Hi Everyone: I haven't been posting for some time. I have a problem with my 2003 Terex 860 backhoe. I only have 335 hours on it. In the fall (November) the tractor started just quitting on me. Run a little and stop, run a little and stop. Well it was cold so I said to myself, ah I gotta change the fuel filter, I'll wait till spring. Well last week I changed the fuel filter and it continued to run and stop, run and stop. So I put additive in the tank to see if any moisture was in the fuel. I notice no water while changing the filter. Run and stop, run and stop. I also could hear a small knocking in the engine. Then I checked the Primary Air filter. It was somewhat dirty. Took the shop-van and sucked it clean. Took it to my brothers for a job and also compare it to a new air filter, yup it was dirty, but not that dirty and changed it. It's been running now for 4 hours, but It seems not to have the power it had. I wonder if the turbocharge is working, I don't hear any spooling noise, I'm not sure but I don't remember hearing any spooling noise since I have owned it. I could alway hear the turbo spinning when I shut down my 92 ** Backhoe. On my way to my brothers, there is a big hill and it just didn't seem to have the power, even in first, I didn't think I was gonna make the a large hill on the way back. When I rev the engine, I can only get 2200 RPM, this normal? red line is 2300. I had a problem getting up a hill coming back. I drove up this hill many times with no problems before. I think I got a problem, any help will be appreciated. Thank you, DoubleNickel Oh, the knocking seem to go away. Hmm
Not familiar with that engine in particular but 2 things I would look into. Have you ever run it out of fuel? If you get air in the lines it can cause problem quite awhile later. Also, on my truck the is an exhaust back pressure valve that closes to help the engine heat up quicker. That could be stuck or broken causing problems. On my truck it is right under the turbo.
You should be able to take the piping off of the turbo inlet and see if it's working with the engine running, just be very careful not to let anything near the inlet when it's running. Does the turbo have a wastegate valve? I still haven't figured out how the "run a little and stop" problem got solved? :beatsme
That seems to be risky with little reward. If it spins freely with your finger it will definitely spin with the engine running whether it is really creating boost or not. What about putting a boost gauge on it? That should be relatively cheap and could be useful for the future.
Unless there's something wrong with the exhaust turbine side. I've seen stranger things happen. If it spins with your fingers, it "should" turn running. I just like to see it for sure. It's really not that hard or risky to do this, just wanted to point out to DoubleNickle to insure the area is tidy.
I am just used to my luck, I would check all over and it would still find some label or rag to suck in there.
Reno, now that's a funny mental picture! You mean, like a rag that was 5 miles across town that happened to be picked up by the wind and carried to you and while you were standing there watching the turbo the rag zero'd in on your turbo like it was guided by a lazer??? :Banghead :lmao :drinkup
Sure wouldn't be the first time. Too many times just as my brain was saying make sure no ... DOH!!!!! it happens.
Run and stall, run and stall, got resolved when I cleaned the secondary air filter, seeing that, I installed a new filter. It stays running now What symtoms would show up if the turbo was not operating right? Would it run at all? It just doesn't feel like the turbo kicks in or power kicks in. It will go full throttle to 2200 rpms. I don't know how high rpms can go on a tractor like this. Can it run without the turbo working, I guess that's my main question? Thanks for the responces. Keep them coming. I just don't want to damage the engine if thats possible in this case.:usa DoubleNickel PS: Could be just in my psyche to, but I don't think so.:beatsme
Yes, the engine would still run if turbo was not working, it would just have less horsepower between, say, 1,600 to 2,200 rpm. It has no effect on engine "going" to full throttle, just how much horsepower is there at full throttle. 2,200 rpm is about normal max goverened rpm on a diesel. What kind of engine does the machine have?
HAve you checked for exhaust obstructions? Besides a back pressure valve you could have a crushed pipe or baffle plugging a muffler.
