Our Bobcat 773 G Series has 3,100 hrs on it and the drive chains were getting loose. You could hear them slapping around while driving machine. Bought machine new, it has moved many truckloads of attachments. It's about ready for a new coupler, 3rd one. It's been a dang good machine. Figured it's time to rebuild the drive system. For any of you Bobcat owners that wonders what's down in there, here's a few pics. Get the old girl on stands. Have to pull the axles to remove drive chain sprockets. After removing axle sprockts and drive chains, here's a pic of the drive motor. You have a motor that's mounted on a motor carrier that's bolted to side of chain case. The motor carrier houses the shaft that sticks into chain case and has the drive sprockets on it. Here's one of the removed drive motors. Seal is distorted, going to replace it. Here's a disassembled motor carrier. You have to pluck that big seal out of the inside, then you can access the large snap ring that retains the shaft on the bearings. It all comes apart fairly easily. Biggest PITA...the motor carrier will not come out the access hole in the side of the Bobcat, you have to remove enough components to lift it straight up out of the belly of the machine. Total parts from Bobcat; new chains, axle seals, motor carrier seals, and related gaskets, about $617.00. Decided to replace all the bearings in axles and motor carriers while I was in there, that's another $390.00 for Timken Bearings from bearing supplier. A little over $1,000 dollars in parts.
Hi Atco, As i am in similar process of disassembly of my 863 to eliminate a few issues so might as well do chains also as one drive axle seal is leaking, a few questions pop up, how much is too much stretch in chains? does anyone have had them snap? Are there aftermarket chains available or BC only? Do you have to remove motor carrier to remove chains? Thanks!
Pretty cool. We had the rear axle bearings replaced in our 763G in Aug. I went to replace the seals, since they were leaking, and lo and behold, the outer bearings's cages were broke . If it had been front the front, I would've tried the repair myself, but there's too much stuff over the rear for me to try, even with the service manual. Have you guys had any problems with the computer in your's? Ours went out in spring, kept flashing athe trouble code telling us there was an alternator/charging system problem. New alt. didn't fix it:Banghead, but the $800 computer did. Our machine has 5300 hrs. on it, and besides those headaches, it's been a good machine. I'd love a counterweight kit for the back, as some of our round bales get a little heavy for it, but such is the life for a skidloader.
Hey Andy, haven't actually seen one pop, but i'd imagine things would get ugly if one did. Repaired one broke on a Mustang once, did quite a bit of damage in there, and we figure replacing chains is cheaper the replacing busted chains and all the carnage that follows. I would think someone could find a alternative replacement, not sure what the chain spec is though. The are Diamond brand chains. And I'm replacing with the continuous link chains, no master. The originals have lasted 3,000 hrs, and the bulk of that is the machine driving. If you have continuous links, you either have to cut the chain to remove, or remove the motor carrier to remove chains as left and right drive sprokets are practically against each other. If I get to continue assembly tommorow, I'll snap some pics of chains and sprockets installed. Hey trukfan. This has been a really good/reliable machine. Haven't had computer or BICS problems. The only recurring problem we have is it occasionally, for nor appearant reason, fries parking brake solenoid. It did it once while one of our workers was going full tilt forward. Talk about a sudden stop! Now that would stretch chains. As for our bearings, they weren't really bad, I could just see signs of scuffing on the cups. I told the boss, "nows the time to do them, your basically rebuilding the whole underdrive". Shouldn't have any problems for the rest of the life of this machine, and no problems is a good thing. The rear axle counterweights are almost necessary for us. Once of the attachments we handle with this unit is a big brush cutter, and it allows handling them with ease. :cool2
Atco, good to here it's been a good machine for you. We're on our 3rd Bobcat, if you count the old 610 with the air cooled Wisconsin V-4, plus 2 763's. On our old one, I was going forward at a pretty good clip, hit pothole in the yard and somehow made the BICS think the seatbar became disengaged. I darn near bounced my head off the door of the cab. Does Bobcat offer a counterweight kit, or is your's an aftermarket type? I've never seen a Bobcat w/ counterweights, I've only seen them on the New Hollands I used to run at my old job. Perhaps a Interweb search is in order:beatsme
I'll ask the boss where he got the axle counterweights for our machine. They're nice to have for heavy attachments, like a backhoe unit. Yep, it's fun when that brake comes on. Another thing I think we've all done at least once is be driving and reach to the control panel above door to operate Power Bobtach while driving, and instead hit the parking brake switch! The bull will buck ya then! :yup
Never had to take one of these apart. Do you have a pic of the chains? Sounds like a stupid question but what makes them become loose, do they stretch?
Yep, they stretch over time as well as wear at every pin joint. A slight bit of wear at every pin joint with that many links is going to amount to some slack in the chains. And since Bobcat doesn't use adjusters, you get slack. I plan on taking some pics of everything during reassembly.
One thing about working in the chain case of Bobcats is there is no drain plug for the oil, just a fill level plug. If you have a small pump, it helps emptying the oil from chain case. You will find some metal debris in there from the brake plates as well as who knows where these metalic flakes come from! I had the machine on stands with it low on the front so oil would flow to the front of chain case. Washed the chain case first with diesel, then finished off with mineral spirits so it would evaporate and leave a nice clean chain case. To remove the diesel and mineral spirits, that's a perfect job for the "suck bucket". I've posted this before, but it's a good place to show the suck bucket again. Take a 5 gal bucket with lid. Put a hole in lid opposite pour spout. Make the hole so a piece of vinyl tubing fits snug in hole. Now you stick the hose of a shop vac over pour spout of bucket, and use vinyl tubing to suck up liquid or metal fragments. All the liquid and debris goes into the suck bucket, shop vac stays nice and dry. Got the chain case nice and clean using the suck bucket.
Posted by ATCOEQUIP: The 773 doesn't have a drain plug in the back, near the engine bay? On our 763, there's a removable skidplate under, and a little ahead of the engine, that you remove and gain access to the drain plug.
Yep, I saw the drain plug you mentioned in the back of the chain case. Didn't get to work on machine today, so I didn't check if there's a cover plate under machine to access drain plug. In our case, I simply used a small electric oil pump to transfer oil from chain case into 5 gal buckets. Finished clean up with suck bucket.
Cool thread ATCO,well done and informative.Love the "suck bucket" idea,I'l keep that in mind.
Well, just thought some Bobcat owners would like to see what's inside their machine 25c. The thing is, I was off on vacation last week, our truck driver (my occasional helper) took it apart. LoL, he's been sick with flu this week, so you know who gets to put it back together. :tong I'll take some more pics as I get components installed. And the suck bucket is handy for a number of tasks. I've used it to remove water from the bottom of fuel tanks that had stuck or no drain valves. Take a short piece of steel hyd tubing that is just the right size to fit vinyl tubing inside steel tubing. This gives the vinyl tubing some weight at the end and allows you to drop it to bottom of tank. Then as you apply vacuum to bucket, you just watch the water go through clear vinyl tubing until it changes to the color of fuel, and your shop vac is nice and dry inside. :yup
Got to do a little more work on it today. Reinstalled the motor carriers after rebuilding, new bearings and seals. Be sure and put chains in place before installing both carriers, you can see they ain't gonna fit between the shaft sprockets. Installed parking brake plates. You have to have a heavy snap ring plier with 90 degree tips. It's tight in there.
Then slide axle in housing with outer bearing installed on axle. Place inner bearing on axle splines, fit chain on sprocket, and fit sprocket on splined shaft of axle. Inner bearing slides easily on axle splines, but will encounter machined surface that bearing is press fit. At this point, you can install sprocket retainer bolt and washer, start tightening bolt with wrench to press inner bearing in place. Bad part is, a ratchet won't fit in here, it's wrench all the way. Got everything installed. Time to fit the outer axle seals. An old excavator pin bushing fit perfect for knocking tool. Pour the oil in one of the access cover holes until it reaches fill level plug on front of chain case. Lot easier to pour in holes than through that little hole up front. Now just install covers with new gaskets and finish things up.
very good pics I have just redone the axle bearings and seals on a 753...wish I had seen your excellent pics first...I enjoy your posts...Keep them coming...
Welcome to the forum Dufoman. :usa Sounds like you had a pretty good little project with your 753.
damm i which i would have seen this earlier we just spent all day trying to remove that plug that was rusted and striped this just made my day
Yep, that's enough to bang your head over. :Banghead Welcome to the forum trouble007. :usa
ya, i hope after this little problem my boss will get it through his head how important proper maintenance is this could probably been avoided if the plug had been opened every 250 hours like the manual suggests. o well, another lesson learned the hard way.
