Hello All, got a puzzling parts situation and hoping someone has some input, or knows someone with input. the upper track roller on my 455G was squealing all the time. once I was able to get the parts removed (see my post on frozen bolts), turns out the bushings were beyond worn out. Checked the Deere parts "book" and ordered new rear seals, front gasket, and the bushings (2 per roller). the bushings are pressed into the roller itself and came out pretty easy (not much effort needed on the press). The part number for the bushing is M1111T, and is listed for a variety of these loaders/dozers. when the bushings arrived, they had the correct inside diameter, and fit the shaft fine, but the outside diameter wwas too small. the old bushings were much thicker. I wasnt able to get much info, so I went ahead and ordered the entire roller assembly. the first one came in and (of course) I had read the wrong part number and got a roller for a 555G. It was bigger than the 455 part, so I figured I would use the bushings, & shaft. Well, the shaft was the same, but the bushings were the smaller OD like the replacements I received. On we go, I ordered the correct (for a 455g) top roller assembly. they came in and look totally different than the original. the shaft is the same where it goes into the support, but the diameter of the shaft in the roller is much larger and the bushing setup is totally different. The roller dimensions match the original and it appears it will work, however I dont know if it is OEM or aftermarket. It was advertised as Genuine Deere. SO the question is, can anyone tell if the replcement part is aftermarket or a revised OEM part? I have asked the vendor if replacement bushings are available but havent heard back yet. Also, anyone have any thoughts on the original bushings vs the replacements?
A bit unlikely but the old roller may have been bordered out and new bushings made.
I thought about that. And along those lines, I was thinking the quickest way to get the old rollers back in action, would be to have the machine shop make a sleeve to resize the bores to accept the replacement bushings. I would think that would be a rather easy job.
I would just make new bushings. You can get a stack up of errors with each added machined piece because nothing is really made perfect. Thin tubes can be a real problem, measure the wall thickness with a dial calipers in a few places. I like a redesign with a larger shaft how about having the shop turn down the end to fit your pillar Check the size of the O. D. of the old bushing if it is a standard size 0.000 to 0.003 oversize you can order bushing stock from bearing and industrial suppliers and cut to length. The hole can't be tight you need about .003 clearance .002 can be OK but keep everything real clean putting it together .005 won't last as long. Leave the stock in one piece and open the hole up first. Holding it in a lathe and running it is the perfect way to do this job. Otherwise use a vice grip with curved jaws wrap some protection on the bushing and gently clamp it in the middle then clamp its handle in a bench vice. Take a 1/4" diameter piece of rod and band saw or us cutting wheel to split a 4" piece 1" back. Cut 2 pc. of 120 grit cloth or heavy backed sandpaper 1"x2" put them in the slot with the smooth sides back to back. Use 1/4" die grinder they turn clockwise center the sand paper then curl it counter clockwise as you put it in the hole. Sit down steady your arms and run the 120 grit sandpaper in and out steady, centered and straight and don't slip out of the hole while running. You can use the shaft to check the fit. The tighter the press fit the more the hole will shrink. I would call around to heavy equipment junk yards and get a good used one for something like this, maybe with the pillar. Since this is a continuation of the original problem you could keep it on the same string keeping things like John Deere, 455, track rollers ,bushings, frozen bolts, ect. in the title for folks doing searches in the future Cheers
Thanks for the info. Should most machine shops have access to a bushing material supplier? The "old" bushing appears to have a chamfered edge I would assume to aid installation. it also has a groove cut to provide an oil channel. If anyone has bushing supplier info, I would greatly appreciate any leads.
Lots of ways to skin a cat...hopefully I can help, but I'm used to having lots of tools. McMaster-Carr is a good place these bearings may work, cut to size, no oil grove, you can cut one with a Dremel tool if you like. I would, but may not be needed. It doesn't need to be pretty to work. I use to buy bronze (not brass) sleeves from these guys www.motionindustries.com 1-800-526-9328 I have a distributer in town. I know how the the differences in sizes fit together and work and the measuring tools. Thankfully this job is not critical.
Just Google the bearing sizes or look to industrial suppliers instead of heavy equipment. I would get solid bronze not sintered bronze. If your not feeling right about how their fitting together put up another post.