I have alot of evergreens to get rid of 4 inch and smaller. I have a case 1830 i will build a strait saw or shear . I am not worried about the stumps witch is better? I think the saw could be long and keep you out of the limbs.
For 4 inch or smaller, I'd build a shear similar to this. Teeth on one side, blade on the other. You'd be able to grab some trees and pull them out by the roots, leaving no stump. For larger tree, you can't pull out, then just chop them off low to the ground. Shear seems more versatile than a saw to me.
We looked at both options several years ago and ended up with a circular saw attachment for our CTL. I forget what brand it is, but the saw is mounted on a long arm and there is also a push bar out by the saw. We have used this now for almost 10 years on and off. It is much faster than a shear, and allows us to reach under limbs to get to the trunk. We can cut limbs off up pretty high, as well as cut the trunks any height we can reach. Usually we just cut them right above the ground, although we do sometimes cut them at or in the dirt. The dirt will dull the teeth pretty quickly, but the teeth are easy to replace with a hammer, screwdriver, and Allen wrench. I would vote for the saw. Jeff
An 1830 is not going to have a lot of aux. flow or psi. (I would guess you would have sub 14 gpm and 2K psi). Your not cutting a 24" tree but you would want to select an appropriate hyd motor for the limited specs on the 1830. A shear would be more simple for a machine like that to build. Put a rack on the front, push the tree over slightly using the rack and shear the truck.
Do you have any pictures of this?
Ours is a Dougherty Turbo Saw. I do not have any photos I can find, but you can check out the website for Turbo Saw. I believe they have one now where the head pivots, but ours is a fixed, horizontal head. Of course, you can raise and tilt the loader arms/linkage to cut at different angles. They did not have the tilting arms or heads back when we got ours. We have been using the saw on a T300 Bobcat CTL, low flow. Ours looks just like the one on their website that they have mounted on a "V420"? Gehl Jeff
I don't think an 1830 is going to run any saw well. 4" cedars shouldn't have long enough branches to be a problem for a shear. I don't normally have branches trying to high five the door until around 10". If you go with a shear, I would recommend one that holds the cut trees. Makes it easy to make piles or bunches. Dougherty makes a hell of a saw. I've played with one that used quadco teeth. If I had a high flow machine and the money, I would have one for big cedars.
I was talking about a strait saw blade like a hand saw not a hyd saw.
A straight saw blade? Hmmm I guess that is A way.
That would be sooooo slowwwww. Probably would work though, given enough time. Jeff
Have you ever saw one of these saws?I see adds for them all the time but dont know anything about them.
Thats what I was thinking to kinda like a rome blade just a lot smaller I've seen them but havent been able to locate a pic 4" and under I would wait till it was froze and shear them with my bucket
It would be simple to build a V cutter or something to go on the bucket.
There is a fellow in Fairbault, MN that has a D8 V-Saw with jagged teeth. I have never seen it working but he claims it does number on up to 6" trees in one pass pushing with a 2U-D8. On larger trees he backs up and slices a second pass. He used to clear hundreds of acres of alder brush in his land clearing business.