I thought this would be a piece if cake. Unhooked the ram side of the support cylinder. Hooked up my pin wrench and the cap turned. Unfortunately it is just spinning. This is an early cylinder without the set screw to hold the gland in place. I applied air pressure to the cylinder to hold the gland, but it still will not break lose. It just turns. Thought about heating the cap, but thought I would ask first. Thoughts/suggestions?
It sounds like this is the securing nut style with the wire ring, you know how this style of cylinder works, and the gland is spinning with the nut? Use hydraulic pressure, or a blunt punch and hammer.
That's what I figure, the whole gland is turning. Looks like they added a set screw later on to stop this issue. Unsure how to get it to loosen. Have used air to hold push the piston against the gland, but it has not broken loose yet. Just turns.
Did you remove the wire ring ? Perhaps I have the wrong type of cylinder in mind. But doesn't the gland have to be pushed in and then the wire ring is removed through the little slot. Then the gland, rod and piston can all be pulled out.
Thanks Tinkerer. I heard about a wire, but have not learned how to remove it. You say "little slot" are we talking the indent where the spanner wrench fits in? I am able to see a space under this indent. I will see if there is a YouTube video on removing the wire, but of anyone can give me instructions for removing it, I would appreciate it.
Is this the style you're talking about? at about 3:00. The locknut ring has to unscrew before you can push the gland in to remove the wire retaining ring. To get the locknut loose, you need to extend or retract the cylinder fully with the hydraulics and knock it loose with hydraulic pressure on it. Or try a hammer and punch.
That appears to be the same cylinder. I tried loosening the cap with the cylinder pressurized with the hydraulics. Gland still turns. I am going to hood a come-a-long onto the piston so I can put more pressure on the gland and try again.
Really??? it turned with the hydraulics extended? Use some heat on the nut, clean the paint up first, try tightening it to get the nut loose.
Yea, that is why I posted. I would have thought it would have held the gland really tight. Tried tightening it, still slipped. That is why I was thinking there is something else holding it. Heat is usually the solution, so that may be where I need to go.
Could you post a photo of the cylinder end you are having problems with ?
Did you have a helper holding the controls while you tried the nut? it will lose pressure if you're not holding it. Or we could be talking about different cylinders...
That is what I am wondering also Delmer. Something just doesn't add up with the information we have so far. Hence the request for a much needed photo of the cap and /or the gland. A close up photo would be nice.
Thanks for the assistance. I got back out to the backhoe today. Here are pictures. When you are talking wire. You are referring to the cylinders that have a small window that you feed a wire into? I don't see any place on this cylinder where a wire would go into.
Ok, That is not the wire retained style I had in mind. You need to unscrew the cap that is on the end of cylinder. It would be good if you could make or get a spanner wrench that will fit in the notches in the cap. Put some blocks under the stabilizer to hold it in a level position.You don't want to remove the cap with the stabilizer up in the air like it is in your photo. Here is a photo of a spanner that I am referring to.
Thanks Tinkerer. I ordered a wrench just like the one in your picture. It is supposed to be here tomorrow. I reattached the cylinder as I needed to use the backhoe. When I work on it, I have it detached from the base level with the ground with a bucket under it to catch the oil. I was using a 3 foot chain wrench on the first try. It turned the cap, but as stated, the cap it was just slipping in the cylinder. Will try keeping the hydraulic pressure on it this time
I don't know if this photo is exactly like your cylinder. But, maybe it is ok for reference. It is similar to the one in the YouTube video posted earlier. The cap you are trying to remove does not hold gland in by itself. The gland is held in by an internal snap ring. It the cap rotates and does not come out of the barrel it probably has had the threads stripped. Just a guess on my part. Maybe you should start thinking about taking the entire cylinder to a professional repair shop If the threads are in fact stripped. Put your computer curser on the image and click it to enlarge the image.
That sure sounds like a mess.!!??
I have a 310 w/ similar cylinders that I have to rebuild. My studies prepping for the job indicate you have 2 local options. 1st is to use an air hammer, the other is to air up the cylinder to force the gland fwd and prevent it from turning along with the retainer ring and try to use a spanner. I forget the actual torque, but the manual calls out a $700 Deere spanner and a torque multiplier as I recall. The non local option is to take it to a shop if they’ll do it for a decent price. FWIW, I’m going the air hammer route.
Yes air hammer
I also have a 310 and in the service manual it recommends removing the cylinder from the machine and putting it in a bench vise,clamping the cylinder just behind the retaining nut to hold the internal gland nut stationary while attempting to loosen the retaining nut.
Putting it in a vice is one way to do it. It won't come apart with pressure on it. That ring locks the gland tight, you have to push the gland back in to remove the wire retaining ring, you WON'T push the gland back in under pressure. Once the nut is removed, then release hydraulic pressure and proceed as usual.
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