LoL, it's rare for a boss to get anything in his head about maintenance. This little Bobcat has to handle truckloads of attachments, hard for us to do without it, so we take care of it. With over 3,000 hrs, it still works great, engine is still in A-1 shape. But the chains were getting noisy from being stretched. When I took it apart, found a little wear on bearing cups. Well, we're in here, time to rebuild the drive system. She's ready for another 3,000 hrs. What part of Ontario you from? I work with a fellow origionally from Cambridge.
Now ATCO, we don't want to make generalizations....
Your right, point taken. :notworthy
Just pullin' your chain. If I had a $1 for every time I saw an owner run their machine into the ground, either knowingly or in a case of ignorance, I would have enough to buy something expensive.
I,m from oshawa Ontario (45 min east of Toronto) ya I'm the maintenance man/farm hand so my boss never really gives me time to do maintenance chorus our bobcat 753 f series has 4000 hours on it i think and has had a lot of issues including having to have the pump rebuilt. we are have an issue with the parking brake solenoid randomly popping on not very fun ointhead i think i will have 2 take a volt meter and check the resistance. also, anyone have an alternitive to buying the $75 parts manuals. we have 2 different skidsteers the 753 and a s250 and my boss wouldn't be into spending the $150. I know he's kinda cheap Thanks Ryan G
LoL...yep, I know, just practicing up on my modesty. You know, a guy from Tennessee telling a guy from Alabama they're right. Ahh, the TN - AL rivalry will live forever. Yep, your in farm country Ryan. :yup Yes sir, it's no fun when that parking brake locks while your driving. It's happened a couple times to ours, usually when the solenoid burns up. Ours has toasted a couple of solenoids, never have found a problem with the system, even sent it to Bobcat once, they couldn't find anything wrong with it. :beatsme. Don't know an alternative to buying parts manual. Bobcat's the only place I know to get parts info. I wish Bobcat would get with modern times and have parts lookups online like Deere and Case does. Worthless "billboard" information websites drive me crazy. :Banghead
agreed we get all are JD parts numbers online so when we go to the dealer it makes life easier for them but we still have them looking up the bobcat parts numbers and yep it hurts when the brakes lock any ideas as to my thread with the s250 fuel tank problem? Thanks Ryan
the exact figure for chain stretch is 3% limit. if you go to an MRO supplier you can get a chain stretch gauge. it is important to use the gauge properly so thoroughly read all instructions supplied with it. you need to use the portion of the gauge intended for roller chain, you must measure a loaded span of chain (no slack) and you need to know the pitch of the chain to measure it correctly. establish pitch of the chain by measuring from one pin center to the other on one outer link plate to establish pitch. measuring stretch will vary in technique from one gauge design to another, but you generally measure across a span of about a foot or more from one pin center to another and replace the chain when the second pin reaches the "no-go" mark on the gauge. after 3% wear the load carrying capacity of the chain drops dramatically and so will the drive side wear transferred to the drive sprockets from pin spread.
very good information i will have to check the chain wear on the drive train of the 753 when i open it up to put in new hydraulic oil might as well just to get the boss mad. the people that drive this bobcat drive it a little on the rough side so i wouldn't be surprised at what i find
I'm repairing a BC 763. How do you set the end play for the axle? I have a shop service manual, but I can't find where it has any tolerences for that. I've repaired/refurbished several dozers under 50HP but first time on a Bobcat. I thought maybe one would place the shim under outside tapered roller bearing? Just wondered how you do it.
Welcome to the forum country53. :usa Good question. I was looking for shims for bearing load when I disassembled the axles, wasn't a shim anywhere. Appearantly, Bobcat has the components machined so when you tighten the bolt that retains the sprockets on splined shafts, the sprocket presses the inner axle bearing cone in place. You tighten the sprocket retainer bolt until it's washer bottoms out on end of axle that bolt screws into. At that point, the load is proper on the bearings, the axles were just slightly snug to turn by hand, but not excessive.
Bobcat help I have a broken mount for the center piston for the bucket. Do they make repair parts for this mount?
ATCO Great thread. I did the same rebuild on my 743 last year. Bobcat has 3 different size washers for the end of the axel. They each have a different amount of play that they will take up on the bearings. I still cant figure out how Bobcat expects you to torque sprocket retainer bolt. I just used a wrench and a big cheater bar. Bobcat is also really proud of their tool kit for doing that job $800. I modified all the tools i needed for the job and saved alot.
I'm getting all sorts of issues with my 773. Sorry to jack this thread, but I can't start any new posts yet. Getting codes: 04-21, 05-21, 07-21, 08-21, 09-21, 11-06, 12-21. Any ideas? I have about 1500 hrs on it.
Hi JAZZY5. Sounds like you might have a 743 or 753 with the single bucket cylinder in the middle of the bucket. Those machines were really bad for cracks at the pin boss where bucket cylinder attaches to loader frame. Anyone who has one of these machines needs to watch for cracks and repair/re-inforce them before they get bad. I don't know if Bobcat offers repair parts to fix a broken one, you may have to repair the unit with new steel plates. I think I'd rather have the loader arms off the machine to do that. Yep, it's quite a project LBTCon. I can't figure out how Bobcat expects you to do anything to their machines. Painful little critters to work on. Bobcat is an appropriate name for them, by the time your done, your scratched and cut in numerous places. I looked closely for shim washers when I took this one apart, never saw one. But I did make sure to re-install axles from the tubes they came out of just in case there were something different about them. You can start a thread now bcat773t, and, welcome to the forum. :usa Don't know the codes on one, can't help you much with that. Maybe bobcatmechanic will show up here and help you out.
Thanks ATCOEQUIP
ATCO Hey I just signed up here after doing some research and I found this thread using a google search for how to adjust chain tension on my 773. I am posting this in a separate thread but I see you may have the knowledge to answer my question. I just bought a 2003 773g with around 900 hrs(supposedly) and I am in the process of rebuilding the running gear with new bearings, seals due to a very bad maintenance program by the previous owner. As far as I can tell the previous owner got some wire wrapped around the axle and it ripped the seal out letting about half of the oil out of the chaincase and then it proceeded to destroy the bearings so that is why I am replacing the bearings but now I have come to a standstill until I find out weather or not my drive chains are stretched beyond the limit ( this is were I hope you can help) I have put one side together and I noticed that the chains are so close to rubbing on the chaincase I can actually push down on the chains and they hit the bottom of the chain case making me think that they will really rub or slap the case when it is running. I can move the carrier shaft back and forth about a 1/4 to a 3/8 of an inch and it will tighten one chain or the other up but it also makes the opposite loose. The manual does not go into any detail on how to adjust or how to tell if your chains are wore and I cant believe at 900 hours that they would be that far stretched. Visually the chains look in great shape, sprockets look new, its just that I can push the chain down by hand and rub the bottom of the case that concerns me. When I put the carrier so that both chains are equal in slack I can pull up on the chains and get about an 1 3\4 slack. Any suggestions would be great you had a great wright up on this so I am hoping you can help. Thanks
Welcome to the forum jrrhotrod. :usa As for the stretch spec, didn't bother finding out myself. Our unit has over 3000 hrs on it, and it's still a daily used machine, the boss decided it was just time to go through the drives to keep it in good shape. I'm curious about what you said about the carrier shaft, that you can move it fore and aft and make one chain taught and the opposite loose. The bearings in the motor carrier shouldn't let that shaft move at all, have you got a problem with the carrier bearings? As for chain adjustment, Bobcat didn't make a provision for adjustment, the fabrication dimensions of the machine simply have proper length chains to be at proper tension. And you mentioned wire (uggh) wrapped around the axles tearing out seals, did it do any damage to axle housing so new seals won't fit proper? Wire wrapped around axles is recipie for #%&$ :Banghead. Hope you get everything sorted out. Keep us posted with the repairs, and do post some pics.
new chains arent going to break the bank, as atco suggested the carrier shaft is where you should be looking first but 900 hours of operation (i might question that number on a 2003 unit) with no lubrication is plenty of time to cause all kinds of havoc including stretched chains. price the chains out, they wont be that expensive as they are a regular MRO supply item.
