i guys i just looking for a little info on the s7 i got to go look at one sometime soon to see about buying but i not a relay a scraper hand more of a young pup. just trying to get my duck in a row as it's a 5h drive to look at it. dose not look to have any welding around the neck, tires have bean up for 2 year so i going to say they will work for me as this will most likely be yard art lol just for play and maybe a show or two. i know it's a power shift but i not sure if it's a conversion from the stander or factory one the cab i know is aftermarket. what would tear up the ejector wall top so bad? and last but not least what a market like on them? bean hard to put a price on it it run's but has some hyd leaks.
Tough little machines. I only remember that the two I was around had 5 speed manual transmissions.
It should have an Allison 3340 transmission if it's original, the only one I ever got to play with had the stick shift and wouldn't stay in second gear. A D6 did a good job of pushloading it, it was a lot of fun to play with. I would say the damage to the ejector was from toploading rock with a frontend loader or excavator. And look the rear wheels over good, looks like web on the RH side may be broken... not a good thing.
I think everything Euclid built was tough, I spent a bit of time on old TS-24s both with the 6-110 and the V-12s, keep grease and oil in them and they just kept going. Much better machines than the early 637s.
As for what they are worth, not much, basically scrap price if even that and I'd say if you were trying to sell it rather than buy it, you'd have a very hard time to even find anyone wanting it, let alone pay much of anything for it, if that says anything for its value on the buyers end. Check it all over, the largest thing I've found is does it shift through the gears and give it a run around, as for oil leaks, the largest thing I've found with mine is the steering cylinders and if they leak, they have a gland that you tighten up and it squeeze's the seals together, those glands have a lip inside that tends to break off, those parts are no longer made and most in the junk yards are also broken, I had to have a shop machine new one's for mine, without them you have a large boat anchor, hoses are no big deal, and mostly reusable ends on them to fixing is cheap and easy. The Allison auto has a gear box on the back side of it, inside there are gears and bearings that are obsolete, if I were to buy it, I'd pull the cover off and see what style of bearing is in it, along with the flat gears, depending on the model year and if any updates were done, the newer version can be replaced, the older version is beyond hope. If you buy it, replace the bearings to save the gears set no matter what version of gears are in it. I've been told the newer version is the same as a 14b and those are still available. I spent about a grand on gears and bearings to do mine a year ago, used gears new bearings. Check the cutting edge for wear and see if the edge has been flipped already or if you need a new set of cutters on it, check to see if the blade holder has been welded up or worn thin, you'll need a new cable for the pan gate lift, no big deal, but needs to be done. As for the top back portion, as has already been said, someone knocked it off while top loading it, not a big deal either. If you buy it, make sure to change the hydraulic filter, those are only paper and once the paper comes apart, the paper debris ends up in the valve and causes serious grief, same for the suction filter in the tank. Change the Allison filter as well, its a paper cartage style in the side of the Allison auto. Make sure the steering pins take grease before you buy it, check for play in the those joints as well, those are a bugger to get out, you'll flame them out with a blow torch to replace them, if the joint is worn too much, I'm not sure the scraper is worth fixing or buying. Best of luck.
thanks for all the info Guys your info is just what i was hoping for. i will be sure and check the steering as it dose look relay wet around there. yes i was told the Powershift where the same as a 14b too. which seam like way over kill. i like the idea of scrap price as i bought other yard art for that price but this might be my first pic to by in running condition lol.
can any one give me a ball park price to rebuild the trans in this one slips in 3 and 4 and don't work first and second work great i was told. it should have a 4 speed Allison torqumatic transmission and torque converter.i would be doing the labor my self just parts or a rebuild kit i know that this is a vague question. just making sure i can afford to buy it and fix it up so i can use it.
