Have a samsung 210 1994 and it is very lazy on 1 side i find it is not as bad going backwards as forwards (i think) the engine labours a lot when i track so i think the pump is good and its got lots of digging power. The tracks are not too bad on it. I have changed the oil in the drive housing and there is no damage to the gears in the housing. What do people think it could be and does it sound dear. I was wondering would it be a problem in the valve chest or something cheap to fix
The first thing I would do is perform time cycle test on the hydraulic system to verify what you are saying and that the motor is the only thing slow. Second stick a pressure gauge in and check pressure with track stalled. The most over looked component is the center swivel. The valve that sends oil from the top to the bottom. It is relatively inexpensive to rebuild and is very easy to rebuild, getting it out can sometimes be a bear.
we had a 312 cat that would almost do a 360 in 100'.... cat came out and looked... the front idler wheel bearings were gone. The pin had worn almost to nothing.... It was binding the front ilder wheel That helped but didn't totally fix it.... wrote it down several weeks with no response from the shop.... about a year later it wouldn't hardly move again.. Hydraulic oil instead of gear oil in the drive.... a seal was bad.... so it wasn't getting the right pressure to move the hoe
Doing a pressure test on the drive circuit doesn't always give you reliable information because a failure in center swivel as well as exessive internal motor leakage can give an inconclusive reading. If all other functions of machine work strong and proper, and visual inspection of undercarriage doesn't reveal problems with idlers or such, I would look at the drive. On weak drives, the first thing I would do is remove the case drain line at the motor and check the leakage free turning as well as stalled. If the case drain checks OK, I would pull the center swivel and check it out.
You may have a blown seal on the brake in that side. That would account for the labored engine sound as it tries to force the hydraulic motor to drive that track thorough the brake -- which is spring applied. This is not a difficult nor particularly costly fix, so long as nothing inside the brake is badly torn up. Might be a good idea to reseal the other side now too. Let us know how it turns out and good luck.
Found my problem i was wrong about the hub that the tract motor drives it is well and trully damaged beyond repair. Got a quote from the volvo dealer for one and its 16000 euros so not an option. Have to look around for a secondhand one from a breakers. Problem is the serial nomber plate is missing off both track motors. I am hoping that a daewoo of similar age fits (1994). Or else it will be off to the breakers yard for my one
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My Mitsubishi MXR35 has similar but less severe I think. One track motor has less torque (power to move the machine) What should I look for or check out?
it sounds like the brake spool in the block that bolts untop the hydraulic travel motor has the one spool cap end of the spool casing backed off. remove the guard off the inside of the frame to access the hyd motor, put a clean drain pan under the hyd motor, remove one end cap of the brake spool itself, watch for any check balls or springs which may be hiding behind, have a lead pencil with you (trick of the trade), when you remove the end cap of brake spool there is a pilot hole which will keep pouring out your hyd oil, jam the pencil in this hole to temporarily plug it, gently pull the brake spool out only able to go part way but just enough, the brake spool is a casing with spool capped off this over time will back off causing the brake to turn on when it should not. the cap generally has a hole, slide an allen key that closely fits thru grab the small diameter of the brake spool and reef the cap tightening it back up. put back together and repeat for the opposite end. you'll likely have to do the other track for it generally follows