my parents are going to have to replace their septic tank soon and i am going to do the excavation what size hoe will lift the old tank out of the hole and unload the new tank off the truck and set it in the hole without problems? i may have to re do the leach feild as well but we don't know yet
Well - you have a few considerations...What is the width for your fields?For example, we need to be 2 feet wide in some places and 3 feet wide in others near me. What size is your old tank? A 1000 gallon heavy duty weighs almost 12,000 pounds. Then you have to dig around it and affix the sling.... As for tank setting, usually in an accesible area, the tank comes on a boom truck ready to drop into your PERFECTLY PREPARED hole. A 200 (or Cat 320) is always a good compromise.
Hi coolcatman1, Any chance you could pump out the old tank and backfill it and leave the old tank in place.
A 200 size machine is the answer to your question. But... is it possible to pump out and crush the old tank on site? This can be done with a rubber tire backhoe , then have the tank co. set the new one in hole with there crane truck. You may get by with a 120 size machine if your old and the new tank coming are a two piece tank. You could use a mini excavator if your old tank can be pumped and filled with sand then dig a new hole close by and order a plastic tank. Just some options. Good luck , doug
Might pay to get a professional in, remember lifting a septic out of the ground is going to tougher than you think. Even though it may weigh X amount, the suction effect is going to increase that. Then you have to consider that an ex will lift a fair bit in close and down low but once the load is raised, swung away or rotated, things will not be same. Have you any experience in sort of thing? And remember to make sure that nobody is near the tank when it is lifted.
BEST REPLY HERE!!!! there are laws in place and license's that are needed here in the states for stuff like this Pj
sorry, I shouldnt have been such an A-hole on the last post, but to answer the Q' you can dig a entire septic system with a shovel if thats all you have and you have enough time, if your asking a Q' like this it kinda makes me wonder Pj
Hendrik is right.... Get a pro. I install systems on a regular basis......Here's what I would do. Get tank pumped then lift lid off and fill tank with sand, plumb straight through the tank (you may have to break out part off the baffle to do this). Put lid back on. Now install new tank... Tank problem solved! Dont use a plastic tank, just asking for problems. Might be a good idea to check with your local Sanitarian to see if you can do this without proper licensing. Most areas require it....Or, hire a pro.
I do tanks quite often with a Cat 420D backhoe. I demo the tank in the original hole then remove it and haul it off. Then regrade the hole and stabilize the bottom with 3/4 crush. We had a Cat 314 mini-ex that was real nice to use for tanks and new lines. (It had the split boom) Ive also done them with a Cat 304 mini-ex and a Cat 287 track skid steer because of the lack of room. Had to demo the concrete tank and replace it with a plastic because the tank truck had no way possible to get even close.... But like the rest said watch yourself on permits, etc. I know your probably trying to save them money but it can end up biting them in the azz. good luck!
If you must lift out the old one and set the new one, then a 200 size would be best. I have set 1000 gallon tanks with my 315, but it is a little hairy. You gotta be careful. If you use a 150 size hoe, I know that you will not be able to pick it off of the truck.
ok i was thinking a cat 320 i got a buddy that installs septic systems quite frequently and he is going to help so hes my pro but he said it would be cheapest if i did the excavation
You might want to check with your tank providers too. If you can get a truck to it then they might pull it out and take it away for you(for a charge of course). I did a couple of those when I delivered, just dig around the tank and make sure there is plenty of room to work around it. They'll also have the proper lifting devices too. Your buddy is right it will be cheaper if you do your own digging as long as you pay attention to your grades. As for permits and such I'd just go to the town offices and talk to the person in charge of that kinda work. A lot of places don't care who puts it in as long as a engineer will sign off on it, and that's where the cost will be is getting a engineer to design a system for you and then just follow the specs that they give you. As for machine size unless you get a two piece tank anything smaller then a 315 cat or equivalent is dangerous if you aren't experienced. A low profile or heavy duty tank can run right around 12,000. A standard seamless 1,000 is around 10,000 or so. Then you've got the lifting equipment and the height to make the pick.