ATCOEQUIP: Perkins 1004-40T, Displacenment 3.99 litres, cylinders 4, bore stroke 100x127, Fuel injection Fastran direct, compression 17.25:1, sae J 1394 horsepower 71.5kW (96hp) @ 2200 rpm, iso 9249 horsepower 66.5 kW (hp) @2200rpm, iso 9249 maxium torque 371 Nm @ 1400 rpm, Air filter Dry type-Two stage- Restriction indicator. Restriction indicator did not come, hmm Thank you,:notworthy DoubleNickel
Yeah, we have a lot of ground to cover here RenoF250. I still don't have enough info to work with. If the air filters were clogged up, there would be low power and should have been black smoke because of a rich fuel/air mixture, not enough oxygen to burn the fuel put out by the injection system. Is the fuel system working properly? Is their a wastegate valve that's stuck open? Does the injection pump have a turbo boost line that goes from the intake manifold to the injection pump? I think the first thing we need to do is check that the turbo is producing pressure. The ideal way is with a boost gauge and compare to the engine specs. If that's not available, you should be able to remove piping coming out of turbo, rev engine up, and see if it's putting out good air pressure. This is a little safer method than removing turbo intake piping with engine running.
I had a feeling the Terex used Perkins engines. I would be surprised if the turbo was bad on a machine with just 300 something hours on it, but I am concerned about severely clogged air filters and how much dust got through them. I'm not certain about your Perkins, but most I have worked on have a strainer screen inside the fuel lift pump. Take a look at you lift pump and see if it has what looks like a cover on top of it with a screw in the center. If so, remove the screw and pull off the cover and you'll find a strainer screen in there that might be clogged.
A good mechanic isn't expensive, he's priceless! Right on there bro. You just may be right with the strainer. I did not take that apart and clean. It says to do that when replacing the filter. When priming, I remember I could feel it pump some fuel and then felt like nothing. You are smart! Thats the first place to start. I will clean it tomarrow. I bet your right!! Sincerely, DoubleNickel PS: Then I will take it to an even bigger hill down the road. I bet yo right, yuppers. Well maybe.
Now let's not go countin' our yard trotters 'till they hatch. I "hope" I'm right and it fixes your problem, then I'll be happy as a hardwood tree.
Oh, just my luck, the fuel lift pump is a sealed unit. No screw on top of the dome and the 5 screws that hold the dome on are rivited The owners and parts manual show the opposite. It show it comes apart. I forgot to tell you that a lot of pressure builds up in the fuel tank, like I mean alot. You run it for an hour and unscrew the fuel cap, it will actually pop off. I told my brother, that can't be normal (but he never saw the pressure), but he says it's normal to have pressure in the tank, but that much? It does have a breather hole on top of the fuel cap. You can hear it hissing out when not running. Hmm, maybe the pressure is not releasing fast enough? Now, why would they make it a sealed unit. It shows its got a screen in it. Do I have to buy a whole unit? That don't make sense. I am trying to find a filter after the fuel tank, but I don't believe there is one. I believe the fuel goes through the fuel lift pump first, then the water seperator and the filter to the pump. I guess. Just my luck on this lift pump, all happy to do the job, pop the hood and see that I could take the pump off and drill the rivets, look for the screen and tap the holes for screws. It does have the gasket between the dome and the base. Somethings in there. ah, just my luck:duh DoubleNickel
ah, I better go back to bed. There's no rivets. There's 5 screws that screw up from the bottom. 4 bolts hold it on with a input and output line. It's a (ULPK0034) Perkins Lift Pump--That's the # in my parts manual--googled it and it came right up. I guess I take it off, as you can't get to the screws from underneath, well I better go out and make sure about dat. I get out of bed again first:sleeping DoubleNickel
:sleepingWell, back to bed again. Crawled under, looked up. There rivets peened underneath. Felt like screws from the top. I bet there is a screen in there:dizzy? http://www.swdieselinc.com/ULPK0034_Perkins_Lift_Pump_p/ulpk0034.htm
If the lift pump is riveted together, it's unlikely there's a screen in there. I'm puzzled over the fuel tank pressure though. If it's building enough pressure to pop the cap when your loosening it, that seems odd to me. :beatsme Have you tried running the machine with the fuel cap loose and see how it acts?
OK: I'm going out to start it and let it run for 15 minutes to see if it builds pressure. Might be just the fuel sloshing around in there making pressure. If no pressure, I'll drive it around and slosh the fuel and then take the cap off to see if there is pressure. I talked to the dealer mechanic today. He says he doesn't think there is a screen in there also. He said that would make no sense, but he never physically took one apart, so he wasn't sure. He scratched his head about the tank pressure. Never heard of that much pressure in a tank. I go out to start it now, first open and replace the cap. I Report back soon.
The fitting on the right side of the pump in your link could have a screen in it, have you looked in there? Quadrajet carbs had a similar fitting with screen.
