Hello everyone! I'm a newbie here. I recently bought a Case 580B. Runs good, a few probs tho, most annoying is that while it will move itself around the yard, if I try to use implements ( the backhoe has been removed and a nice hydraulic landscaping box takes it's place) it crawls and then stops. The engine doesn't seem to lug down any, just lose all travel, then have a hard time getting it to move again. I tried the east to get to stuff (also cheap) like replacing the pressure regulating springs in the shuttle valve and in the converter/lubrication system. No improvement. Removed the filter element in case it might be plugged, changed the hyd. fluid, etc. There was no gauge so I installed one on the shuttle body port. I start it up with the shuttle in neutral and it shows about 200psi. When I put the shuttle in gear (forward or reverse) the pressure drops away completely and then climbs back up to about 50 psi. Is this what it should do? Also had a handheld gauge in line at the filter output (only had a 200 psi gauge handy) it more than pegged that. Would hate to spend $900 for a pump only to find out what I needed to do was replace the clutch plates in the shuttle. Any ideas? Thanks.
I would suggest you search this forum for posts regarding the pump intake tube that has a screen that is often partially or fully plugged with old gasket material. There is some good reading and it will help you better understand how it all works. Start with this thread: HeavyEquipmentForums
Thanks for your reply Juskata. The link you sent really helped me a lot. I have a feeling that I'm gonna be needing this forum quite a bit as time goes on!
Mickeyb, Welcome the forum and our special kind of insanity. There are more than a few of us on here that have learned from the other more experienced guys and their posts. We'll try to help out if you ask and one of the experienced guys who do/did repair these old girls will offer their advice. The shuttle issue has lots of posts here and the clogged pickup seems to be a common problem and relatively easy to fix, but it takes some time and you will get to see parts of your machine that you weren't planning on. If you don't already have them, the manuals will give you a good idea of what is involved, along with some entertaining reading of posts over the past few years. Have fun and let us know how you make out. We do like pictures and they help others with similar problems and fixes.
Mick.....Welcome to the site i am no expert with these either but im learning slowly what makes them tick .....I see where you said your showing 200psi on the shuttle according to the book it should be between 170-190 and that pressure will drop momentary when shifting from f/n/r but should build right back up to the pressure you have in neutral....in your case 200 which is high according to the book .....And jusk is right about that pickup tube screen it is notorious for plugging up but in your case it sounds like yours is getting oil to the pump and to me if you are getting 200 in neutral but only 50 in f/r it sounds like you are loosing pressure in the shuttle but dont take this to the bank like i said im no expert...What do you think jusk ??????? Also you say you changed the hyd...fluid if your referring to the shuttle oil that is a hy trans oil that goes in there not regular hyd oil or is that what you meant hy trans not hyd oil ?? And like jusk has said we are picture junkies so if you could post some that would be great and us amateurs do our best to help each other on the site and were blessed with the experts on here keeping us on track..... good luck
mick & xpack, The oil may be a factor and if its regular hydraulic oil, I would want to change it up to Hytran Ultra. And no, I don't own shares in that product but as you will find, we all should have bought stock in that... The problem may not be the screen, so with decent pressure could be valve sticking, or maybe wear but as its a 'B', I'm not sure how much is the same as the old 'CK'. I'll give it some thought and a read tonight. The more you understand about how its supposed to work, the easier it will be to troubleshoot your issue and fix it. xpack has posted a contact that he has used for advice and parts and you may want to at least keep that number handy. I'll ask xpack to put up Dale's number again....
Dales # at tractorstuff is 765-378-3396 website e-backoeparts.com From what i understand the 580b is exactly the same beast as the ck as far as the actual tractor itself ...the only thing i know of that is different is the backhoe itself on the b the backhoe is offset to to one side and the hood and instruments are different other than that they both use the same engine and driveline components except i dont think they had the mechanical shuttle in the b's i think they were all power shuttles but i could be wrong about that..... the actual tractor didnt change until the 580 c which i think they are supposed to be easier to work on the driveline and i thought on the c you could remove the shuttles without splitting the tractor boy i wish we could do that on the ck and the b......
Well, tried the screen cleaning trick and it worked! Now have the same pressure in forward or reverse as I do in neutral! Power is there! Now to get started on the minor probs like overheating, brakes, starter issues, etc. Hopefully will soon have a solid uasble machine around the place! Thanks guys for all your help and suggestions! you guys are great!
Glad to hear you got it moving there is a good thread on here by 1968 case 580ck about the brakes you may want to check that one out
well, can't seem to cure the overheating problem. Found no thermostat in the housing, installed new one. Replaced water pump with new. Ran two batches of radiator flush thru system, output appears clean and when garden hose inserted into input seem to have good flow from petcock. no sign of water in oil or vice versa, engine runs smooth and strong so don't suspect blown head gasket. The radiator appears original (old !) so am thinking of replacing it. Anyone have any tips or tricks as to getting the old one out and the new in? Appears to not be much room there! Thanks!
Mick remove that hood the grille and the heavy metal cover that the headlights are mounted in if you havent already so the radiator is all exposed ....There are 2 nuts on the bottom of the radiator that you need to remove and there are holes under the tractor to access the nuts with a long extension and socket ....Then theres no secrets that i know of but having a few choice words they are in there real tight but with enough determination you will get it out...... It sounds like from your post the radiator is flowing good ????? mine is still the original and now is cooling great mine was plugged up pretty good on the exterior with junk between the fins...You might want to just have yours checked at a radiator shop before you invest in new.....