Hey that was quick I will start with the carrier and how it mounts to the side of the chaincase there are oval slots in my caincase (hopefully not just mine) allowing the carrier to move forward and backward slightly but it travels no more than 3\8 of an inch if that it maybe more like a 1\8 inch of movement you can definetly tell the holes are stamped in a oval shape in the case I do not think it is wore like that(hope not).I replaced motor carrier bearings and seals while I was in there so carriers are good. Long story short the bad outer axle bearing disinigrated and once the cage broke it proceeded to allow excessive endplay and it destroyed the axle tube itself so I had to get good at my pipe welding skills and weld on a new axle tube about 3 inches in and also had to replace an axle. as near as I can tell there was something wrapped tightly around the axle as it scarred the tube pretty good and my guess was that it pulled the seal out . I will be detailing that in a post for others when I find out if my weld job is going to hold up( hope it will). Back to the chain, I do feel a little play in the rollers but not much and there is hardly any play in the pins or rivets pinning the links together. it is my inexperience with these machines that is probably making me wonder more than anything it seems that they put those sprokets so close to the bottom of the case that there isnt much room for the slack at all. any idea how close your chains were to the bottom of the case or how much slack you had it seems more like the rear is the closest to the bottom just cause it is longer and has a more gradual slope to the back.normally I would just go and buy new chains but man everything looks new sprockets chain pretty much everything but those worn out bearings I replaced. Maybe I can get a pic tomorrow and post for a decent visual of it. Thanks for your help
All I know is those sprockets/chains are very close to the bottom of the case, taught chains keep chains from rubbing bottom of case at bottom of sprocket. Those slotted holes? Hmm, I don't know. Just know ours didn't have slotted mounting holes for the mount bolts of the motor carrier. I'm kinda curious about that. Sounds like you had a nice project repairing the end of the axle housing. BTW, go ahead and make another post and you'll be upgraded to Junior Member and be able to start threads and post pics.
hi guys just an update here showed the chains to the bobcat dealer today and they said the same thing I was thinking that they still looked new but they didnt have any way of checking to see if maybe they were stretched. They said that they have seen chains that were abused to the point of failure and it didnt do much damage to the case as far as rubing and that you could actually hear them slapping around.the chains were about 150.00 a piece so I decided just to use what I got for now and If I get to much chain slapping I will just replace them then. I got both sides assembled tonight and the chains are not rubbing the case but they are close. As far as adjustment goes they say there is none needed but I asked the dealer and yes there is some small adjustment that can be made with those slots in the case but it is less than a 1/8 inch I did get some pics of the slots to better define what I have before I got everything assembled. that 1/8 inch movement did help my chain slack in the rear to were the chain wasnt dragging on the bottom. thanks for the replys and hopefully I will get my new status with this post so I can start my own thread
Well, your a Junior Member now. Bring on the pics.
Just a few pics here to show ya what I was talking about with the chains and the slots for the carrier hopefully this will give others a visual also. Those slots in the case allowed slight adjustment and it was just enough to keep the rear chains from dragging the case for most of you with new chains you'll probably wont have to worry about this. Got most of it put back together this weekend and all I have to do yet is change the hydraulic fluid (any pointers with getting the most fluid out of the system). I have drained the hyd tank down but that only got about 5.5 gallon out manual says 8.5 gallon in it so I would really like to get the most I can out. The history of my machine is a little unknown so I am giving it a thorough tuneup of sorts hopefully there wont be anymore gremlins . Thanks for the help guys
Looking good jrr. Looks like your parking brake plates are in good shape. Be sure and add your chain case oil in the front access hole before you install that cover, it's a lot easier to do it that way than trying to add it in that little hole up front. And yes, it's not easy to get all the hyd oil out of those machines, there's a lot of oil still in the pumps and components. Keep us posted how it all works out.
I think I would rather work on my Lulls that looks
LoL! Yep, Speedpup, I've always said...working on a Bobcat is like working down in a hole in an uncomfortable position, while sitting on the back of a Porcupine, everything in there poking and prodding at ya! :yup
I think you sugar coated it just a bit... :Banghead
LoL...yes, was being polite, it's my Southern manners. :angel (yeah, right) :lmao
Having worked on a few over the years I agree you were being polite! One of the things I like about my Gehl is you can tilt the cab and get at most things fairly easy. Bobcat finds a way to get it in there but they don't make it easy to get any repairs done. I often wonder why they don't make a slide out engine/pump assembly with a couple quick couplers and plugs so you could do service on them.
Great idea Bill, since basically the same machine we used to buy in the $30K's 15 years ago now goes in the $60K's, you would think they would have made the maintenance a little easier. I can change the batteries in my 420, D5 and 953 in the same amount of time it takes to change the one battery in my T250. :Banghead
Yep, I would rather work on ten Gehl or Case machines as one Bobcat. :yup And then...there's the time the battery tests ok, and the problem is the alternator crapped out! :Banghead
:lmao:lmao:Banghead:guns
Gentlemen, Forgive me for jumping into your thread - but you guys are hitting on exactly what I need to dive into. I have an old 741 Bobcat. I did some horse trading for the thing and ..........well, I've got a project on my hands. Like JRRHotRod, the previous users did really poor maintenance on this rig. Apparently the axle seals went out at some point allowing the chaincase oil to pour out. Apparently running the chains with no oil causes them to stretch - and then snap. Luckily for me, the older Bobcat models have less expensive chains than the newer ones. Really lucky for me was the guy on You Tube who took the time to show how to replace axle bearings, seals, etc. YouTube - Splined, resealed and degreasered ? Now all I need to do is jump into getting things done. Seeking guidance on axle bearings and seals. I want to do the job once and do it correctly. Should I use Bobcat branded parts or match up sizes and go with good name brands - just not Bobcat as they seem to be pretty expensive. I'm wondering if there are any recommendations for the bearings. Are there any tricks out there for replacing "stock" bearings with some heavy duty ones so I don't have to do this project again anytime soon? Like ever.
Welcome to the forum tttahoe1. :usa You can jump in here anytime, no worries. When you take your axle bearings out, they should have some number stamped on them by bearing mfg., the bearings won't be made by Bobcat. Get a quote from Bobcat for the bearings as well as from Bearing suppliers in your area. In our case, Bobcat wasn't that much more than bearing suppliers, so I decided to just get everything from one place and obtained parts from Bobcat. Interesting video, but, good grief man...drain the oil out of the chain case for pete's sake! No sense working in a mess. Besides, it's more than likely time to change the case oil anyway.
especially when he admits in the comments section that there was a 50/50% oil/water emulsion in the chaincase. why did he leave it in there? not really sure why he slid the outboard bearing on the axle shaft before sliding it into the tube, then removing the hub to install the seal... why didnt he just put the bearing into the outer race and throw the seal on, then slide the axle shaft in? also, i really really don't like how he has the back of the loader cribbed up. it's sitting on a jack, with a few blocks tossed under the mainframe in case it slips off... just crib it properly in the first place, thats a heavy machine. bobcat owners can save a fortune on repair expense by purchasing a service manual. they are not cheap but they show you how to do the job properly and are very easy to follow.
And he almost dropped the phone in the oil bath and said "this is why my wife doesn't like me using the phone..." I'm thinking "and the oil is in there...why?"
no oil drain pan in redneck tool arsenal
ATCO, appreciate the welcome. I will check the races and see what numbers I can come up with. Ultimately was wondering if there was a "top secret" double roller bearing setup that might cost twice as much and take twice as long to install but will last 10x the normal setup. I'd rather spend the money up front than ever do this job again. Just wishing. Man, you guys are brutal on the poor guy who did the video. Personally, I'd like to see Pamela Anderson showing the bearing change on a chromed out new machine with footage shot in a professional studio. I couldn't find a link to that video, so I'm just happy our poor guy "borrowed" his wife's video camera and shot that footage. I need all the help I can get.
i just dont want to see people duplicating those mistakes and either costing themselves more money, downtime, or a lost-time accident. it's nothing personal. be careful, work safe, and ask a professional if you don't know what youre doing. if you're having a hard time doing something, there's probably a better way and theres plenty of guys on here whove done the job before and have a solution to your problem.
Hey tttahoe I was able to save half of the dealers price on bearings by shopping locally but the biggest thing I found was that you really need to research the bearing make and find a set number and by that I mean that they sell the bearing as a set with the cone and the cup and you save a ton over buying them separately or in 2 pieces. You will need both numbers off of the cup and the cone to figure out a set # hopefully they are the same manufacture. We used timkens which is what mine had to begin with we went down to the local bearing shop and they gave a price of 11 bucks a set as the dealer was around 22 so the savings added up especially x8 I also bought carrier bearings at a great cost as well. I did by seals thru the dealer along with a heap of other parts so I didnt feel bad not buying the bearings from them. It may be easier to just to get them from the dealer as you will be guaranteed of getting the right bearings which should be a quality bearing. TIP: when you get your bearings make sure you pack them (with grease) before installing also need to make sure you have no endplay when you get the sprockets bolted on tight. bobcat mechanic asked if I locktited the sprocket bolts on I didnt and he said I should have you might want to I wish I would have but oh well. Ok and here is an update for all of you. of course got the chaincase back together (luckily no snags chains seemed good not to sloppy after adding the oil in the case) and then I fiddled around draining the hydraulic oil out so I could put some fresh bobcat fluid back in her of course I wanted to get the most fluid out of it as possible so I took alot of time cracking lines here and there to get the most I could out of it.I wound up getting about 8 gallons out with out ever running the motor. I believe the manual states it has a 8.5 gallon capacity so I figured i was pretty close given the amount that hit the floor that I didnt even count. So got it filled up with fluid and It was finally time to get the beast fired back up after two long months of work( no not continuous seemed like it thou) everything seemed good and the best part my axle tube fix didnt fail :drinkup I will do a wright here shortly on all of my work with plenty of PICS.