Contact a dealer near you or a transmission shop and price an exchange for a rebuilt one and go from there would be my advice. Any shop dealing with Allison's should be able to give you a price either exchange or what they'd expect the parts that are needed would be and what they'd cost.
thanks i will do just seem when i i have non of the dealer are open lol. i am what you would call a weekend warrior i will try and make time next week.
well boy's i made a deal on the old girl last weekend. now i just got to find time to go pic it up and drag it home it's about 4.5 h drive so it not close what i found out about the trans is gasket kit is about 500.00 US or i can get a re-maned on for 6000.00. hope it something easy to fix cus the toy fund can't take another hit like that lol. i know this one going to be a in the early 60 as it's was not converted to power-shift but can some one give me a year 26SH12072. just over 7000 h on the hour meter. to make sure i got ever thing right for shipping it's weighs about 26,000 lb 8 feet wide how long i forgot to measure how long it was. how did Euclid do there service manuals one for each part or just one big one that covered it all? this winter i going to have to do the bole pins and a little work on the ejector plus a fixing a few hyd leaks.
S7 Hi There nice purchase, re.service manual my manual in the UK is one complete book for service and one for parts. There are approx 5/6 running S7 here in the UK,mine has a manual box which can be a hand full a Leyland 600 engine the rest is similar to yours Cheers John
This U.K. S7 is in very tidy condition, it runs very well and is a treat to see working, I am push loading it with the D8H, this is way more tractor than you need on the Stump, a D6C/D would soon load it and have it on its way, the down side being its not common to see tractors smaller than a D8 with a Scraper push plate welded into the standard blade, it can soon damage a blade face without this extra Steel up front. tctractors
thanks boys for the info that is a very nice looking S7. i think i have found all the books got 3 different ones on the way one form jensales and got 2 off e-bay. i will have to check my DW6 blade to see if it's got a push block or not. now i just got to find time to get her home then the fun will begin then we can start playing with it. thanks for the nice pic
Nice Purchase!!!
Man thats is nicekeep us updated
thanks boys yes that was one deciding factors as why i got this one. other than the back apron on this beaning messed up she has very straight sheet metal. got some oil leaks to look at as well. do they have a diff lock? i was try to move my s12 water wagon and i sure could have used a diff lock. just weighting for my trucker to have time to go pic it up did nothing all summer then get busy when i need something moved. lol
We rebuild those transmissions and do have some parts for them ol dogs. $4500 Reb/Exc with 6 months warranty on a transmission. C & C Repairs www.C-CRepairs.com 614-873-4675
well boys just weighting on a back hall to get her home. thanks for the info about the trans i will have to get it a part and see what i need first. hear are a few pic and a short video of her running around. https://youtu.be/TMmhn3bahus
That Detroit sounds good Martin. Maybe the tranny just needs filters or something simple. It seemed to grab decent in both forward and reverse in the video.
ya i hope so buddy your right it works good and grabs hard in first and second but as soon as you grab 3 or 4 it's like you hit neutral there nothing. when i get her home she be in the shop for the winter. say do you need and 4-53? got a line on some rebuild one at a friends junk yard.
Got two 4-53s in machines. Both are quite fresh but you never know. A spare might be in order if the price is right.
Nice machine! I had two Euclid S18s with a 6110b engine. They were tough machines. Euclid has a parts book and separate service manuals. I think any terex dealer will have them. Just tough to find parts for those old machines.
where they bug eye ones ?
Yeah, looked like your S7, same nose, had two air cleaners. We didn't have any cabs or tops though. I miss it. Euclid built some solid stuff. If you can keep em running you can move dirt cheap.
Guy here had 2 of the old S-18s... one still had the old 6-110 with the centrifugal blower. And it was a runner. It was an ex county machine with very low hours.
Any idea what happened to them or where they might be if they are still in one piece?
Ours had those roots blowers. Saw one identical to ours coming up at a Ritchie bros auction in Phoenix AZ on April 13th. It has some kind of rops on it. I'd sure like to have it. Shipping quote was 11k to NC.
that would have been nice to hear as them 6-110 had there own sound to them. someday i will have a 6-110 in my stable lol.