Yeah, I've seen banjo bolt fittings have a plastic screen inside the bolt. Hitachi uses on the EX100-2 and the EX120-2 excavators, and I've seen them on some Cat engines. I'm not sure about this engine.
OK: Tractor ran for 20 minutes standing still. No pressure in tank. Drove down back in da woods (saw no bears) bounced it about a bit. Drove it out on the road fast. Was running good, with all my lights on the exhaust looked normal black when gunning it. Then after a bit, it seemed to lose some power, about 20 minutes of raming around. Came back. Stopped, shut everything down, as i was approching the fuel cap I could hear it really pushing out the pressure. Undid the cap and pow. There is a lot of pressure. WOW Just doesn't seem normal. Never seen that much pressure in any fuel tank. hmm DoubleNickel
Man, there's something not right with this. You've got something I've never experienced before, this is going to be fun to figure this out! Let's noodle this for a moment. You have a tank full of fuel. Imagine the tank has no vent, cap or otherwise. You run the engine, which uses up fuel in the tank. If fuel is "going down" in tank from useage, it has to be replaced by air by venting, otherwise the tank would collapse. Right? Where the hell is pressure coming from? It would seem if "suction side" of fuel were restricted that it couldn't possibly pressurize the tank via fuel return line, i.e., how can the fuel return add more "volume" of anything to tank more than it is being "supplied" by fuel supply system? Am I missing something here???
Ok, the tank is half full. What I should do next is put the cap on loosly so the pressure can get out. I can't run it now as the neighbors will be up in the air, but that will be a good look for tomarrow. Maybe the power won't drop when there's no pressure in the tank. Remember there was no pressure after idling for 25 minutes. Got me!!
Hey, go for it! I've thought about running it with the cap loose and see if it fixes the engine stalling problem, that would be great. Run the machine with the cap tight until it begins to stall. Right then, relieve the pressure on the tank and leave the cap loose. Run the machine and see if there is an immediate change. Problem is, though, if this fixes the engine stall problem we still don't know what's causing the problem! :Banghead But it's still good info to know and maybe it will lead us to the gremlin here.
Yup, good idea, I'll run it down the road a mile and a half, then I hit the big hill. I start going up the hill and when I feel the machine lose power, I'll jump out (stop first), undo the cap, get the pow, as it will be there. Then gun it up the hill to see if the power came back. Sounds like a plan:thumbsup How in the world can sloshing create pressure, can't be, heat will give you some pressure from expansion but not like this. Pressure coming from some where:idontgetit
Now there's the quote of the day!
ATCOEQUIP: The stalling stopped when I cleaned the filter, then replaced it with a new one. Now I just lose power after awhile and have this tank pressure problem. This is, strange:dizzy But we get to da bottom of it, maybe!!
Like I said; you've got a problem I haven't seen before, this is going to be a ride to figure this one out!
OK: I get up said to myself, self, well I changed the primary filter so I will check the secondary filter. Took it out and put up to the light and compared it. Yup it was a little dirty, so I replaced it. Made no differance. Now for the real story. HOLY COW Huston "We Have A Problem" First I checked the tank for pressure, none. Started machine. Started driving down to the hill, felt loosing power, stopped and unscrewed the cap and pow, it was giving off gas vapors. I could see immediate engine relief, RPM's came up a little, so I screwded the cap on lightly and proceded to the hill. Got to the hill, it went up better. Turned around came back to the house and felt it loosing power. Got out, unscrewed and pow, pressure and gas vapers. It was on just a little bit. So I left it off. Started driving and finally felt I had my tractor back. The filler I can see through the window steaming fuel vapers as I am driving. Went back to the hill. Zip, right up in fourth gear. Very slow, but the RPM's stayed up. I never run it like that but wanted to see what happens. I gots the power back. But its got some major or simple problem. Somehow pressure is getting back to the tank and I really don't know how long this has been going on. I would say it started last summer sometime, no wait, I was digging 2 years ago and noticed hearing the pressure from the cap. So this has slowly been happening for some time. The fuel tank is half full. The bottom of the tank on the outside is cold, but feeling up a ways, it gets a little warmer, not much. hmm So there we have it. At least we got this far. There's gotta be a valve sticking open or closed somewhere. I am happy we have gotten to this point. I don't think I hurt the engine Hope not.
