seem to not be able to in the manual! and I cannot get close enough to it to use wire colors to determine that way!
Found this in the two minutes I was sitting on the toilet. https://www.justanswer.com/construc...i-new-holland-lx865-turbo-will-not-start.html
Thinking (pushing) harder here...who cares what each fuse does (at least initially). Just test them all. They're ATC type...just walk a test light down each one.
thanks but to be clear, the first pic/ you show is for the IN CAB fuse block, and that is stating what each fuse if for, and I have gone thru all them and they are good! the second one, again, is like what I have, it shows what each relay is for, but leaves the two fuse blocks , as just, #5 and # there as standard fuse block and optional fuse block, DOESN"T list what each fuse if for again and the problem I have right now is I cannot REACH the fuse block in motor bay, my arms are a about 2 ft too short, and my health issue's are limiting me from getting more creative to get to them So I am trying to LIMIT the guessing game and only having to pull and check fuses in there as there so hard for me to get to them, and as of now don't have anyone to help me, l;ve rather remote and help isn't about! so again, there is NO chart stating what each fuse if for in the Motor bay, JUST the IN cab from MY understanding of things shown *(and what I have seen)
I did manage to get the fuses cleaner(sprayed them with electrical contact cleaner, as they wee dusty, and looks to me like maybe the top 2 on the right side might be bad? or second one down, seems to have a broken wire inside it! just GUESSING still cannot reach them however called a buddy that works on equipment to come help m,e, so, waiting on him to get back to me will update once figured out' but all this was caused by a BAD battery tender that over charged things?
Actually... looks to me like the top 25 is blown. And the second from top 20 is blown too. But only way to tell is to pull and test. My suggestion to pull the machine clear to work on it, would save you a lot of trouble. A couple of 3/4 pipe pieces from a salvage yard wouldn't cost much. PVC won't hold the weight. That's assuming you can jack the machine up.
The two pics I posted appear to be for the same fuse panels. Are you saying that there are FOUR 4fuse panels? As for testing, even though the confines are tighter, you can end probe that style of fuse.
the IN cab fuse , can have two fuse blocks, and mine ONLY has one the IN motor area again, can have 1 or two fuse blocks and mine has TWO there they are different fuse blocks and pic's you posted are of different blocks, , the IN cab one, and then the in motor area one and I get you can test , but I cannot reach fuse blocks to even PULL fuses and if I DO get them out using maybe some extra long needle nose pliers, I am NOT sure if I can get them back in be hanging upside down in a HARD position for me, with my messed up back and hands (fingers don't work very well)
OK managed to get all fuses out and just replaced with all new one's as half of them had turned a whitest color that wouldn;t allow me to check fuse itself, so just scrapped old one's ONCE I replaced with new one ALL dash lights appeared to be working I attempted to start machine (battery still at 13.03 volts , checked before trying to start) machine started RIGHT up, but starter stuck for a few seconds(20-30 seconds ) then kicked off, then while idling, the display, alarm light flashing of and on, then parking brake came on and will NOT go out no matter if brake on or off! I shut motor off went and looked in manual for some idea's on things went to re start machine, and now refuses to start at all as soon as I put key to power starter TRIES to start machine, spinning slower than normal to me, but spinning starter WITHOUT me turning key to even try to start as in normal starting, it starts to try to start on its own? parking brake light keeps flashing as does temp light but will NOT start I only let it try this 3 times in a 5 minute time period with a slight break in between then I tested battery with volt meter, and its now reading 12.87 volts sitting! so battery SHOULD be strong enough to turn faster a little history on this machine, prior to this, I was having starter sticking issue's, starter would start machine fine, but would stick for a few seconds after starting, not disengaging like after starting! not knowing how old starter was on machine(but machine used) I just replaced starter, figured a new one wouldn;t hurt things minus wallet a little! so new starter a few months ago(maybe 20 hrs on machine since new starter installed) that didn;t solve issue, then replaced key switch thinking was retaining energy replaced switch, still had issue don't use machine much, and NOT the best MR fix it A buddy that repairs Heavy equipment for a living, offered to come look at things, just never got here before this new issue started he's been swamped with work and still hasn't gotten here, but says IS coming when he can , so I am looking for help in the mean time any clue what could be wrong now new fuses, battery seems to be fine, have NOT tried to swap it with a different battery YET, but did move machine a little when it did start so that can happen! now easier! why does the starter start to spin as soon as I get power to key? why does it stick once started, and why is it spinning slower than normal now, ? any thoughts or suggestion would be appreciated!
