I overheated mine today. Was working it fairly hard pushing up brush in 4WD low. Outside temp in the low 70s. Hope it isn't hurt. I let it cool down a while and drove it to the barn. It never came off hot. I have worked it this hard in much hotter weather and it never got much over 3/4. Didn't see any collection of brush in the radiator. I guess I will have to keep a close eye on it when I top it up and restart to make sure the thermostat isn't stuck.
NH575E, When it was hot did you get a look at the overflow bottle?
It was spewing coolant out of the bottle.
Check the fan belt tension.
AC was cooling fine but I don't remember if it's belt is on the water pump. I will make sure and check it out.
Clean the rad good I take the grill off the front when I do mine.
have you changed the rad fluid before? i changed mine when i first got it qnd found alot of silica looking crap came out the bottom rad hose. It only cost me 80 bucks to do and was well worth the peice of mind. i would agree with tinker and look at the fan belt closely tho. i do have a dumb question for the NH guys..i have a windsheild washer button but for the life of me i can not find a bottle any where for that thing. does your machines have this button on thw right hand turn signal switch?
NH575E, Looks like the Alt. belt drives the water pump from the drawing in the manual, so the A/C could still work fine if the other belt is slipping. I guess there is no doubt that it was really hot if the coolant was boiling out of the bottle. I think the engine is all cast iron, so I am thinking that if you shut if off as soon as the light came on, you should be ok...time will tell tho. Toxic, I sent you a PM.
Toxic I did change the coolant and used the PEAK Fleet Charge antifreeze concentrate mixed with distilled water. I also put in a new 180 degree thermostat since it didn't have one in it. I have a full season on it since I did that. Mine had a washer bag hanging on the side of the console I think. It wasn't connected or working so I threw it away.
A fan belt that has glaze on it from slipping can be quite tight and still slip. I have seen it happen.
Take the rad cap off and see if the water is circulating.
It has no radiator cap. Fills from the overflow bottle on the firewall.
They get nasty inside, radiator tubes don't flow as they should, and/or they get clogged on the outside. I have Roy at Arthur's Auto. I take it to him. It comes back absolutely clean, runs cool. You might want to try one of the radiator cleaners from an auto supply store. I do that every time I change anti freeze. JD 410C was giving me the alarm last summer. I don't know exactly how hot, it didn't actually boil, and it was full. After a flush with the auto supply stuff it hasn't done it again.
Not sure when I will get around to working on it. I might have to try some flush. I considered that when I changed the coolant but what I could see of the tubes through the upper radiator hole they looked clean. Just looked back to see when I changed the coolant and thermostat and I forgot to document it. I know it wasn't last year and I'm thinking it was year before last. The brush I was working in had a good bit of fluff to it so it may have sucked up between the oil cooler and AC condenser. I can see in through my grill and the front of the condenser and oil cooler look clear. Been working the same area with my little tractor and it collected some but not near enough to restrict any air flow.
You have to put a light behind the radiator, and look THROUGH it to see how clean it is. The air don't care how clean the surface looks, the air has to go through the radiator fairly quickly or you'll overheat. That is probably more than 95% of ag and construction overheating, dusty plugged radiators. Bigger equipment will have reverse flow, reversing, or better screens to deal with the dust and chaff, a backhoe makes you pay attention better. A temp gun will tell you the temp of the block, thermostat outlet, water pump inlet while it's overheating or close, and those temps will show you what's going on pretty well, as long as the thermostat is open. If the radiator looked clean inside, you didn't get a lot of gunk in the drained antifreeze, and you added new, then I wouldn't worry about the interior of the cooling system. That gets plugged up when you start adding swamp water every day.
Piddled on it some this morning. The only obvious problem is the reservoir has a hole in the top so it isn't maintaining pressure. I was wondering how it was spewing coolant straight up out of the cover. Got a new one with cap ordered. Cleaned some dirt and fluff out of the fins but I didn't see enough to warrant over heating. I blew it out with the blower then washed it all out good with a homemade wand. You can't use a pressure washer on radiator fins so I made a wand with a long piece of 1/2" copper with the end smashed flat to increase the spray pressure. It has enough force to blow stuff out without bending the fins. Poured a full gallon of coolant mix in and it still wasn't up to level. That is just as well since I need to replace the tank. Didn't see any leaks but it isn't full. Belts are not loose or glazed. It has two belts driving the water pump. I guess I will revisit after getting another gallon of coolant concentrate and get the new reservoir installed. It probably just got hot due to working it hard and no pressure in the system.
I'd think it should run fine with no cap. You'll see how it goes with the new reservoir. The temp gun is the next thing to try if it gets hot again. Even toward the top of the green is hot enough to tell what's happening. What gear were you working in? Lugging in too high a gear could cause the overheating even if everything else was mostly good enough.
I always work it in first gear 4WD. It never gets above second gear on my property and that is usually reserved for driving to and from the barn. I use second gear in 2WD to travel. On the bright side it starts right up. Oil didn't smell burned nor was it overfilled. I plan to change the oil anyways because it was very hot. I'm pretty sure no damage occurred. I wish it had an over heat buzzer. One reason it got as hot as it did is all the warning lights and the temperature gauge are on the side console slightly behind my seating position while working the loader end. I don't usually work the loader end that long before repositioning and using the backhoe but in this case I worked it a few hours without ever looking back at the gauge. That won't happen again!
