I have a tooth bar with 156 series teeth on my 310B. Changing teeth and couldn't get one pin all the way through. Tried driving it back and forth, no movement. Even cut tooth off and still no luck. Blocked bucket for support, used 3lb and 8lb hammers and various pin punches etc. Learned on others to line up from bottom with old pin and let new chase out. I am thinking about taking the tooth bar off and maybe the pin could be pressed out, but wanted to check here first for ideas.
Have you tried heat or pb blaster
Blow it out... Heat plenty both sides first then rock steady through the middle. Once a hole is cut through the middle it usually relives it. If not just burn a slit and it will tap out. Good luck.
RJ-Blaster yes. Heat no, are you thinking of heating the shank or pin? I could heat things up with map gas torch. I hate to say, I have cutting torches, just don't know how to use them and don't want to mess the shank up. SP-I may have to get help with this cause I can't cut well with the torches, I'm especially concerned with cutting in a shank. It's good to know it can be done.
Mapp probably won't do anything. You want to blow out a little of the pin. This should be a hollow roll pin, right? that should be easy to cut a little out of the middle with a cutting torch, you already have the hole through the center if you can clean it out with a drill. You don't need to cut the whole pin, it will heat up, expand, and once it's cooled completely it will tap out easy. The rust between the pin and the shank will help keep the oxygen from cutting into the shank, and the mass of the shank will keep it from starting as fast as the pin.
I have the coil spring pins on my one hoe bucket. The are like a really heavy duty roll pin. They tend to break though. I tried the punch idea... then the bigger hammer idea, mangled the punch up is all it did. Then I resorted to the torch, all you have to do is get a little bit of a hole, then it almost drops out. You think, wow that's tough torch work, and its not due to the spring pin being a lot smaller in mass compared to the shank, it melts a lot sooner than the shank. Also for some reason, heat doesn't transfer rapidly between to pieces of steel. That why you can cut slack adjusters off s-cams splines, and nuts off bolts with little collateral damage.
Here are a couple of ideas from my former days doing undercarriage work. Try and bore a hole through the pin, then use the hot wrench to blow the material from the inside out. The bored hole gives an exit path for the molten metal. Another is to heat the pin red hot then shock it by placing a dripping wet rag on it. Good Luck.
The pin is finally out :drinkup and I wanted to share my experience. Thanks to everyone for their replies and I defintely appreciate the responses and certainly considered all and tried or use some. In no way would I say my experiences were best but worked for me this time... eventually.:duh Before I explain what I did, I forgot to mention earlier, that a drill bit and a punch were broke off in different ends of the roll pin. Someone mentioned about getting a hole started with the torch, so this may have made a difference in some responses. I tried the cutting torch without much luck and was afraid to mess up the shank so I stopped with the torch. Tried punches, heat, pb blaster repeated numerous times without and luck. Punches either bent, broke or got stuck. Ended up drilling it out with slightly increasing sizes of bits ending with cobalt bits. Used punches along the way hoping it would free up. It finally did punch out after using the 5/16 bit (pin is 3/8 od) all the way through the 3/8 bit half way, caught the side with punch and it came out. I had several hours into this. I am sure you guys with real experience would have gotten it out with less effort and expense. Obviously, the best thing to do is to avoid this and I know now that I could have, by lining up from the underneath with an old pin or punch slightly in to align and started the new pin from top. Also, when the pin didn't align first is when I should have stopped, but I used a bigger hammer and made things worse. Somewhere on HEF someone (maybe a professional mechanic) said something about costing themself hours by making extra work and learned to think things through, AMEN. I respect the professionals more each time I have to work on a piece of equipment. Thanks guys.
As long as you learned a better way to do the job the next time a similar problem raises it head you are ahead of the game. I and I'm sure many here wish that every time they had a problem that they finally solved they had thought to write it down in detail for future reference. Sometimes a problem only comes up every ten or more years and it's easy in the rush of work to remember what worked many years ago. One good thing about these computers is if you make notes on a job you can often find them just by doing a keyword search.
I have been following this thread and finally remembered a tool called Pin Master by Davom. I don't have one but someone may want to buy one after reading Scout's ordeal. Here is a link to it. http://www.pinmaster.com/item.asp?iid=250
Tinkerer, that was a nice suggestion, but I cannot find a series 56 model... It looks like it designed more for the teeth that use the steel pins with the rubber center. Scout, as long as you learned something the effort was not wasted. Like I said, I've fought with mine too for about 30 mins, ended up having to call it a day early so I could have torches to fix it. At that point, torches were my last option. Now that I've cut a couple out, at the first sign of trouble, that's what I do.
I have been thinking about one of these for the backhoe bucket pins with the rubber in between metal, it would make the middle ones easier. On those, I have sometimes been able to reuse. Putting back in I use pliers to compress to start, then work one metal side then the other. I'm not sure that tool would have helped with the loader toothbar roll pins, especially after I smashed the one with a big hammer. With my luck I would have broke that too like the punches. My toothbar looks like this