We had a motor go out in one about 15 yrs ago. Finally found a guy in FL had one from a train or something. Got it up here 4000$ later and it turned the wrong way. He wouldn't take it back. Never found another. They are hard to find. We have some parts for them and a book. Let me know if you get one.
well the stars aliened and got a good deal on a back hall so my s7 got home yesterday . started her up and played with for a few trips to get a feel of what need's done. now the long list begins tans leak check steering cylinder leak check fuel tank leaks check no brakes check too many air leaks to build presser check. cut the side boards off check. sand blast and paint where done she got 3 different colors of green on her. sounds easy right lol . now i have to start the search for a nice push cat darn. i would say my dw6 would work but i think that's going to be a long term project. so i did find that name plate for the trans and confirmed it's a CT-3340 are they a 2 speed with a hi -low ? or a true 4 speed? i will have to start read my books i guess.
not much to report. think i got the air leaks fixed so i should have brakes now had to do a little work on my lathe to make the truck air fitting work with 4 extra fittings very happy the way they trued out . fount out someone swiped my air horn . i thought i would Just "go thought the starter and clean it up a bit" as it was working but i had made new 2/0 Batter cables and thought why not. get her on to the bench and well 7 out of the 8 brushes are crack or broken so order some new ones with new bushings. i turned the Com down at the same time to get rid of the bad spot on it had to take about .030 off. i added a little more silver to the top of the contacts in the solenoid and we should be good as new for 18.97. from what i can tell it's the original stater and i was the first one to trim the com down.
Good job Martin. Let me know when its ready to play. We plan on riding up your way sometime this summer.
You guys know anyone in need of a 6-110 Roots Service manual? I Have a Euclid manual date June of 1962 that I could be talked out of pretty easy. Only ever got to play with a couple of those big boys back in the day. Company had a couple stationary PTO engine 110's they were still using to power a crusher. Actually the first 110 had a bearing go out in the centrifugal blower so that engine was tossed aside and the Roots blower nit installed to replace it!
well after putting it off i pulled the 4-speed Allison trans out of her to see why i have no 3 or 4 great. trans numbers are CT-3340 serial # 256 Part # 6759832. first and second work just fine pull hard in can self-load. the cluch presser is about 125-135. when i shift into 3 or 4 it like hitting neutral. no load on the motor but can feel it shift little shake or jerk. if i pin the throttle in 3-4 the cluch presser will drop to about 90 but will come right back as soon as I come off wide open throttle it will come back 135 at idal. reves 1 and 2 are little higher are about 150. tried shifting manually at the trans to make sure there are no cable adjustment problems. from what I can see from the manual looks like 3 and 4 share the C-3 planetary gearing. the filter is really clean like nothing on it. I have only really got about 10-15 hours on her since I got it. do I have to take the drop box off the back or does it all come out the front? not sure about my custom dip stick either? does that look right to you guys? i have never been into a trans before any no no or must do's.
I would drop the pan off it first and check for anything abnormal in the bottom. then I would clean out the pan, temporarily put it back on, stand it on end, and unload the thing from the front end. if there is a centre support, the valve body will have to be removed to take out the capscrew that holds it. I've never had that particular model apart so i'm not sure if it has a centre support. someone else on here likely knows. check input shaft endplay before you pull the pump assy then you'll know if you need a different thrust washer. check the inside of the case for any damage or unusual wear. you probably have a leaking clutch seal and warped discs
pulled the pan last night and it very clean inside same as the filter. like nothing in any corners or anything. all the springs I could see in the valve bank from the shifter look to be good and not broken. the end play on the drive flange was .046 thousands of an inch. guess back to reading how to take the rest apart looks like I will have to un blot pump/ torq converter before it comes out. looking like it must be something simple or there would have been sines of ware or something letting go or it was all cleaned out before I bought it?
the endplay I was mainly referring to is the input shaft after you remove the torque converter assembly. the outer splines will be the stator support (ground sleeve) . the inner shaft will be the input and it will have endplay
ok well, I have ordered a shop manual for just the trans off eBay as my Euclid book did not seem to have all the info about the setting in the trans more just how to take it apart. where I think my problem is C-3 clutch pack but with no sine of failer or foreign material in either the pan of the filter makes me hesitant to take everything apart. I guess it could be a simple as a bad o ring or a snap ring not holding the clutch in place.