DoubleNickle, what kind of preheat system does the engine use? I don't know about your engine, but most of the Perkins I've worked on don't use glow plugs in the cylinders. Instead, they use a fuel preheater in the intake piping. It screws into the piping prior to the intake manifold, it has an electrical connection to it and a fuel line connected to it. I'm curious, see what your engine has?
Hi: I just got home. I' looking thru the parts manual. I don't have the Perkins engine shop manual, (I got two others for the trans and powershuttle) so maybe I will take some pictures of what your talking about and post them. What are you thinking about the glow plugs verses the fuel preheater. I think the turbo is working as when I shut it down, I can here it spinning a little. Whats your bottom thoughts? This thing gots any hope?
It's not what I'm thinking as much as it's this little voice in my head that talks to me... It's just a theory at the moment, but it all depends on if you have the intake preheater with a fuel line connected to it and not glow plugs in cylinders. It's one of those "never seen it before" theories...but I've got a lifetime of "never seen that before!" experiences. It may turn out to be nothing, but, then again...
Hmm, I gots voices in my head to!!!!!LOL, LOL:falldownlaugh
John Deere has a problem with fuel pumps on their 6410 series tracots, where the diapram in the injection pump would fail and pressurize the fuel tank. I mean to the extent you could run it down the road for a period of 15 minutes and watch the plastic tank expand. The tractors did it with very low hours. Could it just be a faulty fuel cap breather not working?:beatsme
By the way DoubleNickel do you patrol around Fort Covington? My home town.
Yeah, but most of the time that "little voice" is a devil on my shoulder. It will wait 'till I get a hyd cylinder completely re-assembled...THEN it will say "hey dummy, you forgot to tighten the nut that holds the piston on the rod!" :Banghead
No, I'm an RN, I help fix busted people. I'm just proud to be an American. :bouncegri
My niece is an RN at CVPH.
ok i had the same problem with a cummins in a ottawa yard jockey every time it was fuel up above half a tank it would seep fuel out of tank i finally saw after serviceing it there was no oil cap there just a quick fix screw in plug you know the unscrew old freeze plug types ....these older engines need to breathe aka oil cap had a vent hole.. the fuel return is though the head rail and back to tank ...new diesels have a blow pipe turned down to oil pan
yup, been there. I'm at Saratoga Hospital, Saratoga Springs, NY :slomo
goodnight Chet--goodnight David
OK: This engine has a thermostart at the bottom end of the right side of the intake manifold (on the right side when in the seat) to heat the fuel. The injector pump is on the left side of the engine when sitting in the seat with 4 injectors pipes coming out. I talked to the dealer mechanic and he only ran into a problem like this on a diesel truck which presserized that trucks tank. I didn't have much time to talk so I didn't get any answers. Something about the exhaust stroke, I really couldn't get it. He really didn't have an answer. Where are the injectors that go to the cylinders? Dumb question, but this is the first for me. There is only to pipes that go to the intake manifold. The thermostart on the bottom end and another pipe just above it. I'm out there in the dark now. Didn't have time to look during the day. I'm gonna order a Perkins Shop Manual tomarrow. I just got the Engine serial number. DoubleNickel
I've got to go down the street to p-u my grandaughter, I'll get back to you in a couple of minutes.
Yup, I hear ya, I just put my 2 girls to bed, 3 step-kids are out of the nest.:scool
The only dumb question is a question you don't ask. It's fairly obvious your not well knowledged with engines, but that's OK, hang around and we'll teach an RN a little something about machines. When you said you have a "thermostart", that answered my question. Here's what I want you to do; disconnect the fuel line connection and the electrical connection to the thermostart on the intake. Now you have to figure out a way to plug or cap that fuel line you disconnected because it could leak fuel while your running the engine, you have to do this. Once you've done this, run the machine and see if it makes a change.
OK: Will do tomarrow. Plug the manifold and cap the line and disconnect the thermostat? I'll find the parts somewhere. I look at it this way. $200 for a manual, is money in the bank if we can fix it ourselves The machanic doesn't think I harmed the engine, since I got my power back with the cap off and since it's been this way for a year or so. That's prob 100 hours or so ago. I really don't know when it started. That was a relief to hear. RN means Really Nuts:lmao
What I mean is, by getting the manual is like money in the bank as I will not have to pay for a service guy and it will also guide me thru other problems if they arise. Maybe.
Forgot To Tell You Last summer while I was on vacation. Someone jumped in the tractor and leaving the key on the floor, it was in the ignition and on for who knows. Could have been a week. I have double batterys and they were almost dead. Oboy, forgots to tell ya:crying It wasn't driven though.