I still havent figured out how in the hell any of you can give any advice yet! is it plastic or steel or concrete? ,....how many gallon is it? I have set 1250 gallon tanks with my Mini-Ex before. but they were plastic! Pj
septic system Ive been doing septic system installations and repairs for almosr 15 years. I agree with most of the info here ESPECIALLY GET SOMEONE TO DO IT FOR YOU. I have tried twice to remove a tank, that was just 6 months old (different jobs) first came out with a lot of digging, the suction on the bottom was great, it took almost 4 hrs to get it out, the tank truck lifted it. Second, we hooked the tank truck to it again and messed with it forever and when, it came out, it was in pieces. I never again messed with removing tanks, until I crushed them. The cost factor is too great, compared to the cost of the tank. I talked to my friends that are in the business and everyone of them said, dont try to remove the tanks, not worth it. If the permit calls to replace the tank, we do like others stated, crush it and fill it and dig a hole close to it and set it to the elevation required to the house plumbing. The tank supplier, will set the tank, then comes the drain field, HUMMMM First time HUMMMMM I was luckly when I stated and had a guy that worked for me, had 5 years experience and he taught me the ins and outs Laser level, did I say laser level, yep, laser level Most trenches are 3ft (some 2ft, some 18") 3ft trenches are best dug, with a 3ft bucket, it can be dug with anything smaller, but a pain. If its a rock system, have you got a sled to install the pipe and rock? Im hoping you are not going to say batter boards. If you just happen to install the system and it fails to pass inspection (lets say there is no more room to install a system, then more than likely the property could be condemned) could happen. You cant dig a system up, fill it in and start over, its a soil thingee (in my area anyway) OK, I could write forever, but save yourself a bunch of headaches, money, etc and get someone to install it for you. There is not that much profit it this, for you to rent all this stuff and try to do it yourself. The way we make money is we own our own backhoe we own our dump trucks, to haul rock for the system we have the experience and can install it pretty fast I dont know what kind of system, they are making you install, but in my area (mostly sandy soil) a 1000 gal tank, Distribution box and piping, 3- 75ft lines, at least 18" deep, crush and fill old tank, the cost is about $3200. This would take me about 8-10 hours to do, in best conditions. Without putting a sharp pencil, to this, Im guessing the final profit would be around $500-$700 Final question, can you rent a machine, worry about the system not passing, hiring help, hire dump trucks, buy rock, buy supplies, etc. for this amount of money. Its not a good gamble and Im not a installer that cares whether a homeowner installs his own system. But you asks the question and this is our replies Good luck and sorry for the long answer
ok thanks i dont know if this has any influence on your answers to my question but my neighbor and ex boss has a dump truck and a 320 cat that he will let me borrow so cost on rental is not a factor the labor will be me my brother and my neighbor so that will cost me a few cases of beer :beerchug so thats what 50 bucks maybe plus diesel fuel is it still cheaper to hire someone and my freind that does septics systems will make sure its up to code before anything is buried
oh yea its a 1000 gallon concrete tank
Not trying to sound like a Butt, but sounds like you have already made up your mind. Did I tell you about the time I borrowed my friends excavator, mine was working. It run hot and cost me $5500 to have it rebuilt. Im finished Good Luck
This just goes to show how reading and comprehension are two different things: No where in this post does he ask what can dig the hole. All he asks is, well read the post, comprehend it, and it's not that bad a question. It has been asked more then once on here and by people who have been in the digging business for years just never been involved in anything like this.