NH575E, Couldn't you install a buzzer in the system? The sensor looks to be a 1-wire sensor. That usually means it is a ground, so you could add one in as I posted below?? A buzzer like this one: https://www.newark.com/kingstate/kp...GEN-Shopping-NewStructure-Sensors-Transducers The above stated, I am wondering if your coolant level was low, and that caused an overheat. You checked the rad. and belt, and you had to put a LOT of coolant in. Maybe pressure test the system when you get it all back together to make sure that there isn't a leak somewhere.
NH575E, I think I am wrong in my diagram above. Your machine has a gauge, correct? If yes, this will not work. I was thinking a light, which is just a simple on/off. A sender for a cooling fan would do the trick for you (see below). I chose 195 degree, but you could go lower. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO...8812909&utm_content=All Products (Feb28_2020)
The reservoir I ordered turned out not to be in stock. They called me yesterday and said there was one available but it will be delayed a few days. I might drain it down and pull the thermostat while I wait. I'm pretty sure the one I used didn't have the plate in the bottom like the one shown for it. I might go ahead and get a 160 of the correct design. I also need to figure how to adapt my pressure tester so I can check for leaks. I just need to pay more attention to the gauges when I'm working.
If you put a switch with a warning, go higher than 195. at least 220 if you're running 50/50 antifreeze will be plenty of warning. If you have an overflow hose on the radiator cap, you can blow air back through that hose, the thermostat is designed to allow the coolant to suck back the overflow. Or hook to a regulated air supply.
No word on the tank so I assume the dealer ordered it from New Holland and will ship it when they receive it. I drained a couple of gallons out and put a new thermostat in today. Antifreeze was right up to the hose that connects to the reservoir so if it has any leaks it is under pressure. The tank has a large hose that goes from the bottom of the tank to the bottom of the radiator. It also has a bleed hose that goes from the filler neck to the top of the radiator. I can tee my pressure tester into that small hose to check it when the tank is installed. The cap has a 90* nipple on top for over pressure exhaust. I think I will connect a hose to that and stick it out the top of the cowl. That way if it overheats again it will shoot antifreeze right up on the windshield. That is basically what it did with the hole in the top of the tank. Had to pull the air filter housing to get the tank out. O'Rielly's had a tank that was close but no cigar so I sure hope the dealer comes through.
Messick's is showing 3 in stock @ $53.30, including the $18.55 cap. 3 in stock for a 20+ year old machine tells me it either fits a lot of machines, or they are troublesome. How did the thermostat look/test?
When I looked Messics showed zero in stock and I'm pretty sure they listed a higher price. Weird! Thermostat looked fine but I didn't test it. I stuck a 160 in.
That is weird! I am guessing that the thermostat you got was an aftermarket tstat?? I don't see any choices at Messick's for different temperatures.
Yes, I matched up dimensions at O'Reilly's. Stock is 180 I think. I was changing coolant in my John Deere this year and found out 160 was stock on it.
I want the hottest thermostat I can buy. Lots of engine problems are the result of water contaminating oil. Each time you run your engine above 200 degree F there is SOME benefit of evaporating a portion of the water there. A 160 degree thermostat begins to cool at about 160. A 200 degree begins to cool at 200. Once either opens, there is no difference in the cooling rate. I'm sure that failed thermostats have happened. I bet 90% of overheat issues were NOT the fault of the thermostat & the opening temperature of a thermostat has NEVER caused an overheat. Engines want to be hot. 200 -220 is happy temperature for a healthy engine.
true, but the cooling system has to be able to withstand the pressure of approx. 15psi with those temperatures unlike the old systems that only used about a 7 - 10psi system. sometimes the rad cap gets overlooked when diagnosing cooling system problems
NH575E, Did the tank come, and if so, did you get the problem sorted out?
Expected delivery is Tuesday.
What, did they send it USPS...LOL
USPS Priority from Rochester IN. to N. FL. They didn't get it until Thursday and shipped it out Friday. I guess they ordered it in on a stock order to save shipping. They only charged $9.64 to ship so there's that.
Almost missed it. Damn USPS employee scanned it as delivered to a neighbor instead of leaving it at my gate like my normal contract carrier would. I have informed delivery set up so I got an email with the bogus excuse as soon as it was scanned. I tracked her down a few miles up the road and questioned her about it. She said OH, I have that in the truck. When I questioned her about why it was scanned as delivered to a neighbor she claimed she did it by mistake. I took a copy of the notice along with a image from my dash camera of her handing me the package to the supervisor. The image showed the back of the truck with it's ID number. He seemed pretty uninterested but claimed he would talk to her. Last week I had a weekend Amazon package delivery that got scanned as undeliverable because they couldn't access my front door. The package was not labeled requiring a signature and in fact said to leave if no answer right on the label. It ended up floating around for 3 more days before it got back to me. Our regular contract carrier is very reliable and trustworthy. The USPS employees, NOT SO MUCH! SO at least I got my tank and I can install it tomorrow.