Remove trigger wire from solenoid on starter. Now retry. Still crank at key ON?
that's what my repair guy buddy thought, the NEW starter came with a new solenoid on it and it was doing the same as the old one we replaced so, that didn;t resolve things? starter was ONLY sticking for a few second too then kicked out I guess could have got a new BAD solenoid on new starter too, but that seems like a low odds deal, as did exactly the same thing after replacing
also, I tried hooking up a second battery with jumper cables, and tried to start, but still no GO its reading 0 .4 volts on dash display, even with second(known good) battery connected so what would cause the low reading on dash display?
sorry, meant 4 VOLTS on reading NOT 0.4
what wire on it is the trigger wire?
The trigger wire is the small wire on the starter solenoid, you may have a bad starter relay. Check wire connections ,start by cleaning battery posts and keep going till machine starts .Do you see the corrosion on these wire terminals ,this and other wire connections could be your problem . Good luck Bob
all wire connections are tight and clean but those in the poic behind/above teh fuse block and they were cleaned, they got that way due to under a cover and couldn;t see them, I try an them things clean, there ALL tight too that I can get to
OK on alternator based on wiring diagram, , I have a D+ keyed power, a B+, then a stator output and Aux B + connection so 4 connections total which one would be the trigger connection? so I can disconnect and see if that helps?
OK sorry, trigger wire is on starter not alternator then!
#8 start relay takes low current 12v from the ignition switch (when in crank) and sends higher current 12v to the small wire on the starter. Only one stud on that relay should be hot at all times, the other 2 are crank 12v in and crank 12v out.
thanks, but I have NO clue how to reach the wires on the starter, its behind so many things, that I cannot even see them on it , boom REALLY needs to be up to reach it I should have raise the dam thing when I had it running. BIG mistake on my part but with 6 days of heavy rains a coming, I was trying to keep it under a roof, and the dam thing started so easy on the ONE first try!, had HOPED It was just a bad fuse and could re start and move when weather is better so as of now I am at a stand still I think till I get help and can figure out how to each starter or?? even the #8 relay is almost impossible for me to reach as is! will update as I get more to relay here!
dude, do you even read the responses? You've said a dozen times the battery is good, because it's six months old, because the voltage is high. That's not how this works, that's not how any of this works. If you want to know if the battery is good, there are lots of ways to check, the resting voltage is not one of them, and your resting voltages are BAD. Everybody has told you to pull it out and get access. You say that's too hard, so I'll do it the impossible way, how's that working for you? What do you propose was damaged by the battery tender? Maybe we should ask the zener diode thread what could be damaged by a battery tender on a skid steer. Was the ignition on with the battery tender? I doubt it...
I welcome ALL feed back and I fully understand that a meter reading off a battery does NOT mean battery is good, even said so I have a LOT of medical problems that limit what I can do, so I am TRYING to do what I can battery was good when it ran fine about 2-3 weks started and ran as always did Battery tender failed have went nuts, and fired itself, and it too was rather new about 8 months old and Not a Cheap piece of junk tender so I don't think its that hard to believe that it (battery) could still be OK, if a fuse blew and it was something else other than the battery, or fuse blew and some what protected somethings? the FACT I hooked up a second GOOD known GOOD battery to it and tried to start again, says something OTHER than battery is damaged here from being way over charged, plus doing so didn't effect the displace ratings of voltage at all) and that is what I am sort of asking WHAT that could be its been said the starter solenoid is possible as is a relay to it I am NOT a skilled repair person but I AM trying, as my repair man cannot get here to help me must be nice to have skills and health to TALK down to those that don't I again appreciate all suggetions so don't feel offended you just gave your's and I asked for it! BUT if I pull the battery have it tested and it shows GOOD OR bad, its NOT changing things I have done(added second GODD battery) that should have corrected starting if it was a voltage/battery issue, and it didn;t! so killing myself to get this battery out isn't on the top of my list! as for my static battery readings, NOT sure what you mean they are BAD MY battery in my trucks and other things read about the same static,(12.9- 13.5 volts) so I don';t think them numbers I listed on here are WRONG at all or BAD, to show me a battery issue(and yes a battery needs to be under a load to be tested) as for what was damaged BY the tender, I DON"T Know, but when it over charged by battery to over 15+ volts I imagine a LOT of electronic's could be damaged with that HIGH of voltage pout to them, NO?? when there NOT supposed to have that muc and the reading I got at over 15 volts was LONG after the tender was damaged and DEAD< so NO clue HOW high it might have gone? feel free to tell me more of what IO don't know, its why I asked and I gather how most folks learn, they get info they didn't have before! many times from others that KNOW! OH and pulling it out of building, I screwed up when it was running and regret this but I am here all alone and don't have means to pull it out by myself and if I do, I still do not have means to lift the boom! which seems needed to access the starter!
