I’m wanting to put new seals on the steering cylinders of my 580se . I got the two lock rings out and the fitting loosened to relieve pressure, but the darn rod won’t come out. It’s the same time n both sides, maybe one of the seals on the gland nut is getting hung up on the slot for the lock ring or something. Or I’m doing something wrong , the instructions in the service manual says “pull the piston Rod straight out.”. Maybe I need to put a yoke on the end and hammer on that. The cylinder end looks un-damaged and round. Do these get stuck sometimes or just tight? I don’t want to break anything.
try removing both hoses, on each cylinder GL or loose hose nut, you need to get pressure off
Ok thanks. , I left it for today, wanted to check with the brain trust first ! Tomorrow will give it another go.
It appears in the photo that the rod is still attached to the spindle. Yes ? No ?
I disconnected the rod by unscrewing from the ball joint. After unsuccessfully trying to hammer the ball joint up and out of of the spindle , I decided to do it this way.
Did you get the rod out of the barrel ? I have had them stuck so bad that I put a chain on them to pull them out. To remove a ball joint place a hydraulic jack under it with a lot of up pressure on it. Then hit the spindle with a two pound hammer and it will pop out. It has never failed to work for me.
This morning I backed off both hydraulic lines but it made no difference. I suspect it’s a case like you had and I’ll have to attach a chain and devise something to pull them out. Maybe a leverage bar or a tractor !. Thanks for the comment on the ball joint removal, for some reason I thought that trick wouldn’t work because the holding piece is flat plate steel vs smaller cast pieces as on automobiles, so just use a bigger hammer and hit harder ? At this point I don’t need to remove the ball joints but if they go bad (they are actually pretty loose) I’ll know how to get them out. .
The ball joint are so cheap I just changed them anyway when I did my seals and yes they were a bitch to get out. Used the ball joint as an anchor and used a porta power to power them out. Hooked it up to my truck. Loved the new joints for the steering. Oh so much better.
Looks like that cylinder is pretty cheap to replace. https://www.amazon.com/All-States-P...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583451676611333&psc=1
Porta power ! Holy cow , I hope they aren’t that tough to get back in !
Rods can be difficult to pull out. You're pulling against a vacuum. Removing both hoses completely helps relief the suction faster than just loosening them. Putting them back in you just have to get them in enough so the gland nut/end cap can be installed.
The inner snap ring groove often creates a small ridge due to the piston slamming into it at full steering lock. Sometimes, to allow the piston to pass, the ridge needs to be removed by using a die grinder or dremel - without damaging the chrome rod. HeavyEquipmentForums
I don’t think I had any oil pressure restricting me, oil was flowing out both ports. The ridge build up behind the inner snap ring scenario, if it happened to others it probably happened to me. Tomorrow I’ll have a look and see what methods I have for grinding back the ridge next to the rod. I have a dremmel and a 1/8” side grinder but not sure if the rod will allow me to get in close. Also have a small air die grinder , just have to see what’ll work. Thanks everyone.
Sure enough, it was as you said . I used one of these curved files to slowly work down the ridge of metal that built up on the outside of the inner snap-ring groove. There may have been one high spot that I missed with the file because the piston seems to have picked up a scratch on the way out.