OK, a newbie here asking some more experienced operators for some roading tips. I have a Case 580K 4 X 4, and I was wondering; * Is there a way to keep the machine from bouncing so bad when roading? I thought perhaps adding a bit of weight in the bucket, but I am worried about how it will impact braking performance, by taking some of the weight off the rear wheels... * Seems like when I am at top speed, especially when in fourth gear, the machine tends to start bouncing on it's own. Is there a trick to prevent it? * It seems like top speed is around 20 mp/h, are other hoes faster? Seems like some newer JDs and JCBs I have seen are a bit faster when I see them in traffic.
Don't know of any magic cure for the problem. The newer machines you are seeing probably have ride control?
When I road my 580k at full speed I unlock the rear boom so it floats on the hydraulic oil in the boom cyl. 20 mph sounds right and they will slow down considerably when you come to a grade. My machine has the heavy counter weight on the front and I keep my tire pressures at spec. My machine is very stable at top speed and I have no problems running 5 to 10 miles on the road. If the brakes are right it will stop the machine fully loaded in very little distance just make sure you use equal pressure on both pedals or lock them together when on the road. If you catch only one pedal at speed you are going for a trip and might not survive they can be dangerous. The 580k is by far the best hoe for the money and for when it was made. The newer higher horse machines are great but the prices reflect the changes.
could be worse, ask anyone who has tried to hit the highway with solids.
Hmm, so top speed is the foot throttle pinned? Used to drive a truck that had a long throttle linkage, at some random point something like a small bump would start an oscillation that included cab flex and bounce and this would cause the throttle to move, increasing the amplitude rapidly. The solution was either let off till it stopped or apply full throttle, removing the slack from the linkage. If its not the throttle, check for tire run out, put it up on the outriggers and see if the tires are out of round or if they wobble side to side. A backhoe is a mass sitting on four springs, and it has a frequency at which it will resonate or bounce. Changing weight front or rear may help change this frequency to where the bounce isn't at max travel speed. Chasing vibrations, high or low frequency, big or small is a bit of an art with a little black magic mixed in. You could even find that boom a little left/right or some offset weight in the bucket will upset the cycle.
Never thought of unlocking the boom; When I think of it, I remember the boom pitching the machine pretty good on a couple bumps. I'll give that a try. Thanks, everyone!
Don't just unlock it and let it float, as there is one more thing you do. Push the boom all the way forward when in transport mode. It is supported by the boom cylinder, and held tight against the stops by hydraulic pressure. Give'er. When the boom starts to show travel allowing the boom to mover up and down, suck up the boom tight again on the boom cylinder, Give'er some more, and repeat as necessary. Sucking it up can be done on the move too. The trick works on John Deere as well.
Tire pressure makes a huge difference. Also keep the front bucket curled back slightly and low to the road. If it starts to bounce the bucket hitting the road will control it until you can slow down.
I have a 580K as well, and I also position the boom all the way forward. Case backhoes are inherently more stable, because of the "over the center design." Also, If any mud or clay is clumped up on you rims, that will throw off your balance.
Take a look at the undercarriage, I bet you don't see any springs or shocks down there. The only springing you have is the tire deflection. Not much in the way of damping, which is what the shocks do, in a tire. Drop the tire pressure, it won't bounce as much, but then you have to have some way to get them back to spec. Best thing is to just slow down, not that much difference in trip time between 15 and 20mph. If you're going to move it 10 miles, probably safer on a trailer. I drive my ancient Ford about 6 miles to the dealer, but it's a country backroad and I might get it up to 20, on the flats and smooth road. And it bounces.