I have Cat 304CR NAD02115. I purchased the correct service manual but there is next to nothing about steel tracks in there except how to set the tension. My tension is way off. The spec is 1.0-1.4 inches and mine are 2.75 inches (see picture). My problem is the grease fittings to tighten the tracks are so far forward, I can no longer get a grease gun on them. I think if I remove one link from the tracks, I can get the tracks back to where the grease fitting will be near where new tracks would be. I believe I've found the master pins (see picture). They look like maybe someone else broke them out a little at some point (see picture). I'm not the first owner of this mini excavator so not sure what was done. Does anyone agree that this is a good plan or big mistake?
I agree. That is the master pin. See the attachment that shows the Track Link Group, the track assemblies minus the track shoes in other words. You will note that the LH & RH links for the master are different Part Numbers than the regular links. Therefore to remove a link you will need to remove three pins in total. The master pin, then the first and second pins to the left side of the master link as shown in the diagram. the arrowed link is the one that will be removed. You will need a large hammer, suitable drifts, and probably an oxy-acetylene torch with a heating nozzle on the end of it. Splitting the track over the idler is probably favourite as it better supports the links.
Thanks Nige! Going to give this a shot.
Sorry I didn't completely finish editing the parts file. See below.
Just saying sure looks like a lot more hole around the master pin than there is pin
It does look funky doesn’t it. When I first saw it, I got worried and then noticed the other master pin looks just the same. I’ve had this excavator for over a year now and must have pulled over 500 stumps with it and never had issues with the pins coming out. Of course this could be wearing those bushings in a bad way I guess. I did have the track come off once before I knew how to tighten them and putting those bad boys back on by yourself with no help is something I don’t wish on anyone.
I’ll post again when I get to working on it but that won’t be for another month.
I was assuming that the OP knew the link groups were worn out because he was asking about how to remove a link. There is a reason why the adjusters are so far extended that the grease zerks are no longer accessible. It's called wear.....
Before you do anything find out how many links there should be and how many links you have. A link may have already been removed.
My point is getting the other pins out might be a real pain I’m almost sure there is a large notch worn in the pins
Can you please help me understand how I would know how many links it had and why removing a second would be a problem?
Check against the attachment I posted above. IIRC the link group has 37 regular links plus the master link, so a total of 38. How many links can you count on your machine.?
Unfortunately I can’t count them right now because I live far away from my land where the excavator is. I’ll update when I am able to get back.
Because the pins could be so worn they'll start breaking, usually happens when working in a limited access job site and takes 10X longer to repair. When you get back to the machine can you take photos of the sprockets and post them here? They are a very good indicator of how bad the chains are.
Ah. I got your point now. I will take a picture of the sprocket. If the sprocket is good but the chain pins or chain is too bad, I wonder if it would be cheaper to convert to rubber tracks. I believe it had rubber tracks at some point because I noticed my roller bearings were toast. The excavator came with three extra rollers for steel tracks (no center groove) but the ones I replaced had a groove in them for rubber tracks. Wondering if converting back to rubber tracks would be cheaper as cat parts are so dang expensive.
How far is the idler ears extended from the frame? If not too far, I'd put spacer(s) between the idler and the grease jack.
If I remember correctly, about 1 inch. Seriously doubt more than 1.5 inches.
Spacing idler out would be a lot less aggravating
I run an NAD 304 in very steep and rocky land and have been thinking of steel track conversion, though people have expressed skepticism either about the aftermarket versions or whether an aging undercarriage and underpowered machine for its weight can handle the extra weight. What do you guys think about steel track on these things? I wondered if any of them were even ever supplied with steel... They do make and supply them - I just got a quote from Cat during an undercarriage sale, $6744 for the groups, 158-4766 and shoes 158-4777 plus the bolts and nuts and guide plates. 158-4766 shows 38 sections, 135mm pitch: https://parts.cat.com/en/catcorp/158-4766 People also warned me about the adjusters on the thing, and I do have trouble with getting the right side tight enough; I've thrown it off the idler a couple times on a nasty pointy rock. I assume at some point I loose it badly and have to pull apart the adjuster to see the piston full of rocks and clay. T.I.A.
Mine are the steel tracks with rubber shoes on them. The shoes are pretty chewed up but it doesn’t bother me as I only use it in dirt. Wish I could tell you the difference between steel and rubber but I’ve only ever ran it on steel.
A 1" spacer would work for you as long as your idler block is at least halfway in the track frame. If it hangs out more than that you are just asking for trouble. Your pin and bushings are severely worn so know that you risk breaking a pin and the track coming off..............probably while you're in 12 inches of mud.
Thanks. Does a spacer block need to be attached to the idler wheel part that contacts the expansion rod or can I just drop a 1” metal block in there. I think I saw in the picture the other person sent that it appeared he bolted it on which would mean I need to drill and tap. What I don’t understand on that picture is it looks like the nut and bolt heads would come in contact with the expansion rod instead of the spacer block and I would think it would smash the crap out of those bolt heads. Of course I could countersink but that’s even more work.
It needs to have the spacer drilled and the yoke bolts going through it to retain it. Just dropping a block in there.....it will just fall out and get lost.
Ok thanks.
This my PC88MR-10. They (all of them) keep selling us 74 link rubber tracks. It needs 72. If I don't have the spacers in there, it consistently blows the grease jack seals. This is on both my PC88MR-10 & PC88MR-8, all four track adjusters.
Thanks!