By your pictures, your cart is pretty far out in front of the horse. Problem #1. Manual/research/ask lots of questions #2. For your problem- check clutch pack pressures #3. Investigate the feed to those clutch packs #4(solenoids/valves). Tear down and repair #5. And if it is a complicated tear down, inspect/referbish everything in that case #6. You may have other O rings/seals on borrowed time with that age of machine.
thanks for the flow chart. that's why i am hear to research and learn. i have all the clutch pressure listed a few post up. i will say that i did not hook up a difference gauge to check that i was getting the same readings over both gauges. can one activate the clutch packs with air? or dose it have to go back in the the scraper or to do a test ? when my extra book show up i will see if there a way to to find a test port as i do not be leave that there a way to check the clutch presser out that the one main out.
Experience has a direct correlation between the number of screw ups and mistakes and how much you learn from them. My only point here as I have been the master of screw ups. I mistakenly pulled many components too soon, only to find if I'd checked or tested something further, removal could have been prevented. Your clutch packs are fed by oil, compressing a piston, thus squeezing the plates and separator discs together. Not completely familiar with your exact situation, was there a way to swap valves from a good clutch pack to a problem one? To rule out a damaged o ring on the clutch pack piston? Swapping would let you see if the problem moves with the valves. As you have the transmission out, I'd go ahead and pull it apart, inspecting everything. Check your discs for material coming off of them. Straight edge the separator plates for warping. Your on a budget, so you won't make it new. You can allow for some worn parts to go back together as log as the wear is non-issue for your level of use. Torque converters are rebuildable. Maintaining a good bearing to hold the impeller the proper distance from the stator is imperitive. A worn bearing will cause the convertor to slip more creating more heat. Heat kills transmissions. A worn transmission pump will kill them too once the oil gets hot and thins out. The pump may put out enough volume when at lower operating temperatures. Once hot you'll be short enough volume/pressure to keep the clutch packs smashed together. Don't be afraid to run a 10W C-3 or C-4 oil rather than a 5W ATF.
I'd also recommend finding a salvage transmission to practice on or combine the best parts of two into one.
Yes that works great for a bench test. Listen for different volumes of air leaking.
well i taken the valve bank apart and found nothing out of the ordinary no ware on the spools or bad springs. i cut the paper filter open and found nothing in there ether. wish this would come apart in assemble rather than have to take everything apart-to get to the next step. the hole drop box has to come apart according to the Manuel to get to the back of the trans and access to the set of clutches. i need a better way to remove them retainer rings as snap ring pliers don't cut it.
few more pics made a few bushings to help with the sloppy gas pedal along with a new bolt she should be good for another 75 years.
If you are talking about the snap rings with beveled ends, you need what are called "Horse shoe ring pliers" they should be available from better auto parts stores. I used to rebuild a lot of 5-6,000 series Allisons and have quite the collection of them. The other tool you will need is a clutch spring compressor, the manual should give you an idea how to make your own.
thanks for the info. that's exactly what i was looking for was not sure what they where called.
well boys she complexly apart. with nothing obviously wrong or have much ware showing on any parts of clutch packs so. just going to get new clutch o rings and stat building a clutch pack bench test stand J6467.
well, I got all my parts and started to put it back together. I did find that the cross-drilled hole that is in the main shaft that feeds first gear clutch had some blockage so I was able to dig all out. looks like the inside of a hyd line so I am going replace the cooler lines as they look to be factory. I guess I better pull the cooler apart and make sure it's not plugged. now I found a crack in one of my piston plates ears for hi range clutch pack witch is 3 gear when I tapped it fell off not a huge deal but I need to order more parts and another seal as I already installed the new spring and piston seal. my oil pump looks brand new and has now wear on it. the new pump seal has way less rubber in it but is to be made of better rubber right size anyone had experience with this kind of change up? so hear hoping the few little things I found will fix my problems.
hear the seal I was talking about.
