So Im thinking of buying this 1981 Kenworth dumptruck with 3406 Cat engine and ( I think) an 8LL trans. All seems well maintained and owner very forthright but something bugging me. The trans has a Dee reduction low switch,(on dash)and a hi lo range switch on front of shift lever like normal. The shift pattern is whats bugging me Reverse is up left like normal. Then it seems to be down for 1st 2 and 3 like normal then over to far right and DOWN for 4th so far so good I have driven a 1983 vintage 15 speed just like that. (is that called j pattern or something?) Then up to 5th ? Nope theres no gear there.So it seems to be a 4 speed box with 3 ranges makes 12 forward gears? This seems odd Ive not heard of such an animal wondering if theres something wrong with trans that makes 5th inoperable or if it really is just 4 gears. Otherwise it shifts really nice,oil seems clean etc etc. Wondering if anyone has seen this pattern and what its called. Thx for any help.
If there is a tag still on the right rear main case what does it say for model? The old 15spd's had the deep reduction on the dash. How many air lines coming off the shift control knob to the transmission? Two-red and black or four red, green, black and blue? And what color is the front control lever on the shift control knob gray, blue or red? Truck Shop
It sounds like he is missing the 5th gear lever position, you know to the right and toward the dash that was found on the OD transmissions without the X in the model name. I'm not sure what he means by "nothing there"? Meaning the lever won't go up that way or when it does go up that way you are in neutral?
Some of the old Deep reduction switches were on the dash, a toggle type air switch where the trans was often used as a 8 speed with two lows and two reverses.
I still think the OP was having trouble getting it into the 8/4 position shown on pictures 1 and 3 but he has not confirmed. I am unaware of any transmission made around 1981 that would have that position missing.
You are correct there were no Fullers made like that as far as I know of or researched. I believe the problem would lye in the shift bar housing. Or something really strange and I seriously doubt is the front sliding clutch is missing on the main shaft. The only way that could happen is it was left out on assembly and the chances of that are slim to none. Even if the shift fork was bent you would still notice a rough grinding shift. IMO Truck Shop
Cannot assemble these out of time either, will not shift or roll thru at all. I wonder if he was shifting conventional pattern not reversed on higher two gears? RTO O
It sounds like he knows about the "O" pattern or "J" pattern as he calls it but could not get it into top gear for some reason. Just going to be one of those mysteries I guess.
My RTO15615 wouldn't go into/out of certain gears properly when I bought my truck. When I pulled the tranny apart and looked at the shift bar housing, all the detent and interlock pins/balls were rusted up and randomly locking up shift rails.
Good for you for taking the time to do a proper rebuild, very few even check the shift bar housing. Truck Shop
Had to come apart anyways. 2 shift forks were a little thin for my liking and figured I should replace them.
Do NOT forget the heaviest detent spring is for HIGH gear, made that mistake once upon a time, bad juju.
Sorry for not getting back to all who bycontributed. The owner has confirmed it actually is a 15 speed,but has not had 5th in the 2 years he's owned it.he has no idea why.the gearshift simply won't go far enough,or however one wants to describe it.im getting an oil sample done on it and if all good will.likely buy truck as is,the work I have for it is pretty low speed and I don't think it'll really matter that much. Also hopefully it might have an easy fix?
If its a shift bar issue (most likely) it should be a relatively easy fix. Hardest part would be to R&R the top cover and shift fork assembly. Hopefully it can be removed without dropping the transmission. If its a mainshaft/sliding clutch issue you'll have to drop the transmission and take it apart to fix it.
Thanks 92. Is there a good site that shows a 15 SPD kind of illustrated so I can see which shaft has what gears etc?I found a parts book but it's not all that explanatory as to locations etc.thx
Go right to Eaton's website. I found the complete service manual for mine on there. Should give a little more info than a parts book.
So i did buy the truck and have it home. Investigated 5th gear a bit more. If I push on the lever it does grind but resists going in. Detent? I dont know. I found a pictorial of how a roadranger trans works thats about it for my expertise in this field. It appears that a 1981 Kenworth has a plywood floor in the cab. No cutout for removing trans cover but I do have a skilsaw....Suggestions welcome.
