I Have a 1978 TD7E with the 6 way blade. I purchased cylinder seal kits for the 5 cylinders. I am starting with the worst leak which angles the blade. I am unable to get the end cap to turn.. Have a 3 foot pipe wrench with a 2 foot cheater pipe. I tapped on it with a 2 lb hammer and also tried to get some liquid bolt buster in the opening. I also used a chisel in the cut on the cap and used the 2 lb hammer, but will not move. I also heated it some, but did not want to melt any of the old seals inside. Any other suggestions to get the end cap off. I have left it attached for now as it is easier to try to remove while attached. When I remove it I will have to cut the bolts holding the pins as they have never been removed. Per the previous owner, at 4000 hours the seals have not been changed since the factory. Thanks.
I have a TD7G, and no experience with these particular cylinders. Mine need a special spanner. When it's my turn I'll have to buy or make a spanner. I have had cylinders that won't budge. A Case backhoe I once did the boom cylinder I found to have red locktite. Without heat red locktite won't move. I used a large propane torch, and an infrared heat thermometer. If I recall it needed about 400 degrees F to free it. Somebody else will have a better way. I used a 5' spanner with 2-1/2" rigid conduit handle, and slid a bar inside it designed to pry out railroad ties. I was out 8' on the end with North of 200 LBS while my son heated and tested. All told it was a 9 hour job to repack the cylinder. Two years later I had an identical cylinder done professionally. It took three hours, and $700.00.
Put a good load on the wrench and give the end of the gland a slight tap being careful not to tap it.. It may take a few good bounces with 5-6 ft of pipe.
Or if you have the resources put the pipe wrench on it and use an over head crane to give it a pull
In the past I have welded a piece of steel to the cap then hit it with a 16# sledge. Once it is loose enough to turn put an adjustable wrench on the piece of iron and turn. The scrap would be something like a 2"x2" solid somewhere about length of cap. Tried hoist never had any luck with it. What helps a lot is a solid place to mount cylinder. I would put rod end in press to hold cylinder stable to hit scrap iron with sledge.
Weld up a wrench to fit the gland, tie it to the cylinder with ratchet straps if needed, block under the cylinder with a big solid chunk of wood, use heat if there's any suspicion of locktite and peen it like this: HeavyEquipmentForums
Yair . . . Delmer Is right on the money with the link to that thread. This method works like a dream and I believe is a carryover technique from the days of steam. Hits many times lightly seem to work best in my experience. Cheers.
Can you post a picture? Make sure there are no gouges or dents on the tube.
And make sure there's no set screws hidden under the gunk.
Cylinder cap removal Thanks to all for the advice. I am going to buy a medium ball peen and try that technique. There are no set screws. No gouges or dents in the tube. I was afraid of heating too much and egg shape the cap with the pipe wrench. But looking at the link above, it was helpful and looked like you heat until the paint is gone. I confirmed this morning with the prior owner that the caps had never been off in 38 years. This is a strong machine and I am determined to fix up to standard. I will report back after the weekend with my progress. Hope the picture attached.
That is a nice looking TD7E!
Just an observation but I find using a pipe wrench in this situation is counterproductive because it tends to squeeze the nut thus increasing the amount of force to undo the gland. Get or build a proper spanner wrench. Also peen and heat.
One thing about that type of cylinder, once you do get the gland nut off. The gland simply slips into the cylinder barrel and is held in by the flange on the gland nut. As stuck as that gland nut is you can bet that gland will be just as stuck, and getting it to move is the trick. Don't start wailing on it with a chisel. Instead, get the gland nut threads cleaned good to where it will screw on/off with ease. Now, screw it back on the cylinder until it bottoms out on the gland, then screw it back off maybe 1/4". Disconnect the rod from the blade and lift they cylinder so it will fully extend. Start the engine, at idle, and extend that cylinder until it bottoms out, the idea is to use the piston of the cylinder to "pop" the gland loose. The gland nut will prevent it from moving too far. Shut engine down, remove gland nut and spray plenty of lube into the gap that you've opened. You might have to repeat this process, in small increments, a couple of times until the gland can be plucked out, just don't screw the gland nut too far so not enough threads are holding everything, and it goes without saying to not stand in front of the cylinder while doing this.