Wild shot in the dark here. Could you have an injector hanging up and letting compression back to the tank through a return line? Have you ever pulled the injectors?
ATCOEQUIP: This is what the the dealer mechanic was talking about. Thanks, BillOnTheHill:notworthy Nope, never touched them yet. Diesel is new to me, but I am learning more as we talk about this problem. I'm getting a little more familiar with the engine. (where things are) I didn't get to the thermostart today as it was pouring out:crying Tomarrow the weather will be better
I appears you may be on the same trail I am bill onthehill. I've never seen this on a machine before, but I've tried to figure out what would pressurize the tank as quickly as doublenickle describes. I can only come up with two logical possiblities; 1) compression from cylinders through a faulty injector, or 2) thermostart malfunction. I have considered an injector, but it seems if compression went "back through" an injector, it would at least interupt that injector temporarily, creating a miss. He hasn't complained of missing or rough running engine, just loss of power. Also, in one post he said he let it run at idle for 20 minutes, no problem, no pressure. But when he hit the road, meaning running/load rpm, here came the pressure. It seems, again, a faulty injector would fail at all rpm's, but I can't say that for sure. But there's one instance when there is no pressure at low rpm, and pressure at high rpm; turbo boost on the intake manifold. And there's one component in the intake manifold that's connected to the fuel system as well; the Perkins thermostart. I have never seen one do this before, but it's the most logical cause of the problem I have come up with to this point. If it's not the culprit...I'm going to have to go back to head scratchin' again.
OK: Your standing on the right side of the tractor looking at the intake manifold. On the right end of the manifold is a bottom Line (thermostart) which goes to the top of the injector pump, which says AIR IN. Just above the thermostart is the other fuel line which goes to the side of fuel filter. (so this line coming from the filter has a arrow which indicates the fuel is going to the intake manifold, above the thermostart line) Yup, engine never skips a beat, only a knocking sound under load when the tank is pressurized, like pre-ignition. No knocking when cap is off.
I haven't worked on your particular Perkins engine, so I'm not up to speed on all it's components. The Thermostart will have a fuel line connection and an electrical connection to it, it will look like this: I'm thinking of disconnecting the fuel line and electrical connection to it, somehow "cap/plug" the fuel line that was connected to it, remove the thermostart from the intake manifold, and plug the hole left in the manifold, then see what happens. You also present another possiblity here; that other line that you mention that runs from the intake manifold to the injection pump which says "Air In". Hmm, sounds like a line that controls fuel rate of injection pump by sensing amount of turbo boost, and...another "line" that connects turbo boost pressure to fuel system. Another possiblity to look at. Let's eleminate the thermostart first, then move on if necessary.
Yup: I got what you mean. I just went back out to recheck what I said and yes, thermostart goes to the very top of the pump which indicates an arrow pointing into the pump and the word "air" in the middle of the arrow. Yup, the other line comes from the fuel filter (#4 line-arrow out, to just above the thermostart), as there are 4 lines, 2 in and 2 out, numbers 1 to 4 on the side of the fuel filter) Then on top of the fuel filter there is a "t" with 3 lines going into the top of the fuel filter. If you can understand that?
I dunno, it's too easy to muddy things up with descriptions. I can only put it as simple as I can in an attempt to avoid confusion, which I desire to avoid. The Thermostart will have a fuel line connection as well as an electric wire connected to it. If you have found a component on the intake system that has a fuel line and a wire connected to it, you've found the Thermostart.
Yes, I understand, and will remove the thermostart and cap them tomarrow. ah, try to cap them if I can find the caps and plugs. English used to be witworth measurments but I believe it's all metric now.
