Hello everyone, really appreciate all the help you guys have given me. I have another issue with my td8e, it started to do something really weird. It was working just fine and after a few weeks of having it sitting I decided to do some work with it and it was very hard to start. I noticed that there was fluid leaking through the connection between the exhaust manifold and the frame the holds the turbo and also it spat fluid through the exhaust pipe. After inspecting the fluid that is been spit out I came to the conclusion that it is coolant. I took apart the turbo thinking that the coolant was some how leaking into the turbo but everything was dry in the turbo. After I leave the machine sitting for a few hours and then try to start it again, the same thing happens it spits coolant and the longer I leave it sitting without starting it the more volume of coolant comes out. When the engine is running there is no leaks but I need to add some coolant to the radiator other wise it will be dry and it will overheat. Any help and thoughts would be appreciated. Cheers!
Sounds like there could be a pitted liner allowing coolant to enter the cylinder. I’ve never been around this particular engine so I’m not familiar with the specifics.
Looks like you will be pulling the cylinder head to find your problem. Head gasket, cracked head, or bad liner are all possibilities. Really doesn’t matter at this point, you are just going to have to tear down and find out.
Yeah agree. Thank you guy, I just needed a professional opinion before I started to take things apart. I was hoping that someone would come up with an easy fix but it looks like there is not free lunch for me. Appreciate your responses. Cheers!
Here are some pictures of the coolant coming out.
Hello again, I managed to take the head off here are some pics of the gasket. What do you guys think I should do now? Can you tell if the gasket is the problem by looking at the pictures? Cheers
These are pics of the head. Really appreciate any help. Cheers!
Judging by the looks of that head gasket I’d say you found the problem. Make sure to clean up that head good and look for any tiny cracks between the valves. I would also clean up the bores and roll the engine over checking every hole just to be sure there are no other surprises.
Looks like the fire rings on #1 and #2 are broken, I’d clean those liners really good on top and make sure there’s no erosion on the surface. If there isn’t a good smooth/level surface the new fire rings won’t seat and you’ll get compression in the cooling system.
Thank you guys, really appreciated. Now I have to figure out how to get the head gasket. I am located in a remote area so I have to do some phoning around and see what town I have to drive to get the gasket. Meanwhile I will be doing the cleaning on the block and head and hopefully I won't fine any cracks. So far, I don't see any sings of cracks. Also, if you guys know of the torque and procedure of the head and valve rocket arm it would be appreciated. Cheers!
Do you guys know if the head gasket of the D239 is interchangeable with a DT239?
Here is a link to some manuals on that engine. https://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/topic/121219-d239-674-engine-manual-pdf/
Perfect! Thank you so much. Cheers!
This is were I am, I am cleaning the head and block and I am wondering if you guys can give me advise by looking at the picture. I think the head is done with cleaning but there are still some shadows of the old gasket. Should I keep scraping it until the shadows go away? I am using the sponge-like fiber scraper. Really appreciate any help, advise, etc. Cheers!
Hi everyone, I decided to get the head machined. I got the head back already and putting things back together. I am at the point of setting valve clearances. The manual says when piston 1 is TDC compression (ajust 1245) and when piston 4 TDC compression (ajust 3678) everything makes sense to me so far. Except, when I had the head off I noticed that piston 1 and piston 4 were at TDC at the same time. So how do I know which piston is on compression stroke if both piston 1 and 4 are TDC at the same time? Cheers!
Hi Acecadet, do you have a link for the transmission manual for this td8e? I managed to replaced the head gasket so. THANK YOU GUYS VERY MUCH FOR ALL THE HELP. I got the machine running very well. I replaced the trans oil filter and cleaned the suction screen filter. The clutch pressure gauge showed the needle going over the green area all the way to 3o'clock so this is why I decided to clean the screen and replace the trans filter. The machine was working fine before even when the clutch pressure gauge showed the needle going over. But now, after I replaced the trans filter and cleaned the screen suction the machine is very slow to the point that it stops. It does it in both ways back and forth. It gets better after I keep shifting back and forth and it gets warmer. Someone took the trans breather out, the one next to the trans oil stick. The breather was replaced by a long open hose, the machine was working fine even then. Any help will be very much appreciated. Cheers!
I would love to share the manual with you but it’s 400 pages. Too big of a file for here. Do you have the short transmission or the older long transmission ? I guess I would first want to check if this is a torque converter problem or a transmission slipping problem. If you remove the floor plates, you can watch the drive shaft from the torque converter to the transmission. When the machine slows or stops moving, does the drive shaft continue turning or does it stay stopped while the machine is stopped? A stalled driveshaft would mean a stalled converter, a spinning drive shaft would point to a slipping clutch pack. The stalled converter could be as simple as a lack of fluid. A bad clutch pack is going to mean pulling the transmission. I added a couple pics of the regulator valve (if you have the long trans). The main regulator valve is shown to the right on the parts breakdown. This would be controlling the main clutch pressure you are saying is showing too high. I would check the pressure with a known good gauge, if it turns out it actually is high, I would disassemble the regulator valve checking for debris and broken parts.
Thank you so much Acecadet, I will be checking the short drive shaft movement. At this point I think that the short drive shaft stops when machine is not moving and engine is low idle. I think that if I get the engine rpms from low idle to high the drive shaft moves (turns) even if machine is not moving. Can you tell me what is the function of the breather in the transmission? I took some water and soap and made some foam to check for suction leaks. I found out that the hose that is replacecing the breather is sucking air quit a lot and strong. Does the breather in this transmission sucks air or let air to come out of the transmission? Thank you again for all the help.
Breather function is to keep near ambient air pressure inside the transmission. It lets air out while things are warming up and lets air back in as it cools down. It keeps pressure from pushing oil out of the seals. Is your transmission oil level being checked while warm and running? This is the correct method on the old long transmission.
Than you again for the help. Yes, I have been checking oil level before and after it warms up. It is a bid below full line when it is cold. After it warms up it is a bid over the full line. I have never check the oil level while it is running thou. Do you mean put it in gear and check the oil while it is in gear? I guess I have to get a breather and see if that changes anything and also check and clean the pressure regulator valve. If you happen to know of a website that sells this breather . Or, if you happen to know of any other breather replacement I can install in this trans please let me know. Thank you so much acecadet.
Are you sure that was a breather that was replaced by that hose? I’m suspicious by the suction you are seeing. I’m wondering if that is a scavenge line. The breather for the transmission should be further back on the main transmission case. As for a proper breather, anything with the same pipe thread should work. It’s just a metal mushroom with some steel wool shoved in it.
I have the service manual and it shows in a picture the breather were the hose is installed. -So the breather is not a check valve? -In your opinion is it normal that the hose is sucking air? -Do you think that an open hose would do the same job as the breather?
Open hose would do the same job but let more dirt in. I really think you need to check the fluid level with the engine running. My machine would show a little high when shut off but required 2 gallons or more to get back on the stick when running.
Ok, I will do that. I have to wait about 2 weeks to be able to access my machine again. I will check oil when running and check + clean the pressure regulator valve. Thanks so much for your help Acecadet. Cheers!
Last quick question Acecadet, Are you supposed to drive this td8e at the very full top throttle or one click below the top full throttle? The service manual shows an arrow to indicate the high idle to drive the machine but the arrow points either to the very top or the tooth below the very top. It is not clear to me. I ask this because when I use the very top full throttle the machine works much much better but I am not sure if it is safe to do so. Thanks again Acecadet. Cheers!
It's perfectly fine to run the machine at full throttle. That's where it makes the most pushing power.
Very good to know! Thank you Acecadet for the help. Cheers!