Its about that time where I need to rebush and repin the my 580k backhoe. I did this to a JD I had and it was not easy, I did not have the right tools. Some of the case bushings are 2 inches long and would assume the force needed may be close to 20 tons. Would like to know how the dealer replacing these bushings, looked through enpac and didn't see anything that would do the job. need a cylinder with a hole so I can use threaded rod to pull the bushings in. a few years ago the service department told me they used a screw/nut set up to pull the bushings in. anyways any advice would help, doing the swing tower first. greg
Put the new bushings in the freezer or use liquid nitrogen or dry ice to get them frozen and you should be able to tap them in with a dead blow hammer. Some will just drop in. MAKE SURE you have them in the right place though because when they start to thaw out they will start expanding. Nitrogen works the best but isn't always easy to come by. Speed is the key here. Did you forget about this thread or did the freezing not work?
Oh the freezing works it'll shrink the OD of a bushing or shaft.
I've pressed them in with a bottle jack, pulled them in with an old screw type puller but as CB said put'em in the freezer over night and work VERY VERY FAST. Another key is to clean all parts to be assembled and lightly oil the holes with let's say a whole jar of Vasoline. Well maybe not a whole jar but don't be scared to use plenty. Freez'em,Grease'em and start'em straight and all should go well.
we just deep freeze the bushings overnight, and put STP on the race, they tap right in
Being a toolmaker, I also cheat a little, I'll grind a land on the OD that's a thou or two smaller than the bore for an 1/8" or so, to help line it up and make it easier to start into the bore. If you have access to a machine shop sometimes that can be a big help in difficult to start bushings. Mark
Yup, leave them in the freezer overnite and pound them in with the sledge.
funny seems like every time we have to put new bushings in we are always taking a center punch and putting little dimples on the in side of the hole so that the bushings have something to grip to. we probabbly wait alittle to long before we we bush somthing. the haveing to freeze then problem would be a good problem to have i think
i always pack them in a cooler full of dry ice over night and then the next day you can just lightly tap them in place. have anything ready at arms reach before you start though. theres no stopping once you start doing it till its in place or you're screwed.
Freezing works well, nitrogen better than dry ice or freezer at home. But wait, you said this was Case product, right? In that situation, most new bushings will drop in with a minimum of fuss or a slight tap of very small hammer. Never met a Case with tight bushing bores. For swing frame bores, make sure you use something to stop the new bushing from falling out the other side. Good luck!
Yeah, the freezing method is the answer. We did a 410C hoe using that method, and even applied a slight bit of heat to the bores before we dropped the bushings in, and they just about fell into place. Beats $90.00 + per.hr. at the shop...
just did a 950F loader frame i just did this to our 950F,and my apprentice got a lesson in how fragile a frozen bushing can be.we packed them in dry ice for a couple of hours,ambient temp was 97,and the parts had been in the sun,all day. Russ,my helper,tried to line up one for the lower tilt link,using a 16 oz ball peen,then switched to a 12 pounder.shattered like lead crystal. my advice is to use an old pin,if you can.better line up,and your not striking the bushing,itself.once you start driving,DO NOT STOP.if you use a lubricant,make sure it doesn't get gummy at low temps.
Welcome to HEF SouthOnBeach! :drinkup
Thanks for the welcome Countryboy :drinkup
Great info all... my time for this is coming soon. Thanks much
if you can ever get a hollow ram for a port-a-power then use a large grade 8 or better all thread and pull them in. We use the dry ice method at our store but the bigger shops use Nitrogen. Be careful what ice chest you use because the dry ice will ruin them sometimes. I have used LPG before too but don't like to talk about it LOL.
... ... ... OCR
bushing's sound like alot of fun I picked up an 580 SE for some acerage work. A little worn and tired is about right. PO was sure to show me right off the pin's and bushing's were loose, and ran me thru a full demo. No regret's at this time anyway. But I do have bushing isssue's. Thinking's I'll hit the hoe bucket first, no worries on too much weight and a chance to see how the process work's/angle of attack. The pin's in the bucket and the stabilizer arm's are mucho loose, as much as an 1/16" of visible light. The bushing's are in place, but the pin's seem small. Is there a reference I can use to determine the proper pin size? And for that matter the bushing size as well? Being a machinist these part's seem pretty simple to have one of my apprentice's fab up. Thank's for reading, Chris
I think using a hollow core ram and threaded rod works best, have used nitrogen before aswell put found if you dont give it long enough and try fitting the bush you can get stuck half way, not fun at all. The hollow core ram works great, its safe and you dont risk damaging the new bush. you get buy s/h them on Ebay.com for a good price, finding them over here s/h is like finding leapracons ( they are out there just cant find then)
small dia bushings , in thin frame members,hyd ram should work by itself,using a little antiseize,or stp.cheaper to use allthread and custom cut plate as washers,then heat the frame bore with a rosebud.use this method for backhoe bucket bushings,have all this on my truck,nothing to buy,no ice or coolers to fuss with.
It is good to have that problem. I have a 590 Turbo with a swing tower to boom (inside) bushing that fell out when the grease was removed. It looks like the pin retaining bolt on that side was loose for a long time. If the swing tower casting is bored oversize, where do I find an oversized inner boom pivot bushing? The Case part number is D144162 for the replacement bushing.
Freeze-in-Bushing Can anybody tell me what is the composition of material is used to produce freeze in bushes. I also looking for some sizes on these bushings applicable to Demag H135 Excavators. We have some part no's. Help is in this matter will be highly appreciated.
I machine my replacement bushings from tool steel and my replacement pins from 4140. I usually weld the bushings in but with the right tolerance they could be frozen and installed. Time to next replacement is literally doubled.
Most pins and bushes i use are machined from EN24t steel and then case hardened to about 60 rockwell! on amachine of that size they would need to be to this spec at least, or you a macine shop, or end user?
Hi Frogfarmer. What grade of alloy are you buying as tool steel? The thing about machined larger bushings is you have more time to run it before it damages machined over bore. I use 1018 - 4140, depends on use, havent had to rebore yet. Usually use hollow ram to install and grind small taper on end of bushing to start it. Thanks for the info.
I said tool steel because I dont remember the exact numbers and didnt want to guess incorrectly. I will check and try to get back I'm not at the shop.