Mrbb … I don't have the years of experience that most of this forum have but, I have a bit more than you seem to. I would respectfully suggest this machine problem is much more than your skills & physical strength are up to. There is or are several severe electrical issues as you've posted. Gaining access to find them is hard enough with a SS in a well equipped shop. Your situation sounds much worse. Lifting the boom to me, requires either a hydraulic pressure supply or an external hoist and disconnection of the hydraulic to the cylinders. Then, it requires blocking the boom for safety. Don't get hurt. Get help.
I have never seen more than 13 volts on a resting battery that wasn't low on fluid like I described in my first post. 15V resting is low on fluid, a normal battery won't hold that voltage for more than a few seconds after a battery charger is removed. A battery will only take so much charge, then it starts to break down water and offgass, this concentrates the acid so you will get a higher volt reading, but is not holding more of a charge, and won't produce as much amps as a battery that's full of electrolyte/water/acid. Using jumper cables is not the same thing as swapping in a good battery. I don't understand what's going on with your starting issue. I can't imagine what could have been damaged to do this however, and the most logical place to start is with the battery, then connections, then random grounds in the harness. A multi meter testing the various voltages UNDER LOAD will narrow this down most likely. I have no idea what computers would be on this machine, or how a relay could be damaged by the overcharge. If the key was off then the ONLY thing that saw that 15+V was the alternator, and it can handle it and wouldn't cause a no start that I know of. If you suspect any of the removed fuses are bad, test them with a multimeter or test light, then you'll know if something was blown and narrow down the search.
thanks again for the suggestion/info and I am pretty honest with my ability's and skills, there NOT that great on repairs, and I also know NOT to do things I know are past my skills I asked here, as I figured MAYBE someone might know what was wrong, and MAYBE I it would fall into something I could fix I have a repairman coming sine MAY and he has NOT been able to get time to get here, he is swamped with work(as NO one else apparently works on things near me) so, I also figured in the down time of me waiting, maybe ask here and see if again, anything I can try to correct issue's I am limited by health issue's, which for sure ain;t helping here at all, but I am trying! Delmer, BOTH my battery's in my Truck, ALWAYS read over 13 volts sitting static, as do the battery's in my tractors and atv's and snowmobiles and riding lawn mower, many will read 13.6+ volts and there perfectly fine NOW< when this battery read the 15+ volts it did, I had just taken it off the broken battery tender why it read so high, I do NOT know other than it seemed to be over charged due to tender failing the battery shows ZERO sign of boiling over, battery is dusty and clean(as in no acid seems to have leaked out making dust seem dirtier(if that makes sense) any where if it was to have leaked out shortly after I got that HIGH reading, it dropped down to a more normal level, of 13 volts and change and held there for days(again static meter reading NOT under a a load) I get the removing battery from system and ruling it out too, if I could do so, I would, so I appreciate your advice here BUT I still think if the battery was BAD, and adding a second battery of equal size even with jumper cables it should have cause SOME sort of effect on the Machines dash voltage readings NO? s even if mounted battery was bad, adding the second battery should have added something no? and it didn;t, which has me confused I am 99% sure the one 20 and 5 amp fuse's look like they were blown,, LOOKS like they are, but haven't tested, I just replaced ALL them with new one's, and got hopeful when I tried to start afterwards that it seemed OK but will try to do so today and NO the key was NOT ON when the tender was connected, I actually have a power disconnect in cab, that was also off, that should have stopped power going to anything IN cab at least! was installed by previous owner, so NOT sure where it kills at, he told me the dash would have a slight drain on battery when parked for long periods so he added a power disconnect to prevent it, as he too parked machine for months at a time NOT using machine has 1559 hours on it(or that what meter reads, I think meter doesn;t work correctly however) its 1998 yr machine , so not sure what computer from then all do either but while I am waiting for the repair guy to get here, I am just trying to do Anything I can to help , I know fixing is most likely PAST what I can do, but I don;'t mind trying and learning what could be wrong here, plus I can maybe relay info also to my repair guy so he has a heads up before coming here too trying to be pro active if I can be! so again thanks for all info so far