580CK Rad Removal mikey, The rad isn't difficult to remove, but will require some study before trying so that you don't damage the core. To drain the block, there is a plug or draincock at the rear of the block on the left (from the drivers seat) side. The rad drain is on the front right side of the rad. If the holes under are clear, you can drain the coolant into a bucket under the front end. It may be a bit messy, so be prepared... Pull the muffler, and the hood. You may want to remove the oil bath air cleaner but I think the hood can pass by it. The two hydraulic lines under the hood on the left (from the drivers seat) go to the shuttle oil filter and the oil cooler in the rad. You can disconnect the hoses going to the rad at the filter housing and at the other hard line. There are two nuts on studs on the bottom of the rad. The cast assembly that holds the front axle and is bolted to the front of the engine has several holes in the bottom. On mine these were fully blocked with junk, so I couldn't see the nuts. Once I cleaned them up, I could get at them with a wobble socket and extension from below. The holes are slightly offset, so you will have to get the angle figured out. Once the nuts are off, you can disconnect the top and bottom rad hoses. If you are replacing them, the bottom one could be cut, as its tight without taking more off the front end. I would suggest removing the fan before pulling the rad, so you don't damage the core. I removed my radiator as part of tearing the front end off to pull the engine. Once I had it out, and cleaned up a bit, I decided it was time for a re-core and its at the shop now. I looked for pictures of this part of the project, but don't have any that would be of any value to you. Take a few minutes to see what is involved, look for those holes to access the nuts on the bottom of the rad and you'll have it done in no time. Edit, I went out and grabbed a couple of shots of the front end lying outside. It shows the holes in the cast from below and the slots in the plate that the rad studs sit in. The angles are a bit odd as its kinda collapsed where we rolled it out of the shop into the rain for now. Ha, ha, I see xpack beat me to it while I was fixing spelling mistakes and taking pictures. He's the man...
Well, radiator removal started today. When I looked, discovered that I had to remove the massive front counterweight! Not fun but accomplished. The access holes for the radiator bottom nuts were so full of old grease, gravel, dropped bolts and washers it took me quite a while to get to the nuts. The radiator looks pretty clean as far as the fins go ( can see thru them and see fan blade etc.) but the oil cooler has been bypassed so this unit is going! Looking forward to getting the rad out tomorrow and being able to do a more through inspection. Also plan to flush the block as much as I can then installing the new rad when it arrives. Found a pretty good deal online for a brand new unit complete with oil cooler, $406.25 + shipping. Sure beats the $1800.00 that Titan Equip. down in Phoenix wanted! I wanted to post some pics of the project but don't know exactly how to do it (sizing requirements, etc). Anyone who can guide me in that process? I would sure like to share pics of my girl as I think she is really a beauty, a bit in disguise at the moment, but a beauty none the less!
Pressure test your radiator cap. My 977L was running hot, tested for head gasket leak, thermostat etc. It was a $8.00 radiator cap, old one would not hold 15 psi.
The forum helped me so much. The guys here are the best
Thanks Rob for your thought. I had thought of that early on in the process, rather than testing the cap, I just replaced it.
Well radiator is out and getting things cleaned up waiting for new radiator to arrive. Here are some pics of the project so far...
No pics showed up so I guess I don't know enuf about attachments to get that done yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
mick......when you open up the box to post something there is a bunch of icons at the top of that box... the icon that looks like a square box is the one next to the last one all the way to the right ....when you put your pointer over it it will say insert image click on that and give it a try......
I keep trying...every time I upload an image it shows a list all with an error bubble. If I click on the bubble it says error=2038. I never have problems attaching pics to emails etc. this is puzzling!
you might try either uploading from your hard drive or from a disc i get a error now and then but usually when i try the other one it will go..........beyond that if your like me with a computer ya might need to hire a 6 yr old hahaha My kids bail me out when i need it......
New radiator is in and working!! A little concerned tho about how warm the temp gauge says the converter temp is running. Anyone have an idea of about what that temp should be ? (in degrees F) Also, when I check the level of the shuttle fluid, should I screw the dipstick in or just set it on the threads? I am checking it with the fluid warmed up and right after shutting it off. All in all tho, I am getting really happy with the purchase of this machine, now that I have all the power I need to the rear wheels and am able to work it for more than 5 minutes without having to shut it down because it's overheating. Have learned a lot in the process. I like that working on it is a lot like the older cars that I grew up wrenching on, no college degree required! Case sure built them to live long and prosper! Thanks again guys for your patience and help to someone who never really worked on this kind of machinery in his life. You have all been great!
Mick ......I have a temp gauge for that converter and mine runs about 130* and the water temp runs about 170* but i havent run it in real hot weather yet it was about 50* outdoor temp when i got the 130*oil temp and the 170* water temp ........... I screw my dipstick in to check the shuttle and the rearend oil............ Dont feel alone with not much knowledge on these and im sure you will gain plenty by working on yours i learnt a lot this winter with mine and this site and the guys on here are very helpful......... What are the temps yours is running ?????????
You may be trying to upload a photo that is too big dimension-ally. The maximum size it can be is in the list below. Or it could be the wrong format.