My TB 135 restoration project is finally winding down I think if I can get past these last two major issues. Background: This has fire damage that destroyed the wiring harness, hydraulic hoses, engine plastics ...basically all engine compartment stuff burned up. I have replaced all and engine is running good. For the first time, I cranked it up after hooking up the hydraulic pump and so pump is pumping but leaking.....more importantly for now, the Right hand controller doesn't move the boom or anything. I checked the both lock lever switches and both check ok with continuity check. The left controller works fine minus the when I press the auxiliary hydraulics ..the thumb attachment doesn't move? What could be causing the right hand controller to not function? followed by the left hand auxiliary?
Good day HC Looks like you are making good work, each of those levers have six connections, four of which sit directly below the plungers the remaining two are servo feed notrmally from a solenoid valve (Control lock out) the other connects to the drain line. Suggest you check these out first. Often those remote control levers have the ports marked on the underside 1-2-3-4- T & P it is P that should have servo pressure. If you need a diagram we can try to help. Kind regards Uffex
This may help Kind regards Uffex
Uffex, Thanks so much ....yes, I had to replace all of them and remember seeing the numbers for each. I will trace the two and see what I find at the origin especially to see if the feed line is getting hydraulic fluid.
I did more troubleshooting tonight to no avail. I checked out the hydraulic pump to see if all ports were pumping oil and one doesn't...can't figure out why not. As soon as I close the left lock lever, i immediately see oil coming out two of the bottom ports but the back 3rd port there is nothing and that is the one that feeds the auxiliary solenoid valve and the lock lever. If I can figure out what is causing no pressure there, I may have solved this problem. I have included the hydraulic schematic and a pic of the pump with an arrow pointing to the back line with no pressure.
Attached is the hydraulic schematic diagram. I cannot figure out why the right controller and associated hydraulics won't work ....need some help diagnosing this problem.
Good day HC Our hydraulic schematic is of the 153 your post is not so good resolution, we have cleaned up the diagram we have and suggest the following - test the servo pressure should be 500 p.s.i. when you operate the control lock out you should be able to feel a movement, according to our information the servo pressure also goes to the Main control Valve it could be leaking away in that direction please begin check the servo pressure. If you can scan the schematic and mail it to me we can see what the difference. Kind regards Uffex
Good morning Uffex, I will go to Office Depot today and try to get a good scan and send you. Send me your email address please or send me your physical address and I will mail to you both the electrical and hydraulic diagrams. I tested the lock out switch for both sides and they have continuity; however, when I close the left controller lock lever whatever solenoid valve that controls the left side opens and allows fluid to flow ....nothing happens when the right controller lock lever. Not sure what electrical connection controls that pump valve that has no pressure that supplies the auxiliary Solenoid valve and controls the right Pilot valve.
Good day HC This appears that there may be a wrong connection to the RH control or the feed pressure is draining although if that was the case the left side would not work either, send the diagrams and we can try to sort the problem out. We have parts books but not for the 135 some times these can also help. Kind regards uffex
I think that third hose is high speed travel. Turn on rabbit and it should pressurize.
Once I return tomorrow I will try that. I just scanned clean copies of the hydraulic and electrical schematics that I am going to attach.
Hello Uffex, I have scanned clean copies now straight from the book. Back at the very beginning when i was trying to solve the stop solenoid problem, there were two connectors that didn't appear to hook to anything so I plugged 2 3amp diodes into those two. Every time I turned the light switch a 20 amp fuse would blow....I then determined that they must be the tail light wiring connectors. However, in tracing the wiring diagram color scheme only one of those (Red with Blue Stripe and the Black wire connect to the tail light harness); I have no idea where the other connector hooks too (Blue with Red stripe and Black wire). I call myself tracing the wiring diagram for that particular wire which happens to be at the rear of the machine along with the tail light wiring harness and the decel motor connector. I think I will try plugging back in a 3 amp Diode and see if that makes any difference. Now that I remember, when I plugged in 2 of them, ONLY one of them blew a fuse so that other may solve the problem or another problem....thoughts?
Heymccall! You were exactly correct!!! I don't understand that....I have been pulling my hair out trying to solve this problem and all I had to do was push that rabbit button and it pressurized! Is that normally the way that works? If all is working properly, only the left side hydraulics work until you push the rabbit button? Once I push it where the rabbit light goes out, then only the left side works again. Next question is how and what does the Travel Lock do and how do I operate it.....I realize that when I push the rabbit button it pressurizes the travel lock feature which also pressurizes the entire right controller....but what makes the Travel Lock engage and disengage?
You're all kinds of confused. That hose that pressurized with "rabbit" goes to the swivel joint and off to the final drives. It goes nowhere else, ever. Just changed a failed one on Thursday on my TB53FR. Swore the sticker on it was "PA".
I have replaced all hoses and hooked up according to the diagram....that 3rd hose in question ("PA" actually attaches to a solenoid valve "46" which powers the "Travel Lock" and feeds the Right Controller. Once I pushed the rabbit button as you suggested, it powered that entire right side....that is why I said I didn't understand it because o Rabbit off ..right side is dead again. In attaching this diagram again and reading your message again....I just realized that I have 44 PA and 46 PB1 switched....Thanks ....that will solve the problem of both being charged at the same time!!!
HeyMccall, again you were exactly correct....I have those three hoses mixed up!!! Dat Gummit....when you said the 46 always goes to the swivel joint and in reattaching the drawing I saw my grave error.....I surely read the pic wrong ....the orientation of my hoses are 90 degrees off from the drawing which in turn threw off my hookup....got it and will fix. Now once I correct the error, my next question is what controls the Travel Lock engage and disengagement? Line 49 (H1) feeding directly from the Solenoid Valve to the Travel Lock lever which also feeds the Right Controller.....I don't understand what makes the Travel Lock lever move and it's purpose.
I need some more assistance. I haven't driven my project out the stall yet; however, hoping to this weekend but I have a nasty hydraulic leak on the pump. I just replaced the O'rings for each pump point where the pipes come out the pump to hook to the hoses. The leaking appears to be coming from between the pumps themselves ...see attached drawing. What I need to know, is there a seal in between each of the components and if so, can I just remove the component without removing the entire pump and them tear that down and put whatever I need to inside to stop the leaking. NOTE: This pump went thru the fire so all the O'rings I just replaced had dry rotted. If I can remove these components, what else will I encounter that may fall apart that I really need to pay attention too?