Well ask your mate who does septics how much the bloody thing weighs, get your mate with the 20 ton machine to look up the load specs for the machine and work it out. OK lets calm down, smash up the old septic and bury it, cart it off, recycle it in a garden feature, whatever and lets think about the new tank, which should have a weight rating. You can even ask the manufacturer and then you look up the manual for the ex and think about it. You can probably exceed the manufacturers rating by a little bit, as long as you lift up and move the truck and then lower and move it closer to the ex, wear the seatbelt. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO MOVE AN EXCAVATOR WITH A LOAD GREATER THAN THE MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDATION. Once the load is lower and closer to the machine it is safer, basically if the ex can lift it off a truck it can shift it close to itself but once again if you move the load away from the ex things change. Basically I am scared because you are asking a question which is answered in the operators manual, this does not make me confident that you can do this job without an experienced hand guiding you. You say you have a experienced friend to help you? Why does this experienced friend not know what can and can't be done? Has this friend ever installed a septic tank this size? I am not saying you can't do this but make sure that you think and plan it through carefully, having someone crushed under a septic tank is bad, very bad. If you have doubts get a pro to help. I do not want to discourage you from doing things but I also do not want to see you end up getting hurt or hurting others. Oh yeah, I seem to remember someone saying that as a general rule an excavator can lift 20% of it's own weight safely but that could be a faulty memory? And also remove any attachments off the ex, eg bucket, quick hitch or thumb.
Just below is a copy of the OP, What do you suppose Excavation means?....you better google it before you reply because I bet your gonna get it wrong! how did you figure he was going to "re-do" the lateral field and get the tank out of the ground without penetrating the soil? Finally the OP said it was a 1000gal concrete tank and I assume he is talking about the OLD tank?, now a guy can give advice. where as if it were a 750gal steel tank(very likely, that's why it needs replaced) I still say you could get it out with a decent size mini-hoe. it punch holes in it and smash it up, drag it out, and as far as the offloading of the new tank.....all the concrete tanks I have ever bought has been set by the supplier, so again CoolCat shouldn't need a 50klb hoe tracking up mom and dad's yard, Kinda overkill if you ask me but I have to fix what messes I make in situation's like this. Coolcat: Sorry for trashing your thread buddy, and it sounds like you have your situation figured out and I hope all goes well, Take and post pic's we all like pictures. 95: Dont be a butt-head lol EDIT: something else I remember from many year's ago, there was a gas station that went out of business and a guy removed the tanks with a shovel and a garden hose so the Mini-hoe is more than enough lol. has anyone ever tried to float a septic tank out of the ground? PJ
The only advice I can offer is to never ask a pro how to do something. They will tell you to hire a pro every time.
Just to cheer things up here. Heres a tank I installed last week and did the job with a Case 580M backhoe. You can see off to the left of new tank where the old tank was. I pumped it out , crushed up top half of tank , filled with sand , and ran drain pipe through it to new tank.
Not totally relevant ... but heres one I did a couple of weeks ago. The designer included a pump in the replacement system I was putting in. I did about 2 minutes investigating and decided I could lift tank ten inches and save the customer from having a pump , so thats what I did. Heres the tank lift out pic and system complete pic. doug
pics
What put that tank into the hole?
In the first thread of mine , the delivery trucks crane set the tank.
Yeah - that's how we usually do it, unless you don't really have a "road" for a remote site.
power joke thats entirely ok i was laughing my arse off reading your posts:falldownlaugh that basicly consisted of a english comprehension class curriculum im still laughing and in tears because of the replys as for the tank i will be starting the project soon and thanks for all the replys ointlaugh and these smile's are awesome when i start the project i will have to :stirthepot (or in this case stir the tank) and then im sure something will hit the :shf and then i will be so that i will want to ointhead but i will end up :guns:spongebob those are great i can tell a whole story just with smilies
I hope that everybody has had a chance to calm down and take a breath. Just because somebody asks a question doesn't automatically mean that they don't have any experience, they are just asking a question. I don't want this board to turn into another "Hire a Pro!" or "If you have to ask you won't be able to do it" answer to every question. Every pro moves into new areas and needs advice too. So let's stop assuming the worst and try to be be helpful.