Sounds good jrrhotrod. Bring on the pics. :yup
When the bearings are good they will be tight, no shims needed from what i understand. Ken
I have 753 on pdf, nothing on the s250 yet ken
Just raise the boom and kill the engine, then lower the boom, this will empty the lift cylinders, then I pump the rest out through the front quick couplers and change the filter. Thats about all you can get unless you drain the tilt cyls, cooler, lines and you still can't get it all> Ken
jrrhotrod, thank you for the guidance. I'm with you, if I can save 50% off dealer x 8 - that will save me some cash that I don't have a lot of right now. Good luck with your machine.
trouble007 - Regarding the manuals. Check Ebay. Search Bobcat manuals. I just bought a DVD from a seller for ...........$15 ? plus shipping . Not sure if there will be one for the 763, but it's an option.
Pm me I have a manual link for you. Ken
thanks i actually went behind my bosses back and ordered the manuals for the s250 and 753 F series he was kinda pissed but its all blown over now. so if anyone needs a few pages from either of these parts manuals i would be happy to scan them for you
Hmm, reckon that explains why your screen name is "trouble". LoL I like you style trouble007.
There are pdf copies of the bobcat manuals available online to download free of charge at skidsteerforum Ken
why thank you atco sometimes my style gets me in trouble but usually i end up on top. at the end of the day i always get the job done right and in my eyes that's all that really matters
Need some tricks Gentlemen - the bolt on the right rear (as you're sitting/operating it) axle bolt that holds the drive sprocket on - does not want to come out. I called Bobcat to make sure that it was not reverse thread. They tell me it is not. I've got a good diesel guy helping me on this, and he's tried every trick he knows. We even tried getting a torch in there to heat the bolt head, but the case area is so tight - and you really can't see the darn bolt head - that we didn't get anywhere. My only other thought is to use tow/tie down chains to strap/wrap a very long pry bar (I am actually thinking of using a tube bumper I have) to the tire/wheel, then putting a wrench/socket on the bolt head, rotating everything until wrench makes contact with the case - and then applying force from there. Anyone have any better ideas? This is a 741 Series Bobcat. After reading your posts on how hard it is to work on Bobcats - and wasting a day on a single bolt because of access issues - don't hold it against me if I sell this thing and replace it with..........anything but a Bobcat. Thanks in advance for your help. Jim
That is what most people do. Hold the head and rotate the hub, drill a angle or whatever to span 2 studs and put as long a pipe as is handy on it. Tighten it the same, have no pity on the next guy who has to take it off.
I believe thats what I would do, make a hefty tool that would bolt onto the lugs of the wheel hub, put a wrench on the bolt, and put a long cheater pipe on the hub tool.
We generally do this with a box end on the bolt then use the drive of the bobcat to losen the bolt. Ken
Thank you Will do gentlemen. I appreciate the replies and guidance. I caught a few replies on earlier parts of this thread that other makes of skidsteers are easier to work on. Any opinions or guidance as to Case, Cat, Mustang, etc. would be greatly appreciated. I'm sure each has their positives and negatives. I'll put this one together correctly, use it for a couple of small jobs - then off to the selling block based upon this experience.
One last (for today), I'm still trying to figure out this "forum" format. Can I be lazy and ask where the service manuals might be located for a 741? Thank you, Jim.
http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=31fe914bdce0f590ab1eab3e9fa335ca2fe3e23dbbc2ef73 Courtesy of ssf Ken :canada
neat link skidsteer.ca.
Thank you guys!
Bobcat A300 I have a A300 model, my problem is it is stuck in low range, when I press the button for high range it does not engage, it has joysticks for controls and driving. It does show two codes a 12-22 and a 40-04, any help would be great!!
My first Purchase atcoequip.......Or anyone who knows I tried to post a new thread but dont have the rights. Was hoping to get some guidence. Purchased a new home. Owner has a 773 he is willing to sell me. but I dont know what to look for when buying a tractor. This is what i have found so far. It only has 780hrs on it. it is the non turbo model. Has options bucket controls on the sticks but they dont function? just the foot pedals? (he said it is an option on some)? He has only put about a 100hrs since he has had it (about 4 years) He has done 3 engine oil changes since, and 3 batteries and some other misc. maint. He informed me that there is a hyd. fluid leak (seems small) but he doesnt know where it is coming from. the only place you can see it is if you look under the bobcat, you can see where fluid has run down the bottom/middle of the tractor...runs from the front to the rear, and then the small amount of oil drips from the lowest point. (It is just enough oil to keep a wet spot on the skid plate. and a little on the ground) He thinks it is coming from the rear, but cant tell, the oil runs the full length of the skid plate. He said that the hydrolic fluid for the rams remain full, coolant is full. He thinks it could be coming from the chain case somewhere but looks to be coming from under the cab? Outer axles seals look good, all hyd. lines look good and dry on the out side. The whole unit looks very clean. Starts right up and runs good. Any insight as to what may be leaking or what it needs to fix? Being my first tractor, what should i be looking for to make sure i dont get into a maint. nightmare? Thanks... any help appriciated:usa
Welcome to the forum Gregrachelle. :usa It's really hard to say what could be leaking. Everything about the hydraulics of the machine is underneath the cab. Could be the control valve spools leaking, could be failed o-ring on o-ring boss fitting connection somewhere. You just about need to raise the cab and take a look around in there. For that matter, if your considering buying the machine, you should raise the cab anyway to see how it looks. Are you saying the owner said that the auxilliary hydraulics were an option that this unit doesn't have? I didn't even think Bobcat offered a 773 skid without aux hydraulics, much less as an option. Hmm, that's curious. Have you done a little research to see that the price he is asking is with the market prices of the machine? And how worn out are the handgrips on the drive levers? What condition is the seat in? If the handgrips are completely worn away and the seat is all cracked and busted, machine may have more that 780 hrs. Does it drive ok, doesn't make any loud noises when driving? Loader arms and bucket tilt work good. You should give it a good check out with a pile of dirt before you commit to buy it.
ATCOEQUIP. Thanks for the info. as for the aux hydrolics, I meant to say is has switches in the handles to tilt the bucket up and down but i guess it only works with the foot pedals, he made it sound as though it was an advanced option. this DOES infact have the aux hydros. Overall it looks very good. The paint even still looks good hand grips are nice, switches look good, seat looked fine. top of the roof is a little sun fadded. I have been looking on multipul equipment traders. so far i have found this model ranging from $9k to $14k. all have over 3000hrs on them. higher priced were some turbo models but over all there was only one ad that was under $11000. so it seems to be priced pretty good. ATCOEQUIP is hydrolics leaking pretty common for these units? and what are the normal or common problems and maint. items for this model? How hard is it to lift the cab? Any instruction on that would be appriciated.... Thanks for the reply
Hydraulic leaks pretty common? No more than any other hyd machine. On any machine; many hoses and connections, o-ring sealed connections, fitting connections, valve bodies with seals, any number of things can go bad at any time, that's what keeps us mechanics busy. I have even seen work equipment pumps crack on Bobcat machines, not so much on the 773 though. Once you raise the cab, it may be difficult to tell exactly where the leak is if a lot of oil is spread around. One place to look for sure is the loader control valve seals leaking, that's a common problem on any machine. That's the valve body the foot pedal links connect to. Raising the cab is easy. There's a 1/2" nut at the very front of the cab side panels, a nut on each side of machine. Take those nuts off, remove the square washer plate, and cab tilts right up. There's a cab locking plate to make sure cab doesn't come down on the cab gas spring. Pretty easy to do. Raise the cab and check it out. Sounds like you may have found a fairly nice unit that may just need a few simple repairs.
awesome! thanks again for the insight. I will see if i can get over there in the next couple days and take a look. Ill bring my camera and snap some photos if i see anything obvious. Wish me luck!
