Hello all, Wondering if anyone knows where to get stabilizer feet for my Ford New Holland backhoe? 1997 555E that currently has asphalt pads that are not flipable. Need feet for dirt/mud digging conditions. The normal routes to find these parts like Broken Tractor have nothing. Short of making my own ( time constraints) is there any companies that make after market parts like that?
Pricing them out, you may want to build your own
Take the pads off and leave the angle iron on ? Add another angle iron in the middle.
I looked at your image again and realized the angle irons need to be turned or the stabilizers will slide the way they are.
Ouch! Think I’m pulling pads off and bolting a home made plate to the botto.
Yeah ouch!!! 3/8 plate and angle iron to the rescue....
Some 3/8"x 2 1/2" angle iron pointed down could be bolted or welded once the pads are removed. That's what my Cat backhoe has. Rubber pads fit between the angles for street use.
Definitely going to do something like this so I can still use pads if needed.
I once had a John Deere 410 had smooth pads. They were awful! They'd slide around.
The flippable pads are a pain anyway. Mine kept flipping back to the street side until I bolted some short pieces of chain across them to keep them facing down. X3 on bolting angle iron on in place of the pads.
I still have my street pads on and it’s a PITA on anything other than pavement, of which I only have 125 ft. Everything else its gravel or woods.
1 PAD PAD 85804847 $560.69 3-7 business days 1 1 PLATE PLATE 83962871 $520.64 3-7 business days 1 You can get a flipable, or just mud. OUCH....Angle Iron is your friend!!!
The angle iron should be on the front and back of the pads instead of the sides so it better prevents the machine from being pulled backwards when digging. Turned 90 deg's. to what is shown above.
Just buying the angle iron is going to be an ouch, these days.
Find a local scrap yard and see if you can find some there. Brick and block lintels from building demolition or something similar would probably work well.
Metal Supermarket sells short pieces of steel. A fab. shop may too. Doesn't hurt to ask.
I have had good luck on ebay with cutoffs.
The dirt side of the flip pads are pretty thick and aggressive. Even those can be overcome by the hoe.
Your pin needs grease. Nice shed !
I haven't done the research but if the parts diagrams posted are correct, the offroad pad is the same as far back as the 555A/655A and I believe the 555. That leaves you with a lot of bandwidth when searching for them. Start looking for a salvage yard with a 555, 555A, 655A, 555B, 555C, 655C, 555D, or 655D. Otherwise it's remove the rubber blocks from your pads and convert them to dirt, but it's going to be hard to find replacement street pads IMO.
I did not know what the reason they flipped for. Have I just preached some level of honesty that borders on stupidity?
It would help if Jayroget posted a photo of his stabilizer. There are 18 variations of them in the parts book.
T&H Salvage in Pavo, Ga has a few burnouts in the yard. I don't know if they ship or not but might be worth a call to see if they would sell and ship the dirt pads off of one. 229-859-2643
I always wondered why my hoe wouldn't stay put. Just the other day I was thinking, man , I need to chain the front down I guess. I'll be interested to see how it works with the dirt side down.
Big difference. It also depends on how you're digging hard ground. Pulling with the stick stretched out will want to pull the machine where using the bucket will give the most digging force without wanting to pull the machine.
I've owned 6 backhoes. Oldest was 30 years old when I bought it. Owners manual said never dig with the bucket, always point teeth in the direction of dig & use the dipper hydraulics to push the teeth into the ground. Latest manual points out that most digging force is curling the bucket. Teeth are an expendable wear item, use bucket curl to break up hard soil.
On the Case there are pins to keep them in position.
That's really odd. The conditions dictate the best way to dig.
I believe soft sandy soil the technique of making an arc with the dipper, bucket teeth pointed straight ahead is fastest way to dig. In rocky or hard soil there is more power in the bucket curl than the dipper. Tractors have been very different also. 1971? JD410 didn't have sufficient power in the hoe to jossel the tractor around except to slide the bucket & stabilizers toward the hole. 43 years newer Case will easily lift front of the tractor off the ground with its break out force, despite being a heavier tractor. It also has a power boost button to raise hydraulic pressure briefly. Can't think when I'd want that feature, good way to break something.
My NH has holes, but the pins are not present.
I had a local machine shop (guy I know) make up some dirt pads. I’ll get a pic soon.
I think any backhoe has more power in bucket curl than dipper crowd. Manufacturers more worried about breakage tell you to dig with the dipper. The truth is uprooting rocks, shale (soft) ledge, tree roots, and very impacted clay soils, there is more power in bucket curl. Case these days builds a very robust hoe. They don't fear breakage in breakout. Most common breakage in a Case backhoe is latching the over center position of the hoe. I have always used a stabilizer to latch it. This is a gentle process. Others pop it up, reverse the lever at EXACTLY the perfect time, click it to latch. If you are 1/10 second too late reversing the valve, it is violent latching. I don't loan my hoe, but my adult sons use it. Each is convinced they are so skilled they can do it the hard way. 38 year old son did it despite being told to not attempt it. Slammed so hard it shattered a glass below the windshield 5 feet away. He said: "I didn't do it on purpose!" I responded: "But you had been told it'd be destructive!"
Bucket force on my backhoe is approx. 4000lbs. greater than the stick force. I have the linkage set for maximum curl which reduces the digging force some but it still digs what I need. The stick extended and using the bucket under a frozen ledge is what ripped the top swing mount right off and bent the lower 1 1/2" thick mounting plate. Shouldn't really have broke but a very poorly placed grease fitting is where the crack started. I saw another member with the same backhoe and sure enough it was cracked at the grease fitting too. I warned him to repair it before catastrophic failure occurred. It's a really good thing I'm a qualified welder. Having to hire a welder with a truck would have cost several thousand $$$$$ I'm sure.
Mine are 1" 1010 steel pin stock, 2 holes drilled through each for R keeper pins. One side are pavement pads made of many layers of thick belting material. Other side are very agressive for digging into soil. I often use pavement side even not on pavement, not such big holes to patch.
Don't grease that pin. It's in dirt & gravel a lot, doesn't see much wear at all. It'll get nasty sticking the gravel in the grease. Forms an abrasive paste.
Could use dry graphite spray on the pins so they don't get seized. It won't attract dirt.
I actually removed the street pads to save for future use and had dirt pads made. They work well.
Nice machine! Cant believe it still has the rotating light on the roof. Mine is long gone! I made the identical pads for the backhoe on my compact tractor.
When you have to work on pavement there are a couple solutions: A. Make up a three layer pad of 18" long 2X6 planks. Top layer are spaced to hold your dirt pad. B. An old truck tire with the wheel still in it could have steel welded to it to fit your dirt pad. I used to have an old one made for a different purpose, but it worked great. I find it's rare to put both stabilizers on pavement at one time.
That is a good idea!
I have a HDPE or whatever 24”x24”x1” thick piece of plastic that I think is for crane pads, I found on the side of the highway, with a rope handle. I took my street pads off last year as it was doing more damage in my lawn, than dirt pads. Made my own dirt pads.