I've been feeding my 2015 Deere 310L with Rotella T4 oil. I change it yearly, as a farm machine never gets the same kind of hours that a 9-7, M-Sat construction firm puts on it. I also change the oil filter, and the fuel filters yearly. Transmission filter and hydraulic filter every two years. Is it worth the additional $14 a gallon to go with full synthetic Rotella? What is it going to buy me?
Nope
I run 5w40 T6 in everything. It's about $22 a gallon if you shop around
Wot Jonas said.
I've been buying the T4 at tractor supply about about $19 a gallon.
I just looked at the chart in the manual. I can use 10w-30 all the way up to 15-40 depending on air operating temperature. Why don't companies just specify the greatest range between numbers, and just leave it at that? The manual doesn't even mention 5W-40?
So T6 is $3 a gallon more.
Dunno. We mostly sell 0w30, 0w40, 5w40 and 15w40 at work. 15w40 for stuff that stays running or is heated before starting. Some of the equipment won't even start if it's not warm enough from the heaters. Even 0w barely pours when it's cold.
10w-30 in T6 seems to be closer to $27 to $30.
I think Icehole is from Alaska . . . When an Alaskan says "cold" it means -30. Everybody else thinks cold is 25 above. Different world up there. You can't run 15/40 when it's -40 out . . .
FWIW the only synthetic blend oils we run are in our DEF pickups. Rotella T5 10w30 synthetic blend performs well for us in our climate. For all the yellow iron we run a Cat spec non-synthetic blend Mobil 15w40 bought in bulk from our fuel jobber. What's "cold"? LOL
Yes. -60* a few times last winter at work, though at home -30* is coldest, -20* more usual. 5w40 is the best "compromise" for me between summer and winter.
Test your oil and then you will know
If it was the other way around i would pay extra not to have to use it in most stuff. Used in the wrong way or engine it can be a nightmare . Long story but a buddy bought a 1967 Camaro . It has a rebuilt zero miles engine he drove it home less than 30 miles home and it used a Quart of Penn synthetic . They have a video saying never use it to brake in a engine. I put 10w30 Rotella in it but he hasnt got to drive it yet. What are the chances this will turn around?
My oil sample data suggests that synthetic is well worth the price if you are operating in an abnormally high heat application. T4 Ci4 will break down and thicken in 100 hrs whereas t6 ck so far has not had this problem. Outside of this type of application I am not sure it would pay you back unless you were able to go to biannual changes. I also found synthetic hydraulic (Petro Canada hydrex xv) oil highly effective at maintaining viscosity index in high heat applications. The reduction in wear is evident enough that I have had pump shops comment on how little wear we had on pumps and motors for the hrs on the machine.
I've been thinking of going to Rando HDZ 32 vs regular Schucks or NAPA brand. $50ish stuff. It's $$ though. Even with my "near cost" discount at work it's about 2x the price.
I have used Rando before with adequate result in most applications. My oil sample data suggests $50 is not good enough regardless of brand. This typically shows up as premature oxidation with cheap oils in my experience. I am in Florida and tried to run the heaviest oil I can for a given application to reduce wear. Worlds different climate then AK. Oil samples are relatively cheap. If you don't measure it, you can't manage it. Good luck