Yep. Plywood floor. Might be worth pulling the 2 pieces of plywood and replacing them since you're there. The floor on my 1980 was rotten in a couple spots under the rubber flooring. On mine the hole in the floor for the shift lever isn't large enough to pull the shift tower through.
The shift rail/trans cover has cross detents as well the standard spring loads for keeping the shifter in or out of gear, disassemble the entire cover when you get it off and check all the detent components, if nothing there then reach inside the case and try to shift the slider into or out of high gear. If is a OO trans the smallest diameter center shaft(main shaft) gear is high albeit on the input shaft or on the mainshaft. See how much lateral movement there is in the mainshaft, try prying it forward and back should be minimal play, same for the high gear to the shaft it is attached. Could be a destroyed assembly ring or snap ring inside the gear allowing too much float, there are limits to how much travel in the gear train laterally on the shafts in the bearings.
Put a big load of rock on this afternoon and went for a shakedown cruise.To my annoyance discovered an issue with 3rd gear.Coming down a grade with jake on,quite low rpms,when i go to accelerate,sort of about when gear train stops holding truck back,itll jump out of 3rd gear. Didnt think to try and see if it does it without jake. Did try to get it to do this after i dumped load(empty truck) and could not make it do this,jake was on.
Gonna hate this post, time to drag the whole box out as that no longer sounds detents but incorrect retainer(s) or broken snap rings on the mainshaft gears or bearings.
yes i think so. Will likely run it for a few loads avoiding problem gears then pull out over winter. Any tips on doing this without a real transmission jack?
Rent one for the day? That's what I do. Or find some hillbilly that will take it out for me and use my time to do work that pays better.
Trans jack is a Necessity with these off balance square bottom trannies, especially to go back in. Want it square to the engine so the splines will align smoothly and you can get the fork across the release bearing assembly on the clutch. One note, adjust the clutch for the optimum freeplay PRIOR to removal of the trans, easier after to get back in.
May be another issue here. Dawned on me as one of those OLD brain cells sitting in limbo decided to fire. We had RT12513 Fullers in the late 80's with air lock outs for High Side on them, could use all but OD in 13th, also had a lockout once in High side would block highest gear as the trucks were geared they could run well over 85mph. May be such a lockout on this but doubtful, had a air poppet detent on the air valve side. By the fact will jump out of 3rd and not go into 4th of the main box I still Highly suspect issues on the mainshaft. Continuing to run it may or may not do more serious internal damage, if not trying to lock up may be OK until a short time in future. If you need to tear this box apart and have never done one, take it to a shop, some special tools required although I have timed these standing on end in a Budd wheel, NOT Fun.
Its 5th that is missing,as far as I know its missing in all 3 ranges but I need to confirm that. Like i said it seems to try to engage grinding noise etc but wont go in. The jumping out thing is 3rd so I think thats a different sliding clutch no?Would 4 and 5 be on the same sliding clutch I think ?
You have problems with the gears on the main shaft, as Dmiller has said. Third and fifth gears are right next to each other on the mainshaft. Fourth is direct, slider couples mainshaft directly to input shaft. Fifth is an overdrive gear. I used to drive a 1988 IH with an 8LL, had similar problems to yours. Mine started by slipping out of 5th, eventually would not stay in no matter what. Snap-rings and washers were gone, I guess this was a common problem for these transmissions.
Common to most the older Fullers. Is a allowed clearance where optional gear retainers thickness washers were used to take up SOME slack, slack got too bad they went into a self destruct mode eating themselves inside out. Most kits to rebearing and replace a few worn gears/sliders USED TO come with new retainers, I have not heard if still do.
