I need to pull a gooseneck cargo trailer, 14,000 lb GVW, in my business and private use. I wanted to get a straight truck with sleeper which would add about 2k to insurance but found I need the loading ramp on a gooseneck trailer. The Freightliner Sport Chassis or FL60 looks like the ideal truck for my situation but I can not handle the price. I wouldn't be using it everyday but maybe 1000 mile trip per month. It occurred to me that since I have a CDL I could purchase a used, simple, older model, high mileage single axle semi truck in reasonable condition at a reasonable price, far less than a sport chassis. If I adapt it to pull a gooseneck what kind of problems do you think I would run into? Would it make a difference to DOT whether I use a Class 6, or 7 or Class 8 semi truck with a 14,000 lb GVW trailer? Would I still have to stop at weigh stations? Do you think insurance on this set up would be much different than with the straight truck idea? Thanks
Welcome to HEF seabiscuit! :drinkup
What class license do you have? If you have a Class A or as us old timers call it a Class 1 then you can drive anything, if you have a Class B, you can any size truck pullin a trailer up to 10,000 lbs.
I have a Class A CDL. 1, If I buy a used Class 7 or 8 semi truck do I have to change the fifth wheel to pull a 14,000 lb trailer? 2. Would DOT make me get a single axle semi or will they let me use a tandem axle? 3. Can I use the trailer's electronic brakes or do I need to find trailer with air brakes? 4. Can a used Class 7 or 8 semi be reclassified as a Class 6 semi truck? 5. Can a used Class 7 or 8 be reclassified as a straight truck?
Are you buying a trailer with a fifth wheel hook up or a trailer with a pintle hook? If it's a fifth wheel car carrier type trailer then I do believe it's a different fifth wheel. You can use electronic brakes as long as you have the brake controller in the cab.
Yes it would be a car carrier type cargo trailer. That's what I was trying to decide on since I think the fifth wheel hookup is more sturdy. I would look for that kind of trailer if I can find a single axle semi. How used of a semi do you think I can get away with?
Hitch--etc I have a single axle former "semi" that I pull a gooseneck. A tandem duel wheel flat with dovetail I use to haul machinery and hay. I removed the 5th wheel and put a 12 inch wide channel across bottom of frame with a 25 ton ball. Put electric brake control under dash. Works OK but need fenders or a flatbed to stop water flying in wet weather. Just have flaps now. I'm farm and have been lucky not to have been checked by DOT as they would surely find a problem of some kind-----LB
People do what you want to do all the time with no problems, especially since you already have a CDL. A single axle tractor would be fine and could handle the 14K trailer easily. The only reason to convert to a gooseneck is for the articulation it offers. There are a lot of ranchers that do what you want to do and convert to the gooseneck hitch so that they have the articulation they need when hauling in and out of pastures with significant elevation changes. Running electric brakes is not a problem including with DOT. A tractor pulling a 14K trailer with good electric brakes will stop just fine in any conditions. I would recommend a Prodigy electric brake controller. They are as good as the electric ones get. Used single axle tractors go for reasonable amounts. Look at www.Truckpaper.com . for a good quantity of these tractors. Good luck.
A class 8 truck can run indefinitely if properly maintained. The most important thing will be the amount of rust the truck might have, that's not easily reversed. All other parts can be either rebuilt or replaced without too much trouble. The price you pay initially for the truck will determine the value in the amount of repairs you need to do. Some of the trucks I drove for the company I worked for had in excess of 700,000 miles and were daily runners. Look for a retired fleet truck with good maintenance records, perhaps take an oil sample for analysis. You can get many years of service from a used truck that has been serviced well.
4+4 transmission I saw 1950 Peterbilt single axle for sale on ebay with a 4+4 transmission. Is this the type where you have to steer with your elbow around the steering wheel and shift two gears at one time? How many gears are in this transmission?
? Hey guys, not to high jack this thread..do you need a CDL class A or B to operate a class 7 truck (cab and chassis single axle) even if your not pulling a trailer?