Yep, the brown colored seal lip is the new and improved one.
Good to see you are making progress Martin. Keep us posted.
well, I went ahead and made a new clutch piston rather than fixing the broken ear. so I hope the new clutch piston along with new sealing rings and the junk I took out of the oil holes gets me a fully working trans. I had to reassembly it for a second time as the first time I was having a stack up issue and there was a bind when the back end was fully tight. everything turns free now and feels really smooth.
the next step was to do a little bodywork on the oil pan to get it back flat and ready for the new gasket, she as good as new now. what I need a little insight on is oil I can only find one place where it tells you what kinda oil to use it said c-2 hydraulic trans fluid. can one use c-4 oil as it seems to be more really available is there a weight I need to look for? A guy told me 20-20W but I don't really know what he means. I have heard about new trans fluids not working well with older trans and they have too many friction modifiers and don't work well with old frictions? will my oil come red like trans fluid or is it more like just regular hyd oil? I just have to go thought the cooler make sure it's clean then we good to put it back in once the weather gets a little warmer out.
C-4 is the current spec for your Allison, Some engine oils have that spec, In your case a 10 wt or even a 10W30 would be correct. Stay away from farm tractor fluid, I've seen a mess from that. A straight 10wt hydraulic fluid with the C-4 rating would work too if it doesn't have the friction modifiers for wet brakes. In the 5900's we would use 15-40 C-4 engine oil in hot weather. C-4 rating gives you lots of choices.
well got the tranks back into her and gave her a little test run and things all work fine and seem to run great. I do find it shifts a little hard into gear you can see it on the video. my ideal speed might be a little too hi it doesn't seem to come right down it's not snappy like some DD. after a few test loads I found she was getting HOT like 200 but would cool down if I sat for 3-5 minutes with the rpm up that was running with the hood off I am full of coolant 50/50 mix my thought are clog rad or thermostat? the exhaust manifold leaks little too but on the list to fix will the hood/sheet metal make a difference? next, I change the hyd filter man that thing is heavy a PT-193 from Baldwin works. thinking about trying to get the suction screen out of the hyd tank and clean it as I find the hyd to be a little slow. how tight does one run the cable for the apron I think it is a little long plus I got to reseal the apron cylinder anyways. hear a youtube video for your enjoyment thanks for all the help with the trans work.
I run the cable so there is a little slack when the pan is all the down on the ground and gate is shut, the other way to tell for the cable is when you have it fully open, the gate opens enough to allow the dirt to flow out, but we're in much wetter ground all the time compared to what you were working in. I need the pan to open up fully or the wetter material will never come out of the pan. My scraper has a wedge assembly for the cable, you just hit it with a hammer, adjust the cable and then pound it back down to wedge the cable again, a few trips with the scraper and the cable is adjusted for the conditions your working in. Nice scraper by the way, also great video, thanks for sharing.
working on getting her to stop marking her territory. the cylinder are of a very simple design just 2 snap ring holds it all together no nut's or threads to try and undo. side note the puller holes in the spacers rings are 1/4 NF if everything thing is in good shape you won't need a puller 12-14 inch long is just right. the only hard part is the one snap-ring is 6" down inside the tube. wish I had found the chrome in better shape then what it is. fun fact all 4 cylinders that are used on the scraper bole are the same so one would only need one spare.
Have you run it with the engine covers on yet? Not sure about Euclid but many machines need them on to cool properly.
Does anyone know if a s 14 rear end ring and penion fit a s7
I would say no