Depending on how old this transmission is you may have a b***h of a time finding parts. When I did my 15615 I managed to get a complete Eaton bearing and seal kit. What I had trouble with was the fact that they had done some updates which required additional parts. My input shaft had wear so I ordered up the number that superceeded the shaft that I pulled out of it. Gear teeth didn't match the drive gear (super sloppy). Wanted to order the updated number for the drive gear but found the mainshaft key was updated from 3 sided (I think) to 6 sided. I had no idea if they would be cross-compatible and couldn't find anyone that could answer that. Didn't want to replace perfectly good mainshaft parts just for that. I did get lucky and found an aftermarket shaft that fit properly, saving a ton of headaches.
Figure on gut and refill by that information. Replace anything with a updated p/n to keep the box functional and the return to store parts runs to a minimum.
There are no snap rings on the main shaft except for rear auxiliary drive gear which holds the main shaft and rear bearing in place. There are spacing washers and limiting washers between the gears locked in place by a triangular or oval key 10" long. If transmission is jumping out of gear #1 worn sliding clutches #2 gears worn where sliding clutch engages #3 excessive main shaft end play #4 worn main shaft and limiting washers #4 broken main shaft key. If its an old box 156 series and down the main shaft limiting washers come in different thickness to set co-axle clearance between the gears on the main shaft. NEVER set one up tight it will roast it. The later High Torque series 157 and up have a no burn limiting washer {or no brain} the clearance is preset and all washers are the same. If it's jumping out of gear the detent springs won't hold it, Forget about that helping it. It"s rebuild time or get a reman. Rebuilding Eaton twin counter shaft transmissions is my game. Truck Shop
I was just thinking of the snap rings for the retainers in each gear, yes the rear bearing snap ring is about the only one on the main ring but the ones residing in each gear wear and once in awhile crack/float.
Not to contradict anyone on this thread, but there are no snap rings holding the gears in place on the main shaft. That is done with the main shaft key that locks each limiting washer and spacer in place which inturn holds the gears in place. Truck Shop
Not so much holding in place but were there not snap rings internal to each gear to keep them from floating? That retained the cogged washer that the assembly washer rode against?
Memories of my Working days!! Was told by at least a dozen guys could not time a Fuller without the insert tools. Did just as you have there so many times.
As I see on the table, gears with internal snap rings? snap ring grooves? This one is definitely newer than anything I ever built, has the oil cooling pump which was coming to favor as I got out of the garage.
Early on would wire the sliders in neutral and stand the case up in a budd wheel, then install the main and time the shafts. Made life interesting.
Another potential solution I have is I have another truck with a 15 speed mated to a Big Cam 400(the one under discussion is on a 3406) Id imagine theyd swap,would have to swap bell housings? input shaft??Not keen on this option because of course Id be downgrading or decommissioning my (little used) picker truck with the 400.
Hmm not all of my post got posted. Thanks truckshop for the great pics. Think Ill have a go at a teardown. Hopefully wont have to go past mainshaft. Whats the deal on the chisel between gears in pic 5?
A dumb question.If its endplay thats causing 3rd gear to jump out does that mean mainshaft gears are becoming disconnected from countershaft gears (unlikely?) or the sliding clutch is disengaging. Like I said this is likely a dumb question.
Transmissions should be direct swap regardless engines. Clutch will have a 2" input and the same configuration will be for either. May or will have to swap the clutch fork live shaft side and bell crank for the correct truck application. Will also depend on position if trans top cover will need be swapped for correct shifter location. The chisel is holding the one countershaft to the side to allow the install of the main, these transmissions are Timed, countershaft to countershaft, get it off one tooth on either and either will not assemble or will lock up tight.
Be aware though if your 8LL is like my 15, you will likely destroy the countershaft bearings trying to get them out. Its been a while since I last had a transmission apart but I believe the aux section needs to come off and the upper countershaft will need to come out in order to get the mainshaft out. Input shaft can stay. If your input shaft is sealed with a lip seal, (seems to be a rare thing though but they do exist) I would change that while you're there too.
I think the 8ll was debunked some time ago the seller told me it was an 8ll and that prompted my original post.later figured out it is a 15 speed that will not go into 5th.if that helps? Sure appreciate the posts to date,very educational.