:my2c Ok: Here is what happened today. The farmer down by the big hill asked me why I was going up and down the hill? I told him the story and he was also interested. He said he was going to his tractor dealership (this was 2 days ago). He gots biggie tractors. He stopped this morning and told me what they thought it could be and what to do. They recommended to put a hose on the returning side to the tank and put the hose into a bucket and see how much air is returning to the bucket with the return fuel. (I just got a idea, just drain it back into the tank spout and watch the air and the fuel) They think also it's a injector hanging up and allowing backpressure to pressurize the tank. ATCOEQUIP and bill onthehill already know this, but the more feedback the better, right? ATCOEQUIP: I did not do what I was gonna do today. I used the tractor for 4 hours and man it gots digging power. I tied a rag over the fuel spout. I was running the air conditioner (fumes were getting the cab) and had to stop and open the back door window. Even at that, the cab was smelling from the fumes. At the end of the job I think I was hearing knocking again. I don't know maybe that's just in my head. My farmer friend suggested doing the return fuel test first, then suggested to put cleaner in the fuel for awhile to see if that clears it up before attempting injector problem (and which injector is it? can't get to them without taking the muffler out and a couple of other things) That was his suggestion anyways. He says he always puts the cleaner in his tractors at every fillup. ATCOEQUIP: I know what you want me to do and your thinking is first on the list, so who do I listen to (I know everybody) I don't wanna walk on toes. We're all in this together. Right? I also put my ear to the spout and could hear the fuel trickling back in.
First of all, I'd be careful about running the machine very long as it is with the problem you've described, as in, the hot vapor in the tank. Liquid diesel fuel doesn't ignite easily, but vapor is much more combustible. As for what to do first, doesn't matter to me, this is all theory at the moment since no one has come forward and said "I've seen this before...here's what you do...". You could check the fuel return hose if you want, I'm near certain the problem does come via return hose because if it was from the only other hose, the supply, then the pressure going to tank would interupt supply, engine would quit. Also, the lift pump has check valves in it. If the pressure went through these valves, I would think it would kill the lift pump. As for the injectors, if you don't have one that has a miss, it would be difficult to find the bad one. About the best you could do is test the fuel return rail from the injectors. All the injectors share a common fuel return and one of the injectors has the return to tank connected to it. You could disconnect the injector return hose, run it to a bucket, and see if the pressure is coming from the injectors that way. But you have to have the engine rev's up as you described no pressure problem at idle. I think testing the injector return line would give better info than testing the tank return hose. We still have that other hose from intake to injection pump you described, that's another line you could disconnect and plug off to check. So there's three items for you to check; the fuel return from the injector return line, the Thermostart, and the intake to injection pump line.
Well, thinking about it, whats the sense of checking the return fuel. We know without a doubt, air is coming in. So that would be a waste of time. So I am back to the thermostart. Yup, I was thinking about a big boom. hey, it could happen!!! I guess fuel cleaner wouldn't fix a problem like this. That would be to easy. Suppose capping the thermostart stops the pressure. Whats the theory or is it to much to explain.
We'll cross that bridge when we get there. Right now, I just want to find where that pressure is coming from. Have you got a parts book ordered for the machine?
I have a parts book right here. I'm waiting for the dealer to get back to me on the repair manual. hmm Maybe they have to print one up:falldownlaugh and ship it from England. We'll get it fixed. I'm in no hurry. I just take my time, it will get done.
yes I,m new to this site but ive been wrenching for 28 years and I belive you forgot think simple first I,ve been following this story from the start and I belive you found problem at start but went big.you said it was a vented fuel cap but did you check it to see if it vents ? when operator ran fuel line into tank with rag very unsafe but like I said the easy fix first ..replace fuel cap from factory I think it will fix once I replaced 2 hyd. pumps on a truck becuase vent on tank was pluged if i,m wrong sorry but it,s my thought bentwrench
any luck with this problem?
:update I did not blow up. Sorry for not posting. I have been busy. I backhoed yesterday for 3 hours with no problems. No skips, runs fine. When your digging you can feel and hear the power kick in when load is applied. No abnormal exhaust smoke, only gives off black exhaust when power kicks in. So I guess the turbo is working? I'm taking the tractor up to my brothers on early Sunday (less traffic)morning. (he got a wood shed from my neighbor--brought it back here--I gotta drive backwards for 2 miles to his house ) I want him to help me with this problem. He's a good mik-a-nic. He knows nothing about diesels also, but it's an extra hand. I called the dealer today about the shop manual rofessor, gonna take 3 weeks to get one:beatsme weird? There going by the engine serial# from Perkins and I have no price on it ATCOEQUIP: Gonna start at the thermostart, per your instructions. I have been googling (lots) about this tank pressure thingie, but can't find much about it:crying
Cool, I'm curious to find out what's causing the problem as I haven't seen this before. We'll be waiting.