I agree.
I learned a long time ago it is cheaper and a lot safer to ask questions first. So with that in mind can somebody tell me how to stretch my social security to buy a small place in Florida? The wife sees the leafs turning color and keeps wanting to move south.
I have a question about the tank removal. I have seen where most fill it with sand.Is that something to do with enviroment? I remove them in eastern Canada,and all i have to do is pump them out and crush /break up the old tank (usually metal) for easy removal. Just wondering.
depends on where youre located and your local codes.ive dug up lots of old septics that were just made from cinder block,usually the mortar joints are gone and yard has become one big cess pool! when i do sewer hookups to houses that have existing septic tank i usaully bring the new sewer in as close to the house as i can then i pump the tank into the cleanouts on new sewer before crushing tank and connecting new sewer to house.as far as setting new tanks i usaully just dig the hole and let the guys delivering the tank set it with crane on their truck. then i just do the hookups and run the laterals
I usually break them up and remove also ,whether they are metal or concrete. But some times it is ok to leave it there as fill and add sand so there is no voids. There no environmental reason I fill with sand , its just so there is no voids.
I don't know what the laws are where your from, but in Massachusetts if you don't have the design approved by an engineer, have a permit, and are licensed to do septic work in the particular town you're in, you'd have big problems if you got caught. That being said, it sounds like you have the right equipment for the job. Good luck with your project. It's not rocket science, but it's by no means easy. Stock up on Advil for your headache pain just in case.lol
Up here i do need and have a liecence from Dept of Health and they need to look at it before and after(for their fee of coarse). I just wondered about the sand,and if leaving it in ground filling makes sence.
At some point of their lives, even the "Professionals" installed their first tank, I wonder if they were met with the same "chicken little" syndrome as we've seen in this thread? When I put Heavy Equipment Forums together it was my vision to have like minded individuals coming together to help each other wherever they could. That happens here for the most part and I'm very proud of our members and their willingness to exchange this information. coolcatman, thank you for maintaining your composure throughout all this. One thing we need to remember as well is that we are all from different regions of the globe facing different rules and regulations. What might be a concern to some may not be in another place. Where I am, septic systems are governed by the County Health Department, but they only regulate new installs. Repairs are made without engineering nor inspection. What I'd rather have seen in place of the calls for hiring a professional is to express your concerns about some of the difficulties in a constructive manner and educate coolcatman instead of trying to defeat him. Yes, there are safety concerns with placing a tank, but are there not safety concerns with nearly everything we do in life? Changing a tire on a car can be dangerous if not done properly. Common sense should be used with this job and standard safety practices apply as well. One should NEVER place themselves under anything that is being lifted by a machine at any time, and one should not be in the hole while the tank is being lowered, this is one of the most important rules in working around equipment. I don't consider myself a professional, but I've installed 3 1000 gallon tanks without incident and they all continue to work today. One I even had to lower myself with my J/D 410 as the hole was not accessible by the boom truck. I made a sling from my tie down chains and lowered each half, it was about all the machine could handle. Digging out the old tank can take a while but by digging all four sides and a lot of wiggling with some crushing and they have come out without too much trouble. I've always put the new tank in the same spot as the old to minimize the amount of splicing to tie in the existing inlet and outlet pipes. I worked as a laborer on a few tank installs so I wasn't going in blind, but I soloed on all 3 that I've done. coolcatman, you'll have to do some math to determine your grade for the floor of the hole to be sure the tank inlet and outlet are at the right height. what I do is over dig the hole just slightly and then use 3/8" stone to level the floor to the proper grade. If you've done your math right, you just set the tank once and it's both level and ready to tie in.
Sorry Deereboy I was responding to the original question.
Nothing to be sorry about at all.I'm just happy to be part of it.In my last post the last line should have read "and leaving it in the ground filled makes sense". My fingers are faster than the brain at times.
