found a JD 410-D backhoe that runs but has slow hydraulic's for $3500 . Should I bye or stay away?
Do you mean the 410 Diesel from the 70's (two loader bucket tilt cylinders) or the 410d from the 90's? Either could be a good deal if the rest is in good clean shape. Or they could be a money pit. What are you looking for? A weekends use of a machine or another hobby to keep an old machine running? Old backhoes aren't quite as hard to maintian as dozers or skidsteers, but they're a lot more complicated than similar tractors.
its from the seventies and a wekend use machine.
Overall that seems like a decent price with the limited info you've given. I'd say go for it if it checks out reasonable in other ways such as: Motor runs smooth, doesn't sound rough/missing. No abnormal smoke, or excessive blowby Motor oil is right - not milky, etc Coolant is right - not oily Drives forward and reverse with power - will load a front bucket, or at least spin the loaded tires in fwd and rev in the dirt. Tires are at least OK. Look ALL OVER for frame cracks, for cracks on the loader and all over on the back hoe arms. Transmission is OK in all gears. Run it for 30 minutes and get it up to temperature to make sure the working condition stays the same. Make sure the brakes work too. Take a mechanic who is familiar if unsure what to look for. The value of that machine 2000 miles west is about 6000-10000, assuming value in your local market is the same if it is working right, that leaves some room ($) to fix the hydraulic issues.
hey thanks I will take your advice and check it out real good.
Also check the condition of the cylinders, the seals leaking are cheap to fix if you can do the work yourself. But the rods are expensive to replace if they're scratched, gouged or pitted. I'm talking tens of dollars for seals vs hundreds for rods (x 11 rods?)
havent heard it run yet it has been sitting for a year . but the oil is good n black coolant lookes good. there isn't any brakes hopefully adding fluid and pumping them up will be ok for now. the rear tires are about half gone. 1 front will need a tube .
Well I bought it for 2500.00. Runs good just slow hydraulics but they have power not weak at all. Man I hope it is just a clogged strainer. Will get it home this saturday.
Congratulations! I think? I you haven't been following it, check out the "410 hydraulics dead" thread. You obviously have a different problem, but that goes through the possible causes and probably has what you need to check. My guess is yours isn't getting enough pressure from the charge pump, or possibly parts of your hyd pump are messed up? that's a far second WAG.
Congratulations also! At that price, I don't think you'd ever get hurt moneywise unless you don't know "when to say when" on un-forecast repairs. If you ever get uncomfortable with a potential repair you could part it out and come out even or ahead. I didn't make it in time to a complete, decent looking & described as not knowing if it ran 410 for $1400 that I still wish I would have gotten - oh well. On the slow hydraulics, define slow. It'd probably be easiest/most accurate with a video. Those old machines are not as hydraulically fast as the new ones (needless to say), and as someone else said here on HEF, the older Deere's need to have the RPM's up for faster (relatively speaking) hydraulic action.
This is from my early 310 service manual. This should help you bleed the brakes, not sure if you need this, but it may help.... If the transmission pump sump screen is clogged, it will most likely be from clutch friction plates that are worn out or the brake liners.... 1. Bleeding Air From The Brake System Remove rear floor plate above axle. Attach a clear plastic bleeder tube to a brake bleed screw (small fitting located on top of each axle shaft housing) and insert the tube in the transmission filler hole to catch the bled oil. Run the engine for approximately two minutes to allow the transmission lubricating system to fill brake valve reservoir (clutch engaged and engine at fast idle). NOTE: If it is not desirable fo run engine at this time, the brake valve reservoir may be filled by removing the filler plug on top of the valve. Unscrew bleed screw 3/4 turn, slowly depress brake pedal on brake being bled, and allow it to return slowly. Continue operating pedal until oil in tube is free of air bubbles. Never allow brake pedal to return sharply, permitting brake valve piston to release quickly, as damage to valve parts may occur before brakes are completely adjusted. NOTE: Brake valve reservoir must be refilled after each 15 strokes of brake pedal. With brake pedal depressed, close bleed screw securely. Remove bleeder tube and repeat bleeding operation on other brake.
thanks . I even got a parts and service manual thrown in the deal. I just hope it is an easy fix.
thanks . I even got a parts and service manual thrown in the deal. I just hope it is an easy fix.