Oh man: I'm talking to my brother now thru Skype on the computer. He just told me my neighbor and friend (Big Al) down the road just blew his transmission on his 4 year old big Kubota tractor. He Overfilled the Transmission by 3 Gallons:jawdrop My father from Norway was a fine Cabinetmaker. The Real McCoy, alway said: Measure twice and cut once yuppers, costing him a grand to just tear it down:crying It will be 4 grand by the time he gets it back. oh man!! I Always Ask Questions!!!! Always!!!
this fuel tank presure problem as i said before i belive easy fix....rember simple diesel reason what is return line from injector to the tank for ? it's cooling the internal parts of injectors high presure that would gaul the internal works if wasnt cooled by fuel flowing through injector after fuel passes through injector fuel temp rises and expands in tank and and with vent in cap broken or pluged this presure won't let atmospereic l fuel flowto injection pump so like i said the other day when he put rag in tank and the tractor ran fine the fuel cap probly needs replacing
Listen to what this guy has to say? hmm http://www.ehow.com/video_4467435_inspect-fuel-return-line.html
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:usa bentwrench22 Gets the "Gold Star" After watching this video ( http://www.ehow.com/video_4467435_in...turn-line.html ) and the guy said there is pressure in the return line to the tank and seeing bentwrench22 post again, I said hey:idea I'm going out and get the cap and take it apart. Well, under the seal was an oversized o'ring plugging the vent (it vented a little, but not much). I cleaned the crud from where the o'ring was with a dental pick and left the o'ring out. Put it back together and Walla, easy air flow in and out. Slapped it back on the tank and no more pressure buildup. Runs GREAT!!!! Trucked down the road at full throttle, got out (I stopped first) and no pressure build up. WOW, thanks bentwench22, I know it's been this way for at least 2 years, maybe longer. and ATCOEQUIP: your the greatest, we got it fixed!! We are all a team:beerchug We work together!!!
Excellent! There's enough people here that someone will figure out what the problem is. :woohoo
I had that problem on a lawn mower awhile back. It would run and then die. I wasted my time checking a bunch of stuff only to find the cap was bad.
Well, for right now, it seems to be OK, but I am going to keep a close eye on it. It could be a quick fix to a bigger problem.:exactly
PeeWee and BigBoy PeeWee has a fever and temperature and doesn't wanna mow the lawn:falldownlaugh BigBoy runs good, but seems to smell :throwupfrom fumes. Hmm
Hmm, I'm thinking...that's not normal. Did you ever get that e-mail I sent you D-Nickel?
Never got it:beatsme Don't know why. You got mine ok, right?
Yeah, I got your e-mail, and I hit "Reply" to go back to ya'! Never had anything like this happen before. :beatsme
HI read that you still have some problem's with youre tractor I have worked on a large JD tractor with a fuel leak was hard to find where tractor could be split was regular fuel line they would run the steel line from pump to through sheet metal and fuel line under floor boards maybe 6 inch piece for return or feed line ,,,so with the high presure you been running with bad fuel cap youre fuel lines were the weakest link and with the enclosed cab any fumes are hard to get rid of,,,hope this helps
I saw where you have been haveing trouble with a terex I also need some help. I am a new member and could not start a new thread yet. Anyway our terex 870 frontend loader backhoe shut off and now wont start we have done the simple stuff ie change filters clean the strainer over fuel pump bleed lines. still nothing anybody have any ideas? Tony
Welcome to the forum tony terex. :usa Still a few more basic things. Do you have good fuel flow from the tank? I assume so because you said you bled lines. Does lift pump move fuel properly? And you could have a problem with the shutoff solenoid, either not getting power/ground or faulty solenoid.
Fantastic stuff guys, very enjoyable.
I can hear the lift pump working and it does have good flow. I do not know where the shutoff selinoind is? it is a perkins engine, about where might I look? One guy I live close to thinks the rings are bad and the moter needs rebuilding, The tractor is a 2004 with 2400 hours and did not have any starting problems before ecept of course the simple things like weak battery. I dont feel it is this I always thought that was a progressive issue I did find out though on the #1 and last injector is 220 compresion where the middle ones are 350. Thank You for the help Tony
The shutoff solenoid is located on the injection pump, it will have 1 wire (voltage) or 2 wires (voltage and ground) going to it. Check to make sure you have power going to it, and ground if it's 2 wires. If you do, remove the wiring connections and the solenoid cartridge can be removed, but do it carefully, on most of these solenoids the plunger and spring can fall out. Make sure the plunger moves freely against the return spring. You can even put some jumper wires on it and see if it retracts the plunger. If it doesn't, it's faulty.