Take a 3/4" wrench with ya, better yet a 3/4" gearwrench if you have one, to take loose the cab nuts so you can raise the cab.
ok. lifted the cab. he also had a bobcat mechanic come out and write up a quote, he did say it was the loader control hydro something. If your sitting in the cab it would be under you to the right, and a lot of lines go to it. They quoted him $1200 to fix it. that includes towing it to there place and doing the work there... so it must not be too bad? i took a look and it seamed that it was wet more at the back of the pump, around some shinny silver cylinder, and it had a "E" clip or "C" clip on the end of it? any idea what that is or what might be the actual problem with it? or better yet.... what i need to do to fix it? (oh and i drove it and loaded it, and used all the functions and everything worked great!) thanks again!
back of the pump? you must be talking about the E clip on the back of the centering spool cap, on the loader control valve, my best guess anyway. If it's the loader control valve spool seals leaking, go ahead and have a qualified tech repair it. Those things are not easy to do for someone who has never worked on one. Bobcat dealers typically remove the valve body to repair it, from what I've heard. I don't do that. I re-seal it with the valve body still in machine, but it's not really an easy task. It sounds like you may have ran upon a nice machine that just needs some typical repairs.
Gentlemen, I believe it was ATCO Equipment that recommended greasing the axle bearings when installing new. I can't find the comment, but..........do you guys have a particular flavor of grease you'd use? I was going to pack the bearings with high pressure Red. I didn't know if there was a certain flavor that works best with the gearcase oil once the thing is running. Thanks, Jim
Hi Jim, Hi pressure red would work fine. Over time the chain case oil will get to the axle bearings, but greasing the bearings will give them needed lubrication until the oil migrates it's way to them.
Hey guys I have a leaking hub axle on the front left side on a S150, is it possible to change the axle seal by taking off the wheel hub only, without removing the axle? if I have to take out the axle to replace the seal, do I need to take off any sprockets in drive case to take out the axle? also do u need a puller of some sort? would appreciate any assistance thx frank
Leaking hub seal Hey guys I have a leaking hub axle on the front left side on a S150, is it possible to change the axle seal by taking off the wheel hub only, without removing the axle? if I have to take out the axle to replace the seal, do I need to take off any sprockets in drive case to take out the axle? also do u need a puller of some sort? would appreciate any assistance thx frank
Welcome to the forum mybmw. :usa Haven't worked on an S150, but I'd say it's probably like other Bobcats. I've changed axle seals without pulling axles, that is if the outer axle bearing isn't the problem. The axle shaft is tapered to accept the wheel hub. Loosen the hub retainer bolt so that you have about 1/8 inch gap between washer and hub. Get two small bottle jacks, position them between machine body and backside of hub on opposite sides of hub. Jack them out to put some outward pressure on the hub. Give the retainer bolt a sharp whack with a sledge and it should pop the hub loose. Drill some small holes in the metal can of the seal, insert some sheet metal screws in the holes and use prying tools to pry on heads of screws to pull seal out. A small slide hammer with a sheet metal screw attachment works as well.
Atcoequip, like to thank you for your reply, so there is a chance that the outer bearing is flogged out as well? are the hubs on a skidsteer like car hubs where the bearings pop out with the hub? would appreciate any further comments
It's just a possiblilty that your axle bearing has failed causing your oil leak, most common is oil seal fouled by debris. If you did have to replace axle bearing it would require removal of axle.
Hey Atco, to check if a axle bearing is crook can u still jack up the wheel & check if there is a lot of free play? is it obvious like on motor cars? or are these somewhat different? also to take out the axle u need to remove sprockets & chains etc in the crankcase is that correct? Thx again for your guidance, frank
If the bearing was completely trashed you'd notice wheel/axle movement. Once you pop the seal out, you'll get a good idea of what the bearing condition is like. If there's any bearing failure, you'll see metal fragments in there. If you do have to remove an axle, you don't necessarily have to remove the drive chain for that axle. You simple remove the sprocket retainer bolt for that axle and pop that axle out leaving chain and sprocket in place.
Atco I am going to pick your brain again, I read somewhere in this forum, that there is a bolt thats difficult to undo or is that the large bolt on the hub? can u use a torque wrench to undo? also do u need a puller to remove axle from housing? is there anything else that I need to be cautious about? thx frank
LoL, no worries mybmw. The bare knuckle fact about Bobcats are they are a PITA to work on, front to back, just my opinion. :tong If you have to remove an axle, go back to the beginning of this thread and check out the last pic in post #15. Those are the front drive sprockets. The sprockets and axles are splined, and when they are fitted together, the sprocket seats firmly against the end of the spline grooves of the axle shaft, kinda bottomed out if you will. So if you simply removed the sprocket retainer bolt, the sprocket is still firmly fitted on the axle shaft, almost like the tapered shaft connection you find at the axle hub. I simply break the axle retainer bolt loose, then get a piece of flat steel (or pieces of steel fitted together) to fill the gap between the opposing sprocket retainer bolts. Screw out the desired retainer bolt until it presses steel into opposing bolt. Get some good wrench pressure on it, and many times it will pop the axle/sprocket connection loose. If it's stubborn, with good pressure on the bolt, give the face of the sprocket a smack and she should pop loose. But let's hope you don't have to climb around inside there, uncomfortable little critters to work on they are.
Very informative thread. Thank you
Your welcome dogboneshd, I hope it provides some useful info for someone.
Hi, atco i have a 753 the oldest version and there appears to be oil lying in the right front wheel. It appears as though its coming from inside the Axel shaft would this be a blown seal? thanks Ryan
More than likely. :yup There is always a possiblity that it's bearing failure as well causing seal to leak. I can't remember if the old 753 had removable hubs on them. Does it have the large head bolt and washer in the center of the hub? BTW, I work with a salesman that's a crazy Canuck, origianally from Cambridge Ontario
holy cow that was fast thanks atco, it has one big bolt so does this mean that i dont have to pull the whole axle? just undo the one bolt then replace the seal. how would i be able to tell if the bearing is the problem should it be obvious? if one fails do they all follow? and as a proud Canadian i will say were not crazy just borderline insane and that's funny my boss grew-up in Cambridge. thanks Ryan
Oh man, great info. Next time I talk to member Burnout...I can tell him that I've been told by a reliable source that cacucks are borderline insane...as he is originally from the big O. If you have the big bolt in the center of the hub, I'm willing to bet you have removable hubs. The axle stub they mount on are a tapered shaft. Loosen the big bolt just enough to give it some clearance from the face of the hub. I then usually take two small bottle jacks, place them between the machine frame and outside perimiter of hub on opposite sides of the hub. Pump the jacks to give a little pressure on the backside of the hub, your not really trying to pump them to push the hub off, just a good amount of pressure. Then give the bolt head a good whack with a sledge. It will pop the hub lose from the tapered shaft. When you remove the hub, you'll see the seal. Drill small holes in the seal and insert sheet metal screws in the drilled holes. Use the screws to pry the seal out. If the bearing is bad, it's going to be obvious.
thanks for the info i will let you know how it turns out. and me reliable? far from it
Ok...so I won't give Burnout that little detail. :lmao
Leaking Fuel Tank Bobcat S175 Hi everyone, Atco wondering if I can pick your brain again any advice will be greatly appreciated, I noticed a diesel leak at the very rear & right hand side of the fuel tank, on a S175 Bobcat, cant see where in there exactly as there is no access but I am guessing it is about halfway up on the tank as it only leaks when tank is half full or more, & when driving up the ramps to load the machine onto truck, I am tempted to leave it however whenever I wash the machine a lot of water seems to find its way into the fuel I mean a hell of a lot like a gallon or 2, I know the best way to do it is to replace the tank however the engine & pumps have to come out to gain access to replace the tank the local dealer estimates it will cost somewhere between $2000-$2500 to replace the tank, cost of a new tank is only $250, the rest of the cost is labour, is there another way I could skirt some kinda epoxy or glue or somethin in there that would stick to the tank & seal this leak or another way of fixin it? thx frank
Welcome to the forum mybmw. :usa This, aside from being difficult to work on, is probably the biggest complaint I have about Bobcat skids or CTL's...the fuel tank under the engine and pump assembly. I'd love to try repairing one that has a leak, but so far I haven't had one in a good repairable condition. Things I have seen; muddy water getting under tank, water dries and leaves dirt, continuing repeating this causes dirt to make tank raise and start rubbing bottom of oil pan rubbing a hole in it. Also seen small stones get lodged in crack between tank and frame, vibration causes stone to rub hole in tank. Have also seen pressure hoses in area of pump and control valve rubbing tank and over time movement of hose causes nice long groove in tank. I have yet to find anything that will stick to that slippery plastic tank, may be something out there, I'm just not aware of it, maybe someone knows of an epoxy or something that will stick to plastics like HDPE. Your kinda hung out to dry until you can locate the source of your leak, which is not always easy to do on these machines. Be sure and check the rubber grommets where the fuel pickup and fuel return fittings are on top of tank. Also check where the fuel gauge is mounted in top of tank. If you can't find it and fix it, you have no other choice than pull the engine and pumps. I hope you get it sorted out mate.
Very nice and helful info....Thank you for the details and great pictures.