I gotta go along with 95 here Joke. Since you're so adamant that you "answered" the original question it is more than a little obvious that, unlike you emoticon, you are not only confused but clueless(maybe we need a custom emoticon just for you?). The OP asked what he would need to lift the tank, not excavate around it or for any peripherals. From what I can see you have added nothing to this thread other than to demonstrate that you truly live up to being just what you were apologizing for!
Recently installed a 1000 gallon fiberglass tank 15 feet deep. Never did that kinda job before, just me and another guy. Was a piece of cake. Used a Cat 320. As for removing the old tank, it's probably a goner anyway so just demolish it and dig it out. A 1000 gallon fiberglass tank doesnt' weigh more than 1500 lbs cause we lifted it off the truck with a skid steer.
ok I posted the previous reply before reading all the posts. Concrete tank eh? ya I guess it would be heavier than 1500 lbs. Still shouldn't be a problem if you sit back and think the job over thoroughly.
septic system Steve, I agree with you and my reply, even though a little long, was meant to be helpful. I am a licensed professional and willing to help anyone. I have learned alot from the school of hard knocks, and these cost me a bunch, as a learning thingee. My replies, were trying to save someone a bunch of money only and not hire a professional. Bach in the day I used to do my own repairs on my cars and trucks, now that everything, is a computer, I take it to someone that knows what they are doing, this was another thing I learned from the school of hard knocks, after I shorted out a computer and messed it up. I am surprised that you could lift a tank, with a backhoe, I tried it with a JD310B and it wouldnt lift it. I was lucky, when I started and I had someone to help me, that was experienced, but we still make mistakes. As someone stated, we were all newbees at one time and hopefully we learn before it gets too costly. Its tough to put in a system and realize your guy, shot the trench bottoms wrong, now there is no gravity flow from the D-box. I was lucky all I had to do was lift the tank up a little. I dug around it and called the tank truck, to lift it. Good note to anyone that is new to this kind of work, if you set a tank and the water table is high, make sure you fill the tank up with water, after you set it, or it will float to the top, when it rains. I havent had any problems in sandy soil, but I still fill them all with water Thats all for me about this subject, Good Luck and keep us posted of the progress
ok well it sounds like i might not be lucky to do this afterall my parents found a system on the internet called aero-stream and it has some prety good claims and testimonials so they are considering trying that first heres a link to the video on it YouTube - Aero-Stream Install Video check it out and let me know what you think
Hi coolcatman1, If your tank needs to be replaced that pump will not solve your problem.
I think that gizmo will do nothing for a deteriorated tank.
whats the reason for the pump,agitation?
According to the website it aerates the sludge causing it to break down and clear clogged systems.
Hi Guys, My guess is that if the leach lines are not plugged yet they soon will be with the aerated sludge and water.
Sounds like snake oil to me, a septic with no problems should do the job, air pump or not. What exactly is the problem with the septic anyway? If there is a malfunction some piece of junk spruiked on the inter net is not going to fix it.
My opinion is that its as helpful as a can of STP engine rebuild . Snakeoil for short. Pumping air bubbles into the scum layer or sludge layer is asking to send solid particles swirling into the water layer and out to the leachfield. I would not recommend that product .