OK so I decided to try this, again, JUST trying what I can do here , that I figure cannot HURT anything, machine or me I decide to disconnect the battery, just to see if maybe anything would re set if I disconnected and then re attached a few hours later(haven't hooked it back up) and also was going to see if possible to get this battery out and put a different one in(plus take and have it tested) there is NO way I can get the battery out, beyond what I can physically handle, that ended that idea on taking it to have tested! so Decided to check all the old fuses, and 3 of them have no continuing my meter, NO audio alert on them, so gather they are bad they are two 5 amp and one 20 amp fuses, , Guessing as didn;t keep track better of what was what, my fault again! the 5 amp from each side and then one of the 20's either top or second one down< as only two 20 amp fuses! I then checked each fuse in the fuse block and I am NOW getting four different one's that do NOT give a audio hit on my meter on the left side, the top 20, and then the 15 and 5 amp and then on the right side the TOP 25 doesn't alert! SO, I went and pulled each of these, and checked JUST the fuse OUT of the block and all test good(audio alert), but when back in fuse block do not and this is as far as I have gotten any new suggestions based on this info? and this was all done with battery disconnected the one's with the arrow pointing at them are the one's not giving an audio hit when testing(old pic, have ne fuses in since and cleaned up some, didn't take new pic)
I've got nothing new. 1 I stand by everything I've said about your battery. 2 second most likely you have a bad connection somewhere. such as... 3 third most likely you have a bad ground, maybe a small one inside the dash 4 if you have fuses that repeatedly blow, then you have a short circuit, follow that wire, or hook up a light bulb across the fuse and wiggle the harness until the light shuts off. 5 0n a 98 machine I can't imagine there is anything that would be damaged by 20V that would affect starting. If there was, it would be related to the safeties switches, seat belt, neutral start safety etc. You need to check the simple stuff, then find a wiring diagram and trace what needs to do what for it to start.
OK thanks again for the info but have to ask you this 1 battery could be bad, I get this 2 if it was a bad connection why did it just start when things got over charged>< worked prior to this 3 the dash lights all seem to be working fine, and when again disconnect switch if off(and was of when over charged) not sure how it would have gotten damaged, but anything is possible I know 4 I am NOT blowing any more fuses, ONLY 3 fuses that were blown, were fuses that were blown when things were over charged, ALL fuses in machine now are new and have NOT been blown since installing them HOWEVER< the four I mentions are NOT reading good when IN machine, but are when OUT of machines fuse box, I cannot get behind fuse block to see wires or wiggle them there bolted flush against the fire wall and cannot really reach well enough to remove, due to my limitations, or would try this 5 , I was told this by someone that works on this stuff, that it could have damaged a controller in the machine? said was some what common on BOBCAT skid steers of older yrs? I DO NOT Know for sure if this is correct, but I have no reason to doubt this person, as he works on equipment for a living and lives a few states away but was told this was possible to have damage from over charging? Doubt this changes anything on your assessment, but thought I would clear up the blown fuse thing,a s I am NOT blowing fuses at all NOW< only one's that got blown were when things got over charged! and again thank you all for the input so far, I can understand its frustrating to you's that know this stuff to have to deal with someone like me that doesn't
OH and all connections I CAN reach I have loosened and cleaned and re tightened, and NO seen difference's
I can't make enough sense to get a clear answer to this question. Have you physically removed the battery, and hooked up a known good battery to your skid steer? If you haven't done that, then that is the FIRST step. A failing battery can cause all kinds of odd symptoms like what you seem to have. Jump starting off another battery is no good . It needs to be a remove and replace job.
