Hi, I'm having trouble starting my Case 580c backhoe. I'm getting fuel to the injectors and smoke out the exhaust when cranking. Fuel is new and battery is fully charged. The tractor does start on ether. I pulled the injectors today and the tips don't look dirty/carbon build up. Obviously I can't see inside, but have a hard time believing all 4 are plugged up. Also if I do replace the injectors what is the part number. My Google search keeps finding 580ck injectors which don't seem to have the top return line nut.
The p# is stamped into the injector body.. just above where the “stem” reach’s the body.. You’ll probably need a wire wheel to clean it up..
If u do replace them, ur gonna need to buy the rubber grommets that go in the cap and return caps..
Thank you!
I don't believe injectors are your problem. Maybe try adjusting valves a lot cheaper and may work.
I would do a compression test and valve set first.
How long have you had this machine and when is the last time it actually ran.
If u wanna do some diagnostic work, check the timing..
I have a 400 psi diesel compression gage but have no way to plug into the injector port. 3 years. It ran back in December but very poorly. Ran good last spring. Is there a recommended tutorial or vid by chance? Thank you everyone for the help thus far!
Have the injectors tested since you have them out
Before going off the deep end maybe fresh fuel and purge the old crap completely out of the system, all the way to the injectors. A can of cetane booster added to it would help.
There probably is a video about checking the timing.. I’ve never looked.
Have you checked to see if the fuel shut-off cable is applying full stroke to the lever on the pump ?
Good point.. The lever should be resting on the stop screw..
Ordered a bench tester today Drained the tank and cleaned all the fuel lines a few weeks ago. Haven't tried cetane Thank you, I'll see what I can find. I have. In the past it has gotten stuck but I rebuilt the pump and it moves freely now.
The bench tester lines that come with it, DO NOT work with those injectors..
Seems to me you're putting the cart before the horse. I would not throw money away on injectors and waste my time changing them simply because of hard starting. If it smokes, there's fuel. If it runs good, its got fuel. I would do a compression test and valve set as suggested above. If compression is low, it will take an extended cranking period in order to build enough heat to actually ignite the diesel. Ether has a far lower ignition point than diesel fuel and that's why it'll start on ether without issue.
Thank you, good to know! I pulled off the valve cover today, all the intake valve clearances measured .012 +/-.003 and all the exhaust measured. 016 +/-.003. No brocken springs or stuck valves. Im trying to find a injector compression gauge adapter. .
Did you try to start it with the air cleaners removed ?
I did. Unfortunately no difference.
Black smoke or is it white while cranking ? If the compression is decent and starts with ether assist and runs decent. That indicates the injection pump has a problem. IMHO of course.
I believe it's black but will have to check after I get the injectors back in. Waiting on the compression gauge adapter. I'm starting to suspect the injection pump too. Thank you for yours and everyone's help!
So I finally got around to working on this thing today. Compression on all cylinders is between 310-320 psi. I pulled the pump and rotated the internal pump assy 180 degrees. Cranked with the injectors lines loose until I saw fuel. Unfortunately no start and no smoke. Did start on ether again but did not run as good as before. Plan to pull the pump again and turn it back. Plan to also strip the pump and verify the cam ring and weight basket is not backwards. Is it common or possible I have a air leak on the high pressure side? I know my duramax is super sensitive to air leaks. Also, the pumping chamber is not filling. I manually filled it by removing the throttle linkage cover. Fuel flow is strong at the inlet and metering valve is not stuck.
There’s a Dot on the end of the drive shaft.. There’s also a DOT down inside the pump.. The pump MUST GO ON DOT TO DOT.. If u plan on stripping the pump.. ur gonna need a gasket kit..especially the head seal(oring).. The kit # is 24371 (Stanadyne) If u wanna send me some pictures, if u have any questions on the wear, that’ll be ok. U can post them here or my email.. my screen name at aoldotcom…. in your personal mail server.. Good luck
Just because the mv isn’t stuck, it doesn’t mean it’s gonna pump.. The pumping plungers are what actually pumps the fuel.. the mv just turns it on and off.. When u strip it, make sure the pumping plungers are free..
Thank you!!! I'm getting fuel at the injectors so the plungers I suspect are working correctly. I am concerned the pump does not appear to be filling.
310 psi compression seams a little low. Whats the factory spec?
I pulled the pump off this morning. According to the dots, I had it right the first time. I also tore into the pump and wanted to confirm I have the cam ring oriented correctly? Also what should the plunger travel be? Currently it's at .038" I'm curious too. All the values were close together and seemed reasonable. Lastly, I installed a solid weight basket earlier this year and noticed the clocking of the weights is different than my original. I have a hard time believing it is my issue but figured I would bring it up.