i couldn't see the video as I am at work...but to me, based on other responses, the pump is injecting air into the first or primary chamber of the tank?...correct me if i am wrong this is a huge no-no....aeration tanks are specifically designed to have a seperate and often 3rd aeration chamber. This is the final chamber before the efflent reaches the pump tank, it is to get the microbial growth oxygen in order to further decompose the waste. This is done in areas that have a very fast perc because the water in sense has less time to lose the "bad things" before it reaches the water table so the clarification in the tanks needs to be greater....very expensive systems you never want to agitate the main or first chamber of a tank...this needs to be as still as possible for a proper bio-mat to build and organsims to grow...as a matter of fact here in Pennsylvania it is now illegal to install round tanks on new systems because the round tanks allow the incoming sewage to stir the tank too much...now the only thing permissable is rectangular tanks
I'd like to take some technical issue here with the detractors of the "snake oil gizmo". Some background information is helpful. Firstly, the comments are quite correct in that the aero system thingy wont fix a tank that is structurally unsound and failing. Secondly, I doubt wether introduction of the gizmo to a system that is in a "poor" state will in all cases cure the problem. However, your typical septic field is a very crude treatment process at best. If you ran your leach drain into the ocean you would be prosecuted in just about any developed country in the world. The introduction of oxygen to the tank changes the make of biological breakdown from anerobic to aerobic. Both are biological, but the process is different. Areobic is much faster, cleaner and far superior in output quality to that of anerobic. Additionally an anerobic system requires a good stable BOD (Biological Oxygen Demand)..so the introduction of too much water will stall the process and the system will become nothing more than a complicated drain. Most newer Sewage Treatment Plants uses aerobic digestion in some part of the process. albiet sometimes only to reduce the production of Hydrogen Sulphide and to eliminate odours: thats why you see those ponds with paddle wheels in them, or they have aerators in the pumping system to oxygenate the effluent. Interestingly systems are now being developed that use a combo (both areobic & anerobic) because the difficulty in dissolving fats in any biological system. The gizmo could convert an anerobic septic to an aerobic system...but wether it will fix one thats already cactus I don't know. Aerobics systems have not been common on land based systems because of (in the past) the perceived much higher cost of acheiving the aeration. However, a good areobic system will easily produce drinking quality water at the end of the process (although it requires other mechanisms) whereas your "bog" standard septic is really not much more than 1/4 treated sewage. pun intended.
ok i need to clearify our system in not accepting fluid form the house it goes into the tank and overflows the tank we know the tank is deterioriating from the salt in our water conditioner the last guy that pumped our septic tank told us that. that system is supposed to kill the stuff that floats on the surface of the tank it is also supposed to kill the stuff that goes town the leach feild pipes and make them drain better does this sound right or should i just dig along the pipes in the feild and flust the lines and replace the dirt
No. 1, Do you even have the license to do septic work? Here it takes special license to do septic along with at least a "Restricted Master Plumber" license. Here the delivery trucks all have cranes so we get the hole ready, truck sets the tank and all is done. Inspector comes to check it, than can be covered.
Going to an aerobic system may help but I don't really think it would totally un-block a system thats already badly choked.....but I was wrong before...once
Was that the time I caught you?
And that would be when you left the dog at the jobsite? LoL...you was quicker than me special tool. :tong
I rectified my past error...I got divorced. and the dog should have walked home.
LoL...I can see where the divorce would be a notable step forward. But to make the dog walk home? Man, that's cold!
Hi coolcatman1 Assuming that you do install a new system,would it be possible to run the salt water from the water softener around the septic tank and then into the leach field. It seems to me the salt water would kill the bacteria in the tank that makes it function as it should. If it is strong enough to eat concrete it will surely kill the bacteria in the tank that makes the system work. There is a product that you can find in a hardware store that is supposed to enrich the bacteria in the tank, mom used a cake of yeast.
there is really no way around the salt water going into the tank any water that comes out of any indoor faucet or toilet (with the exception of the reverse osmisis drinking water system)will have some salt in it not enough to distinctivly taste but it is in there that all goes into the tank and the water softener purges the "brine tank" as my dad calles it and it all goes into the tank as well i know it is heavily rich in salt so i don't know ill look into getting the brine tank to dump somewhere else the feild is the real problem and i figured i would replace the tank at the same time since im gonna be digging anyway
I would have a dig around and make sure that everything is working as it should. I fixed my Mum's septic which had a blocked outlet but by the time I found that I had already put the bucket through everything, so I installed a Renn trench to do half a job.