NO I physically cannot get battery out of machine, the oil filter and other things are in the way, as without lifting boom and locking it up, its in the way for the battery to fit out of machine so been doing my best to TRY and work with what I CAN do! I get what your saying, to rule it out it needs to be removed, and I just cannot do this, so? is what it is
battery does NOT fit out below lift arms and the distance between oil filter and framing is also too narrow for battery to fit, then muffler/exhaust is in way also trying to have to take more things off than needed, too here , but as is battery doesn't fit to be removed without either boom UP, or removing oil filter, or exhaust!
So then, thinking outside the box. You can obviously remove the terminals, maybe jumper leads from the terminals ONLY (removed from battery on board) to a known good battery on the floor. It won't be ideal, but may be enough to get you running (hopefully). The better way would be to extend the battery leads enough to reach.
thanks, I thought about trying this but at same time, since I also tried adding a second battery to the mix and it didn;t do anything at all, not sure if this will make a difference or NOT I know its NOT teh same thing too, just saying if was just a low/bad battery a second GOOD one added thru jumper cables I would have thought would have showed a difference in voltage reading on dash display, if not enough to spin starter to start, should have changed the treading some NO?? just thinking out load, NOT trying to say I KNOW anything here!
Paralleling a 2nd battery still includes the (possibly) bad battery in its circuit. A bad battery will pull down a good one, rather than the good one lifting the bad one. So the bad battery needs to be removed from the circuit altogether. THAT needs to be done, before anything else.
OK thanks for explaining that, and that makes sence I will try just using the new battery and jumper cables to the factory cables and JUST see if I get a reading change on the display
Unless you have good quality solid copper large gauge jumpers I would be hesitant about using them as battery cable extenders... I have personally seen brand new solenoids burned because someone was in a hurry to crank over a skip loader from a battery sitting on the floor and they wanted to save a few minutes by just using jumpers, all it takes is a couple of volts drop and you start melting things...
thank you for this info, my jumper cables are pretty HD, I'm guessing but I think 4 gauge? used them on many tractors and other off road things over the yrs I DON"T plan to try and start machine using them off remote battery, I just want to see if the volt reading on dash changes when hooked up or not? but maybe will hold off till my repair man can get here, better safe than add to the problems I have now!
Mrbb … A few thoughts that may help your situation. Jump starting from another battery really is a misnomer. The cable clamps don't pass enough power for a starter. We're talking about hundreds of amps. Think about a welding clamp and compare it to the typical jumper cable clamp. It has a jaw with points, not a large contact area. Like a chain, the connection is the weak link, not the heavy cable. Now if you made the connection with real electrical connectors, then you might start the battery with a remote battery.
Can you check battery voltage with a load on it? Like hooking a volt meter to the battery and turning things on and watch the voltage. If it drops several volts a light load you have a bad connection or battery. If you can do it with the starter that would be better yet.
I am all alone at my place so, no, I cannot do so, as need to be in two places at once LOL I finally got in touch with my repair guy and he said he will try and swing by this week so, will update after he is here and either fixes or figures out what is wrong that's all for the help and suggestions
Find four aligator clips and two lengths of wire, make yourself a pair of test leads. Test leads will allow you to sit in the cab, watch the battery voltage on a multimeter, turn the key to on, watch the battery voltage, turn the key to start, watch the battery voltage. Then you can go and move the test leads (one at a time to keep it simple) to the starter body, watch the voltages again. Move the other test lead to the big terminal on the solenoid, watch the voltages. Move the test lead from the big terminal on the solenoid to the big terminal on the starter itself... If you think about what is happening, eventually you'll figure it out. Your repair guy could be the best diesel engine mechanic in the world, but if he's not at least average in electronics, I wouldn't expect too much help from him.
