Hello what is the best way to remove pre combustion chambers from a D315 cat engine thank you
Get the precup tool from Cat. You will save a lot of time and frustration. They will need to be torqued back in the head also. Someone may know the tool number but I don't at the moment.
Thank you Are the precups sealed by threads only. Im waiting on my book for the D315
Im not familiar with that particular engine. Most Ive seen in the past have an oring seal on the perimeter and a spacer on the threaded shaft. If you are going to reuse your precups, be sure to install the precup in the same hole, with the same spacer, as you removed it. If you replace them, the spacers come in different thicknesses so once the precup is torqued, it is clocked in the right position. If I am wrong on this engine, someone will surely say so.....LOL
As I recall there is a copper seal on the bottom with different thicknesses and an O ring on the top. The precup needs to have the hole for the glow plug end up somewhere close to the valve cover so the wire doesn't get burned on the exhaust manifold and it is easy to hook up. That's why there are different thicknesses of copper seals.
See...……...I didn't know those were copper! LOL
With no S/N to go by it is not easy to answer 100% correct but I'm thinking that the D315 may have the old two piece pre-chambers such as these: If so I believe you need the following tools or figure out how to do the job with something else. I believe where I worked we had those tools and may have used them once in 45 years, maybe on a D399 genset?
I KNEW someone would get this right!
Ah my bad s/n 7U16081
Go over to ACMOC web site they have better misinformation on the old D-4s. Bob
Wow, I thought I was old! I've only seen the one piece pre cup. I might very well be wrong on the material for the bottom seal. It might have been cast iron? Someone will correct us.
All I remember are the steel ones (maybe cast).
7U1-19,786 uses the 4F8517 non-glowplug chamber but the retainer and outer seal is a different outside diameter than shown in kshansen's post. Usually you can get by with just the 5F-8358 splined wrench (bolt) for removal which you can find on ebay. Bottom seal washer in copper is preferred but current Cat part is just coated steel.
That's better now if SIS had information on that older equipment! Might be good idea to do like Bluox suggests and check over on ACMOC.. As to what the bottom seals are made of, on the newer engines like the 3306 and D348 types, seems like there were either steel or iron. When was the last time someone referred to 3306 and D348 as "newer engines"!
Good morning everyone I have been working on my grandfather's D47u. It hadn't been ran for years. I installed a new oil pressure gauge/ temp gauge to see what condition the engine was in. I also replaced the radiator core. Genereal radiator in Chicago made it for me. It was only 285.00. I changed the oil and filter and also the fuel filters. I believe i have a solid machine. Today i want to change the transmission oil. Im going to flush the case with fuel oil due to condensate build up in oil. My question is what oil should i put back in. We dont run the tractor in below freezing weather. I believe it requires 4 1/2 gallons. Just not sure of the type and weight of oil. Thank you
Is that a manual transmission or a power shift?
All manual back then. Use SAE 90 gear oil.
7uD4 is a direct drive. Straight 50w to2(engine oil) or to4 spec Just shy of 5 gal sounds about right.
Thank you