What is the best way to remove the cylinders?
Normally, I raise the boom up and install the boom stop in the side I am not working on. Then I crack the lines on the cylinder I am working on and remove the top pin. I unscrew the quild and pull the rod out. I leave the cylinder in the machine to rebuild them.
Roger that seems pretty straight forward, just power washed the T190 and noticed a small hydraulic leak. Its at what looks like a quick release fitting or something its the hose that goes between hyd filter and cooler. It is leaking from where this hose connects to filter housing. What type of connection is this? How to correct?
They are made by areoequip, I don't know what the connection style is really called. There is a special fork that slides into it and pops it apart, some come apart real easy, others are a bitch. I'm pretty sure you can get the tools from grainger. I had a hose blow once and didn't have it stock.I went to a parker store, the guy knew what it was, but just laugh since parker can't match it. There are seal kits available for those form bobcat.
Seal kits for the hose fitting? Its not leaking extreme just a steady drip regardless is machine is running or not, can you remember what the tool is called to remove?
should be a #10 removal tool. looks like a flat, (1/8" thick?) 2 prong fork about 6" long. seal kit has an oring, b/u washer, and ring. if you are gonna try this, get 2 kits, remove the cooler it's much easier to work on once it's off the machine. (i've been wrenching in dealerships for over 25 years, these are some of the most aggravating orings i've ever messed with.) if the hose connection is worn,or loose, it'll still leak
I know this is an old thread, but I watched a bunch of videos, and thought this would be easy. It was easy, until I started extracting the rod, when I realized there was not enough room…. See attached picture. I saw videos where the top of the rod passes through the lift arm, but I don’t have a hole…. Am I completely hosed? Is the only way to get the rod out to pull the bottom pin as well? Any help would be appreciated!!!
You were supposed to only put the safety arm down on the side you are not working on.
I am not sure I am following you. I am working on the right side of the machine. Before I started tear down I raised the arms all of the way up and then placed the orange steel thing (the bit I think you are calling the safety arm) on the cylinder on the left hand side, then lowered the arms down till it hit that orange steel thing, so now the weight of the arms are fully supported by that orange thing. That is the safety arm right? If so I do have that installed on the side I am not working on. Please advise. Appreciate the help. Sorry if I am missing something simple…
I guess I need a full side picture of whole machine. If safe arm is not locked in, you should be able to lower cylinder rod under lift arm and pull out. I only know what I have worked on. Think the last 190, I put the quick attach on my welding table flat and pulled out that way.
This is the side I am NOT working on
This is the side I am working on.
To be clear, I am trying to replace the seals on the cylinder, while not taking the whole cylinder out off the machine. I saw a bunch of videos where they just extract the rod out of the cylinder in place. I have it all apart, and loose, but the rod keeps hitting the lift arm before the piston is clear of the cylinder so I can get it out.
Turn the Part of the Rod, where the Pin from the Boon goes through, and push it up further in the Boom. If you have the Glan Nut off you should be able to clear the cylinder barrel and take it out. You might have to remove both Hoses from the cylinder otherwise you working against a vacuum. If this still not clears the cylinder, you might have to use a other machine or fork lift and lift the boom further up.
the rod should come out with the boom fully up and secured, theres also a hole in the bottom of the boom weldments
I guess im missing something why not crank machine suck rod in far enough to clear, let it down, extend it out, remove head and rod and reseal, might have to loosen the raise line because of suction like CB said, wam bam thank ya mam.
You do not need to crank the machine, just loosen all hoses on the cylinder and you can move the rod how ever you need to. If you crank the machine, nothing good will happen from that.
He can not secure it, if he has no second machine or fork lift, the LASD (Boom Stop) is not long enough.
I guess I’m still confused. Like has already been said. Turn rod eye sideways and lift up into the hollow of the boom arm. May have to lift up with second machine but I’ve never had to. It does help if both lines are loose.