Thanks for the information
i am looking for some information on bobcat 753F, I am needing to get a manual for my 753F
I have a Bobcat 773 and I need to replace the gas tank on it since it has a lot of dirt in it. Do I need to remove the motor to do that? If so how many hours do you think it would take to remove the motor, replace the gas tank and put the motor back? Thanks!
I'm pretty sure my 773 fuel tank has a drain. (But I ain't absolutely positive. . .) Here in Tennessee, we wouldn't take the tank off just to get the dirt--if I needed dirt, I'd get one of my excavating buddies to haul me a load; hit just ain't all that hard to find around here. Quick, before he pipes up and toots his own horn, look for the "suck-bucket" thread by. . . I don't remember his HEF name. ("Suck bucket, suck bucket"; no matter what the problem, he says "suck bucket". That make me sick. :notworthy Just like my Mom when I was a kid and wanted to stay home from school--no matter what was wrong, she said, "I think you need an enima." ) :notworthy
If anyone of you forum gurus can direct me to a more appropriate place I would be most grateful. This is a pretty smart bunch of Bobcat people. I am running a 2001 963G. I don't have a fuel leak but I get chatter when I lower the arms -not raising them. Bobcat suggested a problem with the breather cap on the hydraulic tank. Can anyone tell me where that is. Hope this isn't too dumb a question. Also, I have just a small amount of leakage in the LR hub but not loose movement. Am I safe for a while or do I have to change that seal? Thank you
found the breather cap but still have chatter An addendum to the above post- I found the breather cap. It was buried down low behind the hydraulic filter (had to go in by raising the operator station. But still experiencing a lot of chatter as I lower the 963's arms. Today a mechanic suggested checking to see if the arms are misshapen in some way, throwing off the balance.
Are four wheels seals are leaking on my 863G. How difficult to replace just the seals?
Also, does it mean I need new wheel bearings on my 863G as I can move the wheel in and out about 1/16 of an inch. Since I need to replace he wheels, seals, is it that difficult to replace the bearings at that time?
Welcome to the forum Kloppy. :usa If your machine has the large bolt in the center of the wheel hubs, then the hub can be removed and shaft seals can be replaced without disassembly of axles. There really shouldn't be any in/out movement of the the axles as they used opposing tapered roller bearings on those shafts. 1/16" movement isn't much, maybe not even excessive, if that is in fact the limit of movement. But it wouldn't hurt to remove the cover of the front chain case and check the tightness of the sprocket bolts on the front axles.
Bobcat 753 G'day to Atco and other members. I have read this thread (and others) with some interest and find myself now needing to ask a question. I have had to dismantle the cover plates off the chain case on the 753 C series. I have got the back one off and the front one off. Six of the bolt heads were broken off??? I think the metal is .... . I am replacing the bolts with high tensile with hardened washers and spring washers and will silicone either side of a new gasket I will cut from oil resistant gasket material??? Any hints/experiences? Advice please??? I am still to remove the middle plate which holds the solenoid for the braking mechanism - what tricks do I need to know to remove this plate most easily? Does the solenoid attach to an inside device so that it cant be removed by itself? The reason I ask is that I dont want to chase things down the chaincase? Can it simple be removed by removing the bolts that attach it? What else needs removing. The reason I am doing this is because the gaskets (besides the bolt heads missing) have gone somewhat brittle and water has ingressed into the chain case oil. Should I despatch it or on taking it out let it stand and gather the oil after separation for later use??? Supposed to have been changed about 100hrs ago but they obviously did not look at the gaskets??? I did not think it wise not to do all three gaskets at the same time since I am pulling it apart to do that but the middle plate looks a little tricky??? Thanks for any input, Regards, MX45. MX45 Mitsubishi Grey Market Excavator Massey 3090 110HP 4WD Tractor Case CS75HP 4WD Tractor Bobcat 753 4WD Manlift
Cheers MX45. :usa The original chain case cover gaskets were made from a dense, thick foam material, about a 1/2" thick. Pre-cut and holes pre-punched. This thick gasket compressed when you tightened bolts which formed the gasket and filled voids in steel, especially in the center of chain case where the steel halves meet, there's a depression there. I always add a dab of RTV in that depression. I suppose you could cut your own gaskets from some form of gasket material, no harm in doing so. Not sure I would apply silicone (RTV) to the gaskets, only for the reason of future removal, it's hard enough to get in there and work with those plates, be even more difficult if plates were glued to chain case housing. I think on the newer Bobcats they have done away with the gaskets and are using RTV, haven't worked on one yet, not sure I'm looking forward to prying one of those plates off and cleaning up the mess. The trick to the middle plate is stuff in the way above it. It's a little trouble, but the best way to deal with that plate is to remove that cab panel that has the drive levers mounted to it. The panel just behind your feet with the fuse panel in it. If you remove that panel, it really opens things up to get in there and work. As for the parking brake solenoid, my memory is a little vague on that one, have no idea why, maybe age, LoL. But I don't think it's a problem removing the mounting bolts of the solenoid and removing it.
Thanks - some other Questions? I searched around for substitute material as the Bobcat material is porous and takes up oil allowing it out and moisture - allowing it in - besides the broken bolts etc. Two materials I can obtain are neoprene - 6mm thick and nitrile - 3mm thick. Neither are porous. The silicone for auto purposes seems to come away OK in other uses so that does not worry me. Thanks for the heads up on the panel in front of the middle cover - I did not notice. Any feedback on using neoprene or nitrile as a gasket material??? I know neoprene will not survive fuel but is generally a long lasting material. The Bobcat material looks like ........ so loath to put it back in. No hurry to repair but once done have to dig and fill a 20 metre septic trench. Carting river gravel for the pit and cover over the plastic channel and then etc etc. The one from the sixties gave up recently!!! Thanks again, I will let you know the process as I go along and what I find when I drain the oil. Waiting to do that so it can catch any stuff that fall in so I can take it all out together. Regards.
bobcat only does rtv now for the chain case plates. they dont even offer the gaskets now
Yep, that's what I've heard. Welcome to the forum hiniker88. :usa
Yep working for a bobcat dealer keeps me pretty busy. Thank you sir
Gasket Material? G'day Atco and Mr Bocat, I went and bought some 3mm teflon matt today to cut the gaskets from. The advice from the forum here seems to be to just use the silicone??? I dont know what is best but thought since some 6 bolt heads were snapped there might be some 'flexing' going on with the case and so thought a gasket with some flex/thickness might be better??? What do you think - easy enough to just put the Silicone and use the teflon on something else another time??? Still have not removed the centre plate - time poor!!! Regards, Thanks, MX45.
You are going to remove the snapped bolts and replace them I assume?
Yes - already out with back pain and clamping pliers - some easy some hard. Replaced with HT blts. Hardened washers and spring washers to boot! RTV or gasket plus RTV?????
Well after stops and starts got the chain case clean - doubt that had been done for a while if ever - lots of gunk but no metal fragments identifiable. Took easily 30 litres of oil - 753 C series - and some more to get it up to the drain plug level. I did not remove the middle plate in the end as all the bolts there were sound and tight and there did not appear the oil leaks as elsewhere and I can do that independantly if it turns out it needs to be done. However was concerned about erratic steering and saw the other thread on creeping. So I have managed to get that steering plate off at the back and there is noticeable wear on the cams and flat plates and the bolts that hold the flat steering connnector arms to the alloy steering blocks were both loose. I will start on all that in a few days. It did go crazy at times so I guess that is the problem with everything being so out of whack. Thanks for this thread on the chain case and the other thread on the creeping. MX45
Sounds like you're getting things sorted out MX45. If you have wear on those centering spools and bars, you will get slack in the centering device that will make a Bobcat dance all over. In most cases you can flip the spools and bars around and get some more life out of them. But the best fix is to replace solid spools with cam follower bearings. In either case, if you tidy things up on the centering plate, life will be much more pleasant with your Bobcat.
G'day Atco, Well the nut for the spring loader on the centre plate was rusted on - so yes much hot air later had it off. The spools are the early hard wearing type and had noticeable wear and the bars also had noticeable wear so reversed all of the above. The biggest thing though I think was the rubber bushing had been lost on one side of all the bushes and the adjusting levers were very different making allowance I think for the bigger failed bushes on the RHS. So re-bushed, reversed and put back together - took three plastic ties as two snapped. Also put a washer over the plastic spring holder where the bolt holds the spring end - seemed to me it needed it as the bolt head chewed into the plastic? All tidied up - used a straight edge to line up the alloy steering heads and adjusted to what I think is neutral. I will jack it up tomorrow if time allows and see how my patience goes adjusting it to get neutral on both sides. With the centering levers out about an inch (different adjustment from one side to the other) before re-bushing I expect that mount of slop would cause some pretty inaccurate movements from the hydraulic drive on the RHS. Anyway the steering returns to neutral (by look and feel and chalk line I made prior to reassembling) and if it goes as well as it feels then that would be a big improvement. Question - I have a loud squeal when I start the Bobcat - sounds lilke belt squeal but there are several - any one of them the usual culprit??? Thanks again - I cant imagine trying to put the spring in without the cable ties - compressed it in a vice to get them on - so great idea, Regards, MX45.
