Thinking about buying a semitractor and a 40 yd demo trailer. Need to buy used. The rig would cost less than a dump truck and they command higher rates. And there's plenty of work for those trucks, while we're in a worst-ever slump. We have plenty of class-A drivers. Probably can't use a road tractor for this, right? It'd take the same beating as a dump truck. Would we need a tractor spec'd similar to a dump truck, w/double frame, 4.56 gear, etc? What should I look for? What brands work best? Can I convert a dump truck to a tractor for this, maybe shortening the frame? thanks! kevin
Buy the biggest baddest truck you can afford. IT is much cheaper to buy the truck you want then to make it. Most welding shops chargin 90+ dollars an hour to lengthen shorten frames etc no need, a lot a lot of iron is sitting around for sale. Buy I would recommend the double frame never hurts to be extra strong, at least a 15 speed(cant have too many gears, if you dont need creeper dont use it, if you dont need to run 80 dont use it) if you dont have the right gear you need go slow to avoid a crash, tearing up your truck etc youll get frustrated with the truck easily. Get a very high horsepower rig, it takes x amount of horsepower to moves x amount of weight period. Case and point 2 semis one a 1990 international dt466 and an 1989 international with a 12.7 detroit. both same rear ends same trans same load same trailer same driver the detroit will get 6.5-7.0 the dt466 will get 4.5-5. The dt466 is turned all the way up have to drive it with the pedle to the floor the pumps alwas pumping maximum fuel struggling to move the laod. the detroit just cruises. You can always let off the throttle if you dont need the power. If you dont take care of your trucks yoru drivers wont, (sounds as if youll hire a driver out) you dont have to have a brand new truck but a decent truck that you have pride in will encourage a drive to care. If he complains about a porblem ie leaking wheel seals etc and you say itll be fine and you say a itll be ok eventally hell stop careing and say eah they wont fix it anyways so wont even tell you about it.
Kevin,I also think that's a good desicion. As for what to look for in the truck, Here's what I'd say too look for, from the aspect of "doing the job best": The heaviest built semi you can find, used. Already having a pump and tank on it would be a plus. I don't know if there is alot of double framed semi's out there though. It wouldn't be as critical as on a dump truck since the load will be spread over a greater span/wheelbase (trailer). A truck with tandem drive axles and a lift axle would be nice. Converting a dump truck into a semi may be possible, but would take alot of work if the truck didn't have the right air valves for the brakes. The changes in the plumbing would be time consuming, I'd think.(in addition to shortening the frame) If you've a truck already, that's paid for, that may make a conversion a more sensible choice. Many dump trucks don't haul the gross weight that semi's do, so power and gearing may be an issue if you decide to convert a dump truck. But this is what I'd think would be the smartest way financially: I'd probobly use a road tractor as the starting point. There are alot of road tractors that can be picked up cheap. If a pump and tank were installed, and the skirts and low hanging plastic removed, the truck could be pulling loads relatively quickly and inexpensively. My argument for this approach over searching for a truck better suited for the job is that the intial cost would be much less ,and if it seems that the choice of a semi had an increase in profits over dedicated dump trucks, later the choice to fine tuning another semi's specs for the job could be followed through on. If not, the truck can be unloaded without as much loss. You may be able to purchase three road trucks for the price of two heavy spec'd semi's, used. Obviously the road trucks are going to cost more for maintenance under those conditions, but I think if the plan that these trucks are going to be "used up, and tossed out" as soon as they become excessively problematic and replaced with another truck, then overall they would be cheaper to operate than buying more expensive/better spec'd trucks, and trying to maintain them as if they were going to be a perpetual part of the fleet.If I was purchasing new trucks I might not be as inclined to take this approach. Certainly someone could make a case for the "right tool for the right job", as an alternative. But I believe that the flooded truck market with road trucks might be able to be taken advantage of for "expendable" work trucks. If your company is geared more towards keeping and maintaining the same equipment for extended periods, then possibly the other approach would be better financially.:beatsme Good Luck in your desicions.:thumbsup
Truckwise, for me, as a balance of lower cost and acceptable performance I'd look for the following: (but I would compare prices to an ideally spec'd truck also, and might choose that if not enough cost savings was evident) Brand: Freightliner. They are less expensive to purchase due to their volume on the used market. There's more dealers than most other brands. Their brand specific parts are less expensive than many other brands. I feel that when the purchase price, general overall quality, and cost of maintaining are all factored together, they're the winner.(I wouldn't say they're the best in any one area though, only overall) I'd look for a short truck, w/removable sleeper, or a daycab.I wouldn't rule out a very short intergrated sleeper truck, if the price was low enough. For engines: Detroit series 60, 12.7L. They're dependable, fuel efficient, cheaper to rebuild than Cat's, and common. It wouldn't be a deal breaker, if not spec'd in the truck, for me. Trannies: I'd not go less than 10speeds, preferably 18/15/13 speed Eaton (in that order).I would not have a Rockwell tranny. Rear ends: I feel the almost standard "40k" tandem as acceptable, but better if higher. Either Eaton or Rockwell, no difference.Gearing would depend on the trannies ratio's etc., but probobly not higher geared than a 3.90(a lower #). A dealer could help determine if low gear startability would be ok for your situation, if they were truly interested in your business. I agree with Thejdman04 about driver perception concerns. If I had a high turnover of drivers, or there were low job morale issues, I'd take that into consideration when deciding what to buy. again, Good Luck!!
Try find yourself a Kenworth T-800 Daycab if you can find a truck with 12-46 axles with N-14 Cummins or 3406 Cat power 18spd. Have a wet kit installed on the truck so you can pull end dump. Converting a dump truck to a tractor isn't that hard take the box off bolt on a fifth wheel mount a cab guard and put on tractor plumbing your ready to go. If the dump truck has been set up for pulling a pup trailer and its got piping to the rear apron its easy to do the tractor plumbing. If the truck needs all the tractor protection valve and the johnny bar its not worth it.
I'll throw something into the mix, just to see if it changes anyone's ideas. Florida is flat. If the truck is going to stay local there, does that impact your opinions on how much power and how many gears are needed?
He needs atleast 400hp which you can get out of a N-14 Cummins or Cat or Series 60. You really don't want to be dealing with a L-10 or M-11 Cummins or any thing less than 14 litre engine. If you get into any of the off road stuff or working in soft dirt you need the low end grunt. A tridem demo trailer with a regular truck tractor can legally gross 115,000lbs so a 300hp M-11 truck really isn't going to do.
Holy thread resurrection, Batman! The company I worked for when I made this request laid me off, then went out of business. I got another job, worked there for 2+ years, and got laid off again. We never bought the rock hauler I was thinking about. FWIW, this company had mostly 2004-2005 Peterbilt triaxle dump trucks with ~420 HP C12 and C13s, 8LL & 4.56, all very well-cared-for trucks. Thanks for thinking about me. Gotta run!
if age isnt a problem you should buy an older mack wih a triple countershaft 10spd transission and if the mack is from the 80s you will find one with a double frame with your specs. we have an rmodel tractor with a triple countershaft 5spd not fast by anymeans but can pull allday. If you want to also have some speed with your truck a triple counter shaft 10spd will move it and go nice down the high way.