There will be threaded dead holes in the rear section flange to use forcing screws {4" of ready rod with two nuts jammed} to remove the rear section once bolts are removed. And you need to access how much it will cost in repairs first. It's not hard to throw 2,500 in one and happens before you know it. If the front three gear sets are pitted and the hard surfacing is mostly gone, just find another box. You start replacing gears and main shaft and input shaft and a bearing kit plus rear synchronizer hub you will have a ton of money and time in it. Sometimes it's best to blindfold it so it won't see what's coming and shoot in the head and go get another box. And really if you don't have a few custom tools for working on Eaton's the job is twice as hard. And yes you will destroy the counter shaft rear bearing when removing the counter shaft. Truck Shop
You aren't kidding either. I did the main box on mine on the floor with nothing but a block of wood, snap ring pliers, a drift punch and a hammer. Brutal as all hell. Lost some blood from catching my hands in the gear teeth. Repeatedly.
Back on the case... The tranny is out. It is an RTO12515 15 speed.Cover is removed.Gears look excellent. The problems(to review) with operation are 1. no 5th(grinds a bit but no engagement). 2.Jumps out of 3rd on downhills. So far im observing 1.the fork for engaging 5th is very worn(maybe 1/2 thru) AND the 5th sliding clutch will not go fully into the gear. The groove where the fork sits is also worn wider than other clutch grooves.Something inside gear is stopping it from sliding far enough.. I surmise the fork is worn from years of drivers trying to engage the gear. 2.3rd seems normal,sliding clutch slides in and out etc. So Im guessing the mainshaft needs to come out,I need a sliding clutch and a fork for 5th. No idea what goes on with 3rd. Im looking for any advice here. A recon trans is $2180. What for instance might clutches forks etc run?What else can I check to better assess things prior to disassembly. Im not against disassembling the main section,doesnt seem too terribly complicated. Oil was good in trans,all aux functions work as they should no leaks anywhere etc. Dumb question can one replace say the 3rd gear on mainshaft even tho itll be meshing with the old gears on countershafts? 2nd dumb question. There is a pin that goes in/out on air actuation,in the shiftbar cover.It would appear to be designed to limit shifting somehow?How does this work?Ive downloaded the eaton manual so far I havent found that feature in there. Thx for all replies.
pin in the shift cover drops into a notch in the rail in neutral, allows your air spool valve to shift ranges only in neutral
Get the main out and disassembled, the issue of the gear and the not shifting will show itself pretty readily.
Throw that box on a pallet and send it to me, I love working on Fuller's. If I had ten bucks for every 15 spd I've worked on. Truck Shop
So... you're offering to fix this one for $10? If the shipping wasn't so much, I could keep you busy at those rates!
I don't know very much about this situation in a number of places, but assuming the rebuilt is like-new good, sounds like it might be a deal to me, considering the value of your time as well. And then other problems cropping up that you don't know about yet will (presumably) be fixed.
All wear on the shift fork likely comes from a driver using the shifter for an arm rest. There are some short cuts that can be done on some transmissions like swapping the front sliding clutch with the input shaft removed. Slide the main shaft back and even swap the front drive gear. That is just a patch deal. Yours is jumping out of third also and unless it has a broken detent spring likely needs a sliding clutch and possibly gear. Call where ever you can get parts from and price 5th gear, two sliding clutches, bearing and seal kit plus a rear synchronizer. That's a fair base parts needed list. What does a manual cost and what is three days of your life worth? $2180 with a warranty is probably a better deal. Then price a reman top and consider repairing your own.
I think I paid about $750 for the bearing/seal kit (Eaton kit but all the bearings were Link-Belt or SKF). 2 Eaton shift forks ran me about $350 and a Quality Gear input shaft was about $200. Just to give a guy a bit of an idea on costs. Prices are in Cannuck bucks.