If the nut that's on the bolt for the spring loader was rusted and stuck, I bet you had a helluva cuss fest with that, darn thing ain't all that easy to get to and wrestle with. But it sounds like your more than capable of doing the repairs under the cab of that thing, and I'm certain you experienced the typical joy that comes with working on top of one of those uncomfortable porcupines. A belt squeal at start up is typically alternator belt on crank pulley end of engine as alternator starts putting out a charge at start up. Drive belt and fan belt can squeal as well, but what you will typically feel when drive belt tension gets weak is loss of drive power when pushing a load. If the fan belt is source of squeal, it's typically a problem with the belt tensioner. That tensioner only puts a light tension pressure on the belt. When the pivot bushing of the tensioner gets worn, tensioner will lean to one side, pulley becomes little out of alignment with path direction of belt, and tensioner doesn't pivot free and smooth. Visual inspection of tensioner is typically sufficient to determine its condition. If the pulley looks square and parallel with belt path, it's likely still in good order. If the pulley looks out of alignment with belt path, probably time to overhaul tensioner. BTW, on that 753C, keep an eye on that pin boss where bucket tilt cylinder attaches to loader frame in the center of front frame. Those machines were bad about getting cracks in the weld of pin boss where it's welded to frame.
Thanks again for the info. When I started it I had slight reverse in both sides. Adjusted the LHS first and got it where it would do a little forward or a little reverse with a small movement of the drive lever. Then the RHS which adjusted pretty much the same. I will have another look at that once I have driven for a few hours and the new bits wear any surface in a little if need be. Eventually figured out how to get the alternator belt off with some other things having to come off first. Alternator belt is shot - bits missing and cracked pretty much everywhere. And there was this hose hanging in the middle of the belt area???? Turns out while I have been checking the overflow tank for the radiator and the coolant was great and did not drop the connecting hose has been cut - so checked the coolant in the radiator and gone South! So another question - where is the block drain plug? Does it have one - it is the Kubota motor. I can see the radiator inflow and outlflow and where each connects to the motor but would rather flush it and drain from the block???? Tried to upload some pictures but says I have to re-size them and I dont know how, Block Drain Plug? Regards.
Here's a rather easy to operate pic program, and free. http://download.cnet.com/Free-Picture-Resize-Starter/3000-12511_4-10297789.html resize pic to something like 640 x 480 and they should download fine to forum. I'm thinking that vintage Kubota had a block coolant drain petcock just below the fuel injection pump. Don't have a pic of that to show ya though.
Sorry, not allowed to start a new thread. Is there any alternative to the expensive hydraulic fluid from bobcat? I don't want to change it at the risk of repairs without knowing first. I have a 773g. Can you run one oil for everything? ( chain case, motor, and hydraulics). Thanks for the help.
If you look below the injection pump there should be a petcock. That will drain the coolant
Thanks for the quick response Atco - directly below the injector pump and would have been good if I had stood to the side a little more - but got most of it in the bucket - no rust etc so lucky and radiator was nearly full so OK there. So tomorrow will get radiator flush, new alternator belt and new overflow line for the reservoir. Thanks to Hinker as well. I hope there are not more gremlins to fix right at the moment! I will try to get photographs re sized when I get five minutes. Off the subject - I have a starter motor problem but since it is general I thought I would ask - starter engages only sometimes - unpredictable, knocking the starter motor may help or may not - drive motor starts fine if clutch starting tractor or if the starter kicks in and gets some momentum. The engaging solenoid was re-conditioned when this problem started and seemed to help but problem has slowly got worse until now it is a real nuisance being stuck somewhere not so nice and not knowing if the starter will work. Any general ideas - it is a Lucas on a Massey Ferguson 3090 tractor - does it have brushes??? Sorry if in the wrong place but thought any starter behaving this way may have a commone cause??? The cab fan only dies a littlw when the starter does not start - it seems the solenoid is getting power maybe??? Sometimes the starter will kick well other times it will kick and the solenoid will click a lot and other times not for may many tries with the key??? Thanks ahead for any input, Regards.
I have been using typical AW32 or AW46 (if you're in warm climate) for years with no issue. There's nothing unusual about bobcat hyd components, such as pumps and motors, nothing different than any other hyd system throughout the construction equipment industry. A starter that only works "half the time" is annoying. Lucas starters can be very problematic when they get some age to them. Brushes get a little worn and they drag very heavily when cranking, pull a lot of amps. You have to start with the basics, make sure battery is good, make sure connections at battery as well as positive connection to starter and ground (earth) connection to frame is good. If all is well there, connect a volt meter (analog meter works best for this, but digital will work) to the start switch terminal of solenoid on starter. Keep in mind when you do this, machines have artificial intelligence. No, I'm not crazy. That thing knows you're tinkering with it and will probably crank flawlessly now, so don't be surprised. Hit the key switch to crank engine and monitor voltage reading on meter. If it fails to crank and you have, say 10 to 12 volt on meter, problem is likely starter motor or faulty solenoid. If you only get maybe 6 to 9 volt on meter, you're not getting enough voltage on start wire to fully engage start solenoid on starter.
Thanks willie59. Live in SC, gets cold but not below 0. The last time i bought fluid it was $38 for 2.5 gallons, not to mention the 45 minute drive to the dealer. I've learned a lot from reading your older replies to other problems. Thanks again for all the great info.
Glad to help as best I can 2frankh.
Photos - G'day Will/Atco, Got some time to do that resize thing so seems to have attached so here goes. You can see the looseness of the supposedly bushed end and the wear on the cam followers and the reversed cam followers and the condition of the alternator belt. All put back in and naturally the Bobcat is a lot tighter in response now and I can appreciate the difference only having driven it with the loose stuff not knowing any better. Also from info on this site about dirt causing holes in fuel tanks I also removed half of the outback from the bottom of the engine bay - so probably have avoided future problems. If you want I will later post some pics of the septic trench I will now dig and re-establish with the kitty cat and the MX45? Your help has saved lots of time and made for a job better done than otherwise - also the starter motor - started lots more often with the threat of tearing it apart. Anyway then still played up some so I have clamped the feed wire to the solenoid a little tighter as when I put power direct to it the starter worked every time - so far! I also put some inox on the clutch isolator switch just in case. will let you know how that goes. Can you give me a quick lesson on how to find the brushes etc that can be serviced as I would like to be certain about that and the starter looks easy enough to get to even if heavy! Regards, MX45.
Yep, that old alternator belt was beginning to look a bit crunchy. When those torsion bushing get loose like that, it will affect the feel in the drive lever. If you have fitted new torsion bushing in pintle arm, make sure the pintle arm is as close to neutral position as you can get it before tightening bolt/nut that secures pintle arm to link bar from drive lever. I know, that's hard to judge pintle arm neutral because you have the centering plate removed. But if you have pintle arm forward or backward from neutral and lock down that bolt, it will have an adverse affect on lever going back to neutral once everything is fitted. As for the Lucas starter, I always take them to a local starter shop so I don't really have a source for the brushes. But I wouldn't think you'd have trouble finding them as those Lucas starters were very common. Only thing that might be a trick would be determining which exact model the starter is to order parts. Then again, may be no problem at all, don't really know since I always leave that to someone else.
Atco, Ive got to sell your post again, but I know you are Mr Bobcat. I guess I didnt learn from the purchase of the last Bobcat with a problem, I just sold it and bought a Bobcat 753, it has been sitting up under the shed for about a year. Owner says the problem they had was it wouldnt track straight (which it doesnt) but after we got it started the boom didnt want to go up and down and the bucket wouldnt curl. I messed with it and finally got the bucket to lift, but it doesnt work great, it seem it will only lift or lower if the pedal is in a special position (not full up or full down) The bucket still doesnt want to work good, I took one of the lines off and the bucket will curl, its like the return line isnt letting the oil return. At times I hear a beeping noise, like a alarm, the light panel (upper right, doesnt work) I have no idea what year model it is, but its not beat up Im wondering if the selonoids on the valve pack is operating correctly Thanks for any comment
Glutton for punishment ain't ya Willis. The green LED light for lift/tilt lock is not lit up? Have you depressed and held in the work lamp button to see if it has any codes?
Well it depends what series it is. If its older you wont be able to check for codes with the headlight button
That's true, I don't think the old F series had that feature.