I think as long as the trucks rated GVW is 26,000 lbs or under you don't need a CDL
A 4+4 is actually 2 transmissions one right behind the other with 4 in one and 4 in the other, giving you a combination of 16 gears. Or sometimes known as a 4 spd with a 4 spd brownie. Other combinations can include a 5 and 4 which is what I learned on. Texas Hayman: A class 7 truck is rated at 26,001 and up. The Federal standard requires States to issue a CDL to drivers according to the following license classifications: Class A -- Any combination of vehicles with a GVWR of 26,001 or more pounds provided the GVWR of the vehicle(s) being towed is in excess of 10,000 pounds. Class B -- Any single vehicle with a GVWR of 26,001 or more pounds, or any such vehicle towing a vehicle not in excess of 10,000 pounds GVWR.
Here are a couple videos of people shifting 2 stick trucks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4a8SNT3uy-4 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KhPcDMGRxw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAADEoJpTFQ
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Texas Hayman! :drinkup
Class A license This is something to beware of, A Class A does not automatically give you the ability to pull anything. Depending on what you took your road test with could result in a "O" restriction. If you tested with a Fifth-wheel truck then you can pull anything, BUT if you tested with a pintle and pup trailer then that's all you can pull you CANNOT pull a fifth-wheel trailer.
Not necessarily. It depends on your states CDL rules. I have a class A CDL and there are not any restrictions to trailer type. I took my road test with a pintle but I am licensed to pull 5th wheel or whatever. You need to check your states specific rules.
After watching those 3 BoobTube vids, I'm glad I got restricted to AutoShift 18 speeds.
youll need a class a if your gross is over 26k and the trailer is more then 10k
Thanks for posting those shifting videos, sbrem, they were real informative. Now I see driving with out power steering and a double transmission was physical work. One guy doesn't use a clutch, one guy clutches sometimes and one guy double clutches! Did the double transmissions allow for less use of the clutch? Another question: I'm looking to buy an old used truck, now I'm thinking an earlier model than the 4+4 transmissions though they have a real good look to them. I see most have been rebuilt one or two times. Typically how many miles does a rebuilt road truck (say 1980's) go before it needs an engine overhaul, or a transmission overhaul? And another question: If I have a tractor that is a class 7, with a GVWR of 26,000 - 33,000 lbs, and actually weighs 10,000 lbs, and I pull a trailer that is GVWR of 15,000 lbs would I still need a CDL? I've seen semi trucks with tandem axles that were rated as a Class 6, 7 or 8, what on the truck determines the classification rating?
Great question Seabiscuit! i would love to know as well..on a side note i am going to register my Ford LN 8000 as a farm vehicle,basically all it does now is pull tractors,bailers and hay trailer.
My understanding of the rule is that you need a Class A CDL to pull any trailer with a GVWR of 10,000lbs regardless of weather you are pulling it with a 1/2 ton pickup, class 8 truck, or riding lawn mower (well ok, maybe not with the lawn mower ). You don't need a Class A if it is the truck only, no trailer, and then it depends on the GVWR of the truck. I don't really know the specifics of the class system, but believe it depends on the GVWR of the truck, regardless if it is single axel, tandem, tri axel, quad, etc, but while you might be able to register a single axle tractor as a class 8, you would not have the cappibility to haul the load you are rated for (leagaly at least), and your plates & insurance would be a lot more expensive. Like wise if you registered a quad axle dump as a class 6 you might be over your weight rating without a load. If you have farm plates you don't need a CDL, just an "F" endorsement (here in michigan anyway). Occasoinaly a farmer will get busted and not be able to convince the authoritys that his load of gravel is a farm commdity, but that is rare around here.
Seabiscuit - Go down to the MVA and ask for a copy of the MD Motor Carriers Handbook. The latest one I have is the 2003 edition with the green cover. It'll have the answers to all these questions. Remember that even if you don't need a CDL, you'll still need a DOT medical card for a commercial vehicle over 10k lb.
Seabiscuit, Biggest issue is that the tractor's rear suspension is designed to carry heavy loads. This makes for a stiff ride when pulling lighter trailers like campers, race car haulers, etc.. This stiffer ride puts a lot of wear and tear on the trailer. The solution is to install a "ping tank". Here's a link that explains it: http://www.landlinemag.com/Archives/2001/Feb2001/Your_Equipment/retirement.html You can do a google search for "ping tank" and there are lots of other links. Second biggest issue is getting the 5th wheel height correct so that the trailer rides level. Joe
Cdl I see my little driving vids are popular here too? LOL!! That's me in the B model. I drag a 40ft Haulmark trailer for my race car. To help ease the pain on the trailer, I cut the spring pack down to only 3 leaves and it rides pretty nice. My trailer is 3K lbs on the pin, so 22K spring pack would not move much. Granted I can't hook to a real trailer with the current set up, but not a real problem with truck just a toy. My truck is historically plated, though I do hit scales when open to avoid any unwanted "chases" for blowing by. Six years without any issues and I've been three states away.