That was strictly a one time limited offer only good for yesterday 12515's aren't worth much anymore so the price at 2180 is about right for one that's in good working order with a bearing kit installed. A used take out 800 to 1000. You can shoot through 1500 so fast make your head swim. I'm willing to bet the main shaft is shot it will need limiting washers and so on. To set up the main shaft you will have to order different blocking washers to set the co-axle clearance between gears on the main shaft. Not a big deal but has to be done right, set the clearance on the loose side of tolerance. You don't want the main shaft gears set tight on the older boxes it won't get enough lube and will gall the limiting washers. Just some stuff to think about. Who has this gear box for sale that your looking at? Truck Shop
Got the trans apart today. Guess what the mainshaft is twisted like a pretzel right where 5th gear sits.broken spacer there (or whatever that toothed washer is called) and key broken there too.i guess that explains it all.still thinking of getting the parts and fixing it. I get Some satisfaction from doing these things.i didnt realize there were magnetic plugs in bottom. Only fine material on them.the bearing on input shaft and the bearing on rear of countershaft are not tight in housing.not sloppy they could be tightened easily by center punching.is that acceptable I wonder?loctite etc.ive made a list of parts and it's under $600 including shaft.. The recon trans is at a dealer in van bc. Thx for replies so far.
're the setup if I put in the spacers that were there on the good sections would that suffice?
If remanning your own box, get a used service manual, set the clearances loose but close to spec, the bearing/ mainshaft kits should have a selection of limiting washers included to set it right. You will be well over the $2180 when done. Did they set a core value exchange? Most will not accept a stripped down box in core. While in it may as well overhaul and replace synchro kit in back section, change all the seal rings and replace the shift interlock valve on the side of the case.
Twisted main shaft is not that uncommon. That's why I was betting on a bad main shaft. The torque rating for gear boxes years ago was to low for a range of engines. Those came from factory behind 3408's, 8V92's and KTA's. The guy I work with had a COE Pete with a 3408 and he would only get about 150 to 200K out of one. He twisted the main shaft out of three that I recall. And you don't know where that trans came from really. Truck Shop
https://www.google.ca/search?dcr=0&...31k1j0i10k1j0i13i30k1j30i10k1.299.5BAWa3610m0 2nd or 3rd link on this list might help you out. I'm no transmission guru but I believe the RTO and RTX are the same transmission but with a different shift bar housing. I can't copy the link to it directly since my tablet just downloads the PDF when I click on it.
While I hear you all about going thru the whole trans and replacing stuff thats not where Im likely going to go. This trans likely wont see 10000 miles in its expected life,the range synchros etc work fine as is,trans runs quiet etc,Im just interested in solving the two gear issues which I blv the mainshaft will fix. I have the Eaton rebuild manual and will set up clearances as per. OR I might buy the reman,still thinking about it. Anyone have thoughts on the centerpunching of bores in case? Is it common to be able to push a bearing out of its bore? Im thinking theres less than 1 thou of clearance on each bore.Thx for replies theyre extremely helpful.
Never saw need to tighten the bores, always came out fairly easy with a drift and two pound to get it to move on the shaft.
What Im saying is that the 2 bores are a bit looser than that. I can pretty much push bearing by hand. Theyre not sloppy loose just not tight. Did the axial clearance thing with old parts just for practice really. I ended up with gaps between gears of around 40 thou where spec is 5 to 12. I think the grooves in mainshaft have worn wider thus increasing this gap. Sound right? Also my spacers are not in the parts listing for my RTO12515. Mine are 182 thou and part# 14749. The Eaton parts book calls for 14711 thru 14716 part #s, .249 to .274 thickness.My gears are the same part#s as in book .The shaft I have(twisted) is 318729. Book calls for s1341. I did find one for sale on ebay that said it was good for both,they sure look alike.Hopefully theyre same. Anyone have answers?
Woops the 14749 part is the externally toothed part the spacers are internally toothed(and are without numbers)All makes sense now. The spacers measure in the correct range. Also found an Eaton reference to the s1341 replacing318729 mainshaft so good there too I think.