I've never worked on a terx tractor but does this tractor have a computor in its works one thing I know about newer equipment is a computor will save it self before leting it it run with low voltage ,,,when I check out newer equip. for non start I load check all batterys indivigualy for weakness and will fix a lot of problems
Thank You for the info we did not even go to the shop oday but that gives us 2 things to check. The selinoid and the batteries we are having to keep the battery charger on it while we was bleeding lines etc.
make sure you pull the batteries out of the machine and clean up all the terminals. Charge them up while out of machine and load test them individually. Follow the grounds from the batteries and clean the end where it bolts to the tractor. Lots of headaches are eliminated by having a good electric circuit and ground.
Hi everyone I finally checked batteries and the shut off selinoid on my terex with the perkins moter, the plunger does move and I am getting fuel to the injectors from their I have not traced it any further the batteries test fine. I have again checked the fuses they are not blown. This is really puzzling me since it just shut itself off during a bit of strain and now it wont start back. thank you for any ideas tony terex
When you say you have fuel to the injectors is it pushing a good stream from each one as you bleed it? You should be able to get it to hit on just 1 or 2 as you are bleeding them. Do you have a preheater system on this machine? I would try spraying a LITTLE bit of ether in the air intake. Do not run preheaters if you try ether. If it tries to run on ether I would question fuel quality or possible water. Have you pulled any injectors to inspect them?
Am I missing something here?
It sounds to me like you have a fuel problem. You are either not getting enough fuel pressure from the transfer pump or you have air in the fuel system. Try running a fuel line from a bucket of diesel to the transfer pump and see what happens. If it will run like that you are getting air from somewhere. Those tiny little air leaks can cause all kinds of problems.
Problem figured out! I had changed all air filters, of course a couple weeks knowing a dirty air filter could be the problem well it really was not bad. had a guy that does work on tractors look at it he was stumped kept saying it must be the moter. we was going to replace the shut off selinoid just to make sure it was not that, however the plunger was working. he finally said before we do that let me take somthing off the muffeler and also check the turbocharger as soon as he did it started right up no problem. Tony
So what did he take off the muffler? did it have a gate valve to the turbo?
Well, DoubleNickel is back. Sorry Paul, it's been a long year. Tractor didn't blow up and I'm still alive.:beerchug
LoL, well, good to hear that. :drinkup Did you ever get your glitch figured out?
Well, I guess so as it's been running fine since I got the cap to breath. I prob put 25 hours on it since then. But the other today, as I was helping my neighbor and with his septic system, I gots home and turned the key off and it just kept running, but trying to shut down. I turned it back on, ran in and googled up something about a injector selenoid. Called the dealer. Talked to the mechanic and got it shut down by putting some stress on the riggers. Found the valve switch on top of the injector pump. I have to clean the area and remove the valve, he says something is holding up the spring and not shuting down. so that's a job I gotta do this week, I guess. I ran it a little today and it did the same thing. I gotta be real careful about unscrewing the valve, right? I am sorry about not getting back to you. You prob thought I blew up with the tractor, but everything is fine. I just had other things to get done (big things):Banghead
Sounds like your describing a faulty shut down solenoid on the CAV injection pump. The ones I've replaced have been no problem to do. Haven't worked on your particular model Perkins, but I can't imagine there would be any difficulty replacing that solenoid. Kinda unique though, what your describing, the solenoid not shutting the engine down. Typically, when a shut down solenoid on a Perkins goes bad, they burn out and won't let the engine run. Haven't see that situation where the solenoid craps out and lets the engine run and not shut off. Hmmm, unusual.
Hi DoubleNickel Do you have a copy of the parts book? I have the same machine, but can't find any manuals. I'll appreciate a PDF copy if you can help me!
HI willy 59: I'm back, remember me? I woke from the dead, same problem, never fixed it, but it's gotta be fixed. You willing to still help me? The Turbo is still not kicking in, and pressure is still building up in the fuel tank. Have to drive it with a lose fuel cap, so it won't stall. 600 hours now. Sincerely, John Muller New York, 12833
I doubt anybody remembers this thread exactly from seven years ago. If you update what the machine is doing, it would be a lot easier to understand than trying to read five pages of not relevant posts. You can copy and paste easily enough from other tabs, it's not like you have to type it all from scratch if you have clutzy fingers.