I can't imagine that the little bit of salt from a softener is going to damage the tank. As far as the aeriator thing goes I agree on it filling the drain field manifolds. Here, by law all tanks must be pumped every three (3) hears. Maybe your answer is pump the system to get rid of the sludge.
I think I'd have more faith in the enzyme products that digest the sludge than the aerator. They can be had at any hardware store.
Exactly, aeration is part of a properly designed aerobic system which is more complicated and expensive than standard septic. As I said earlier, its difficult to see how aeration would "fix" and already dysfunctional septic which is not designed for aerobic breakdown.
im not trying to pis any of you guys off with this reply but in the areoater website they said the sludge is alive and it lives without oxygen and by putting oxygen in the water it kills the sludge which is "alive" there for making the sludge go away because its dead does this make any sense?:Banghead:beatsme
Coolcatman1: Short answer, No, not really, but they are correct in a sense if you can follow: Both methods are Biological....you don't want to really kill anything in a sense. Bugs breakdown poo. Going from anerobic to an aerated arrangement will reduce one lot of bugs and stimulate the others that thrive in an oxygenated environment. In an aerobic situation you don't want big lumps of stump and it will tend to make things more liquid. Anerobic breakdown can be likened to semi-liquid composting. "Killing the sludge" is really a bit misleading. If you were going to install the aeration system I think you would have a much better chance of success if the system was well pumped, cleaned, inspected to make sure no piping was blocked and the tanks/pipes etc are in good condition; then put it to work with the aerator. You may have to check your local codes though.
Hi again coolcatman1, When your accumulation of septic sludge is killed from the salt water and the tank fills where does it go? It has to go down hill into your leach field plugging the perforated pipes that allow your system to work. Just curious, how old is your system. I think Squizzy246B is giving you good advise. I would call a pump truck before the ground freezes this winter. It is also possible that your system was never big enough to handle the water load that your family is discharging to it.
the tank and feild are on a slope its not a big slope but there is tefinatly some slope in the yard where the system is ill post pics later today we are planning on getting it pumped in the near future
oh the system was installed in 1984 when the house was built as for the ammount of water it allways handeled it before so i dont see why it would'nt be big enough now
One of the things that we do when replacing a septic tank is to dig out to the 1st d-box and check out the drain field. Do this while the septic pumper is there, or before if the tank level allows and have the pumper pump out any sludge in the box.If the line is cast iron replace the line between the box and septic tank. This is one of the places that plugs up from sludge build over years of use.
i'm quite sure a 450 deere would handle your septic tank
dirtdog the pipes are all pvc in this system
If your system is backing up it is quite possible that your drainfield has failed, a clogging bio-mat forms and interferes with the absorption of effluent into the trench sides and bottom. once the soil is saturated there is nothing you can do to make it take water again. To use an analogy if you have a glass that is full of water to the rim, no matter how careful you are you cannot fit any more water into it.
well boys guess i am not going to get to dig up the yard after all this morning my dad got rather pised at the whole septic situation and got a 60 foot snake and sent me out back to see what we could snake out i ended up getting a big chunk of that cakey crap and the feild accepted approximatly 150 gallons of gray water after i pulled the snake out i included some pics the whole system seems to be working good now i asked the guys on letstalksnow.com forum also and they suggested some stuff called wham i got some of that and it also went down the pipe to the drain feild me and my dad are very greatful for all of you guys's advice
Take the good advice from WILLIS BUSHOGIN
I agree. The enzymes will do better than the aerator. A friend with the same problem did just that. - charlotte septic tank pumping
Welcome to the Forums ramonfernandez!
Is the third picture the outlet baffle? It looks like to much scum/solids are making it out to your leach field. I would install a polyloc filter in lieu of the open top tee outlet baffle. Also, in NH, the state recommends installing a separate drywell to handle the backwash from a water softener, do not allow it into your septic tank/leach-field.