I wouldn't worry to much about the case bores and don't steak them. If the back section is range shifting ok then don't worry about that either. The old Garlock lining used on the rear synchronizer hub in the back section was better material anyways than the new style replacement. Make sure and refill with 50wt motor oil and not 80-90. Truck Shop
Oil question? I have seen transmissions ran with mineral oil, mostly older owner operators, 50W gear oil and then 50W synthetic. One large company, about 15,000 trucks, ran 85-140 in everything. They did not seem to have any more Fuller transmission problems than anyone else. Now you say motor oil? I thought the gear oil had some other additives or properties to protect gear tooth wear.
The manual states 50 motor oil or equivalent weight mineral oil. The modern ones use synthetic 50 Fuller transmission oil that hardly ever needs to be changed. I think smelly gear oil interferes with synchros but probably not too much judging by how many are running it. Still I would stick with what they say. Another reason would be that it seems anything that has an oil pump has to use motor oil type oil. Such as ones with an external cooler. I used to know more about this but I have forgotten.
Thanks for the reply: The 85W-140 folks were not running pumps or coolers. For anyone that does not know do not mix mineral and other oil. It makes jello.
Main reason is cold weather the 80 wt is to thick and unnecessary anyway, more drag. The 50wt synthetic is a standard in gear boxes these days and all Eaton transmissions are basically high torque with a pump plus use the halo top tube for pressure fed spray to help oil the main shaft plus auxiliary drive gear. The Detroit DT12 automatic uses 75X90 synthetic 15 quarts. Now that said do not use synthetic in transmissions with brass parts it will very slowly deteriorate the brass. Such as an old pickup 4spd transmission-it will shift real good for a while. Let the clutch out on a cold 10* below zero start in neutral with 80-90 or 85-140 and it will damn near kill the engine. Truck Shop
That is interesting. A company here has off road equipment with reduction gears in the axle hubs. They run synthetic gear oil and change it every 2,000 hours. Oil out of those hubs looks like gold.
Gear oil and engine oil are on different scales. As far as I know engine oil stops at 60 and gear oil starts at 70. 80W gear oil is like 20 motor oil, 85W is not much different, 50 motor oil would be like 100 gear oil if there was such a thing, and 60 motor oil is like 140. We have an old tractor that takes straight 140 in one of the boxes, that stuff is like molasses even on a hot day.
We always ran mineral based in fullers in the 70's early 80's, when the aerodynes first hit the market can remember all the overheat failed boxes when the manufacturers went to 50wt. Fuller, Spicer even the generic GM and Ford Euro trannies went that way. Only oddball retarded leftover from the dark ages was Jeep. They used a 'Special' available only from Chrysler oil which originated with the older series boxes, Whale Oil but not labeled as such. Use anything else in those Chrysler/Jeep trannies and they would self destruct from lack of lube. Smelled like a trash dump.
Ordering parts today. A couple of questions arise. The Eaton parts book, on the mainshaft page,where it lists the key,says "must be used with matching washers". I wonder what that means? I was unable to find the 6504 roll pin that goes in mainshaft anywhere. Hoping the shaft Im getting (used) comes with one or maybe I can extract the one from my twisted shaft and reuse. Im not ordering any washers yet as the choices are many. Hoping the old ones get me close or I guess Ill measure the axial clearances and order the ones I need. Seeing as how the trans was working,with much higher clearances than spec, Im thinking a few thou above spec might be alright anyway?
The early key is triangular the later key is ob-long, more than likely the roll pin is in the used shaft if not get one from hardware store and cut to length. And again a slightly loose gear train on main shaft is better than a tight setup . Truck Shop
You were right t.s. the pin was in the shaft. Got the mainshaft assembled and my spacers were right! Got axial clearances in the 8 thou range. Moving on I'm now installing the ( new)15.5 inch eaton clutch. Using input shaft as alignment bar.got it in and torqued down then noticed the two friction plates or whatever they're called are not exactly in sync ie the fat parts with lining on them are not lined up they're maybe one tooth on the shaft different in orientation. I wonder if this is important?
Ceramic Button clutches need to have the buttons as close to parallel as possible, do not have to be exactly on top of one another but the closer the better, if seriously off center will chatter like all get out and possibly slip having the load off center to each other.