Yep it sure makes things quicker if you just need to check codes real fast
I just got it Monday I will try to get a serial number off it tomorrow if it matters, the bucket has only one cylinder Kubota, water cooled engine valve body has two solenoids on top of it, there is a spare plug that will fit a solenoid, but I dont see one to plug it in Forgot something, not sure if it matters, but the fuel electric shutoff didnt work, when we first was trying to start it, I dont know what they done to get it working 10x16.5 tires
Atco, I guess Im going to borrow your thread again. I have a skidsteer, that someone left the nuts loose and it wore the rim bad. Im thinking I saw somewhere about repairing these rims. It was about 3-4 yeas ago and I read it somewhere, or maybe dreamed it. I want to say, it was a beveled washer like deal and you weld it to the bad rim Maybe I dreamed it and I should get a patent for it
Well, if it was a dream, damn good one. Sounds like a good idea to me.
HI there, I need ur help guys, I have bobcat 773, and i cant find Seals... http://www.3image.com/tMa http://www.3image.com/tZ4 http://www.3image.com/tZB http://www.3image.com/tZN http://www.3image.com/tZR I From georgia Republic, so in my country i cant find them, i hope u will help me... I need to buy it, please tell me Web site or Correct Part number... I will be grateful if u help me...
Welcome to the Forums ochxa91!:drinkup We have a lot of knowledgable Bobcat guys here on the Forums, somebody will have the answer to your question.
Welcome to HEF ochxa91. :usa crewchief888 or Bobcatdan would be the ones who could best provide you with part numbers. Looks like you working on a drive motor. I can't say for certain, but some of those seals may only be available from Bobcat. The only other source I could recommend is Loader Parts Source. I attempted to add a link to their website but it seems their server is down at the moment I'm posting. :beatsme
ty guys, i search them at Loader Parts Source, but didnt found them... i dont know part number, and Loader Parts Source dosent have parts Pictures, i Want to know part number of those Seals... or please post a link, where i can order them.
Seal Kit Bobcat #6685070
1 6682034 1 MOTOR Ref. 2-27 2 6689697 1 HOUSING, MOTOR W/Ref. 3-7 - Was 6685063 3 6668079 1 PLUG, MOTOR W/Ref. 4 4 79K5 1 O RING 10 5 6668080 x SHIM 6 6688521 1 SPRING 7 6668082 1 POPPET Was 6685064 8 6685065 2 SHUTTLE 9 6513533 2 SPRING 10 6513532 2 POPPET 11 6668088 1 PISTON shuttle - W/flat - fast acting - Was 6685066 12 6668089 1 PLUG, MOTOR W/Ref. 13 13 79K6 1 O RING 10 14 6669452 1 O-RING 15 6678000 4 SEAL 16 6689698 1 PLATE valve - Was 6678001 17 6691343 1 GEROLER Was 6685067 18 6651542 2 BALL, STEEL 19 6682862 1 SHAFT, DRIVE 20 6689700 1 PLATE balance - outer - Was 6678003 21 6678006 1 RING, BACK-UP 22 6682860 1 O-RING 23 6682897 1 SEAL 24 6685069 1 RING,BACK-UP backup 25 6685068 1 FLANGE mounting 26 6664815 1 SEAL, OIL 27 6682863 9 BOLT 28 6678004 1 PLATE balance - inner 29 6685070 1 KIT, SEAL COMPLETE W/Ref. 4, 13-15, 21-23 & 26
Sorry it is hard for me to tell which drive motor you have. I have another example. Hold please
1 MOTOR See BTI367 NAP - Ref. 2-27 - Was 6671617 2 1 HOUSING NAP - W/Ref. 3-7 - Was 6669442 3 6668079 1 PLUG, MOTOR W/Ref. 4 4 79K5 1 O RING 10 5 6668080 x SHIM 6 6669444 1 SPRING 7 6668082 1 POPPET 8 6561218 2 SHUTTLE 9 6513533 2 SPRING 10 6513532 2 POPPET 11 6668088 1 PISTON shuttle - round 11 6668088 1 PISTON shuttle - W/flat - fast acting - Was 6685066 12 6668089 1 PLUG, MOTOR W/Ref. 13 13 79K6 1 O RING 10 14 6669452 1 O-RING 15 6669446 4 O-RING 16 6669447 1 PLATE valve 17 1 GEROLER NAP - Was 6672126 18 6651542 2 BALL, STEEL 19 6669469 1 SHAFT 20 6669448 1 PLATE balance 21 6669450 1 RING backup 22 6669449 1 O-RING 23 6669453 1 SEAL 24 6669454 1 RING backup 25 6669451 1 FLANGE mounting 26 6664815 1 SEAL, OIL 27 6669470 9 BOLT 28 6669455 1 KIT, SEAL W/Ref. 13-15, 21-24 & 26
Ty man, which is this one? http://www.3image.com/tZ4 I think those seals is Number 29 part number 6685070.... or there are all seals ? https://www.patodonnell.com/Shoppin...duct/1385/ProductCategory/101792/Default.aspx I found this, i think its http://www.3image.com/tMa selas.... Sorry for bad English
I just finished doing that job on a friends 773, it's no fun but I'm sure you can do it if you follow the instructions on this site with full photos and description as to the procedures needed. search this -- Replacing Bobcat loader control valve seals I would not have tackled the job if I had not read and followed this link.
That looks like the seal that seals the input shaft to the final drive bearing housing. I don't know what the part number is, but it's not shown on the diagrams that NCPipeline posted, have to go to a different page for that seal.
1 6722907 1 KIT Ref. 2-5 2 6658228 1 SEAL, OIL 3 6662306 1 RING 4 6987915 1 THREADLOCKER 271 - HEAVY DUTY RED - 0.5ML AMPULE NSS Was 6598485 5 6722908 1 INSTRUCTIONS
Willie ^^^ this says "axle seal kit" ^^^
Complete axle diagram 1 18C1224 1 BOLT 1.50''(38,1 mm) long 1 6679247 1 BOLT plated - 1.75'' (44,5 mm) long 2 6552871 1 WASHER 3 7134137 1 SPROCKET Was 6577204 4 6689775 2 BEARING, AXLE Was 6519925 5 6689638 2 CUP, BEARING Was 6634609 6 6658228 1 SEAL, OIL 7 1 AXLE NAP - W/ .75'' dia. x 1.25'' deep full threaded end - Use W/Ref. 1 ( 18C-1224 bolt) - Was 6706427 7 6706427 1 AXLE W/ .75'' dia. x 1.50'' deep full threaded end - Use W/Ref. 1 (6679247 bolt) 8 6709170 8 BOLT, WHEEL Was 6559502 9 18C1636 1 BOLT 2.25''(57,2 mm) long 10 6716843 1 WASHER recessed 11 6578689 1 HUB W/Ref. 8 12 6J1664 1 KEY 13 6563606 1 WASHER recessed - Used to take up .005 or .010 end play on axle 14 6564669 8 NUT, 10 wheel 15 6662306 1 RING wear - service part only 15 6722907 4 KIT See Illustration AXLE SEAL KIT/ B4041 - axle seal & wear sleeve 16 1 O-RING NSS - if equipped - for production use only
NCPIPELINE Willie ty u so much guys... [/B]
how you draw the chain?
Hi all, Have just read through all of these posts. I've got a S130 Bobcat. I'm in the process of putting one of my front axles back together, all in place now inc chain drive sprocket back onto shaft, bearings are seated in but haven't tightened up retainer bolt onto sprocket/shaft yet. Was wanting to know is there any way you can set the preload on the bearings with all the chain drive already on or does it just so up tight on the shoulder of the shaft & have a set preload set by clearances etc. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Marcus
Welcome to HEF MBO. :drinkup It's been a while since I've done one of these, but I don't think there's a preload adjustment on the axle bearings. As you tighten that big sprocket retainer bolt and washer on the axle that presses the sprocket on the shaft. At the point the washer bottoms out on the shaft the sprocket is pressed as far as it goes and the bearings are set. I'm not aware of any spacer shims that go between the sprocket and the bearing, and the manual doesn't mention any.
Take a 5 gal bucket with lid. Put a hole in lid opposite pour spout. Make the hole so a piece of vinyl tubing fits snug in hole. Now you stick the hose of a shop vac over pour spout of bucket, and use vinyl tubing to suck up liquid or metal fragments. All the liquid and debris goes into the suck bucket, shop vac stays nice and dry. Got the chain case nice and clean using the suck bucket. That's slick as all get out! Purciate that little piece of gold you just tossed out there!
NCPIPELINE - are you still here? I have a question about the diagram you posted march 20,2013 - I have a bobcat 743- I only found one spring in my relief valve. Are there supposed to be two?!?