Thank you Trashman, I am just down the road in Fredericksburg! DB2, I agree, I did not feel comfortable jumping up and down on the cheater for fear of egg shaping the cap. I am ordering a spanner of appropriate size as the investment is worth it with 5 cylinders to re seal. Willie59. Great suggestions. I take it the gland nut as you call it is the end cap? and the gland is the smaller piece that contains the seals slides in the tube and is held by the gland nut/end cap. Is that correct? Appreciate all the help with this.
Throw away the pipe wrench, those are for plumbers.
Correct.
With those style retainers virbation will be your friend. Never had much luck with a slow hard pull. Air hammer is usually the fastest way. You can try the hook spanners but they bend or the roll pin shears. Whereas 30 seconds with an air hammer and it's moving. You shouldn't need to worry about putting too much heat on there. Have only done a couple of those cylinders, I'm pretty sure the gland is steel or iron.
These caps almost always have set screws
Where would the set screws be located. There appears to be two holes at opposite each other that looks like a spanner wrench would fit. cleaned up and could not see a screw. The spanner I purchased is adjustable from 2 -4 3/4 inches and has one end with a hook that grabs the indentation on the rim of the cap end.
I have attached a schematic of the cylinder, can anyone see any set screws here?
If it doesn't show set screws in the picture and you can't find them, then they aren't there. One less thing to worry about. Good luck! DWF
Happy Monday! Did not get to work on the cylinder this weekend. My spanner wrench should be delivered at my gate today. I do have another question about the hydraulic fluid. The holding tank is starboard of the driver's seat, much higher than the cylinders. If disconnect the hose, will gravity drain the tank. Do I need to drain it before I remove the hoses on the cylinder? Thanks.
I always use caps and plugs for this type of work. Not only does it stop any leaking, it keeps thing clean. JIC caps should be available at any place that sells hydraulic parts. I've got boxes with different sizes. They don't wear out and it sure helps for cleanliness. FWD
No. The valve will stop flow. You need to catch what's in the cylinder, some of what's in hoses may leak.
Did the same thing on d 39. Had to put much longer cheater pipe. Forgot how much the book says on torque but its up there plus froze up from age. It will take a preaty tuff spanner to compete with that pipe wrench.
I keep a can of brake cleaner handy to hose off any dirt before caps or parts are assembled. Wiping with rag is less effective for last second cleaning.
Yes, brake cleaner is the best thing since sliced bread! I received the spanner wrench that is supposed to fit up to 4 3/5 caps. Pretty disappointed and returning it. I will get some caps and plugs, thank you. Here is a pic of the pitiful scanner i got at Grainger's.
careful with even a trace of carb or brake cleaner near a flame, real bad on health.
Yeah, phosgene gas is produced heating chlorinated brake cleaner. Phosgene gas is a military weapon. When TIG welding certain metals cleanliness is critical. along with wire brushing a good solvent is needed that dries quickly with no residue. Some use acetone with a paper towel, or cloth. The towel is sure to contain something that would contaminate, If the metal has been ground to clean it,it'll tear tiny bits from the towel, causing another problem. Non chlorinated brake cleaner is a perfect solution. In an aerosol can, no lint is left behind.
Flammable is non chlorinated, the non flammable stuff is the stuff to watch out for.
Myself, if I'm going to clean something of oil to weld it I prefer starting fluid and dry it off with an air nozzle, it cleans the oil just fine, dries totally, and doesn't create a poison gas during the welding process that could have serious effects.
Howdy Willie my old friend .....
Hello darkness my old friend.... sorry had a Pieman and Carbunkle moment there... flashback
Yes, and as a window washer it's incredible. Case backhoes are great for carrying their tails up above the cab. They are notorious for blopping grease on the back window. I always got starting fluid.
Hello all! I have not posted an update on the cylinder kit repair. I guess my yanking and banging did something as the leaking cylinder is not leaking any more. So I will use it until another leak appears and then change the seal kits. Thank you for all your input.