Glad to hear it's going together. The drive discs never match up perfectly to each other. Don't worry about it. I always install the clutch loaded in the transmission on 15.5 clutches. The only thing to line up doing it that way is the pilot, just bar the engine over and start the bolts through the inspection opening in the bell housing and torque to 55lbft. Truck Shop
Used to do it that way, as I accessed worn out input shafts I began installing the clutch first, just had to remember to rotate the worn out shafts to the clean/smooth side so could get them back out! Still have a few sitting in the drawer!
I just threw enough old input shafts in the scrap bin I could have given half the members here one for Xmas! I'm not real sure where I got all of them but I am fully stocked for alignment tools that's for sure. Glad to hear you're getting it buttoned up and hopefully it does the job for you.
Mainbox all together had to undo it a few times to check things but Im pretty sure its all ok. not really that complex a unit.After the first time the timing things a breeze. I had a block and tackle hanging down from rafters and a loop of 1/4 rope around middle sliding clutch,made it pretty easy. Annoyingly I ended up with a spare snapring I cannot account for. This caused no end of disassembling and checking.The ring is the same size as the one on the input shaft. 2.20 ID. Nothing else seems to take that size. As well it looks like its maybe never been used so may have been in with the parts I got from dealer.Sure hope I havent missed something and if I have Ive absolutely no idea what it might be.If someone does have a suggestion Im listening! The advice and suggestions and pics from this forum have really been a huge help. Many thanks.
Fine line is the first drive, not right it won't make a mile if good may sing a little but will last a good long time.
When assemble the top cover and shifting forks mechanism just remember to install the heavier spring of the three in the HIGH gear form rail detent. If not will eventually slip out of high and eat what you just replaced.
Funny thing the springs look alike. Ill review again to be sure Many thanks
The orange springs are standard the green springs are stiffer if that helps. Truck Shop
About to remount bell housing to trans. looks like a super thin gasket was used. Glued on real good too. i wonder what to do as I did not receive a gasket with my parts. make one or use some ultrablue?What is the accepted practice i wonder?
Get and use the OEM gasket. Truck Shop
Use no silicone on these Ever Unless you enjoy taking them apart
Install the input shaft bearing cover first. If installed second it can lock down the shaft. Replace the clutch shaft bushings in the bellhousing while you are there and check the shafts. The one on the right is universal but the left is normally supplied by the truck manufacturer and can be hard to find. Those bushings are available as two short ones for the outside of the hole or one long, with a grease fitting hole in the center, that go in the center of the hole. If the shaft is worn change the style of bushing so it runs on a different part of the shaft. It's good for the life of the next clutch. Be sure the ends of the shafts do not extend past the edge of the fork toward the throughout bearing.
Well I m back in business. Putting that baby back in without a trans jack,minimal help and no experience was a chore. Made a kind of tripod in cab to lift front,a floor jack and blocks under rear. Long 7/16 bolts to pull it in. Somehow it came up hard against I think the second friction plate.Mucked about with elevations and there was a kind of bang and she all slid together.One screwup was I didnt take sufficient care when installing cover,and broke the air valve shaft that goes into slave valve. Only discovered this on trial:no high range. Was able to weld shaft back together and it seems to work fine now. New clutch sure works nice. The old one was a jerky beast. What actually made me tackle the whole job now instead of much later was a screwup(another one)I made in adjusting the old clutch. Or rather not adjusting it. I broke a couple of teeth off the adjuster,decided it was frozen in place and went back to trucking. Got into a soft spot and all of a sudden Ive got miles of clutch pedal freeplay and am stuck in gear. I guess the broken off teeth left the adjuster not locked and when the pulling got heavy voila it self adjusted. Once i figured out what had happened I did try to readjust but next to impossible it seemed because I couldnt release clutch.Didnt spend too much time on it, by this time Id decided to pull the trans and deal with rotton clutch and the trans issues at same time. Glad I did. I think. Learned a few things which I always like.Thanks again for all the help and support.