Someone know how to troubleshoot this? I have checked power and ground at the tach plug, good, but the third wire not sure but schematic says it goes to the key switch I think, should this be hot then? Just got this tractor and never ever seen so many loose, disconnected, and broken wires all over. The wire to the alt. was broken so fixed that and now have continuity to the tach. The alt. light on the inst. panel has no power, bulb is good, I read here that needs to be working.. any help is appreciated, thanks
Sorry, it is a 91 580K Case
Alt. seems to keep the batt. charged but don't know how. Have used it digging stumps with cab heater going 4-6 times for about as many hours each time, cranked quite a while in short efforts, I now plug it in, when cold weather here too, and batt. shows 12.8- 13.2 and does not rise when meter checked while running, at different RPMs. Tach still does not work, or hr meter. Could it be a bad regulator that kicks in enough to charge?
Need to see a schenatic to logically figure out your problem. Plenty of people on this forum that can figure it out if correct schematic is available. Simon C
Thank you, Weird but tru upon working the machine today the tach suddenly started working. . Checked the voltage at the batt. before starting and then after started and it was the same 12.6 .. so I think the alternator must be on the blink..
When the tach started working, I bet the battery was close to 14V. The alternator has to be working for the tach to work. Most often it's the connections to the alternator, rather than a failed alternator, but easy enough to check if you identify the alternator brand and model.
Been a long day but just went out to confirm it charging or not. So checked voltage and it was 13.4. Then started the motor and at first the tack didn’t work and then it kicked in. Checked voltage at the battery again and it was 14.7. As I said before there are a lot of broken or disconnected wires. There is a three prong connector underneath on the right side that is disconnected. Cleaned it and connected it, but it didn’t seem to fix anything so disconnected it again in case there was some kind of short.. Close to the filter under there.
Your alternator seems to conflict with the schematic as you have a yellow wire in the picture, cant see if it is striped. The schematic is showing another yellow wire with red stripe that you do not have unless it was cut further back and new colours attached. Schematic showed the tach feed wire as being yellow/red. Could there be a change up in serial numbers for your system. See this is a Wilson Reman alternator. Has the yellow push on connector at bottom of alternator been squeezed a litlle to tighten on connector. Set a good meter on AC not DC and hook the red lead on the large red cable that charges the battery. Hook the black lead to the red post of the battery, Start unit and rev motor some with fans and lights on. If the AC current is above 0.5 volts you will know that the diodes are having a hard time to convert the AC charge into DC for charging the battery. It is a good indicator of diode bridge condition. Hopefully the connector at the tach has tight connections. Hope you figure it out. Simon c
You may have an intermittent connection at one or more terminals where the engine harness connects to the cab harness.
Thanks guys, When I first started to investigate this I found the yellow red wire at the alternator was disconnected and then later noticing the wire looked funny, I found that the wire had burnt off inside 6 inches just before the harness. So I soldered an extension yellow wire and crimp on an end to attach. so there must be a bad short somewhere. Worked it for several hours on Thursday and the tech/our meter were working. Will do that diode test and look for that cab connection when I get time. On a separate issue, the brakes work good when I fill the master cylinder, but it drains out seemingly on the floor underneath the brake pedal in a few hours. Working on some hilly terrain and challenging sometimes without brakes. Any ideas on what it takes to fix this?
Although you found one section of the Y/R wire damaged it could quite possibly be damaged somewhere else in the harness. Eliminating it by running a jumper around it may be another thing you could try if the problem persists.
update finally here, Simon I did do that test like you said but are you sure on the directions on that? I used the AC setting and connected the black to the red on the alternator and then the red to the batt. positive post but that is the same wire ?? got a 0.1 and then 0.. The tach does work now anyways but won't kick in after starting until I rev the engine to 1500 rpms or more, then works good. I did find some useful info here on the brakes so thanks to all who take the time to help here. I see kits for the master cyld. are $25 on up.. Any difference in quality I wonder? Had the main hyd. cyld. on the hoe spring a leak at the base today. Got welders coming out this week to work on it.. advised me they can weld it on the machine if I could drain the oil and disconnect the lines.. They suggested drilling a hole in the bottom to drain the fluid and I got it done without trouble. Has anyone done that to drain a cyld. ? The cyld. had been welded before. I think it is mainly caused from putting the boom in and out of the cradle, shock loads the cyld. because the boom won't come up over center by itself to reverse the throw of the control to lock. Bounces bad so use the extend to push it up and to lower it but still is sometimes jerky.
