I "think" I have a 94 JCB Sitemaster series 2 Backhoe. I can upload more pics if need be. Questions: 1: How do I tell what year the machine is? ID is 0438160, Vin is SLP214TCSE0438160. 2: I noticed while going up a pretty steep grade with a full load of rock it seemed a little gutless. Will I hear the turbo? How do I tell if my turbo is working properly? I am putting on 2 new filters inner/outer, they were pretty beat. 3: Manual, I have a service/parts manual, but would like the owners manual for this yr model. I downloaded one but think it is for the 3x 4: I ordered a hydraulic filter for the in tank filter, but when I removed the access plate Hydro fluid was oozing out, and it was basically level. I think I may have over filled? What level should it be at? -I also placed my hand in there and felt a metal tube, but there was not filter I could remove, or find a cap to remove to access the cylindrical filter?? Is it possible mine didn't have one in it, and when I put the new one in (pictured below) does it require a cap? How is it held in??
Hi As far as the hyd filter goes did you release the pressure in the tank first or just take the plate off as you should release cap pressure first. I guess your m/c has fuel tank one side hyd tank other in that case you undo the 100 mm headed bolts think 6 of them remove plate and there should be the filter looking at you just pull it out and put new one in cant remember if their is a spring on the top of the filter will have to look at parts manual. As far as lack of power make sure the fuel lift pump is clean the one under the turbo that's really difficult to get to hence why people don't clean the gauze out often so undo the the little flat headed screw from the top and remove the top section and lift out gauze remember not to loose the square section rubber ring and clean out pump as well I use a pump up sprayer with diesel in to wash the out and put back together or you could take pipes off and the four 10mm head bolts and do it on the bench but you might need a new gasket to the engine block .Also check that all the pipes are tight under the pipes going into the fuel pump on the engine are rubber seal only feed in and out of pump may be worth a look if the fuel system was clean if engine fuel system is all good you might need to look at is the trans slipping but money on the fuel system. As far as turbo is quick check pull off the air intake hose from the inlet side of turbo so as to get your hand in on the impeller and give it a spin and lift and see what movement you have you will have a small amount as it runs on a cushion of oil as to speak but excess means new or rebuild time (test whilst engine off though)
Awesome, all good info. I did bleed the hydraulic tank, I think it was a bit over filled and on a slope. I did not see any filter, cap, or spring, just a empty metal vertical tube. I see the filters have a rubber cap and a metal handle to pull it out. Did not see one. I think the trans may be slipping a tiny bit, I will be doing fluid and filter too. I will clean the fuel lift pump also, do you replace the gauze or just clean it? Sounds like the turbo is an easy check, I don't hear it "whine" but I would probably really notice no turbo right? Like horrible performanc I assume?? Thank you sir!
Also the turbo is very very rusted, any fix for that? High heat rattle can? And type f tranny fluid for when I do the trans right?
hope this helps .the trans oil should be a good auto trans oil or ATF the red stuff pull the oval plate with the two 13 mm headed bolts or 1/2 "" where you are and have a clen drain tray you should have about 2 1/2 to 3 gallons of oil out the idea of the clean tray is to see if any debris is in the oil the strainer is metal and can be washed out but fit a new cork gasket and change the spin on filter as well.The lift pump screen is a washable unit and refit the turbo if rusty would not worry unless its blowing exhaust fumes .Have you had this machine long as you could run through the tappets which might give you some extra performance also make sure you change the rear axle oils every 1000 hrs if on the brakes a lot.
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Wow...Very helpful JCBJeff, I see why you went with that screen name! Thank you, This is from my parts manual, and showing part no 814/00358 for the missing spring...cheapest I found online was 29.99 for a spring, its probably in the bottom of the tank or something. Thanks again! I'm sure I will have another question one day ha ha! I owe you a beer
Link didn't work, I am a new member, maybe that's why??
Your photo of the hydro filter looks different than the one I have in my parts manual, now I am confused on what filter, and how its retained.
yes the link for your filter look as if it did not load as there are 2 different types of filters in these m/c s the picture you have is correct when you put the filter in with the new sping we always wound the pull fire up the spring a turn or so as it all stays in place when go fishing again. To check the hyd oil once you sorted filter front loader down flat on floor and stretch back hoe out so open bucket dipper right out and boom down oil level should be in mid of glass eye.
On my 1994 210S, the trans oil call's for JCB's Special Trans Oil, and is 10W oil.
Ok, I do recall seeing that 10w is the spec, any clue on where I can get that in the usa? Maybe a tractor supply place? Brand name you used?
Anyone have a good link to a manual? Or know what operator/service manual is for a 430001 generation 214 4x4 Extenda hoe?
Hi All In the UK we used ATF in this year of m/c so a good auto trans oil is fine it was only about 10 years ago jcb started using 10 w oil and phased out the red stuff (worked for a JCB dealer for 18 years as an service engineer ) No harm will come and it is easier to get hold off too.
Thanks Jeff, didn't know that, wakedirt...I got mine at a JCB dealer.
So I did an oil/filter change, and changed the fuel/water separator, I am guessing I have lost prime? Does this have a manual lifter on the pump? I am guessing I would crack the return and pump the lifter? If there is one? Or do these remove air on their own?
I found this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2jCuvGZBA0 I am guessing it will get me on the right path. So basically manually prime until all air is out of filter bleed screw on top of filter housing, then prime the two ports on the injector pump 1 at a time, then pull off the 4 injector fittings (this is where I am confused) do I just loosen them or take them all the way off, then turn the motor over at full throttle, and how long do I turn the motor?? I do all this alone, so it can be a pain actually seeing if all the air is out.
There should be a primer lever on the lift pump. Engine has to be in the right position for it to work right. Just loosen the injector lines. You probably will only have to loosen a couple of them.
Got it! So I ran out in the rain, and cracked the filter vent and gave it about 10 pumps. -Then I did the same on the vent for the fuel pump vent plug. **Tightened them all up after the 10 pumps. -Cracked all four injectors, had them to where I could spin them by hand, cranked the motor with the throttle to the floor for 5 seconds. Tightened the injectors back up, and she fired right up. Purrs like a kitten. Tranny fluid/filter and hydraulic filter is next weekend. Then its onto the axle housings and hubs, and done! Thanks Terry, Chad
Your welcome Chad. Give me a call sometime.