I thought this forum is as good as any for this question. I am in the market for a new splitting maul. It is how I keep in shape because troubleshooting does not do it for me. Mainly for white oak and live oak which are pretty stringy to split. I once used a triangular shaped head and it seemed like it did not get stuck very much compared to the traditional one. I also like the idea of a steel handle because this tough wood seems to take a lot of odd bounces which are hard on the sides of the wood handle. I always used a power woodsplitter when I had to do lots of firewood for necessity's sake so I never got much experience with hand splitting. Now that I don't have to burn wood and am doing relatively little I would like to know what those experienced say about shapes and sizes of mauls. I like to get the exercise but I still want to be as efficient as possible, no fun taking 5 strokes to crack a tough round open.
I've used one with a steel handle before and would not recommend it. Until a couple years ago, the little bit of manual splitting i had done was with wedges or a rounded type maul. Hated the maul and only used the wedges when i had to. Friend of my Brother's brought one of these out while we were building a cook fire for a party. Didn't need to spilt anything, but he convinced me to try it out. I was very impressed with it in straight-ish white oak. I think most if not all the husky axes are rebranded hults bruks with a little less QA. I've been told it's better to go to a store where you can pick the best of the stock. I was gonna get one of these and a 26" axe until i picked up a literal pile of axes and hand tools from the 20's in very good condition. http://www.husqvarna.com/us/accessories/axes/splitting-maul/576926601/
I use one with a fiberglass handle and the head has a rib on either side to help pop the wood apart.
The first of the triangle shaped/steel handled mauls were Monster Maul. I saw them advertised, wanted one, but wasn't going to pay 39.99 + shipping to try it out. Mine was homemade. It was great for the nasty stuff. For oak I favor a heavy, long handled axe. Twist the handle a bit as it strikes. The inertia lands a bit off center of the split, and gives a prying action. Benefit two, is it never sticks. Willie
Hated mauls only used them with a wedge. I always used an axe for splitting and I can switch from the to lh when I get tired that part takes a little practice to do
What are you guys calling an axe? To me an axe is lightweight and narrow used for driving wedges and whacking brush. And a maul would be anything used for splitting wood. Maybe terminology is different.
I prefer a fallers axe. They come with a short handle so I put a longer straight one in. I also drill a hole through the head and put a nail through it and the handle. I do not like mauls, but use one occasionally! T
My preference is a long handle double bitted axe. The head might weigh 4.5 or 5 LBS. One edge is kept sharp for chopping, the other is used for splitting. Woods like Oak split well with a glancing lop sided blow. I strike with a bay over my back swing direct to where I'm aiming, then twist as I strike. The blade penetrates as inertia carries the center of gravity farther, It gives a prying effect in the split, and prevents sticking. A tire from a lawn tractor is a great aid in avoiding chasing it all over the yard.
You guys must have different wood from me because I am using a 6 lb now and it barely makes a dent in some of this oak no matter how fast I swing it. I was thinking 10 lb or more is what I need. Some of this stuff has a lot of "grain interlock" and comes apart kind of stringy. With the 6 lb I have to whack it several times even when it does split to get it completely apart. A fallers axe or double bit would either bounce or get hopelessly stuck....
If I hand split I use only an axe when the wood is froze. Works great when working slabs off the edge on big wood and eventually getting to the center. A splitting mall that is only 2" or so thick on the backside is my other go to. Plastic composite handles have been added to both. Easier on the hands and have not broke them with my less than perfect aim. Incidently a axe is capable of having as much striking force as a heavier mall. More speed generates more force. I often find a good axe better in tough wood especially when a bit of frost is involved.
. My favourite axe for splitting firewood for the last 40 winters is Hults Bruk 5 lb axe with a wooden 75 inch straight handle.Ive renewed the handle once. Wood is mostly beech and oak, from around 16 inch and down. The bottom block of the tree i sometimes have to use wedge and sledge
Here oak is either red or white. It splits cleanly. You can split a 4' diameter block to kindling with little effort. A small split of red oak you can use like a straw, and drink water through. Red oak looks pretty much the same, but you can't. Once oak was prized for hand split shakes. A roof of either red or white would last 100 years in the open with little shade. Elm was our tough wood to split. I'd use five wedges to split a big block cut 20" long. I used five, cause I didn't have six. Best to slice with a big chain saw to at least half. Willie
Michigan style axe head for me if your oak is dry you will have to work chunks off the edge .
I use two 5# rafting axes, (also called a "fallers" ax) one with a 30" handle and one with a homemade 60" handle. When it gets tough, I use a 10# wedge and an 8# single jack with an 18" handle. Tougher than that; I don't mess with it anymore.