Learned a nice trick from Willy B on here to use a stabilizer to put into transport mode. Depending on where I am and what mood I’m in, do I utilize it. Lol Yes, I have heard of drilling a hole in cylinder to drain for welding, not sure I agree with it, I wouldn’t do it. I have welded quite a few hydraulic cylinders and some are just going to crack again, no matter what. Really depends on where the crack is and how many times I feel like welding it. There’s a right way to do it and a half ass way to do it and one involves putting it on a bench.
Yes DGB you hook up the red lead on the positive of the alternator with the engine revving about 1500 RPM, with the fan and lights turned on. Then hook the black lead on the same wire at the batteries positive post, yes you are correct, the same cable. Meter needs to be on AC volts not DC Volts. It measures how much AC current is leaking through the diodes and getting to the battery. If your meter has an AC millivolt setting anything less than 500mv is acceptable or 0.5 VAC on a higher meter setting. If your reading was 0.1 that means 100 millivolts were leaking. Hope that helps
pretty cool, Thanks
Welding went good, Only had my Small snapping pliers, but was good enough to get that big pin loose. Raising the cylinder helped. The first hole attempt was into the base, so that’s why there are two holes
Just an FYI, on a Case hoe if you are using the right procedure the boom should come up and over center and lock without any undue bouncing, shock loading etc. No need to use the extend-a-hoe or an outrigger either. Watch someone who has a lot of hours running a Case and they’ll lock it in smooth as can be, just takes practice.
I know the book says that, but the boom does not seem to come up over center high enough. And then to release it once it goes over center it Falls and makes a big bounce. So I have been turning it to the side and extend the boom to lower it easy and pick it up. Will keep that in mind though. Thank you.
To get it to go over center, you have to pull the boom lever back then the second it reaches the top push the lever forward. It seems counterintuitive but thats how it works. If it won’t go over center you may need more throttle to get it moving faster, or try it with the tractor pointed down hill. It takes practice to do it smoothly and to know how much throttle to use, which changes depending on if you are flat or on a hill, and how heavy of a bucket you have on.
Also to release it, after it goes over center push the lever forward and let it fall for a split second, then slowly ease up on the lever. By doing this you can cushion the fall after it unlatches, again you need to have the throttle set right.
If you have the extend option, I don’t know why you wouldn’t want to use it? It makes for a smooth raise and lower. I am quite sure the shock load to the cylinder by “going by the book” caused the fracture to the lower cap of the cylinder and it likely damaged other things. The timing you speak of and the guess work just doesn’t add up to the risk of substantial repair. The boom extend pedal, which is next to the cradle release is a little tricky because I have to run the extend with my left foot sometimes and while holding down the release lever with my right foot while operating the control lever to lower it. Even on flat ground, I can extend the boom enough to raise it, and then move the control forward because the boom is then over center, and then it locks into place. To lower it, I move the lever forward enough to kick down the release, extend the bucket as close to the ground as I can get it and then pull back on the control easy. Not necessarily in that order. Also always lower the stabilizers just until they meet the ground. It is the only way I will do this from now on but I respect your opinion. Thanks, Dan.
I respect your opinion, but I’m quite sure the shock load to the lower cap of the cylinder broke it, and probably damaged other things. if you have the extend option, I don’t know why you wouldn’t want to use it? It makes for a smooth raise and lower of the boom. The timing you speak of, and the guesswork just doesn’t add up to the risk of substantial repair. Even on flat ground I can extend the boom enough to bring it over center and then move the control forward gently and lock it into place. To lower it, extend the boom and bucket, move the control forward enough to kick the release and then gently pull back on the control to move it over center and it only falls a short distance. It is the only way I will do this from now on. Thanks, Dan
Didn’t think my first post went through, lol To me, this method is much safer and reliable.
Do as you wish, it is your machine. But I promise you an experienced operator can lock and unlock the boom with zero shock load. It is smooth as silk when done correctly...
I have operated equipment for most of my adult life. Everything from 50 ton cranes to dozers, graders, loaders, but only older tractor backhoe's… and the one thing that is Paramount is smoothness of operation, especially among work crews. This system by case is the only time I have seen where the same operation of a hydraulic lever can, and will produce opposite reactions from a hydraulic cylinder.. ridiculous if you ask me.
Sure, only been like this with Case for 20 years. Not hard if you know to operate it. Certainly not hurting nothing other than rattling windows if you do it wrong and if you do it really wrong you shouldn’t be in the seat. After doing it 20 times you can do it easily and smoothly.