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Freightrain. Glad to have you here. I don't know if there is anywhere on the net that your video hasn't been posted!
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Freightrain! :drinkup
Thanks for the welcome! Who wooda thunk something like that would turn to be such a cult favorite? LOL! Just some more information for seabiscuit: "Another question: I'm looking to buy an old used truck, now I'm thinking an earlier model than the 4+4 transmissions though they have a real good look to them. I see most have been rebuilt one or two times. Typically how many miles does a rebuilt road truck (say 1980's) go before it needs an engine overhaul, or a transmission overhaul? And another question: If I have a tractor that is a class 7, with a GVWR of 26,000 - 33,000 lbs, and actually weighs 10,000 lbs, and I pull a trailer that is GVWR of 15,000 lbs would I still need a CDL? I've seen semi trucks with tandem axles that were rated as a Class 6, 7 or 8, what on the truck determines the classification rating?" Depending on who beat it to death, they last a long time. My truck is all original, never touched and it's a 1959. Figure 500K to 700K before they start to need attention(this all depends on maintenance that has been done). You can plate the truck for what ever weight you want. Ohio has a 22K plate that would really restrict you and eliminate the need for CDL. If you hang a trailer on the back and you go over 22K you're overweight and will get caught sooner or later. My rig is registered for 33K, and I'm just around 27K with trailer. I was questioned once at scales about this and even though it has historical plates, the weight still comes into play. The heavier the plate, the MORE the cost, as when I had truck plates it cost $340/yr. for 33K lbs. There is alot of grey area in this as with the change of use that big trucks are getting, the laws have not adjusted to them and even though you can be "legal" per say, someone can "read" the rules a bit different and try to get you in trouble. I got my CDL to CYA even though in Ohio you don't need it for historical plated vehicles. Since I travel to other states, I don't want issues that will make your day very longggg.
another option is the price of medium duty diesel PU's is coming down fast. due to the price of fuel, as well as a slackend RV market. You should be able to buy an F350 or their counterparts (GMC or DODGE) reasonably low, and stay under 12,000GVWR, that way, with your 14K trailer, you stay under the 26K category, and are not regulated by DOT, you dont haver to cross the scales (at least not this year), and your ins wont go up. Just make sure it has a regular Pick-Up bed, and NOT a flatbed or other type of aftermarket utility bed. I'm telling you, the rules and regulations are changing so fast, and open to interpretation by the officer that stops you, if he wants to, he'll find some kind of rule violation.
Welcome and as it stands a semi tandem or single with a minimal load is no worse as to driving or controlling than a pickup truck with a Tongue trailer, Gooseneck or Fifth Wheel camper. Most of it comes as of experience and basic capabilities as learned how to drive. Wet, powdery dry, ice or hot slick Asphalt and Concrete all present issues just have to drive to conditions. As to Goose Hitches on Semis is nothing new, if sits low enough or trailer tall enough the ball coupler can be exchanged to a Pin Coupler, if wish to tow either then as noted add a Goose Ball behind the Fifth Wheel. With a light trailer not necessarily going to exceed acle weights or braking systems or be required to shift weight as with a heavier tractor trailer load. Air ride becomes a bane and boon where will ride better with or without load as a spring system, also displaces weight better single or tandem. Only concern is torque lift as take off or drop as let off the throttle as for machine height. I have such a personal machine here. Tandem KW sliding fifth wheel over eight bag air ride with a 25k rated goose ball stow away hitch behind the slider plate. Works fine for me.
How did you stumble into this almost 20 year old thread?
Did not look at the dates!! Was a New either like or post also threw it at me!
Well now that it's revived---freightrain is still alive over on BMT.
You must have a ghost, or been hacked. The only likes are from you, as well as the new post haha