LOL...really not funny but it is laugh or cry! I can imagine soon businesses will advertise that they do NOT ship USPS in order to get more sales. I mean if you had a choice of Fedex or UPS over USPS, and say it cost $2 more for those carriers, I bet you would jump on it...I would for sure! Hopefully all will be good!!
My gripe was United Parcel Service. I had a major project in a replacement of a generator transfer, new service, and 100 amp feeder to an outbuilding. The owner had his heart set on using a meter socket new in box, his deceased father had likely stolen from his employer 20 years ago. It came without a hub. There were none to be found locally, so it was shipped from a wholesaler in Maine. It was supposed to come directly to me. Weeks later, I was getting desperate. Nobody seemed to know where it was. Repeated calls, being on hold hours each time, only to be told by UPS that it was delivered weeks ago. I finally pieced together that there were minor deviations from the address provided. I live in a town too small for a post office. Computers move me to the nearest town with a post office. 693 Brooklyn Road Mount Tabor VT Became 69 Brooklyn road Danby. I asked for exact address as it appeared on the package. There is no Brooklyn Road in Danby. The computer flips them to anything with Brook. Danby has Baker Brook Road, Brook Road, Herrick Brook Road, Flower brook Road, Brook Road, I'm sure I've missed a few Brooks. As my package shows in UPS tracking as "delivered" I begin my local search. All UPS drivers deliver to me often. My wife, MORE OFTEN. My son, even more often! Drivers know that Mount Tabor is a different town, street names from Danby won't work in Mount Tabor, or vice versa. 100% of the drivers know me & where I am. 69 Brook Road Danby is a swimming hole in a brook. 69 Baker Brook is a fishing hole in a brook. 69 Herrick Brook is swamp land. 69 Flower Brook Road is steep stream, near a waterfall. When I present all this to the "lady" at UPS, she says "I'm sorry SIR, it was delivered to you." I ultimately found it hidden behind a porch post at 51 Brook Road Danby VT, a house vacant since 1982.
Looks like my machine is back to okay. I worked it a while this afternoon and the temp gauge stayed right on 1/4. I checked with a infrared thermometer when I got back to the barn and the thermostat housing was reading 160 and the lower radiator tank was at 148. The replacement tank is a poor quality light weight POS. Not what you would expect for a pressure tank. The neck and threads are deformed and make threading the cap on straight a real chore. When I pressure tested it I had to loosen the cap and tighten it back tighter than I should have to to stop hearing leakage. The fitting for the small hose has molding ridges that required tightening the hose clamp tighter than I should have to to get it to seal. I hung on to the old tank in case this one fails so I can use it as a template to make one. I drilled a hole in the cowl and attached a hose to the fitting on top of the cap that I ran out there. In the future if it overheats for any reason other than loss of coolant it will shoot the antifreeze straight up in my line of sight. I probably won't make the mistake of running it long without checking the gauge again though.
NH575E, Thanks for the update! I am glad to hear that you didn't hurt the engine...I didn't think you would, if it had an aluminum head, well, that might have been another story. Glad you got it back to work too! Not so happy to hear that the new part was cheesy...I have not seen that in the past when purchasing OEM NH parts.
I gave it a good workout this morning. The temp gauge got a little over the halfway point. I shot it as soon as I got back to the barn and the thermostat housing was at 197F. In just a few seconds it dropped below 190F. I assume it got over 200F while I was working it. The bottom radiator tank was reading 167F. The coolant level remained at the max line and it didn't show any signs of boiling. It's nice having a tank that is clear enough to see the coolant level. In the past I had to stick the hydrometer in to see if I could reach any coolant.
Were those temp numbers with the engine running.? 197 to 167 is very high, even 190 to 167 is a suspiciously high difference for a radiator in good condition. The max temp difference you ought to see between top & bottom of radiator is 12-15 deg. It appears as though you may have a lack-of-flow issue somewhere.
Look for solder bloom around the tubes. It is quite common for that to restrict flow.
The temperatures were taken with the engine running. I credit the difference in temps to the radiator doing it's job. If the temps were the same at top and bottom you would definitely have a problem.
Your temp difference between top & bottom is too high. As posted earlier a radiator in tip-top conditoin ought to give a temp drop of 12-15 degrees, not the 23 degrees your figures indicate. The most usual cause of such a high temp difference is a radiator that is partially plugged internally, thus reducing the coolant flow. You should investigate further IMHO. Tinkerer has already given one suggestion as to what the cause might be.
You need to take the temperature on a similar surface for it to be accurate. Usually the nipples that the radiator hoses connect to works good. Then take the temps as soon as you can after it gets as hot as you can get it. and then again several times as it cools down. 190 and 167 doesn't bother me because the thermostat might be closing already at 190. If it's 210 and 167, then you have problems. Usually running normally should be one third of the green range, makes people feel good that way. over half is higher than the thermostat wants to keep it, but get the temps and know for sure.