thanks for the tip and HOW TO's my repair guy is a pretty smart cookie, been working on this stuff a 30+ yrs, which I think actually helps me, as its a older machine, and one he has a lot of experience with, and he is good with electrical side of things too, so I have confidence in him resolving things only real issue is , he is so BUSY< time is hard for him to spare its crazy how FEW people in my area do this work, it took me almost a yr to find him, and I called countless places and asked everyone I knew, NO one in my area seemed to work on Heavy equipment , and crazy part is, its every where, tons of cola mines and large off road workings never ever had such a time HIRING someone to work on anything before, people just don;'t seem to want to work either,m cry about being broke, but yet when offered work, they all say NO I wish I was healthier and handier, , younger too, I think someone with skills repairing things could make a killing here, IF they had good work ethic's , which seems the larger issue here but I will update when I get answers s to what all is/was wrong!
a little update here my repair guy has been here 3 times so far , while waiting on parts, doing what all he could in between! so far things that went bad, by either over charging from bad tender, or, just bad timing ?, so cannot say 100% either way, but awfully odd all these things went bad at same time IMO! things BAD< the starter relay, the starter interlock relay, , and the alternator, (waiting on a new alternator now) but have been able to get get up and running, battery is testing GOOD, and holding steady! Also found one bad connection on the back of fuse block NOT reading RPM"S now either, that is alternator related I am told SO, once new alternator gets here, and get some running in, will update again Thanks to all that offered help here, was much appreciated! but getting closer to being corrected it seems!
Good result. Thanks for letting us know.
OK guys just a little more of an update and new question for you's I just had alternator replaced, OLD one was a OEM original from 1997 and 55 amp unit, NEW unit is a aftermarket and 70 amp unit repair guy installed, and seems OK BUT< I am getting an on display reading of a 14.04 volts before all my issue's started , old amp would only read 13.8 volts when motor was running, but with new alternator, I am getting 14.4 volts is this too HIGH, as over charging seemed to cause all my issue's here and am a little worried? as don't want a repeat on things? SO< opinions wanted here please!
IMHO … You're good to go.
Not sure i would put a lot of faith in that readout, my LX565 has started setting off the alarm with just over 10 volts and I've taken a voltage reading right where it hooks to the gauge cluster and it's 14 volts.
thanks, my repair guy said same thing, but was just looking for others thoughts , Better safe than sorry
Check voltage at battery and alternator to confirm gauge reading. Bob
OK so today I went and started the machine up, to check voltage at alt and at battery terminals when machine started(all good there) right off I seen a new reading on the dash display, only now its reading 15.8 volts so, I went and checked at alternator and its reading 16.2 volts there, and at the battery its reading 16 volts when key is on and NOT motor NOT running, battery on display reads 12.6 volts so, I think I still have something wrong, and possibly its the new alternator, and its making too much power? factory alternator was a 55 amp alt, and new one is a 70 amp one? I have replaced any alt over the yrs with higher output one's and never had any issue's and I didn't buy this one due to it was higher output, was just what I found first? and offered free return shipping over others that didn't, so just bought due to incase WHAT IF> side of things? so, any thoughts here, or do you all just think I need a different alternator, it was supposed to be for this machine, and I checked numbers twice before ordering/, so don't think its a wrong PER machine alternator, maybe just a defective one or?
The amperage put out by an alternator is independent to the voltage as far as I'm concerned. A "12v nominal" alternator usually produces about 14v. Think about this comparison. Consider the battery as a type of accumulator, it stores energy. If the battery gives 12.6v when fully charged then it stands to reason that in order to drive energy back into the battery in the reverse direction, then more than 12.6v has to be applied to it in order for the process to work - hence my "about 14v" comment above.
yes I get it it needs to charge with more than it stands at to replace what it uses but I am NOW at 16.volts at the battery,. is that TOO much at 14 I was OK with being there, even a little higher, but at 16 volts being put into the battery the battery is being charged all the while motor is running, so as at some point when motor is running, battery will be fully charged and then will the 16 volts be Over charging it too much will it harm things being that high on voltage being run thru things?
Not according to ohms law. Bob
If you have a automotive electric rebuilder or a good parts store take your battery and alternator in to be checked. One or both may have a problem. Good luck Bob
All this run around and you still haven't replaced the battery with a known good one? Have you also tried more than one multimeter to be sure your readings are correct?
well I did have battery checked and it IS good, so, I KNOW I have a good battery in the machine, was load tested by a chain auto parts store, and I have swapped to a different KNOWN good battery too so battery is NOT the issue here at all and have used two different volt meters as well, mine and my repair guys and both give same readings!